The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Canon NB-6LH Battery Test Fixture

    Our Larval Engineer’s new camera uses Canon NB-6LH batteries, which have exactly the same nominal capacity as the NB-5L batteries for my camera, despite being not quite the same size. I cannot imagine any reason for that, other than brand fractionation, but there it is.

    Fortunately, the sizes are pretty close, so I conjured up another 3D printed battery test fixture for the rundown tests:

    Canon NB-6L battery holder
    Canon NB-6L battery holder

    That hideous Powerpole thing came from one of the AA cell packs I’d been using to power the HTs on the bikes, before switching to lithium battery packs. It’s easier to harvest something suitable than to build a new thing, particularly for such a low duty cycle gadget.

    This view of the solid model shows the contact pins, with the lid floating over its alignment pegs (made from snippets of 1.75 mm filament):

    NB-6L Holder - fit layout
    NB-6L Holder – fit layout

    The pegs simplify gluing the lid in place, a process for which you can never have enough clamps:

    Canon NB-6L holder - lid gluing
    Canon NB-6L holder – lid gluing

    A cutaway shows the stepped holes around the contact pin, with the coil springs being the largest cylinder to the right of the solid-looking plug:

    NB-6L Holder - show layout
    NB-6L Holder – show layout

    The contact pins look like this, at least after one remembers to slide on all the parts before soldering the wires in place:

    Canon NB-6L holder - contact pin detail
    Canon NB-6L holder – contact pin detail

    I filed off the inevitable solder bumps, rounded the butt ends with gentle suasion, and generally tidied the pins up so they’re smooth and symmetrical. The springs don’t have a lot of oomph, so wasting any force on friction or binding is a Bad Thing.

    The holes require reaming with twist drills for a nice slip fit around the pins. The OpenSCAD script prints out the relevant diameters and depths:

    ECHO: "Contact pin tip dia: 1.6"
    ECHO: "Drill depth to taper end: 24.1 -- Dia: 2.4"
    ECHO: "            to ferrule end: 15 -- Dia: 3.1"
    ECHO: "            to plug end: 4 -- Dia: 5.2"
    

    Grab the proper drill in a pin punch, adjust so that length protrudes, and have at it. Making the holes about 0.2 mm larger than nominal works well, although your mileage will definitely vary.

    The build layout includes extra retaining plugs, as they tend to go walkabout under the bench:

    NB-6L Holder - build layout
    NB-6L Holder – build layout

    Add a dab of PVC cement with THF inside the holes and the plugs push firmly into place:

    Canon NB-6L holder - pin retaining plugs - detail
    Canon NB-6L holder – pin retaining plugs – detail

    I loves me my 3D printer…

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Holder for Canon NB-6L Li-Ion battery
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU January 2013
    
    include <MCAD/boxes.scad>
    
    // Layout options
    
    Layout = "Plugs";					//  Show Build Fit Case Lid Pins Plugs AlignPins
    
    //- Extrusion parameters - must match reality!
    //  Print with +2 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.20;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    inch = 25.4;
    
    BuildOffset = 3.0;			// clearance for build layout
    
    Gap = 8.0;					// separation for Fit parts
    
    //- Battery dimensions - rationalized from several samples
    //  Coordinate origin at battery corner by contact plates on bottom surface
    
    BatteryLength = 42.5;
    BatteryWidth = 35.5;
    BatteryThick =  7.0;
    
    ContactWidth = 2.10;
    ContactLength = 4.10;
    ContactRecess = 0.85;
    
    ContactOC = 3.18;			// center-to-center across contact face
    ContactOffset = 4.45;		// offset from battery edge
    ContactHeight = 3.05;		// offset from battery bottom plane
    
    AlignThick = 2.8;			// alignment recesses on contact face
    AlignDepth = 2.0;			// into face
    AlignWidth1 = 0.7;			// across face at contacts
    AlignWidth2 = 2.0;			//  ... other edge
    
    //- Pin dimensions
    
    PinTipDia = 1.6;
    PinTipLength = 10.0;
    
    PinTaperLength = 2.3;
    
    PinShaftDia = 2.4;
    PinShaftLength = 6.8;
    
    PinFerruleDia = 3.1;
    PinFerruleLength = 2.0;
    
    PinLength = PinTipLength + PinTaperLength + PinShaftLength + PinFerruleLength;
    
    ExtendRelax = 1.5 + ContactRecess;		// pin extension when no battery is present
    ExtendOvertravel = 1.0;					//  ... beyond engaged position
    
    //- Spring dimensions
    
    SpringDia = 3.1;						// coil OD
    SpringMax = 9.3;
    SpringLength = SpringMax - 0.3;			// slightly compressed
    SpringMin = 4.5;
    
    SpringPlugOD = IntegerMultiple(5.0,ThreadWidth);		// plug retaining the spring
    SpringPlugID = 2.0;
    SpringPlugLength = IntegerMultiple(4.0,ThreadWidth);
    SpringPlugSides = 3*4;
    
    SpringTravel = ExtendRelax + ExtendOvertravel;
    
    //- Holder dimensions
    
    GuideRadius = ThreadWidth;						// friction fit ridges
    GuideOffset = 10;
    WallThick = 4*ThreadWidth;						// holder sidewalls
    
    BaseThick = 6*ThreadThick;			// bottom of holder to bottom of battery
    TopThick = 6*ThreadThick;			// top of battery to top of holder
    
    ThumbRadius = 10.0;			// thumb opening at end of battery
    
    CornerRadius = 3*ThreadThick;			// nice corner rounding
    
    CaseLength = SpringPlugLength + SpringLength + PinLength - ExtendRelax
    			+ BatteryLength + GuideRadius + WallThick;
    CaseWidth = 2*WallThick + 2*GuideRadius + BatteryWidth;
    CaseThick = BaseThick + BatteryThick + TopThick;
    
    AlignPinOD = 1.75;			// lid alignment pins - filament snippets
    AlignPinLength = 5.0;
    AlignPinInset = 7.0;
    
    //- XY origin at front left battery corner, Z on platform below that
    
    CaseLengthOffset = -(SpringPlugLength + SpringLength + PinLength - ExtendRelax);
    CaseWidthOffset = -(WallThick + GuideRadius);
    CaseThickOffset = BaseThick;
    
    LidLength = ExtendRelax - CaseLengthOffset;
    
    echo(str("Contact pin tip dia: ",PinTipDia));
    echo(str("Drill depth to taper end: ",
    		 (SpringPlugLength + SpringLength + PinFerruleLength + PinShaftLength + PinTaperLength),
    		 " -- Dia: ",PinShaftDia));
    echo(str("            to ferrule end: ",
    		  (SpringPlugLength + SpringLength + PinFerruleLength),
    		 " -- Dia: ",PinFerruleDia));
    echo(str("            to plug end: ",SpringPlugLength,
    		 " -- Dia: ",SpringPlugOD));
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
    	   $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-------------------
    
    //-- Guides for tighter friction fit
    
    module Guides() {
      	  translate([GuideOffset,-GuideRadius,CaseThickOffset])
    		PolyCyl(2*GuideRadius,(BatteryThick - Protrusion),4);
    	  translate([GuideOffset,(BatteryWidth + GuideRadius),CaseThickOffset])
    		PolyCyl(2*GuideRadius,(BatteryThick - Protrusion),4);
    	  translate([(BatteryLength - GuideOffset),-GuideRadius,CaseThickOffset])
    		PolyCyl(2*GuideRadius,(BatteryThick - Protrusion),4);
    	  translate([(BatteryLength - GuideOffset),(BatteryWidth + GuideRadius),CaseThickOffset])
    		PolyCyl(2*GuideRadius,(BatteryThick - Protrusion),4);
    	  translate([(BatteryLength + GuideRadius),GuideOffset/2,CaseThickOffset])
    		PolyCyl(2*GuideRadius,(BatteryThick - Protrusion),4);
    	  translate([(BatteryLength + GuideRadius),(BatteryWidth - GuideOffset/2),CaseThickOffset])
    		PolyCyl(2*GuideRadius,(BatteryThick - Protrusion),4);
    
    }
    
    //-- Contact pins (holes therefore)
    
    module PinShape() {
    
      union() {
    	cylinder(r=(PinTipDia + HoleWindage)/2,h=(PinTipLength + Protrusion),$fn=6);
    
    	translate([0,0,PinTipLength])
    	  cylinder(r=(PinShaftDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    			   h=(PinTaperLength + PinShaftLength + Protrusion),$fn=6);
    
    	translate([0,0,(PinLength - PinFerruleLength)])
    	  cylinder(r=(PinFerruleDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    				h=(PinFerruleLength + Protrusion),$fn=6);
    
    	translate([0,0,(PinLength)])
    	  cylinder(r=(SpringDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    				h=(SpringLength + Protrusion),$fn=6);
    
    	translate([0,0,(PinLength + SpringLength - HoleWindage)])	// windage for hole length
    	  cylinder(r=(SpringPlugOD + HoleWindage)/2,h=3*SpringPlugLength,$fn=SpringPlugSides);
    
    //	  translate([0,0,(PinLength + SpringLength + SpringPlugLength)])
    //	  cylinder(r=(SpringPlugOD + HoleWindage)/2,h=2*SpringPlugLength,$fn=SpringPlugSides);	// extend hole
      }
    
    }
    
    module PinAssembly() {
    
      translate([ExtendRelax,ContactOffset,CaseThickOffset + ContactHeight]) {
    	rotate([0,270,0]) {
    	  PinShape();												// pins
    	  translate([0,(2*ContactOC),0])
    		PinShape();
    	}
      }
    
    }
    
    //-- Alignment pins
    
    module AlignPins() {
    
    	for (x=[-1,1])
    		translate([x*(LidLength - 2*AlignPinInset)/2,0,0])
    			rotate(45)
    			PolyCyl(AlignPinOD,AlignPinLength);
    }
    
    //-- Case with origin at battery corner
    
    module Case() {
    
      difference() {
    
    	union() {
    
    	  difference() {
    		translate([(CaseLength/2 + CaseLengthOffset),
    				  (CaseWidth/2 + CaseWidthOffset),
    				  (CaseThick/2)])
    		  roundedBox([CaseLength,CaseWidth,CaseThick],CornerRadius); 	// basic case shape
    
    		translate([-ExtendOvertravel,-GuideRadius,CaseThickOffset])
    		  cube([(BatteryLength + GuideRadius + ExtendOvertravel),
    				(BatteryWidth + 2* GuideRadius),
    				(BatteryThick + Protrusion)]);						// battery space
    
    	  }
    
    	  Guides();
    
    	  translate([-ExtendOvertravel,-GuideRadius,BaseThick])
    		cube([(AlignDepth + ExtendOvertravel),
    			  (AlignWidth1 + GuideRadius),
    			  AlignThick]);											// alignment blocks
    	  translate([-ExtendOvertravel,
    				 (BatteryWidth - AlignWidth2),
    				 BaseThick])
    		cube([(AlignDepth + ExtendOvertravel),
    			  (AlignWidth2 + GuideRadius),
    			  AlignThick]);
    
    	}
    
    	translate([(-ExtendOvertravel),
    			   (CaseWidthOffset - Protrusion),
    			   (CaseThickOffset + BatteryThick)])
    	  cube([CaseLength,
    		    (CaseWidth + 2*Protrusion),
    		    (TopThick + Protrusion)]);								// battery access
    
    	translate([(CaseLengthOffset - Protrusion),
    			   (CaseWidthOffset - Protrusion),
    			   (CaseThickOffset + BatteryThick)])
    	  cube([(CaseLength + 2*Protrusion),
    		    (CaseWidth + 2*Protrusion),
    		    (TopThick + Protrusion)]);								// battery insertion allowance
    
    	translate([(BatteryLength - Protrusion),
    			    (CaseWidth/2 + CaseWidthOffset),
    			    (CaseThickOffset + ThumbRadius)])
    	  rotate([90,0,0])
    		rotate([0,90,0])
    		  cylinder(r=ThumbRadius,
    				   h=(WallThick + GuideRadius + 2*Protrusion),
    				   $fn=22);											// remove thumb notch
    
    	PinAssembly();
    
    	translate([-LidLength/2,BatteryWidth/2,CaseThick - TopThick - (AlignPinLength - TopThick/2)])
    		AlignPins();
      }
    
    }
    
    module Lid() {
    
      difference() {
    	translate([0,0,(CaseThick/2 - BaseThick - BatteryThick)])
    	  roundedBox([LidLength,
    				 CaseWidth,CaseThick],CornerRadius);
    
    	translate([0,0,-(CaseThick/2)])
    	  cube([(LidLength + 2*Protrusion),
    		    (CaseWidth + 2*Protrusion),
    		    (CaseThick)],center=true);
    
    	translate([-ExtendRelax,0,-(AlignPinLength - TopThick/2)])
    		AlignPins();
      }
    
    }
    
    module PlugShape() {
    
      difference() {
    	cylinder(r=SpringPlugOD/2,h=SpringPlugLength,$fn=SpringPlugSides);
    	translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    	  PolyCyl(SpringPlugID,(SpringPlugLength + 2*Protrusion),SpringPlugSides);
      }
    }
    
    module Plugs() {
      translate([0,ContactOC,0])
    	PlugShape();
      translate([0,-ContactOC,0])
    	PlugShape();
    }
    
    //-------------------
    // Build it!
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Case")
      Case();
    
    if (Layout == "Lid")
      Lid();
    
    if (Layout == "Plugs")
    	for (i=[-1:1])
    		translate([i*1.5*SpringPlugOD,0,0])
    			Plugs();
    
    if (Layout == "Pins")
      PinShape();
    
    if (Layout == "AlignPins")
      AlignPins();
    
    if (Layout == "Show") {								// reveal pin assembly
      difference() {
    	Case();
    
    	translate([(CaseLengthOffset - Protrusion),
    			   (CaseWidthOffset - Protrusion + WallThick + ContactOffset + ContactOC),
    			   (BaseThick + ContactHeight)])
    	  cube([(-CaseLengthOffset + Protrusion),
    			 (CaseWidth + 2*Protrusion),
    			 CaseThick + BaseThick - ContactHeight + Protrusion]);
    
    	translate([(CaseLengthOffset - Protrusion),
    			   (CaseWidthOffset - Protrusion),
    			   -Protrusion])
    	  cube([(-CaseLengthOffset + Protrusion),
    			 (WallThick + GuideRadius + ContactOffset + Protrusion),
    			 CaseThick]);
      }
    
      translate([ExtendRelax,ContactOffset,(CaseThickOffset + ContactHeight)]) {	// pins
    	rotate([0,270,0]) {
    	  %PinShape();
    //	  translate([0,(2*ContactOC),0])
    //		%PinShape();
    	}
      }
    
      translate([CaseLengthOffset,ContactOffset,(CaseThickOffset + ContactHeight)])
    	rotate([0,90,0])
    	  PlugShape();
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Build") {
      translate([-(CaseLength/2 + CaseLengthOffset),-(CaseWidthOffset - BuildOffset),0])
    	Case();
      translate([CaseWidth/2,(CaseLengthOffset/2 - BuildOffset),0])
    	rotate([0,0,90])
    	  Lid();
      for (i=[-1:1])
    	translate([CaseLengthOffset/2 + i*1.5*SpringPlugOD,-CaseWidth/2,0])
    		Plugs();
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Fit") {
      Case();
      translate([(-LidLength/2 + ExtendRelax),
    			(CaseWidth/2 + CaseWidthOffset),
    			(BaseThick + BatteryThick + Gap)])
    	  Lid();
      translate([ExtendRelax,ContactOffset,CaseThickOffset + ContactHeight]) {	// pins
    	rotate([0,270,0]) {
    	  %PinShape();
    	  translate([0,(2*ContactOC),0])
    		%PinShape();
    	}
      }
    
      translate([CaseLengthOffset,
    			(ContactOffset + ContactOC),
    			(CaseThickOffset + ContactHeight)])
      rotate([0,90,0])
    	Plugs();
    
      translate([-LidLength/2,BatteryWidth/2,CaseThick])
    #	AlignPins();
    
    }
    
    
  • Thing-O-Matic 286 Conversion: Marlin Firmware Tweaks

    Azteeg X3 - inside TOM286
    Azteeg X3 – inside TOM286

    Although the TOM286 conversion won’t need any fancy firmware, I forked Marlin’s Github repository and created a TOM286 branch based on the Marlin_v1 branch for the Azteeg X3 modifications; in theory, we can blend in future Marlin updates without too much hassle.

    The Pronterface serial port tops out at 115200, so that’s a mandatory change right up front. [grin]

    Marlin has a motherboard definition for an Azteeg X3 (type 67), but without the optional thermocouple inputs. I added motherboard 671, following the lead of the Megatronics board definitions (types 70, 701, and 702). In addition to the changes below, any test for motherboard 67 now includes 671, as the other pins and suchlike (should) be the same.

    Motherboard 671 selects new pin definitions for the temperature inputs in pins.h:

      #if MOTHERBOARD == 671
    	#define TEMP_0_PIN         11   // TC1 on shield
    	#define TEMP_1_PIN          4   // TC2 on shield
    	#define TEMP_2_PIN         13   // T0 thermistor on Azteeg X3 motherboard
      #else
        #define TEMP_0_PIN         13   // ANALOG NUMBERING
        #define TEMP_1_PIN         15   // ANALOG NUMBERING
        #define TEMP_2_PIN         -1   // ANALOG NUMBERING
    #endif
    

    There’s now a TCOUPLE_AMP_TYPE definition in Configuration.h to select AD595 or AD849x thermocouple interfaces:

    // Thermocouple sensor amplifier type
    //  0 = AD595 gain = 10 mV/C
    //  1 = AD849[4567] gain = 5 mV/C
    
    #define TCOUPLE_AMP_TYPE 1
    

    That picks the proper offset and gain definitions in Configuration_adv.h:

    // The AD849[4567] has 5 mv/C gain, half that of the AD595, and requires _GAIN = 2
    
    #if TCOUPLE_AMP_TYPE == 1
      #define TEMP_SENSOR_AD595_OFFSET 0.0
      #define TEMP_SENSOR_AD595_GAIN   2.0
    #else
      #define TEMP_SENSOR_AD595_OFFSET 0.0
      #define TEMP_SENSOR_AD595_GAIN   1.0
    #endif
    

    With those in hand, these temperature sensor selections in Configuration.h will work:

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1
    

    I tweaked the temperature limits and preheat settings; the absolute minimum temperatures are now 10 °C, although I have not verified that a disconnected thermocouple or thermistor will actually trip that limit.

    Given the completely arbitrary stepper motor wiring connections, I set all the direction inversions to false and then swapped wires to make the motors turn in the proper direction.

    I enabled EEPROM_SETTINGS, but haven’t verified that values can actually store and recall themselves.

    The XYZ=0 origin is in the middle of the platform, just where I like it, but that will require some fine tuning:

    // Travel limits after homing
    #define X_MAX_POS 55
    #define X_MIN_POS -50
    #define Y_MAX_POS 60
    #define Y_MIN_POS -60
    #define Z_MAX_POS 120
    #define Z_MIN_POS 0
    

    I think it’s possible to use the Z_SAFE_HOMING position to force Z-minimum homing on the platform height switch I built for the original firmware, but that operation also seems to be tied in with the three-point auto-leveling firmware and rotating switch assembly. Right now, the firmware homes to the Z-max switch as a stock Thing-O-Matic should, but I’ve never liked that arrangement; don’t start with me, you know how I get.

    I backed the speeds and accelerations down from the values I’d been using, mostly because the driver hardware and currents are different:

    // Computing steps/mm
    // for XY = (motor steps/rev * microstepping) / (pulley teeth * tooth pitch)
    // for  Z = (motor steps/rev * microstepping) / (screw lead) // for  E = (motor steps/rev * microstepping) / (gear ratio * drive circumference) //  make sure ratios use floating point to avoid integer division!
    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {(200*16)/(17*2.0), (200*16)/(17*2.0), (200*8)/8.0, (200*4)/((7*30.23)/51)}
    #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {5000/60, 5000/60, 1500/60, 4000/60}    // (mm/sec)
    #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {5000, 2500, 1000, 250}    // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.
    
    #define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          10000   // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
    #define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  10000   // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts
    
    

    I’m not sure how to calculate the “jerk” settings, but taken as the maximum un-accelerated speed, these seem conservative:

    // The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instantaneously)
    #define DEFAULT_XYJERK                25    // (mm/sec)
    #define DEFAULT_ZJERK                 5    // (mm/sec)
    #define DEFAULT_EJERK                 5     // (mm/sec)
    

    More tuning is in order; that should at least start it up.

  • Ubuntu 10.04LTS vs Foxconn D510 NIC: FAIL

    For some unknown reason, one of the very rare updates to the Ubuntu 10.04 LTS infrastructure (for LinuxCNC 2.5.3 on my Foxconn D510 box, driving the Sherline mill) stopped supporting the system board’s built-in NIC: networking stopped working. The only symptom was that the NIC didn’t respond and all the usual tricks were unproductive.

    After some fruitless searching, I took the easy way out:

    NIC added to Foxconn D510 PC
    NIC added to Foxconn D510 PC

    That’s the backside of an ancient NIC using the classic Tulip driver. It used to have a full-size bracket, which I chopped off, bent, and filed to suit, much as with that one in the D525.

    Fired it up, the kernel automagically picked the proper driver, and networking Just Worked again.

    There. Fixed that…

  • Thing-o-Matic 286 Conversion

    A few months ago I fired the Thing-O-Matic, only to have it wake up dead. Not exactly dead, but spitting out checksum errors on simple G-Code files sent from Pronterface, which used to work just fine. Trying a bit of this-and-that to no avail, I proposed to The Mighty Thor that I could loan the carcass to Squidwrench, reanimate it with a less bizarre set of hardware and firmware than the much-hacked Makerbot menagerie under the hood, and use it as an exemplar in my 3D Printing classes.

    Fortunately, that particular Thing-O-Matic has the most well-documented hardware evah

    Matt suggested an Azteeg X3 controller, because it has thermocouple inputs that match the existing sensor, Thor ordered one, and I tinkered up a first-pass version of Marlin that could read the inputs and twiddle the motors. The firmware is on Github, not that you’ll need it for anything you’re doing; more on that later.

    Here’s the Official Doc for the microstepping jumpers hidden under the driver boards:

    Azteeg X3 - microstep jumpers
    Azteeg X3 – microstep jumpers

    That’s XYZE = 16 16 8 4, respectively, with a spare slot (and spare driver, not installed) for the second extruder it’ll never have.

    A first pass at setting the motor currents

    The extruder’s Type K thermocouple connects to the TC1 port on the shield, exactly reversed from the way you see the test thermocouple there: the red lead is to the left, the yellow lead is to the right. If you get it backwards, the indicated temperature goes down when you touch the bead. The printer’s thermocouple has some backstory.

    The 10 kΩ thermistor bead connects to the BED port on the main board and isn’t polarized. The Heated Build Platform has a bit of backstory, too.

    The gutted TOM286 carcass with the MBI hardware off to the side:

    TOM286 - gutted electronics bay
    TOM286 – gutted electronics bay

    After a few sessions, it looked pretty cheerful again:

    TOM286 - reborn at Squidwrench
    TOM286 – reborn at Squidwrench

    The penguin duct tape adds a festive flair, don’t you agree?

    This is what you see when looking down through the acrylic baseplate:

    Azteeg X3 - inside TOM286
    Azteeg X3 – inside TOM286

    The blurry silver rectangle off to the left is an aluminum channel glommed to bottom of the acrylic baseplate with silicone snot to eliminate a nasty mechanical resonance.

    The thermal cutout circuitry isn’t wired in yet; the ATX power supply has its -Power-On pin hotwired to the adjacent ground pin for now. The X3 gets its power directly from the +12 V supply, so there doesn’t seem to be any way to power the X3 from the +5 V Standby ouput, deliver +12 V to the motors, and switch the supply through the X3’s ATX output pin.

    The heaters work fine, the motors turn properly, and the extruder feeds molten plastic; all the motor calibrations seem to be pretty close. The first test object was a total botch, of course, but the printer’s parts seem to work OK again.

    Next step: calibration!

  • Free Motion Quilting Darning Foot Modification: The Home Shop Way

    Mary has been learning free motion quilting, which uses a special sewing-machine foot that holds the fabric in place. Leah Day describes modifying a standard darning foot, but I suggested deploying a bit more shop-fu to do it right. The notion of “adjusting” something with a twisted rubber band just made my skin crawl…

    The starting point is a Brewer BP1814 “FOOT Darning/Quilting low shank with clear base”, two of which appear next to an older version that she’s had for quite some time. The rightmost one has my modifications:

    Brewer BP1814 Quilting Foot - assortment
    Brewer BP1814 Quilting Foot – assortment

    The older (mostly metal) foot works much better for its intended purpose, but the newer white plastic version seems easier to modify for free-motion quilting. The older spring is much softer than the new ones, for whatever that’s worth. After the modification, the spring pressure becomes largely irrelevant, as it only acts when something pushes up on the base.

    The first modification improves visibility by cutting out part of the transparent plastic base. Leah suggests chopping it with a diagonal cutter (“jewelry clippers”), but I deployed a slitting saw in the Dremel tool at low speed to avoid melting. Mary wanted angled cuts, so that’s what she got:

    Modified Darning Foot - opened base
    Modified Darning Foot – opened base

    A bit of touchup with a fine file smoothed out the edges so the base slides easily over the fabric. There’s no way to remove the red guide lines; the un-modified foot on the left emerged from its bag with that smeared line.

    Then drive out the top metal pin with a small drift punch, hold the base and shaft, remove the C-clip, capture the spring, and extract the base and shaft. The 4.0 mm diameter metal shaft cries out to be threaded, so that’s what I did; this picture shows the reassembled shaft and spring:

    Modified Darning Foot - threaded shaft
    Modified Darning Foot – threaded shaft

    That’s significantly harder to accomplish than it looks, because there’s no practical way to remove the plastic base (it’s pinned in place, but one side of the cross-hole is blocked). I filed the end of the shaft to a taper that started the M4.0x0.7 die a bit more easily, clamped the shaft in the bench vise, applied nasty sulfur-based tapping fluid, crossed my fingers and eyes, held my nose, and managed to make it happen without cracking the plastic.

    I reamed out the Nyloc nut with a hand-twisted series of drills, through about #24 = 3.861 mm, to reduce the locking torque. It’s now just slightly more than finger-tight, which should suffice.

    In use, the foot fits under the sewing machine’s arm and puts the nut where fingers can’t reach. I filed a 6.0 mm “precision wrench” to fit the 6.8 mm nut flats and it’s All Good:

    Modified Darning Foot - assembled with wrench
    Modified Darning Foot – assembled with wrench

    A staged photo op atop some trial quilting:

    Modified Darning Foot - in action
    Modified Darning Foot – in action

    With a Nyloc nut instead of a rubber band, it will stay exactly where she wants it…

  • FC1002 Frequency Counter Battery Pack

    The main reason for taking the FC1002 frequency counter apart was to replace the failed quad-AA NiCd battery pack. Rather than buy new cells with tabs, I recycled some low-discharge “ready to use” NiMH cells from the heap. Back in 2009, they looked like this:

    Tenergy RTU Pack A Tests - Aug 2009
    Tenergy RTU Pack A Tests – Aug 2009

    Nowadays, they’re a bit less peppy:

    Tenergy RTU - 2014-01 - loose cells
    Tenergy RTU – 2014-01 – loose cells

    The red blooper shows that you can’t trust a smart fast charger to get the right answer; it concluded that pair was fully charged. After the discharge test and an overnight C/10 charge, they regained as much enthusiasm as they’ll ever have.

    They have slightly less capacity than in 2009 and also a somewhat lower terminal voltage. That shouldn’t matter here, as the frequency meter has a power supply to take care of that problem.

    Although I’ve sometimes been able to (quickly!) solder directly to ordinary AA cells, a trial run on a defunct RTU cell showed that wasn’t going to work on whatever variety of steel they used, no matter how much I scuffed it and despite using aggressive flux that normally blends silver solder onto stainless steel.

    Fortunately, the top half of a four cell case fit exactly in the space available, so I used woven copper fabric tape inside the case to interconnect the cells, then lashed everything together with the obligatory Kapton tape:

    FC1002 Frequency Counter - battery pack
    FC1002 Frequency Counter – battery pack

    That cracked faceplate isn’t the nicest thing to confront, but it’ll suffice until I get more motivation:

    FC1002 Frequency Counter - repaired
    FC1002 Frequency Counter – repaired

    I’ve misplaced my stack of Round Tuits again…

  • Toyota Sienna: Key Wear

    And it came to pass in the Christmas Season that our ignition keys began jamming in the lock, rather than just starting the van. It seems Toyota used split wafers in their locks up through the early part of this millennium, with the result that the delicate wafer edges tend to wear out both themselves and the edges of the keys.

    I can’t vouch for the wafers, but the keys definitely aren’t in good shape:

    Ignition keys - worn vs new
    Ignition keys – worn vs new

    Given that picture, someone can probably conjure up a shiny new key and drive away with our 14-year-old Sienna van. It just rolled over 90 k miles and is in pretty good condition. New battery and hood prop pivot, too.

    Being that type of guy, the first thing I did with the new van was to get duplicate keys and drop the OEM keys into the “2000 Sienna” file folder. The middle key in that photo has had maybe a dozen uses and is in pristine condition.

    Rumor has it that one can cannibalize a set of split wafers from the glove box lock:

    Glove box latch
    Glove box latch

    Or, according to different sources, you can simply discard the split wafers and be done with it.

    The trick to removing the lock cylinder lies in turning the key to the Accessory position, then poking a pointy object into a small hole to depress an internal spring-loaded pin. Of course, one must disable the air bags, dismantle the steering wheel, and remove half a dozen trim panels to reveal the small hole.

    Fortunately, the two “new” keys from the file folder work perfectly and we’ll run with them for a while. I suppose I should get another set of duplicates, but …