Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
I cable-tied the mic/earphone cable on Mary’s bike helmet to a rib on the fancy air vents near the back end, hoping that would reduce the inevitable flexing. Alas, it didn’t work out that way and the cable lasted only two seasons. This cut-away view shows the pulverized shield braid inside the jacket:
Fatigue-failed helmet cable
The symptoms were totally baffling: the mic worked perfectly, but the earphones cut out for at most a few syllables. Of course, I can’t wear her helmet and it only failed occasionally while riding. I barked up several wrong trees, until it got so bad that I could make it fail in the garage while listening to the local NWS weather radio station.
I spliced in a new USB male-A connector and (re-)discovered that the braid seems to be aluminum, rather than tinned copper. In any event, the wire is completely unsolderable; I crimped the braid from the new connector to a clean section of the old braid. The braid serves only as an electrostatic shield, as it’s not connected to anything on the helmet end. That should suffice until I rebuild the headsets this winter.
As part of sawing a kitchen countertop apart to fit it into the bathroom, this happened:
Sawed-off sawhorse
I’d very carefully checked the clearance for the first two cuts, but …
The sawhorse is polyethylene, which cannot be glued, so I drilled holes in the internal bulkheads, slobbered JB Industro-Weld epoxy through them, and filled the gaps with wood blocks:
Wood-epoxy PE repair
The goal being to not have metallic fasteners where the saw blade can find them.
This should work for a while:
Sawhorse cap repaired
If that’s never happened to you, I’d say you aren’t doing enough circular saw work…
I finally got around to replacing the sink in the front bathroom, which required a surprising number of tools:
Bathroom tool midden heap
As with the three other sinks I’ve replaced over the years, this one was a beautiful cast-iron monster made by the American Regulator & Standard Sanitary company, back before the name mushed into American Standard. This casting shows the original typography:
Bathroom sink by American Regulator and Standard Sanitary
A thin stainless steel trim ring and 16 (!) clamps held the sink in place on the countertop. Harsh experience taught me to support the sink while removing the clamps, because without the clamps there is nothing holding the sink up and I no longer enjoy stopping the tailpiece of a cast-iron sink with my chest…
Supporting the old sink
As it turned out, the sink required two pumps on the jack to break it free from the gunk gluing it in place; I was pleased to be wrong. I toted it to the end of the driveway, put a FREE sign on it, wherefrom it vanished within two hours. We’ll never know if it became someone’s precious antique or just a source of heavy brass fittings at the scrap metal recycler.
The original vanitory countertop had been recessed into the corner walls before the tiles went up, so I sawed out a chunk of the front edge and bent the plywood enough to tap it out without destroying anything. The countertop rotated around the left-front corner and the right-rear corner looked like this when the dust settled:
Extracted vanitory countertop
Half a century ago, the tile installers did a lovely mud job; the tiles adjoin and the grout is barely 1/16 inch wide. The vanitory case top was dead level, but the tiles weren’t quite aligned and my carefully applied and very neat 5 mm stripe of new caulk looks downright amateurish.
For what it’s worth, the new countertop started life as a stock kitchen countertop. I sawed off the backsplash, trimmed the length, cut a pair of notches to match the recesses, sawed a hole for the sink, rotated it into place, and screwed it down. You can go the custom-top route, but given that you only see about two square feet when you’re done, dropping $400 for 6 ft2 of fancy material with a gaping sink hole or over a kilobuck for a countertop with built-in recessed sink didn’t make enough sense to us.
And, no, vanitory is not a misspelling; I learned a new word during this project:
Vanitory job label
After we sell the house, the new owners will rip all this out without a second thought. After all, Dusky Rose went out of style a long time ago, a perfect hand-set array of 3/4 x 1-5/8 inch floor tiles isn’t attractive, and nobody cares about mud jobs. We’d rather keep that nice work around (even if we’re willing to put up with a simple countertop), but that’s just us; we’re the type of people who think keeping the original spring-loaded turned-wood dowel in the toilet paper holder is charming.
They’ll junk that space heater recessed into the wall, too: it has a long coily 120 V heating element strung inside, easily within the reach of questing little fingers. I added a GFI to that circuit, but I can’t imagine anybody else tolerating it. Times change.
My buddy Mark One asked me to make a golf-ball sized Thing that’s the intersection of three mutually orthogonal cylinders. He claims I (subtractively) machined one from solid plastic, many many years ago, but I cannot imagine I ever had that level of machine shop fu; right now, I’m not sure how I’d fixture the thing.
Cylinder Thing – solid model
It’s much easier with a 3D printer…
Of course, spheroids aren’t printable without support, but you can chop one in half to reveal the nice, flat interior surfaces, then add holes for alignment pegs. Using 0.50 infill makes for a compact mesh inside the ball:
Cylinder Thing – building
Smooth a few imperfections from the mating surfaces and add four pegs (the other two are busy propping the right-hand half off the countertop). Somewhat to my surprise, the alignment holes came out a perfect push fit for the 2.9 mm actual-OD filament with my more-or-less standard 0.2 mm HoleWindageFinagle Constant. This also uses the 1.005 XY scale factor to adjust for ABS shrinkage, not that that matters in this case:
Cylinder Thing – alignment pegs
Then solvent-bond everything together forever more:
Cylinder Thing – clamped
The seam is almost imperceptible around the equator, perhaps because I didn’t slobber solvent right up to the edge. I did print one without the alignment pegs and demonstrated that you (well, I) can’t glue a spheroid without fixturing the halves; that one goes in my Show-n-Tell heap.
The 0.33 mm Z resolution produces sucky North and South poles; the East, West, Left, and Right poles are just fine, as are the eight Tropical Vertices. After mulling for a bit, I rotated a cylindrical profile upward:
Cylinder Thing Rotated – solid model
The obvious contour lines fit the cylinder much better, although you can see where better Z resolution would pay off:
Cylinder Thing – rotated
This was at 0.33 mm x 0.66 mm, 200 °C, 30 & 100 mm/s, 2 rpm. No delamination problems; I applied a wood chisel to persuade those big flat surfaces to part company with the Kapton tape.
The OpenSCAD source code:
// Three intersecting cylinders
// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU - Oct 2011
Layout = "Build"; // Show Build
//- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
// Print with +1 shells and 3 solid layers
// Use infill solidity = 0.5 or more...
ThreadThick = 0.33;
ThreadWidth = 2.0 * ThreadThick;
HoleWindage = 0.2;
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
//------ Model dimensions
CylDia = 2*IntegerMultiple(40.0/2,ThreadThick);
CylRad = CylDia/2;
echo(str("Actual diameter: ",CylDia));
Angle = [45,0,0]; // rotate to choose build orientation
$fn=128;
AlignPegDia = 2.90;
//-------
function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
}
module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
Range = floor(50 / Space);
for (x=[-Range:Range])
for (y=[-Range:Range])
translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
%cube(Size,center=true);
}
//------- Model bits & pieces
module OneCyl() {
cylinder(r=CylRad,h=CylDia,center=true);
}
module ThreeCyl() {
intersection() {
OneCyl();
rotate([90,0,0]) OneCyl();
rotate([0,90,0]) OneCyl();
}
}
module HemiThing() {
difference() {
rotate(Angle)
ThreeCyl();
translate([0,0,-CylRad])
cube(CylDia,center=true);
for (Index = [0:3])
rotate(Index*90)
translate([CylRad/2,0,-Protrusion])
PolyCyl(AlignPegDia,5+Protrusion);
}
}
//---------
ShowPegGrid();
if (Layout == "Show")
ThreeCyl();
if (Layout == "Build") {
translate([CylRad,CylRad,0])
HemiThing();
translate([-CylRad,-CylRad,0])
HemiThing();
}
I’ve carried all my stuff in a belt pack since long before such things were fashionable and, quite some years ago, a friend made me a custom-sized one that’s been in constant use ever since. Of late, one of the zippers got cranky and finally failed completely.
An autopsy showed the middle of the cross bar on the tab had worn completely through, the stubs had bent outward, and the remains no longer engage the zipper tooth lock.
Worn-through zipper tab
I replaced the tab with a short length of chain and a jump ring, but I fear the pack fabric is also reaching end of life.
The Wouxun KG-UV3D has three holes along the base that capture three tabs in the battery case, with tapered edges to align the case with the contacts. After a few passes to get the dimensions right, the plate matching those features came out like this:
Base plate with tabs
The solid model shows the edge tapering down to a single layer:
Case Tab Base – Solid Model
The compound taper on the corners must match both the base and the sides of the radio. The bottom plate and shell have corresponding tapers that extend across the glued joints:
Radio interface tapers
That worked out surprisingly well, given the small dimensions and odd angles. The tabs, in particular, bumped right up against the 0.66 mm extrusion width; they’re 2.0 mm thick, so there’s barely one thread width inside the perimeter for fill. A bit of filing & slicing removed the usual enlargement at the end / start of each perimeter thread on the tabs, which is entirely acceptable for something this finicky.
The OpenSCAD source code with dimensions is all part of that post, but here’s the radio base shape that gets subtracted from the plate to make those tabs:
Radio Base Polygon – solid model
This seemed easier than adding a bunch of tiny pegs & triangles, but it’s certainly tedious working around a polygon: