The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • OMTech 60 W Laser: Axis Angle Check

    OMTech 60 W Laser: Axis Angle Check

    After tweaking the OMTech laser’s axis scale calibration, it seemed like a good idea to see whether the axes run perpendicular to each other:

    OMTech Axis Cal - framing square
    OMTech Axis Cal – framing square

    A carpenter’s framing square isn’t the most precise instrument, but the pair in my collection agree on their right-angularity to within my ability to measure the difference.

    Aligning the short arm with the Y axis showed the X axis was off by 1.2 mm in 21 inches = 530 mm, an angle of 0.13°, which is just about as good as it’s ever going to be.

    The honeycomb frame is definitely not a precisely aligned unit, but the front edge is parallel to the X axis within an astonishing 0.03°, measured along the rear edge of the long arm pushed against the front of the frame. The aluminum frame has a distinct outward bow in the middle averaged out by the long arm.

    Unfortunately, the honeycomb frame on the right side is nowhere near that nice. While I had the long scale aligned with the X axis travel, I sleazed a smaller square up against it:

    OMTech Axis Cal - honeycomb frame misalignment
    OMTech Axis Cal – honeycomb frame misalignment

    It’s as bad as it looks:

    OMTech Axis Cal - honeycomb frame vs axis travel - detail
    OMTech Axis Cal – honeycomb frame vs axis travel – detail

    The scale departs from the black square’s arm by 4 mm over 260 mm, for a 0.88° misalignment.

    I think the honeycomb frame is, at best, a parallelogram (and likely a trapezoid), and each side is also bowed by a few millimeters along its length, so any misalignment will depend on where you stand and which way you look.

    In all fairness, it was never intended as an alignment fixture and nobody really cares about angular misalignment as long as the puppy portrait comes out pretty much in the middle of the coaster.

    Angular Alignment meme
    Angular Alignment meme

    Yes, yes I am.

    It’s easy enough to make an alignment fixture:

    OMTech Axis Cal - honeycomb frame angle fixture
    OMTech Axis Cal – honeycomb frame angle fixture

    The cut along the left edge is, by definition, parallel to the Y axis, so the left edge of the larger slice serves to align flat things to be cut and hold them in place:

    Laser cutter deck fixture
    Laser cutter deck fixture

    The upper sheet (a simple chipboard rectangle) sits perpendicular (set with the short square) to the edge, held to the honeycomb with magnets, and kept in alignment with two adjustable stops snugged against it. A few smaller magnets can hold the sheet flat against the honeycomb as needed.

    The sliver cut off the MDF is 7.85 mm at the top and 9.70 mm at the bottom, for an angle of 0.53° over its 210 mm length, a bit less than the angle measured above. It now lives in the tooling pile against future need.

  • DripWorks Valve Fracture

    DripWorks Valve Fracture

    Early in the irrigation season, Mary turned on a DripWorks Micro-Flow Valve, only to have the knob + stem pop out and release a stream of water in the wrong place. Mary jammed it back in place until I could chop out the offending valve and install a known-clear replacement.

    The knob broke off the stem when I tried to pry it out of the valve body:

    Failed Dripworks valve - parts
    Failed Dripworks valve – parts

    The lip around the inside of the cap snaps over the top of the body, which is why I wrecked the stem, but the chip broke off the cap while Mary was turning it just before the stem popped out. Her fingers are barely strong enough to turn the valve, which means something had gone wrong before she started turning.

    A look straight into the valve body:

    Failed Dripworks valve - top view
    Failed Dripworks valve – top view

    The stem has swarf left over from drilling out the mold flash last year:

    Failed Dripworks valve - stem
    Failed Dripworks valve – stem

    All in all, the Dripworks drip irrigation system works well, but their overall attention to QC leaves something to be desired.

  • OMTech 60 W Laser: Axis Scale Check

    OMTech 60 W Laser: Axis Scale Check

    Laying out my longest engraved scale on the honeycomb:

    OMTech Axis Cal - dot positioning
    OMTech Axis Cal – dot positioning

    The zero-th step aligns the scale with the axis travel: slide one end of the scale to put the dot on the edge, jog to the other end, slide to put the dot on the edge, iterate until the dot is the same brightness on both ends.

    The scale lines are a tidy 0.2 mm wide, the red laser dot might be 0.4 (it’s rectangular-ish), and a jog increment of 0.2 mm works well. I can manually align (pronounced “slide”) the scale on the honeycomb to center the dot within a line, whereupon moving the head a known distance to the other end of the scale and counting-while-jogging a few steps until the dot drops into the proper line gives the offset from the correct distance.

    Jogging 590 mm along the X axis produced 589.8 mm of actual travel (one jog step short of the line 590 mm from the start), an error of -340 ppm.

    Jogging 495 mm along the Y axis travels 494.4 mm, an error of 1212 ppm. That’s considerably more than I expected and required a few iterations until I believed it.

    Both axes use steppers with 20 tooth pulleys and 3 mm pitch belts, so the laser head moves 60 mm per motor revolution. The stepper drivers are configured for 5000 steps/rev, so the axes should have a step length of 12 µm = 60 mm / 5000 step. Both axes arrived with Step Length values set to weird numbers very close to 12 µm, but, after a quick check showed incorrect travel distances, I reset them to 12 µm before making real measurements.

    LightBurn provides access to the Ruida controller’s “Vendor Settings” (after a warning to not mess things up) and allows you to change them:

    OMTech Laser - Axis step length settings
    OMTech Laser – Axis step length settings

    The values shown above come from multiplying 12 µm by the ratio of the actual to the intended distance:

    • 11.9959 = 12 × 589.8 / 590
    • 11.9855 = 12 × 494.4 / 495

    Repeating the tests with those slightly smaller step sizes produces motions that are spot on to within my ability to measure them.

    Neither of those changes was large enough to affect the outcome of cutting the Tek Circuit Computer decks, which are much smaller than the full extent of the axes and thus see much smaller errors.

  • Laser Printer vs. Laser Cutter: Alignment & Scale

    Laser Printer vs. Laser Cutter: Alignment & Scale

    The setup for cutting the Tektronix Circuit Computer decks looks like this:

    Tek CC - Bottom Deck cutting setup
    Tek CC – Bottom Deck cutting setup

    Four neodymium bar magnets hold the corners flat against the honeycomb and the neo disk magnet pins the center down, thus ensuring the red alignment laser meets the cutting beam at its focal point on the surface.

    The triangular shapes mark the OD of the perimeter (177.8 mm) plus twice the cut margin on each side (2×2 mm), with the tick mark in the upper right ensuring I slap every deck down in the proper orientation. Aligning the two right marks to the edge of the honeycomb frame (with a straightedge for some offset) aims the deck’s 0° index along the cutter’s X axis.

    The cut pattern origin is, naturally enough, the center point of the deck, so aligning the red dot to the center cross should put the OD cut at the place all around the perimeter. For confirmation, I fire the laser (“A single ping, Comrade.”) and verify the hole is in the middle of the cross.

    Before cutting the deck, the laser also marks the corner shapes, so this may come as some surprise:

    Tek CC Middle Deck Corner Targets
    Tek CC Middle Deck Corner Targets

    The laser printer (a venerable HP LaserJet 1200) produced the dark triangles and the laser cutter (a new OMTech 60 W) burned the light brown marks. The picture is a composite of the four corners, with the blank center removed to concentrate on what’s important.

    The scrawls give the edge-to-edge distances in both inches (because that was the scale at hand) and converted to millimeters (because that’s how it’s laid out), with the L suffix for the laser marks.

    What’s of interest is that you can’t overlay the two sets of marks by a combination of scaling and rotation with the centers (not shown) of the two patterns pinned together.

    The laser measurements differ from the ideal 181.8 mm by 0.1 mm vertically and 0.4 mm horizontally. This may require dinking with the scale factors in the firmware, which I recall having weird values.

    The LaserJet is definitely not a precise instrument, off by 0.4 mm vertically and a millimeter horizontally, with considerable variation. I think this comes down to unrealistic expectations for toner stuck to a flexible sheet wrapped around rollers and heated enough to melt dust into the fibers.

    More study is indicated …

  • Sunbeam 3035 Clothes Iron: Rusted Spring

    Sunbeam 3035 Clothes Iron: Rusted Spring

    Some weeks ago the Sunbeam clothes iron Mary uses for her quilting projects stopped retracting its cord and a few days ago the entire compartment holding the cord spool simply fell off:

    Sunbeam 3035 Iron - detached cord compartment
    Sunbeam 3035 Iron – detached cord compartment

    One plastic stud and two thin plastic tabs held the compartment onto the rest of the iron. How they lasted this long I do not know, but they are neither replaceable nor fixable.

    When you see badly rusted screws in an electrical device, you know the story cannot end well:

    Sunbeam 3035 Iron - cord connections
    Sunbeam 3035 Iron – cord connections

    And, indeed, it hasn’t:

    Sunbeam 3035 Iron - retraction spring rust
    Sunbeam 3035 Iron – retraction spring rust

    This being a steam iron, it has a water tank that gets filled through an awkward port with a sliding cover. Mary is as conscientious a person as you’ll ever meet, but the occasional spill has certainly happened and it is painfully obvious the iron’s designers anticipated no such events.

    The coil spring had rusted into a solid mass:

    Sunbeam 3035 Iron - spring rust - detail
    Sunbeam 3035 Iron – spring rust – detail

    I removed the spring, soaked it in Evapo-Rust for a few hours, then cleaned and oiled it:

    Sunbeam 3035 Iron - relaxed spring
    Sunbeam 3035 Iron – relaxed spring

    Rewinding and reinstalling the spring showed it has lost its mojo and cannot retract more than a few feet of cord.

    She’s in the middle of a quilting project and will replace the iron with whatever cheapnified piece of crap might be available these days. Similar irons have reviews reporting they begin spitting rust after a few months, which suggests the plastic tank or stainless steel hardware in this one have been cost-reduced with no regard for fitness-for-use.

  • Laser Imaging: Glass vs. Titanium Dioxide

    Laser Imaging: Glass vs. Titanium Dioxide

    A stack of glass shelves has long awaited this fate:

    Glass engraving - front overview
    Glass engraving – front overview

    As with the paving tile, the image came from a grayscale photo run through a halftone filter. The leftmost four images were burned through a titanium dioxide layer poured / spread over the glass surface. The rightmost two were burned directly into the glass, serving as a reminder that glass absorbs infrared radiation. The power levels varied from 15% to 60%, although I wasn’t taking notes, with a 400 mm/s scan speed.

    It looks much the same when viewed from the rear:

    Glass engraving - back overview
    Glass engraving – back overview

    Although the process is often described as blasting chips out of the glass, there’s definitely melting going on. A closer look at the middle image in the top row, with darker gray patches from titanium fused into the glass:

    Glass engraving - partial TiO2 fusion
    Glass engraving – partial TiO2 fusion

    Some pits have only a tiny dot of titanium, almost invisible against the glare from the glass around the rim:

    Glass engraving - plain detail
    Glass engraving – plain detail

    A very close look shows damaged glass, with titanium in some of the pits:

    Glass engraving - TiO2 detail
    Glass engraving – TiO2 detail

    Higher laser power fuses more titanium into contiguous areas that appear much darker, as in the middle bottom image:

    Glass engraving - full TiO2 fusion
    Glass engraving – full TiO2 fusion

    This is loosely based on commentary in two LightBurn forum threads about variations on what’s known as the Norton White Tile Method, with more examples on the V1 Engineering forum. Just applying TiO₂ seems less awful than various paints / primers / whatever, with the additional benefit of eliminating the overhead of spraying / cleaning up.

    The secret seems to be having enough power to chip the glass and decompose the TiO₂ into darker titanium, while not blasting the result entirely off the surface. Fairly obviously, this will require more experimentation than I’ve done so far.

    Minimal assist air protects the laser focus lens from the debris and plenty of ventilation air carries the abrasive result out of the cabinet.

    Not something I foresee doing a lot of, but at least I know what happens.

  • Laser Imaging: Paving Tile vs. Titanium Dioxide

    Laser Imaging: Paving Tile vs. Titanium Dioxide

    Dump enough titanium dioxide powder into denatured alcohol to make a thin slurry, bloosh it onto a reasonably clean paving / floor / whatever tile, spread it out with a chip brush, let the alcohol evaporate, then try a few images with various laser power settings scanned at 400 mm/s:

    Paving tile - TiO2 prep and engrave
    Paving tile – TiO2 prep and engrave

    Wash off the TiO₂ powder to leave the fused titanium behind:

    Paving tile - TiO2 images
    Paving tile – TiO2 images

    A closer look at the middle eye:

    Paving tile - TiO2 images - detail
    Paving tile – TiO2 images – detail

    The small granules spread across the surface are glass chips that probably improve traction, so this must have been a paving or floor tile intended for wet areas. A small stack of whole tiles and fragments Came With The House™, they’ve come in handy over the years, and that’s all we know.

    The darkest image was at 40% power (maybe 24 W) and the lightest at 15%, although my notes are a bit fuzzy, and it started as a grayscale image dithered into on/off dots.

    Obviously, my imaging hand is weak, but it does verify that TiO₂ powder will produce some sort of image without all the bother and solvents associated with paints / primers and the removal thereof.