The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Herringbone Pinion Gears

    These herringbone gears were part of updating my old Thing-O-Matic:

    Herringbone gears with nut inserts
    Herringbone gears with nut inserts

    But, as the saying goes, that’s not a herringbone gear. This is a herringbone gear:

    Bethlehem Steel - 48 inch rolling mill gears
    Bethlehem Steel – 48 inch rolling mill gears

    We always read the signage:

    Bethlehem Steel - 48 inch rolling mill gears - description
    Bethlehem Steel – 48 inch rolling mill gears – description

    They’re parked in front of the National Museum of Industrial History in Bethlehem, PA.

  • Park Spoke Tension Meter vs. 20 inch Wheel Spokes

    Obviously, the good folks at Park Tool never anticipated a three-cross spoke pattern on a 20 inch wheel:

    Park Tool Spoke Tension Meter vs 406 wheel
    Park Tool Spoke Tension Meter vs 406 wheel

    It’s my trusty Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter, unchanged since shortly after the turn of the millennium.

    For future reference, the rebuilt wheel spoke tensions came out around 25, slightly lower than the 27-ish I measured on Mary’s bike; it didn’t occur to me to measure the tension until after I’d relaxed the spokes. I’ll ride it for a while before doing any tweakage.

    The spoke pattern is pretty close to four-cross, due to the large-flange Phil Wood hubs:

    Tour Easy Front Spoke Pattern
    Tour Easy Front Spoke Pattern

    Which makes for a hella-strong wheel, particularly seeing as how it’s very lightly loaded. The Tour Easy we got for our lass came with a radially spoked rim around a Phil hub.

    I transferred the hub and laced spokes intact to the new rim by the simple expedient of duct-taping the spokes into platters, removing the nipples, stacking the rims, sliding the spokes across into their new homes, reinstalling the nipples, then tightening as usual.

  • Presta Valve to Schraeder Hole Adapter

    The front rim on my Tour Easy developed a distinct bulge, of the sort usually caused by ramming something, but I’m not Danny McAskell and the bulge got worse over the course of a few weeks, suggesting the rim was deforming under tire pressure. Having ridden it upwards of 35 k miles with plenty of trailer towing and too much crushed-stone trail riding, the brake tracks were badly worn and it’s time for a new rim.

    An Amazon seller had an identical (!) rim, except for the minor difference of having a hole sized for a Schraeder valve stem, rather than the Presta valves on the original rims. One can buy adapters / grommets, but what’s the fun in that?

    The brake track walls are 1.5 mm thick on the new rim and a scant 1.0 mm on the old rim, so, yeah, it’s worn.

    A few measurements to get started (and for future reference):

    Presta to Schraeder Adapter - dimension doodle
    Presta to Schraeder Adapter – dimension doodle

    If you don’t have an A drill, a 15/64 inch drill is only half a mil larger and, sheesh, anything close will be fine.

    Introduce a suitable brass rod to Mr Lathe:

    Presta-Schraeder Adapter - parting off
    Presta-Schraeder Adapter – parting off

    Break all the edges and drop it in place:

    Presta-Schraeder Adapter - installed
    Presta-Schraeder Adapter – installed

    One could argue for swaging the adapter to fit flush against the curved rim, but commercial adapters don’t bother with such refinements and neither shall I.

    The 7.0 mm length got shortened to fit flush with the center of the rim:

    Presta-Schraeder Adapter - valve stem installed
    Presta-Schraeder Adapter – valve stem installed

    It’s brass, because the rim is heaviest on the far side where the steel pins splicing the ends live, and, with the tube & tire installed, the rim came out almost perfectly balanced. Which makes essentially no difference whatsoever, of course.

    The shiny new rim sports shiny new reflector tape (from the same stockpile, of course).

    That was easy …

  • Monthly Science: Cheese Slicer Epoxy Coating vs. Water

    Ten months ago, I cleaned the corrosion off our favorite cheese slicer:

    Cheese slicer - aluminum corrosion
    Cheese slicer – aluminum corrosion

    After cleaning, I coated it with XTC-3D epoxy:

    Cheese Slicer - epoxy coat - detail
    Cheese Slicer – epoxy coat – detail

    We’ve been using it daily ever since and it spends most of its life drip-drying in the dish drainer. I added a third opening to the cheerful orange measuring spoon holder just for the slicer.

    A few weeks ago I noticed corrosion once again growing on the handle:

    Cheese Slicer - epoxy coat - corrosion - detail
    Cheese Slicer – epoxy coat – corrosion – detail

    I think the rot comes from water diffusing through the epoxy, rather than gross leaks through damage or pinholes. The tip of the handle has the most corrosion, probably due to the water drop hanging there, even though it also has the thickest epoxy coating: it cured with the handle pointing downward.

    Verily, rust never sleeps …

  • Bathroom Sink Drain: Epoxy Touchup

    The glaring white ring around the drain comes from Magic Porcelain Chip Fix epoxy:

    Bathroom Sink Drain - Epoxy fill
    Bathroom Sink Drain – Epoxy fill

    What looks like a blob on the left side covers the missing chip, with the rest of the ring filled in to make it look like I knew what I was doing. The drain dried out while we were on vacation, having been scrubbed clean before we left, making for the best surface preparation I could provide.

    As it turns out, our resident iron bacteria took about a week to set up shop along the bottom of the ring, producing a pair of small rust-colored dots that will inevitably spread to encompass the whole thing. They’re endemic in the plumbing, impossible to kill off, and nothing more than an unsightly nuisance.

  • Tour Easy Daytime Running Light: 18650 Cell Extraction Tab

    The running lights on our Tour Easy fairing sit just about perfectly level, despite how they appear in relation to the fairing edge:

    Flashlight Mount - LC40 - finger ball - side
    Flashlight Mount – LC40 – finger ball – side

    And, because they’re firmly attached to the fairing mount, there’s no way to tilt them to extract the 18650 cell.

    This took entirely too long to figure out:

    Lithium 18650 Cell Extractor Tab
    Lithium 18650 Cell Extractor Tab

    The LC40 end caps have a recess exactly where it’ll do the most good: capturing the tab inside the cap means it can’t interfere with the rear contact spring:

    Lithium 18650 Cell Extractor Tab - Anker LC40
    Lithium 18650 Cell Extractor Tab – Anker LC40

    Swapping cells no longer requires muttering!

  • Rubber Soaker Hose Repair

    A soaker hose leaped under a descending garden fork and accumulated a nasty gash:

    Soaker Hose Splice - gashed
    Soaker Hose Splice – gashed

    Mary deployed a spare and continued the mission, while I pondered how to fix such an odd shape.

    For lack of anything smarter, I decided to put a form-fitting clamp around the hose, with silicone caulk buttered around the gash to (ideally) slow down any leakage:

    Soaker Hose Splice - Solid Model - Assembled
    Soaker Hose Splice – Solid Model – Assembled

    As usual, some doodling got the solid model started:

    Soaker Hose Splice - Dimension doodle 1
    Soaker Hose Splice – Dimension doodle 1

    A hose formed from chopped rubber doesn’t really have consistent dimensions, so I set up the model to spit out small test pieces:

    Soaker Hose Splice - Test Fit - Slic3r
    Soaker Hose Splice – Test Fit – Slic3r

    Lots and lots of test pieces:

    Soaker Hose Splice - test pieces
    Soaker Hose Splice – test pieces

    Each iteration produced a better fit, although the dimensions never really converged:

    Soaker Hose Splice - Dimension doodle 2
    Soaker Hose Splice – Dimension doodle 2

    The overall model looks about like you’d expect:

    Soaker Hose Splice - Complete - Slic3r
    Soaker Hose Splice – Complete – Slic3r

    The clamp must hold its shape around a hose carrying 100 psi (for real!) water, so I put 100 mil aluminum backing plates on either side. Were you doing this for real, you’d shape the plates with a CNC mill, but I just bandsawed them to about the right size and transfer-punched the hole positions:

    Soaker Hose Splice - plate transfer punch
    Soaker Hose Splice – plate transfer punch

    Some drill press action with a slightly oversize drill compensated for any misalignment and Mr Disk Sander rounded the corners to match the plastic block:

    Soaker Hose Splice - plate corner rounding
    Soaker Hose Splice – plate corner rounding

    A handful of stainless steel 8-32 screws holds the whole mess together:

    Soaker Hose Splice - installed
    Soaker Hose Splice – installed

    These hoses spend their lives at rest under a layer of mulch, so I’m ignoring the entire problem of stress relief at those sharp block edges. We’ll see how this plays out in real life, probably next year.

    I haven’t tested it under pressure, but it sure looks capable!

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Rubber Soaker Hose Splice
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU July 2018
    Layout = "Build"; // Hose Block Show Build
    TestFit = false; // true to build test fit slice from center
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    inch = 25.4;
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    //———-
    // Dimensions
    // Hose lies along X axis
    Hose = [200,27.0,12.0]; // X = longer than anything else
    Block = [80.0,50.0,4.0 + Hose.z]; // overall splice block size
    echo(str("Block: ",Block));
    Kerf = 0.1; // cut through middle to apply compression
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    // 8-32 stainless screws
    Screw = [4.1,8.0,3.0]; // OD = head LENGTH = head thickness
    Washer = [4.4,9.5,1.0];
    Nut = [4.1,9.7,6.0];
    CornerRadius = Washer[OD]/2;
    NumScrews = 3; // screws along each side of cable
    ScrewOC = [(Block.x – 2*CornerRadius) / (NumScrews – 1),
    Block.y – 2*CornerRadius,
    2*Block.z // ensure complete holes
    ];
    echo(str("Screw OC: x=",ScrewOC.x," y=",ScrewOC.y));
    //———————-
    // Useful routines
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    cylinder(d=(FixDia + HoleWindage),h=Height,$fn=Sides);
    }
    // Hose shape
    // This includes magic numbers measured from reality
    module HoseProfile() {
    RimThick = 10.0; // outer sections
    RimOD = RimThick;
    RimFlatRecess = -0.7; // recess to front flat surface
    OuterOC = Hose.y – RimOD; // outer tube centers
    RecessM = 1.5; // back recess chord
    RecessC = OuterOC;
    RecessR = (pow(RecessM,2) + pow(RecessC,2)/4) / (2*RecessM);
    RidgeM = 1.0; // front ridge chord
    RidgeC = 8.0;
    RidgeR = (pow(RidgeM,2) + pow(RidgeC,2)/4) / (2*RidgeM);
    NumSides = 12*4;
    rotate([0,-90,0])
    translate([0,0,-Hose.x/2])
    linear_extrude(height=Hose.x,convexity=4)
    difference() {
    union() {
    for (j=[-1,1]) // outer channels
    translate([0,j*OuterOC/2])
    circle(d=RimOD,$fn=NumSides);
    translate([-RimOD/4,0]) // rear flat fill
    square([RimOD/2,OuterOC],center=true);
    translate([(RimOD/4 + RimFlatRecess),0]) // front flat fill
    square([RimOD/2,OuterOC],center=true);
    intersection() {
    translate([Hose.z/2,0])
    square([Hose.z,OuterOC],center=true);
    translate([-RidgeR + RimOD/2 + RimFlatRecess + RidgeM,0])
    circle(r=RidgeR,$fn=NumSides);
    }
    }
    translate([-(RecessR + RimOD/2 – RecessM),0])
    circle(r=RecessR,$fn=2*NumSides);
    }
    }
    // Outside shape of splice Block
    // Z centered on hose rim circles, not overall thickness through center ridge
    module SpliceBlock() {
    difference() {
    hull()
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1]) // rounded block
    translate([i*(Block.x/2 – CornerRadius),j*(Block.y/2 – CornerRadius),-Block.z/2])
    cylinder(r=CornerRadius,h=Block.z,$fn=4*8);
    for (i = [0:NumScrews – 1], j=[-1,1]) // screw holes
    translate([-(Block.x/2 – CornerRadius) + i*ScrewOC.x,
    j*ScrewOC.y/2,
    -(Block.z/2 + Protrusion)])
    PolyCyl(Screw[ID],Block.z + 2*Protrusion,6);
    cube([2*Block.x,2*Block.y,Kerf],center=true); // slice through center
    }
    }
    // Splice block less hose
    module ShapedBlock() {
    difference() {
    SpliceBlock();
    HoseProfile();
    }
    }
    //———-
    // Build them
    if (Layout == "Hose")
    HoseProfile();
    if (Layout == "Block")
    SpliceBlock();
    if (Layout == "Bottom")
    BottomPlate();
    if (Layout == "Top")
    TopPlate();
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    difference() {
    SpliceBlock();
    HoseProfile();
    }
    color("Green",0.25)
    HoseProfile();
    }
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    SliceOffset = TestFit && !NumScrews%2 ? ScrewOC.x/2 : 0;
    intersection() {
    translate([SliceOffset,0,Block.z/4])
    if (TestFit)
    cube([ScrewOC.x/2,4*Block.y,Block.z/2],center=true);
    else
    cube([4*Block.x,4*Block.y,Block.z/2],center=true);
    union() {
    translate([0,0.6*Block.y,Block.z/2])
    ShapedBlock();
    translate([0,-0.6*Block.y,Block.z/2])
    rotate([0,180,0])
    ShapedBlock();
    }
    }
    }