The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Photography & Images

Taking & making images.

  • Canon SX230HS Lens Cap

    The SX230HS camera lives in my pants pocket, where it gets pressed between my leg and anything I lean against. Turns out that the lens turret end cap isn’t quite thick enough to not bend inward against the leaves that cover the lens, which causes them to hang up. The solution boils down to a hideous external lens cap:

    Canon SX230HS with lens cap
    Canon SX230HS with lens cap

    It’s built from forget-me-not yellow filament for an obvious reason…

    The sheet-metal plate bears against the non-moving rim around the turret. I marked the plate’s diameter with a compass, extracted it from the sheet with left-cutting tin snips, filed off the slivers, rounded the edge, and it snapped right into the recess where a touch of acrylic caulk holds it firmly in place.

    A thin plastic cover would be too flexible and a thicker plastic cover would be too thick; this must fit into an already-snug cloth pouch where a few additional millimeters of girth actually matter. My previous camera taught me that pocket fuzz gets into everything, so a pouch isn’t optional.

    The interior isn’t too inspiring, but you can see what two layers of plastic look like across the bottom:

    SX230HS lens cap - interior
    SX230HS lens cap – interior

    The front has the shallow recess that captures the metal plate. Because the front builds against the aluminum build platform, I added a support structure inside the recess:

    SX230HS lens cap - support in place
    SX230HS lens cap – support in place

    The solid model gives a better view:

    Lens cap - solid model - bottom view
    Lens cap – solid model – bottom view

    It’s basically a ring with tabs under the recess. The ring OD matches the lens caps’s ID, with a height equal to the recess depth, so only the tabs contact the cap. I removed them by twisting each tab with a needle-nose pliers until the whole thing popped loose:

    SX230HS lens cap - support structure
    SX230HS lens cap – support structure

    A bit of scraper and scalpel cleanup and it’s all good. The detail pix show the first trial of the lens cap, which lacks the nice bevel around the front rim.

    The camera is smart enough to notice when something blocks the lens: it immediately shuts down and displays a lens failure error message. That’s probably not a Good Thing on a regular basis, but it doesn’t seem to do any harm.

    FWIW, my previous pocket camera, a Casio EX-Z850 , sported a recessed and somewhat thicker turret end cap that didn’t have this problem. Mary says she’ll make a case for this camera, too, but until then I’m using a pouch from a dinky VOIP phone that just barely holds the camera.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Lens cap for Canon SX230HS
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU - Nov 2011
    
    //-------
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with +1 shells, 3 solid layers, 0.2 infill
    
    ThreadThick = 0.33;
    ThreadWidth = 2.0 * ThreadThick;
    
    HoleFinagle = 0.20;
    HoleFudge = 1.00;
    
    function HoleAdjust(Diameter) = HoleFudge*Diameter + HoleFinagle;
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    //-------
    // Dimensions
    
    LensDia = 53.0;
    LensRad = LensDia/2;
    LensLength = 8.0;
    
    PlateThick = IntegerMultiple(0.75,ThreadThick);
    PlateDia = 48.0;
    
    Shell = 2*ThreadWidth;
    Spacer = 2*ThreadThick;
    
    CapOD = LensDia + 2*Shell;
    CapLength = LensLength + Spacer + PlateThick;
    CapSides = 48;
    
    CenterHoleDia = 44.0;
    
    BevelWidth = PlateThick;
    
    NumStruts = 16;
    SupportStrutLen = (PlateDia - ThreadWidth)/2;		// small gap to cap
    
    //-------
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=HoleAdjust(FixDia)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-------
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    difference() {
      PolyCyl(CapOD,CapLength,CapSides);
    
      translate([0,0,(Spacer + PlateThick)])					// lens shell
    	PolyCyl(LensDia,(LensLength + Protrusion),CapSides);
    
      translate([0,0,-Protrusion])								// center hole
    	PolyCyl(CenterHoleDia,(CapLength + Protrusion));
    
      translate([0,0,-Protrusion])								// bevel
    	difference() {
    	  cylinder(r=(CapOD/2 + 2*(BevelWidth + Protrusion)),
    			   h=(2*BevelWidth + Protrusion),
    			   $fn=CapSides);
    	  cylinder(r1=(CapOD/2 - BevelWidth - Protrusion),
    			   r2=(CapOD/2 + BevelWidth),
    			   h=(2*BevelWidth + Protrusion),
    			   $fn=CapSides);
    	}
    
      difference() {
    	translate([0,0,-Protrusion])							// cover plate recess
    	  PolyCyl(PlateDia,(PlateThick + Protrusion));
    	for (Index=[0:(NumStruts - 1)])							// support struts
    	  rotate(Index*360/NumStruts)
    		translate([-ThreadWidth,-SupportStrutLen,0])
    		  cube([2*ThreadWidth,SupportStrutLen,PlateThick]);
      }
    }
    
    difference() {									// support ring
      PolyCyl(CenterHoleDia,PlateThick);
      translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    	PolyCyl((CenterHoleDia - 4*ThreadWidth),(PlateThick + 2*Protrusion));
    }
    
  • Logitech Ball Camera Tripod Adapter

    The Logitech notebook webcam that peers into the Thing-O-Matic has terrible dynamic range compensation; turning on the LED ring light washes out the image something awful. An old Logitech ball camera seems better, but it sits atop a rubbery dingus adapted to grip huge old laptops. So I built an adapter with a standard 1/4-20 tripod screw thread in the bottom that ought to make it more useful.

    The old & new mounts compared:

    Logitech ball camera mounts
    Logitech ball camera mounts

    The color change comes from switching to yellow filament for an upcoming larger object.

    The solid model shows those tiny little notches will require a bit of riffler file work:

    Logitech camera tripod adapter - solid model
    Logitech camera tripod adapter – solid model

    The bottom has a blind 1/4-20 tapped hole. Lacking a bottoming tap, not having any broken 1/4-20 taps, and being unwilling to grind the end off a perfectly good taper tap, I filed three notches along a bolt. Ran the taper tap in until it hit bottom, ran the bolt in likewise, and defined the result to be Good Enough:

    Homebrew bottoming tap
    Homebrew bottoming tap

    On the other end, the most probable failure will leave that delicate little post jammed firmly inside the camera’s socket. There’s not enough post to allow printing a small guide hole, but there’s no real need for one; I drilled a #50 hole right down the middle, ran a 2-56 screw into it without tapping the hole, and filed the screw head flat:

    Camera mount with filed screw
    Camera mount with filed screw

    After cleaning up those notches, it snapped solidly into place:

    Logitech ball camera with mount
    Logitech ball camera with mount

    And then the camera sits neatly atop a cheap Gorillapod knockoff:

    Logitech ball camera on tripod
    Logitech ball camera on tripod

    That tiny reddish dot in the middle of the imposing set of rings marks the actual lens, so it’s more of a pinhole camera than anything else. The fixed focus kicks in beyond a meter, but a bit of rummaging in the Box o’ Lenses produced a random meniscus lens that pulled the focus in to maybe 100 mm. Alas, that means the camera must float in mid-air about 15 mm inside the Thing-O-Matic’s box. If I can conjure up a mount that holds the ball inside the box, above-and-forward of the stage, that’d work great. VLC can allegedly rotate the image upside-down, so maybe I can mount it bottom-up.

    Here’s everything I know about those two cameras, with the ball camera on top and the webcam on the bottom:

    Logitech ball and notebook webcam data
    Logitech ball and notebook webcam data

    Apparently it’s easier to put that information on a tag than provide a good old data plate on the camera body.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Tripod mount for Logitech ball camera
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU - Oct 2011
    
    include </home/ed/Thing-O-Matic/lib/MCAD/units.scad>
    include </home/ed/Thing-O-Matic/Useful Sizes.scad>
    include </home/ed/Thing-O-Matic/lib/visibone_colors.scad>
    
    //-------
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with +0 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.33;
    ThreadWidth = 2.0 * ThreadThick;
    
    HoleFinagle = 0.2;
    HoleFudge = 1.02;
    
    function HoleAdjust(Diameter) = HoleFudge*Diameter + HoleFinagle;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    //-------
    // Dimensions
    
    BallDia = 60.0;				// camera ball
    BallRad = BallDia/2;
    
    BaseDia = 16.0;				// interface at tripod surface
    BaseRad = BaseDia/2;
    
    BaseLength = 10.0;			// to base of ball
    
    BoltDia = Tap025_20;		// standard 1/4-20 thread
    BoltLength = 7.0;
    
    StemLength = 8.5;
    StemDia = 4.7;
    StemRad = StemDia/2;
    
    FlangeWidth = 6.6;
    FlangeThick = 2.6;
    
    NotchSectionDia = 1.4;		// toroid cross-section diameter
    NotchSectionRad = NotchSectionDia/2;
    NotchOffset = 2.3;			// from top of stem
    
    //-------
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=HoleAdjust(FixDia)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-------
    //
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    translate([0,0,BaseLength])
      union() {
    	difference() {
    	  translate([0,0,-BaseLength])
    		cylinder(r=BaseRad,h=2*BaseLength);
    	  translate([0,0,BallRad])
    		sphere(r=BallRad);
    	  translate([0,0,-(BaseLength + Protrusion)])
    		PolyCyl(BoltDia,(BoltLength + Protrusion));
    	}
    	rotate(180/16)
    	  cylinder(r=StemRad,h=StemLength,$fn=16);
    	difference() {
    	  translate([0,0,StemLength/2])
    		cube([FlangeWidth,FlangeThick,StemLength],center=true);
    	  translate([0,0,(StemLength - NotchOffset)])
    		rotate_extrude(convexity=3,$fn=64)
    		  translate([FlangeWidth/2,0,0])
    			circle(r=NotchSectionRad,$fn=16);
    	  translate([0,-FlangeWidth/2,StemLength + sqrt(FlangeWidth)])
    		rotate([0,45,0])
    		  cube(FlangeWidth + 2*Protrusion);
    	  translate([0,FlangeWidth/2,StemLength + sqrt(FlangeWidth)])
    		rotate([0,45,180])
    		  cube(FlangeWidth + 2*Protrusion);
    	}
      }
    
  • Coopers Hawks Drying Out

    One of the Coopers Hawks that keep the rodents under control around here landed atop a pine tree and spread its wings to dry out:

    Coopers Hawk drying in pine tree
    Coopers Hawk drying in pine tree

    Shortly thereafter, the second hawk arrived and the pair shared some Quality Body Maintenance time:

    Coopers Hawks in pine tree
    Coopers Hawks in pine tree

    The first image comes from the Sony DSC-H5 with the 1.7 tele adapter. The second is from the Canon DX230HS with the digital zoom set to 2x “digital tele adapter mode” and the optical zoom cranked all the way out; they’re both small crops from larger images. Not much to choose between the two, although the Canon wins hands-down for convenience.

  • Fritillary Butterflies

    A pair of fritillary butterflies have been enjoying the butterfly bush at the living room window. The first one has a slightly tattered wing:

    Fritillary butterfly - dorsal
    Fritillary butterfly – dorsal

    The camera can’t do justice to the silver patches on the bottom of the rear wing. They’re not reflective like a sheet of silver, but they shine like metal in the light:

    Fritillary butterfly - ventral
    Fritillary butterfly – ventral

    The second one has slightly different markings:

    Fritillary Butterfly 2 - dorsal
    Fritillary Butterfly 2 – dorsal

    And from the bottom:

    Fritillary Butterfly 2 - ventral
    Fritillary Butterfly 2 – ventral

    We think they’re Great Spangled Fritillaries. Silver Bordered should have a black dot in the middle of the under rear wing.

  • Squash Bees

    These critters look like bumblebees, but they’re squash bees, native to the Americas, working over a squash blossom just inside the garden gate. Much smaller than carpenter bees that drill holes in nearby garden posts, a bit smaller than bumblebees, and good to have around when you’re raising squash!

    Squash bees in flower
    Squash bees in flower

    I noticed the third bee only after looking closely at the picture.

    This is a handheld tight macro with the Canon SX230HS using the flash. Surprisingly, the autofocus target picked out the bees and tracked them quite well. A tripod would help, but not all that much.

  • Kensington Trackball: Scroll Ring Tweakage

    Of late, something in the pile of input devices attached to my main PC has been feeding occasional bursts of upward scroll commands, to the extent that editing long documents (something I do quite a bit of, oddly enough) was becoming difficult. By process of elimination, the culprit turned out to be the Kensington trackball to the left of the keyboard: unplugging it eliminated the problem.

    Having had problems with that thing before and having gotten considerable feedback from other folks, I had a general idea of how to proceed: putz with the IR emitter-detector pair, but not very much. A side view of the pair with the trackball cup and scroll ring removed:

    Scroll ring IR emitter-detector quadrature pair
    Scroll ring IR emitter-detector quadrature pair

    Now, what’s weird about that setup is that the detector lens seems to be pointing in the wrong direction: away from the emitter’s lens. You know it’s the detector because it’s tinted: there’s no point in filtering the emitter’s output (although I have seen gray-tinted IR LEDs, which I think is just to mark them as different from visible LEDs). Here’s proof: a pure IR picture from my Sony DSC-F717 in Nightshot (a.k.a. IR) mode through a Hoya R72 visible-block filter:

    Quadrature pair in pure IR
    Quadrature pair in pure IR

    Some possibilities for why the detector is backwards:

    • It’s an assembly screwup (unlikely, but possible)
    • That’s not a lens, it’s a locating tab (different on emitter & detector?)
    • The backside uses the metal conductors as slits to enhance the signal (my favorite)

    Here’s a grossly image-enhanced blowup of the detector from that picture:

    Quadrature IR detector in pure IR - detail
    Quadrature IR detector in pure IR – detail

    The case becomes transparent in pure IR, so you can see the metal lead frame inside. I think they’re using the gaps between the leads to enhance the contrast of the scroll ring edges passing through the beam: absolutely no IR except when a gap aligns with a scroll ring opening.

    [Update: read the comments for a different interpretation; I’m probably wrong.]

    That would also explain why the pair seems so sensitive to alignment: there’s very little IR hitting the detector, because the IR illumination passes through the transparent-to-IR case and vanishes out the far side, with only a tiny bit reflected to the sensor!

    Anyhow, I pushed the pair minutely toward each other, just enough to feel the leads bend, and put everything back together. So far it seems to be working perfectly, but it’s done that before …

    [Comment: Jack found a different solution that might produce better results:

    Just got the Problem with my Scroll ring and thanks to your blog i digged a bit deeper.

    here is the Solution for my Problem:

    I checked this while connected and i found that bending worked only for a short time, so i gave a closer look to the contacts.

    all are soldered from below BUT two contacts are on the upper side.
    normaly solder should flow into but here it was as simple as just resolder the receiver with enough solder an its now working again. (btw a realigned the magnet to get a better response)

    Thanks
    Jack

    ps. the size of the cuts in the metall from the scroll ring differ, a shame for that price..

    It’s certainly worth trying, particularly when your Expert Mouse trackball isn’t working…

    Update: Nine years in the future, a real fix appears!

  • Generic NB-5L Battery Performance: FAIL

    The first version of the NB-5L battery holder worked well enough to get some initial performance curves from the assortment of eBay batteries. I bought one apiece from four different vendors for around $3 each; an order of magnitude less than OEM Canon NB-5L camera batteries. Based on past experience, I didn’t expect much and, lo-and-behold, I wasn’t disappointed in the least! Clicky for more dots:

    Canon NB-5L - first tests
    Canon NB-5L – first tests

    Using a 500 mA discharge current (roughly C/2) seemed reasonable, but I have no idea what the camera actually draws and the Canon manual isn’t forthcoming. These are all hot off the Canon charger.

    That nice long curve on the top is the OEM Canon NB-5L that came with the camera and delivers pretty much its rated 1050 mAh.

    The generic batteries have two faults:

    • Low discharge voltage (high internal resistance?)
    • Much less than their claimed capacity (they lie!)

    The one labeled D Group was advertised as 1500 mAh, which seemed unreasonable on the face of it. The battery case says 1050 mAh and the vendor said their manufacturer “must have shipped them the wrong batteries”. Yeah, right, like they hadn’t noticed up. They wanted me to return it (on their dime, by “refusing” the shipment, which is, AFAICT, prohibited after you open the package), which says that they didn’t have any batteries with “1500 mAh” printed on the side for an exchange. Of course, their advertising for the other NB-5L batteries they offer on eBay hasn’t changed, so … they lie!

    The Anonymous Gray battery is particularly feeble; I may harvest the frame and connector and battery protection circuit to build an external battery pack with far more capacity.

    The crinkly black trace comes from testing that battery with wires taped in place before I got the first version of the holder up & running well enough to take the rest of the measurements.

    Only one generic battery has a manufacturer’s name, two lack regulatory agency markings (not that I expect any to comply with the requirements implied by those markings), and all four are obviously junk. I’ll use them for around-the-house pix with the charger close at hand, but … now we all know that you don’t get something for nothing. No surprise there, eh?