Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Our Craftsman lawn mower has both a deadman grip for the motor (the Operator Presence Control Bar) and a Drive Control Lever that engages the rear wheel drive. The latter requires a death grip to keep the belt engaged, which means you (well, I) spend about two hours clenching the grip.
Lawn mower – compound leverage handle
I’ve long since flipped the control to the left side and added thick foam padding, but there’s no adjustment that reduces the death-grip requirement: you can change the engagement distance, not the spring constant.
Evidently the Sears engineers have much stronger hands than anyone in our family.
The doodad hose-clamped to the upright part of the mower handle is a basically a hinge that applies force to the tip of the red handle. The hinge axis lies far enough from the handle’s pivot so that holding the hinge against the handle requires very little force; at least it’s no longer a death grip.
Lawn mower – compound leverage handle engaged
It’s not an ideal solution, but it engages and (more importantly) disengages easily. I still don’t like mowing the lawn, but at least I don’t return with a crippled-up hand.
The hinge is actually a lock hasp, so it has a slot that slides neatly over the Drive Control Lever’s tab. I beat both sides into a more-or-less cylindrical form over a piece of pipe, while miraculously not bending the hinge pin.
Evidently the Sears engineers never actually used the damn mower for two hours at a time.
That comment prompted me to rummage around for one of my favorite photos: a much younger version of my Shop Assistant helping us shred leaves in the front yard.
Shop Assistant in Autumn leaf pile
She thinks it’s entirely right & proper to:
don safety goggles while doing anything even remotely eye-unsafe
wear a dust mask to mow the lawn
jam 30 dB foam plugs into her ears during thrash metal concerts
Printing went smoothly after two preliminary passes to work out the sizes and alignments; this is the second pass, which you can tell because the mirror shoulder has three supports instead of the two shown in the solid model:
Mirror mount parts on build plate
One view of the parts, with the mirror shaft in place:
Mirror mount partial assembly – top
Another view, showing the bottom of the Elevation Plate with the recessed nut:
Mirror mount parts partial assembly – bottom
Assembling the two glue joints required an overnight clamping:
Mirror mount – glued and clamped
Then a layer of double-stick foam tape affixes it firmly to the helmet:
Mirror mount – on helmet
It’s a bit too big and way ugly, but works pretty much as expected.
Two lengths of heatshrink tubing now lock the mirror shaft sections in place; they tended to rotate slightly under normal vibration.
The OpenSCAD code and model have a few modifications from this object. The next one won’t have the third section of mirror shaft, which makes the shoulder and Az Mount smaller, and the Az Mount is 1 mm closer to the El Body. That shaves a few millimeters off the whole thing.
The mirror clamp out there on the end is much too large and has too many fiddly parts. I think a little printed doodad would work, but that’s in the nature of fine tuning.
After a bit of OpenSCAD twiddling, those doodles turned into a printable model. This view shows what it looks like all neatly assembled:
The tiny hole on the top of the Elevation Body accepts a 2-56 setscrew that grabs the arc protruding from the Elevation Plate and locks the up-and-down setting. The Azimuth Mount pivots on the 3-48 screw holding it to the Elevation Mount.
Both of those pivots must be loose enough to move when you bump the mirror and tight enough to stay put in normal use. It’s a delicate balance and I’m not convinced this will work for the long term, but it’s a brassboard.
The 2-56 stud on the end of the mirror shaft screws into a socket in the rear side of the Az Mount. Another 2-56 setscrew in the Az Mount (facing the El Body), grabs the side of the shaft and prevents it from rotating.
The mirror shaft shoulder on the Az Mount (front center) sticks out in mid air and requires a little bit of support.
The El Mount (left rear) builds surprisingly well with its curved top surface downward. If it’s rotated 90 degrees with the curve facing to the left, Skeinforge grumps about not being able to do something or another and generates totally bogus G-Code.
The Helmet Plate has a 3 mm deep depression that more-or-less corresponds to the helmet’s surface. It’s gouged out by a huge sphere sitting on the plate, with a radius calculated from the measured helmet curvature.
The OpenSCAD source code has two useful parameters near the top:
Layout selects the overall appearance: Fit, Show, or Build
Examine selects a single part for inspection & tweakage
You’ll need the MCAD and Visibone libraries to make this work. It’s the original code, without the tweaks to the grid mentioned in the comments there:
This OpenSCAD module spreads an array of cubes across the otherwise featureless preview window, so I know whether the gizmo I’m building or the parts I’m arranging actually fit on the Thing-O-Matic’s build platform. This doesn’t get out to the very edge, but if it looks close, then I should pay more attention anyway.
module ShowPegGrid(Size) {
for (x=[-5:5])
for (y=[-5:5])
translate([x*10,y*10,Size/2])
cube(Size,center=true);
}
ShowPegGrid(1.0);
You obviously don’t want to extrude these things, so put the ShowPegGrid() statement inside an if, so you can turn it off for the final build layout.
This 2-56 stud will hold the mirror shaft into whatever helmet mount I eventually decide on. It’s a pan-head screw that miraculously fits snugly inside the cut-down shaft section, held in with a delicate epoxy dribble around the edge.
The head abuts the end of the smaller shaft section, so the two no longer slide. I think a length of heat-shrink tubing will stabilize them in rotation, although perhaps I should have just slobbered more epoxy into that joint.
After the epoxy cured, I sliced off all but 2 mm of the screw thread with an abrasive wheel and cleaned up the wreckage with a file. I actually remembered to spin on a nut before cutting, which ensured I finished the threads properly.
The business end of the mirror has far too many moving parts: two indented plates for the balls on the mirror and shaft, a screw, and a nut. That’s one too many ball joints, at least, and Wouldn’t It Be Nice If the mirror had a watertight seal around its perimeter?
Mirror ball joint clamp
For now, I just epoxied the nut in place after scuffing up the plate and nut with some sandpaper to give the epoxy something to grip:
Mirror ball joint – epoxied nut
You can’t see the new washer and rubber grommet under the screw head that provides a bit of compliance to hold the balls more securely, plus a dot of low-strength Loctite in the nut to discourage things from falling apart on the road.
With those doodles in mind, I applied an abrasive cutoff wheel to the shaft of an inspection mirror (from the usual eBay supplier) about 15 mm behind the second joint. That puts a short section of the third tube inside the yet-to-be-built helmet mirror mount.
The two copper-colored springs center the smaller tube inside the larger one and provide enough friction to make the whole thing work. The tubes seem to be chrome-plated brass and the springs might be phosphor bronze. I suppose they’re Matryoshka-sized from one end to the other.
I’d never taken one of those shafts apart before; now we both know.
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning 