The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Recumbent Bicycling

Cruisin’ the streets

Wouxun PTT Voltage Limit
TinyTrak3+ D6 – SMD Schottky diode

It seems that Wouxun KG-UV3D HTs require nearly 0 V to activate the PTT input, which I discovered after the radio on Mary’s bike began acting intermittently. The TinyTrak3+ would transmit correctly, but the PTT button on the handlebar began to not work at all / work intermittently / work perfectly. The switch and cable were OK, pushing the button produced nearly 0 Ω at the 3.5 mm plug, the connections seemed solid, but the radio didn’t transmit reliably.

I finally got the thing to fail on the bench, which led to the discovery that:
- Shorting the PTT input to the GPS+voice adapter PCB to ground didn’t make the radio transmit and
- Data bursts from the TinyTrack3 worked perfectly
Gotcha!

TT3 PTT In-Out

The TT3+ pulls its PTT OUT pin down from +5 V using a 2N2222A NPN transistor (off to the right in the schematic snippet), but, for reasons having to do with ESD, the input from the PTT switch on the handlebars goes through a 100 Ω series resistor, then passes to the TT3 board through PTT IN to D6 before joining the TT3 transistor collector. The low-active diode-ORed signal heads off through PTT OUT to a 10 Ω series resistor, thence to the KG-UV3D PTT input. D6 is an ordinary 1N4148, with the net result that the PTT input voltage at the radio dropped to 630 mV with the PTT button pressed.

Not finding anything else wrong, I replaced D6 with a BAT54 Schottky diode that pulled the PTT voltage down to 300 mV and the radio worked fine.

Of course, a BAT54 is a surface-mount diode, so I clipped off the unused no-connect lead (it’s the only way to be sure it doesn’t do anything) and tacked it down slaunchwise between the PCB thru-hole pads. If I had a BAT54C with common cathodes, I could replace both D5 and D6 in one shot, but D5 just pulls down a PIC input that has an ordinary logic-level threshold voltage.

I don’t know why the KG-UV3D PTT is so fussy, although it may really be a current-driven signal that requires more current than can flow through the 110 Ω + diode forward drop in series with the PTT button. Wouxun presents no specifications that I can find.

The identical circuitry on my bike works fine with the stock D6 diode and a presumably identical KG-UV3D. I should replace that diode before it gives me any trouble, but I’ll wait until I must take the box apart for some other reason.
2012-10-05
Tour Easy + BOB YAK Trailer = Cargo Hauling

Friends of ours planted a few dozen Liriope spicata as a border around their nicely trimmed flower garden. This did not work out well, as the stuff spreads like a weed and duplicated beyond their wildest imagination. However, this part of the description caught our attention:

No serious diseases or pests occur for creeping lilyturf. […] Lilyturf is reported to have little wildlife value.

Translation: nothing kills the stuff and deer don’t eat it. Sounds like exactly what we need for the section of the front yard that slopes down to the road, where mowing poses a threat to life & limb.

We said we’d take it, they dug it out and bagged it, I hitched up the bike trailer, and we paid them a visit:

YAK Bike Trailer – 55 lb of grass

They’re a few miles off the south end of the Dutchess Rail Trail, which is (by definition) pretty much dead flat and made the trip a lot easier: that load of grass added up to 55 pounds! They dropped off a few bags on their next trip past our house, which tells you how much they wanted to get rid of it.

I wielded the post-hole digger to prepare about 100 sites, shook the dirt off the existing grass roots to backfill the holes, we divided the new clumps by chopping them with a shovel, and a day later we had everything installed and watered down:

Liriope spicata planting

I’m liking it already…

2012-09-29
Cutting Music Wire

It should go without saying, but you do not cut music wire with diagonal cutters intended for electrical wire or the low-carbon steel shears built into wire strippers. I use a bicycle cable cutter that easily slices through the hard wire used in brake cables and their housing:

Bicycle cable cutter

I’ve owned this one forever, but those cutters from Park should work just as well; the odd protrusions behind the pivot crimp aluminum caps on stranded cable. I also have diagonal cutters with hardened jaws, but they’re too bulky for fine work and tend to fire the stub ends across the Basement Laboratory.

Every now and again I touch up the jaws with a diamond file to get rid of small dings; despite being hardened, those fine points seem particularly prone to burrs.

When you see an ordinary wire cutter with matching half-moons in each blade, you know what happened…

2012-09-26
Nike Cycling Shoe Latches: Resprung

The Nike cycling shoes I bought some years ago (at a steep discount when they got out of the cycling shoe biz) close with a ratcheting plastic strap rather than laces, so I bought a spare set of straps: the plastic part always breaks first. As it turned out, a coil spring inside each latch failed and the stub end (on the right side here) gradually worked its way between the latch tab and the frame:

Cycling shoe latch – broken spring

Eventually this got to the point where the latches jammed and I had to do something. The first step was to drill out the rivet holding the spring and tab in place:

Drilling latch rivet – magnetized bit

You’ll note the rich collection of swarf clinging to the drill bit, which indicates this one hasn’t been used since a lightning strike magnetized all the steel in the house. A pass through that demagnetizer shook off the swarf and prepared the bit for the next time.

Releasing all the parts shows the problem:

Nike cycling shoe latch – broken spring

The OEM springs used 24 mil spring wire that, surprisingly, matched a box of music wire in the Basement Laboratory Warehouse Wing. The spring coils have 5 turns that just clear the 3 mm rivet that I recycled as a mandrel; I think a 2.5 mm pin would produce a better fit. Not being a fan of rivets, I replaced them with 4-40 machine screws, even though the threads probably won’t do the aluminum frame any good at all.

A protracted bending and wrapping session produced a reasonable approximation of the OEM spring:

Latch spring – formed

It’s worth noting that each of those coils uses up about 55 mm of wire: 5 × 3.5 mm × π. Cut an excessively long piece from the music wire coil!

Trimming and shaping the ends to fit through the notches and around the outside of the frame shows that my wire-bending skills need considerably more practice. This spring (the second one I made) also shows that my beginner’s luck with the first coils wore off all too quickly:

OEM springs with homebrew replacement

But both springs fit and work fine, so I’ll call it done for now:

Repaired latch – nut side

Will a replacement spring break before the plastic strap?

Obviously, I need a CNC spring bender…

2012-09-24
Dead-on-arrival Lithium Cell

DOA Energizer CR2032 cell

The display on Mary’s Cateye Astrale cyclocomputer (remember cyclocomputers?) faded to gray, which meant a new CR2032 lithium cell was in order. I grabbed one from the heap, popped out the old cell, inserted the new cell, and … the display stayed blank.

Quick like a bunny, I reinserted the old cell to save the odometer (15524 miles) and wheel circumference (1475 mm) data; the display returned to dim gray.

The “new” cell, which came from an unopened pack, read 0.45 V with no load…

The cell didn’t have a date code, but the package sports a cryptic MU that might encode the date of manufacture or the date of packaging or the copyright date or something; the various search results aren’t forthcoming and the Energizer site gives no explanation.

I’m pretty sure I haven’t owned that package for more than a few years and it’s been in a shirtsleeve environment (plus the occasional hot van) ever since.

Another Energizer cell from a more recent lot, bearing CA on the package and YA on the cell, worked fine.

Being that sort of bear, I wrote the date and mileage on the previous cell (a Newsun, whoever they are, with a 3Y code), because the last time around the odometer value didn’t survive the cell change. The current total works out to 277 miles/month = 3300 miles/year, including winter downtime, which is fine with us; we mostly ride the bikes around town on errands and take the occasional tour.

2012-09-21
Wouxun KG-UV3D: Improved Knob Index

After Raj thoroughly shamed me for slobbering white glop on the KG-UV3D’s volume / power knob, I hereby repent…

Clamp a cutoff chunk of 3/16 =0.1875 inch diameter brass tubing in the lathe and file down one side to put the flat 0.150 inch from the far side, so that the knob is a tight slip fit. If you happen to have some solid rod, that would work just as well. In this case, the file pushed the paper-thin brass remnant into the tubing and I didn’t bother to clean it out:

KG-UV3D knob with fixture

Clean the white glop off the knob, jam the knob on the fixture, clamp the fixture in the Sherline’s vise, use laser targeting to center the spindle on the notch adjacent to the minuscule pip on the knob:

Laser aligning to knob feature

Drill a 2 mm recess that en passant obliterates the pip:

Drilling index recess

Fill it with some light gray paint that just happens to be on the shelf:

Knob with filled index mark

And, by gosh, it really does dress up the radio! [grin]

Wouxun KG-UV3D with improved knob

While I had the Sherline set up, I did the knob for the other radio, too.

Thanks, Raj… I needed that!

2012-09-12
KG-UV3D GPS+Voice Interface: APRS Bicycle Mobile

Wouxun KG-UV3D with GPS-audio interface

Both of the GPS+voice interfaces for the Wouxun KG-UV3D radios have been working fine for a while, so I should show the whole installation in all its gory detail.

If you haven’t been following the story, the Big Idea boils down to an amateur radio HT wearing a backpack that replaces its battery, combines the audio output of a Byonics TinyTrak3+ GPS encoder with our voice audio for transmission, and routes received audio to an earbud. Setting the radios to the APRS standard frequency (144.39 MHz) routes our GPS position points to the global packet database and, with 100 Hz tone squelch, we can use the radios as tactical intercoms without listening to ~~all~~ much of the data traffic.

The local APRS network wizards approved our use of voice on the data channel, seeing as how we’re transmitting brief voice messages using low power through bad antennas from generally terrible locations. This wouldn’t work well in a dense urban environment with more APRS traffic; you’d need one of the newfangled radios that can switch frequencies for packet and voice transmissions.

So, with that in mind, making it work required a lot of parts…

Tour Easy – KG-UV3D GPS interface

A water bottle holder attaches to the seat base rail with a machined circumferential clamp. Inside the holder, a bike seat wedge pack contains the radio with its GPS+voice interface box and provides a bit of cushioning; a chunk of closed-cell foam on the bottom mostly makes me feel good.

The flat 5 A·h Li-ion battery pack on the rack provides power for the radio; it’s intended for a DVD player and has a 9 V output that’s a trifle hot for the Wouxun radios. Some Genuine Velcro self-adhesive strips hold the packs to the racks and have survived surprisingly well.

Just out of the picture to the left of the battery pack sits a Byonics GPS2 receiver puck atop a fender washer glued to the rack, with a black serial cable passing across the rack and down to the radio bag.

A dual-band mobile antenna screws into the homebrew mount attached to the upper seat rail with another circumferential clamp. It’s on the left side of the rail, just barely out of the way of our helmets, and, yes, the radiating section of the antenna sits too close to our heads. The overly long coax cable has its excess coiled and strapped to the front of the rack; I pretend that’s an inductor to choke RF off the shield braid. The cable terminates in a PL-259 UHF plug, with an adapter to the radio’s reverse-polarity SMA socket.

The push-to-talk button on the left handgrip isn’t quite visible in the picture. That cable runs down the handlebar, along the upper frame tube, under the seat, and emerges just in front of the radio bag, where it terminates in a 3.5 mm audio plug.

The white USB cable from the helmet carries the boom mic and earbud audio over the top of the seat, knots around the top frame bar, and continues down to the radio. USB cables aren’t intended for this service and fail every few years, but they’re cheap and work well enough. The USB connector separates easily, which prevents us from being firmly secured to a dropped bike during a crash. I’d like much more supple cables, a trait that’s simply not in the USB cable repertoire. This is not a digital USB connection: I’m just using a cheap & readily available cable.

All cables converge on the bag holding the radio:

Tour Easy – KG-UV3D + GPS interface – detail

Now you can see why I put that dab of white on the top of the knob!

The bag on my bike hasn’t accumulated quite so much crud, because it’s only a few months old, but it’s just as crowded:

KG-UV3D + GPS interface on Tour Easy – top view

This whole “bicycle mobile APRS system”, to abuse a term, slowly grew from a voice-only interface for our ICOM IC-Z1A radios. Improving (and replacing!) one piece at a time occasionally produced horrible compatibility problems, while showing why commercial solutions justify owning metalworking tools, PCB design software, and a 3D printer.

I long ago lost track of the number of Quality Shop Time hours devoted to all this, which may be the whole point…

In other news, the 3D-printed fairing mounts, blinky light mounts, and helmet mirror mounts continue to work fine; I’m absurdly proud of the mirrors. Mary likes her colorful homebrew seat cover that replaced a worn-out black OEM cover for a minute fraction of the price.

2012-09-11