Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
As you might expect, the cable saws through the side of its ferrule and the brazed-on frame fitting, because it’s been basically impossible (for me, anyhow) to find a replacement derailleur duplicating whatever the good folks at Easy Racers shipped back in 2001.
On the upside, this derailleur’s cable entry has a nicely rounded ramp eliminating the need for my brass cable pulley widget.
Memo to Self: Perhaps running the cable around a bearing anchored to the frame fitting would help?
I’ve obviously forgotten to fix this for several years, so putting it here may serve as a Round Tuit.
When they happened, I knew where to look, because the Kevlar-belted Primo Comet had two conspicuous bulges surrounding debris jammed between the tread and the carcass along the sidewall: the gashes were wide open!
Much to my astonishment, the tire hadn’t gone instantly flat.
Some screwdriver probing in the leftmost gash produced this nasty glass chip:
Primo Comet gash – chip side view
AFAICT, the smooth side slid over the internal Kevlar belt as the edge sliced between the rubber tread and the carcass. I think the top entered first, with the somewhat crushed end hitting the pavement on each revolution:
Primo Comet gash – chip edge view
The other gash emitted a somewhat smaller chip.
I rode over something crunchy, most likely the remains of a beer bottle, in a shaded section along Rt 376, and we stopped a few driveways later to diagnose a once-per-revolution thump from the front tire. The tube still wasn’t losing pressure, even after extracting the glass, so I continued the mission; it was a fine day for a ride!
I later filled those gashes (plus a few others) with silicone rubber to keep grit out. It’s surely a feel-good gesture, but maybe it’ll help the tire reach the end of its tread life.
You can judge our “riding environment” by the tire’s condition …
For whatever reason, my SiglentSDS2304X Oscilloscope and SDM3045X Multimeter partially implement their documented command sets through partial implementations of the VXI instrumentation driver network protocol. The Linux command-line side comes from lxi-tools, which one must fetch from its repository and compile from source(do liblxi first, then lxi-tools) through the usual ./configure - make - sudo make install process, after tediously installing whatever dependencies might be revealed by incremental progress through the configuration(s) on your system(s).
The alternative, of course, is Labview on Windows.
The SDS2304X scope doesn’t respond to the LXI discover broadcast, so you must know and specify its IP address in the command. It’s easiest to configure the Siglent instruments at fixed IP addresses and be done with it:
lxi scpi -a 192.168.1.41 "*idn?"
Siglent Technologies,SDM3045X,SDM34whatever,5.01.01.03
lxi scpi -a 192.168.1.42 "*idn?"
*IDN SIGLENT,SDS2304X,SDS2Xwhatever,1.2.2.2 R10
Although the LXI tools also come in a Snap package, installing them that way prevents storing files outside the user’s home directory; having evolved a fairly extensive NFS filesystem, Snaps seem basically useless for my purposes. I don’t see much more security exposure from downloading and running a Snap than from downloading, compiling, and running the source code, but they obviously know what’s best for me.
For the record, a 5/8 inch socket works fine. One could surely use a 16 mm socket in a pinch.
Wear leather gloves to prevent a nasty gash from the stamped-steel muffler shroud as you pull the sparkle plug cap to avoid an absolutely impossible engine startup while you’re wrenching under the deck.
The back tire on my bike was flat when I rolled it out for a ride (the day after replacing the front shifter cable), which ought not be possible with a Michelin Protek Max tube inside. On the other paw, we’ve had zero flats in the not quite two years since installing the things, which says they’re doing very well, and I’ll take a flat in the garage over a flat on the road any day.
With the bike up on the stand, I didn’t spot the expected large glass chip or sharp wire, but I did find three smaller gashes:
Bike tire tread gashes – composite – 2017-05-13
… from which I extracted two small glass shards. Perhaps a wee puncture spent four days parked at the top of the wheel, with the ProTek’s internal goop drained away and unable to plug the slow leak.
Having spun the tire a few times while looking for trouble, I pumped it back up to 80 psi. After delaying the ride for half an hour, the tire pressure remained constant, and we enjoyed a fine ride around the block.
Because I’m writing this in the future, I know it’ll hold pressure just fine, which means I can declare victory and move on.
The tube & tire weigh more than some frames, but they’re worth it!
The rear shifter on my Tour Easy stopped working when we were most of the way to the grocery store, due to what turned out to be due to a broken cable. I managed to yank the frayed end out of the shifter, pulled the derailleur into a middling gear, and belayed the cable into a deadly cactus:
SRAM X.9 Rear Shifter – frayed cable
A three-speed recumbent got me home again, albeit with spin-it-out high gear and a low gear barely sufficient for trailer hauling.
Attempting to remove the frayed cable from the SRAM X.9 grip shifter didn’t go well at all:
SRAM X.9 Rear Shifter – cable tangle
I managed to extract the lead pellet, but, while it may be possible to extract the remaining tangle, even pulling on individual wires wasn’t productive.
AFAICT, the shifter came as original equipment on the bike, so it’s been in constant use for the last 17-ish years. The nice soft grip material (and the cover over the cable port) turned into gummy sludge under the cheerful silicone tape I applied some years ago, so I sliced the old grip and pulled it off:
SRAM X.9 Rear Shifter – gummified grip
Popping a new-old-stock X.9 shifter from the Big Box o’ Bike Parts and installing it proceeded without problems. This being the rear shifter, I had to remove the shiny OEM cable and replace it with a PTFE-coated tandem-length rear cable, but that’s normal for a long wheelbase recumbent.
For the record, both black shift indicator tabs still show no signs of failing after half a year, so a bent piece of polypropylene sheet looks like a win.
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The overall XY travel is slightly smaller than the initial configuration, because the router sticks out further than the penholder I’d been using. Increasing the $27 Homing Pulloff distance to 3 mm leaves a comfortable space beyond the limit switches after homing to the positive end:
MPCNC – X-axis endstop – home
Adjusting the $13[01] XY travel distances and switch positions on the other end of the rail leaves a similar comfort zone at the negative end:
MPCNC – X-axis endstop – X min
Both switches now live on the rear X-axis rail and appear as seen from behind the bench; they just look backwards. The Y-axis switches are on the left rail and look exactly the same.
The XY travel works out to 630 × 460 mm = 24.8 × 18.1 inch, which is Good Enough.
Some fiddling with the Z axis limit switch tape mask produces a nice round 100 mm = 3.9 inch vertical travel. The Z-axis rails just barely clear the table at the lower limit and just barely stay in the bottom bearings at the upper limit, so it’s a near thing. In practical terms, the rails or the tool will smash into the workpiece sitting atop the table before the limit switch trips.
Setting both $20=1 Soft Limits and $21=1 Hard Limits may be excessive, but I vastly prefer having the firmware detect out-of-range moves and the hardware forcibly shut down if the firmware loses track of its position, rather than letting it grind away until I can slap the BRS. The steppers aren’t powerful enough to damage anything, of course, so it’s a matter of principle.
The $N1=G10L2P1X-633Y-463Z-3 sets the default G54 coordinate origin to the front-left corner, with Z=0 at the home position up top, so as to prevent surprises. I expect to use G55 for most work holder touchoffs, although we’ll see how that plays out.
The G28 and G30 settings depend on the tool change location and the Z-axis probe location, so they’re still not cast in concrete.
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning 