The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Optiplex 980 PCI Card Clamp Cover Repair

    The new-to-me Optiplex 980 has a tool-free clamp securing the PCI card brackets to the chassis, with a nice plastic dress cover that really finishes off that side of the case. Alas, it’s secured by five small heat-staked plastic pegs that I managed to shear off as part of a finger fumble that you’ll recognize when it happens to you and which I need not further discuss:

    Optiplex 980 PCI Clamp Cover - disassembled
    Optiplex 980 PCI Clamp Cover – disassembled

    So I drilled two slightly undersized holes for the tiniest screws in the Little Box o’ Tiny Screws:

    Optiplex 980 PCI Clamp Cover - drilling
    Optiplex 980 PCI Clamp Cover – drilling

    The two end plates sticking up are the only square parts of the cover, so that thing is actually clamped by the right-side plate and sheer will power. I ran the drill down 3 mm from the top of the post at the slowest manual jog speed from the Joggy Thing and I did not break through the top and did not hit that lathe bit under the cover.

    The screw threads and a dab of epoxy hold them in place:

    Optiplex 980 PCI Clamp Cover - tiny screws
    Optiplex 980 PCI Clamp Cover – tiny screws

    I’d like to say the finished repair looked like this:

    Optiplex 980 PCI Clamp Cover - in place
    Optiplex 980 PCI Clamp Cover – in place

    But, alas, the eagle-eyed reader will note that the screws are gone, replaced by two dabs of clear acrylic caulk; those faint threads and epoxy were no match for the snap of that latching lever and the slight distortion caused by the spring fingers applying force to the brackets.

    Ah, well, it’s close enough…

  • Gauge Block Set Oiling

    Ray’s Rule of Precision:

    Measure with a micrometer. Mark with chalk. Cut with an axe.

    While pondering the problem of having the Sherline’s Z-axis anti-backlash nut unscrew at the top of its travel, I excavated the gauge block set and measured the gap between it and the bearing preload nut:

    Sherline Z-axis leadscrew nut - gauge block
    Sherline Z-axis leadscrew nut – gauge block

    Turns out that it’s 0.1340 inches, determined by bracketing the sliver above that 0.1300 block with feeler gauges. I don’t believe that last zero, either, as the Basement Shop was about 10 °F below the block’s 68 °F calibration temperature.  [grin]

    The actual size of that gap makes absolutely no difference whatsoever, but fooling around with the gauge blocks gave me an excuse to renew my acquaintance with them and, en passant, massage some oil over their long-neglected bodies:

    Gauge block set
    Gauge block set

    I used La Perle Clock Oil, which isn’t Official Gauge Block Oil, but doesn’t go bad on the shelf. Verily, this bottle may be the last of its kind, as it’s no longer available from any of the usual sources; it appears I bought it back in 2000.

    The blocks are in good shape, probably because they don’t often see the light. FWIW, I have experimentally determined that my body oil doesn’t etch fingerprints into steel.

    The block set, which is similar to a current box o’ blocks from Enco, claims “Workshop Grade”, but the ±0.00050 inch = 1.27 μm tolerance shown in the top row of the labels is much worse than even grade B’s sub-micron tolerance. That newer box claims “Economy” accuracy with the same spec, so I suppose somebody kvetched about mis-using the terms.

    Ah, well, they’re far better than any measurements I’ve needed in a while and entirely suitable for verifying my other instruments.

  • Sherline CNC Mill Z-axis Overrun Prevention Block

    The alert reader will already have noticed the absence of the Z-axis home switch in this picture from yesterday’s post:

    Sherline CNC mill - tommy bar and collet pusher
    Sherline CNC mill – tommy bar and collet pusher

    Turns out that I managed to crunch it, exactly as I expected: I’d added a block to the Z-axis stage that poked the home switch just slightly before the anti-backlash nut unscrewed from the top of the leadscrew, but the stage could continue moving another few millimeters.

    You can see the gap just above the brass anti-backlash nut:

    Sherline Z-axis leadscrew nut - top end
    Sherline Z-axis leadscrew nut – top end

    At that point, the nut has barely a single micro-smidgen of thread engaged; that last 0.1340 inch of travel (yeah, I measured it) isn’t usable.

    Rather than put a collar around the end of the leadscrew, I opted for a brute-force block atop the Z-axis saddle nut that will slam into the bottom of the stepper motor mount just before the anti-backlash nut disengages:

    Sherline Z-axis Overrun Block - rear view
    Sherline Z-axis Overrun Block – rear view

    A strip of tapeless sticky (double-sided tape, minus the tape) holds the block in place on the saddle nut. It’s not subject to any particular stress: as long as it doesn’t fall off, it’s all good.

    I ran the stage upward until it stalled, then epoxied a new switch (with the old fluorescent tape) in place. This shows the result after backing the stage down a few millimeters:

    Sherline Z-axis Overrun Block - side view
    Sherline Z-axis Overrun Block – side view

    The solid model shows off the bevel that provides a bit more room for anti-backlash nut adjustment, not that I ever adjust it that much:

    Sherline Z-Axis Overrun Prevention Block - solid model
    Sherline Z-Axis Overrun Prevention Block – solid model

    Obviously, it doesn’t print in that position, but it’s easier to design it in the natural orientation and flip it around for printing.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Sherline Z-axis Overrun Prevention Block
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU December 2013
    
    Layout = "Show";			// Show Build
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with 2 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    BlockZ = 30.0;				// overall height
    ZLimit = 17.0;				// Z travel limit
    
    TongueX = 9.0;				// beside Z axis dovetail
    TongueY = 10.0;
    
    StubX = 6.0;				// behind Z axis pillar
    StubY = 3.0;
    
    BlockX = TongueX + StubX;	// overall X
    
    TabY = 3.0;					// behind brass bracket
    TabX = BlockX - sqrt(2)*TabY;
    TabZ = BlockZ - ZLimit;
    
    BlockY = TongueY + StubY + TabY;	// overall Y
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //- The Block
    
    module Block() {
    
    	difference() {
    		cube([BlockX,BlockY,BlockZ]);
    
    		translate([-Protrusion,-Protrusion,-Protrusion])	// remove column
    			cube([(StubX + Protrusion),(TongueY + Protrusion),2*BlockZ]);
    
    		translate([-BlockX/2,-Protrusion,-Protrusion])		// form tab
    			cube([2*BlockX,(TongueY + StubY),(TabZ + Protrusion)]);
    
    		translate([0,BlockY,(BlockZ/2 - 0*Protrusion)])
    			rotate(45)
    				cube([3*StubY,2*StubY,(BlockZ + 2*Protrusion)],center=true);
    
    		translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    			cube([sqrt(2)*TabY,2*BlockY,(TabZ + Protrusion)]);
    	}
    }
    
    //-------------------
    // Build it...
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Show")
    	Block();
    
    if (Layout == "Build")
    	translate([-BlockZ/2,-BlockY/2,BlockX])
    	rotate([0,90,0])
    		Block();
    
  • Sherline Tommy Bar Handles

    While putting the speed wrenches in the box with the Sherline four-jaw chuck, it occurred to me that I had all the makings of a handle for Sherline’s steel tommy bars:

    Sherline Tommy Bar Handle - solid model
    Sherline Tommy Bar Handle – solid model

    Because these are intended for pushing, rather than twisting, I dialed the knurl back to 32 DP, reduced the depth to 0.5 mm, and ran the bar almost all the way through the handle for strength:

    Sherline Tommy Bar Handles
    Sherline Tommy Bar Handles

    A dab of urethane adhesive inside the handle holds the bar in place. They started out a snug slip fit, so we’ll see how well that holds the bars in place.

    A tommy bar holds the spindle against the torque from the collet pusher:

    Sherline CNC mill - tommy bar and collet pusher
    Sherline CNC mill – tommy bar and collet pusher

    A pair will come in handy with the three-jaw chuck the next time that one appears.

    The white slab is a very early 3D printed tool from my Thing-O-Matic, made to hold the pin at exactly the proper distance from the pulley so it fits squarely into the pusher and locks it to the spindle:

    Locking pin holder - spindle end view
    Locking pin holder – spindle end view

    Other folks make much nicer tommy bar handles than mine, but I’d say my 3D printed handles beat a common nail any day!

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Knurled handles for Sherline tommy bars
    // Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - December 2013
    
    use <knurledFinishLib_v2.scad>
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with 2 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.20;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;			// extra clearance
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    PI = 3.14159265358979;
    inch = 25.4;
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    ShaftDia = 10.0;				// un-knurled section diameter
    ShaftLength = 10.0;				//  ... length
    
    SocketDia = 4.0;				// tommy bar diameter
    SocketDepth = 40.0;
    
    KnurlLen = 35.0;				// length of knurled section
    KnurlDia = 15.0;				//   ... diameter
    KnurlDPNom = 32;				// Nominal diametral pitch = (# diamonds) / (OD inches)
    
    DiamondDepth = 0.5;				//   ... depth of diamonds
    DiamondAspect = 2;				// length to width ratio
    
    NumDiamonds = floor(KnurlDPNom * KnurlDia / inch);
    echo(str("Num diamonds: ",NumDiamonds));
    
    NumSides = 4*(NumDiamonds - 1);		// 4 facets per diamond. Library computes diamonds separately!
    
    KnurlDP = NumDiamonds / (KnurlDia / inch);				// actual DP
    echo(str("DP Nom: ",KnurlDPNom," actual: ",KnurlDP));
    
    DiamondWidth = (KnurlDia * PI) / NumDiamonds;
    
    DiamondLenNom = DiamondAspect * DiamondWidth;					// nominal diamond length
    DiamondLength = KnurlLen / round(KnurlLen/DiamondLenNom);		//  ... actual
    
    TaperLength = 0.75*DiamondLength;
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
               $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    }
    
    //- Build it
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    difference() {
    	union() {
    		render(convexity=10)
    		translate([0,0,TaperLength])
    			knurl(k_cyl_hg=KnurlLen,
    				  k_cyl_od=KnurlDia,
    				  knurl_wd=DiamondWidth,
    				  knurl_hg=DiamondLength,
    				  knurl_dp=DiamondDepth,
    				  e_smooth=DiamondLength/2);
    		color("Orange")
    		cylinder(r1=ShaftDia/2,
    					r2=(KnurlDia - DiamondDepth)/2,
    					h=(TaperLength + Protrusion),
    					$fn=NumSides);
    		color("Orange")
    		translate([0,0,(TaperLength + KnurlLen - Protrusion)])
    			cylinder(r2=ShaftDia/2,
    					r1=(KnurlDia - DiamondDepth)/2,
    					h=(TaperLength + Protrusion),
    					$fn=NumSides);
    		color("Moccasin")
    		translate([0,0,(2*TaperLength + KnurlLen - Protrusion)])
    			cylinder(r=ShaftDia/2,h=(ShaftLength + Protrusion),$fn=NumSides);
    
    	}
    	translate([0,0,(2*TaperLength + KnurlLen + ShaftLength - SocketDepth + Protrusion)])
    		PolyCyl(SocketDia,(SocketDepth + Protrusion),6);
    }
    
  • 2000 Toyota Sienna: Short Battery Adapter

    Although automobile batteries have “standard” sizes designated by BCI Group numbers, this Group 34R Sears Diehard battery was about an inch shorter than the previous one:

    Toyota Sienna - short Group 34 battery
    Toyota Sienna – short Group 34 battery

    It arrived with a plastic grid embossed with the helpful notation “Use this height adapter under battery if necessary”, but I figured lower was better. A little bending, two snippets of mouse pad (remember mouse pads?), and a section of white plastic rod faced off / drilled on the lathe anchored it flat on the platform with no wiggle room at all.

    With any luck, that’s the last battery the van will ever need…

  • Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard Cleaning Redux

    Part of the routine cleaning around here involves running the vacuum cleaner nozzle over the keyboard to suck up random debris, but that doesn’t extract crud from under the keycaps. Almost exactly three years after the previous cleaning, I finally decided the keys had lost enough of their normal feel to justify the hassle of taking the thing apart.

    Bolstered by that experience, however, I just yanked the keycaps off with a removal tool from my old bag of tricks, revealing the horror that lies beneath the surface:

    Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard - crud buildup
    Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard – crud buildup

    Obviously, I got nasty habits

    Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard - crud detail
    Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard – crud detail

    The keycaps took a swim in a dishpan full of hot soapy water, endured some scrubbing, and emerged looking like new. Thwacking them on a towel ejected the remaining water from the posts.

    With the electronics still in place, I vacuumed the larger chunks out of the tray, scrubbed the aforementioned hot soapy water around the bushings with an acid brush, then cleaned up the residue with cotton swabs. There’s a paper towel under the drain gutters to catch the runoff, which worked surprisingly well.

    The keycap legends have been eroding, as they’re basically a decal stuck on the surface. Eventually I’ll have a crappy non-clicky Das Keyboard Model S Ultimate.

    [Update: a spammer’s script has been attempting to create hundreds of junk comments per day, so I’ve temporarily disabled comments for this post. Drop me a direct note using the About / Copyright / Contact link on the right if it’s critical. I expect this to pass in a few days, but I may be underestimating the stupidity out there. ]

    A note from regular commenter Frans:

    Don’t get a Das Keyboard if you want a keyboard without a keypad. Look into e.g. a Leopold Tenkeyless Otaku. The one to which I include a link comes with the same Cherry MX Brown switches as the Das Keyboard Silent.

    Elite Keyboards

    I want one too.

    They look good to me, too, although I hope the weird Esc key is optional…

  • Water Heater Anode Rod – One Year Check

    A one-year-old magnesium rod looks pretty good, all things considered:

    Water Heater Anode Rod - one year
    Water Heater Anode Rod – one year

    The previous one was still working after seven years, although I had to wreck it to get it out…