The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Home Ec

Things around the home & hearth

  • Monthly Image: Wall Painting

    One day, long ago, this tree grew in a certain bedroom:

    Outlet tree
    Outlet tree

    And then a flower appeared in the laundry room:

    Outlet flower
    Outlet flower

    Much to our delight, she asked for forgiveness, not permission … which was, of course, granted immediately.

  • Desk Drawer Stops

    The stops aligning the top two drawers of an old desk vanished, so I got the job of replacing them. They’re hammered into the wood frame:

    Drawer Stops - width measurement
    Drawer Stops – width measurement

    And stand up just enough to engage the back of the drawer face:

    Drawer Stops - height measurement
    Drawer Stops – height measurement

    Back in the Basement Laboratory Shop Wing, I harvested steel strips from a defunct PC case, rubber-hammered them flat, sharpened a cold chisel (un-hardened, so it always needs sharpening), and got to work:

    Drawer Stops - chiseled blanks
    Drawer Stops – chiseled blanks

    The pointy sides should have sharp edges, which you get for free with a chisel. You also get a bench full of little steel slivers perfectly suited for embedding in human flesh. Wearing eye protection is more than just a good idea, too.

    Introducing what will become the visible edges to Mr Disk Sander makes them marginally less hazardous:

    Drawer Stops - in progress
    Drawer Stops – in progress

    A slightly fuzzy picture of a test fit shows the stops should suffice:

    Drawer Stops - trial fit
    Drawer Stops – trial fit

    Which they did:

    Drawer Stops - installed
    Drawer Stops – installed

    Nobody will ever notice the blob of hot melt glue behind each one:

    Drawer Stops - glue blob
    Drawer Stops – glue blob

    Done!

  • Six Gallon Can Lid Adapter to Platform Bird Feeder

    A House Finch suffering from Finch Eye Disease prompted me to sterilize our feeder, which meant providing a temporary feeder to keep the birds flying. Having an abundance of lids from six gallon plastic cans / buckets, this made sense:

    Can Lid Feeder - installed
    Can Lid Feeder – installed

    Which required an adapter betwixt pole and lid:

    Can Lid Feeder - assembled
    Can Lid Feeder – assembled

    Which requires a bit of solid modeling:

    Can Lid Platform Feeder Mount - solid model - bottom
    Can Lid Platform Feeder Mount – solid model – bottom

    The lids have a central boss, presumably for stiffening, so the model includes a suitable recess:

    Can Lid Platform Feeder Mount - solid model - support structure
    Can Lid Platform Feeder Mount – solid model – support structure

    As usual, automatically generated support fills the entire recess, so I designed a minimal support structure into the model and cracked it out with very little effort:

    Can Lid Feeder - support structure
    Can Lid Feeder – support structure

    The tangle off to the right comes from a bridge layer with a hole in the middle, which never works well even with support:

    Can Lid Platform Feeder Mount - Slic3r - bridge layer
    Can Lid Platform Feeder Mount – Slic3r – bridge layer

    Didn’t bother the birds in the least, though, so it’s all good.

    I loves me my 3D printer …

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Adapter from steel pole to 5 gallon plastic can lid
    // Turns the lid into a improvised platform feeder
    // Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU – 2018-11
    Layout = "Build"; // Show Build
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    // Sizes
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    Wall = 10; // minimum thickness or width for anything
    Boss = [15,50,9]; // central boss on lie
    Flange = [50,110,Boss[LENGTH] + Wall];
    echo(Boss);
    echo(Flange);
    Pole = [(23.5 + 4*HoleWindage),26,45]; // small end of steel pole
    Screw = [5.0,8.0,25.0]; // 5 mm or 10-32
    ScrewOC = 80; // lid mounting screws
    NumScrews = 3;
    NumSides = NumScrews*2*4;
    $fn = NumSides;
    //———————-
    // Useful routines
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
    }
    //———————-
    // Build it
    module Bracket() {
    difference() {
    union() {
    rotate(180/(NumSides/2)) {
    cylinder(d=Flange[OD],h=Flange[LENGTH],$fn=NumSides/2); // fewer sides is OK
    cylinder(d=Pole[OD] + 2*Wall,h=Pole[LENGTH] + Flange[LENGTH],$fn=NumSides/2);
    }
    }
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    rotate(180/NumSides)
    cylinder(d=Boss[OD],h=Boss[LENGTH] + Protrusion,$fn=NumSides);
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    rotate(180/NumSides)
    cylinder(d=Pole[ID],h=2*(Pole[LENGTH] + Flange[LENGTH]),$fn=NumSides);
    for (i=[0:NumScrews-1])
    rotate(i*(360/NumScrews))
    translate([ScrewOC/2,0,-Protrusion])
    PolyCyl(Screw[ID],2*Flange[LENGTH],6);
    }
    }
    module Support() {
    NumRibs = NumSides/2;
    Rib = [0.95*(Boss[OD] – Pole[ID])/2,2*ThreadWidth,Boss[LENGTH] – ThreadThick];
    color("Yellow") {
    for (i=[0:NumRibs-1]) {
    a = i*360/NumRibs;
    rotate(a)
    translate([Pole[ID]/2 + Rib.x/2,0,Rib.z/2])
    cube(Rib,center=true);
    }
    rotate(180/NumSides)
    difference() {
    cylinder(d=Pole[ID] + 10*ThreadWidth,h=1*ThreadThick,$fn=NumSides);
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d=Pole[ID],h=Rib.z + 2*Protrusion,$fn=NumSides);
    }
    }
    }
    if (Layout == "Show")
    Bracket();
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    Bracket();
    Support();
    }
  • Sterling Table Knife Repair

    A sterling knife followed me home after a Thanksgiving gathering:

    Sterling knife repair - powdered cement
    Sterling knife repair – powdered cement

    The original cement, dating back to the middle of the last century, turned into friable dust around the blade tang:

    Sterling knife repair - handle socket
    Sterling knife repair – handle socket

    I cleaned it out as best I could, buttered JB Quik epoxy around the tang and into the socket, joined the two, and let it cure in the natural position:

    Sterling knife repair - curing
    Sterling knife repair – curing

    The rest of the knives in the set may need similar attention, but I’m not looking for trouble.

  • Halogen Desk Lamp Conversion

    As part of converting the halogen desk lamp to LEDs, I replaced the hulking iron transformer with a flatter counterweight:

    Halogen Desk Lamp - 12 V 20 W transformer
    Halogen Desk Lamp – 12 V 20 W transformer

    Under normal circumstances, you’d use something like steel or lead sheets, but Tiny Bandsaw™ can’t cut any appreciable thickness of steel and I gave away my entire lead stockpile, so I sawed disks from a pile of non-stick pancake griddles and drilled suitable mounting holes:

    Parallel clamps in action
    Parallel clamps in action

    Another disk (from a formal aluminum sheet!) goes into the lamp head, with a trio of 3W COB LEDs epoxied in place:

    Ex-Halogen Desk Lamp - 3x3W COB LED assembly
    Ex-Halogen Desk Lamp – 3x3W COB LED assembly

    The other side of the disk sports a heatsink harvested from a PC, also epoxied in place:

    Ex-halogen Desk Lamp - heatsink fitting
    Ex-halogen Desk Lamp – heatsink fitting

    Realizing the head required only a little filing to accommodate the heatsink sealed both their fates.

    A test firing showed the heatsink needed more airflow, which didn’t come as much of a surprise, so I milled slots in the lamp head:

    Ex-halogen Desk Lamp - vent slot milling
    Ex-halogen Desk Lamp – vent slot milling

    Deburring the holes, blackening the sides with a Sharpie, and tucking a bit of black window screen behind the opening made the vents look entirely professional.

    The small dome in the base originally cleared the transformer and now holds the entire 10 W LED driver, along with all the wiring, atop the counterweight sheets:

    Ex-halogen Desk Lamp - base wiring
    Ex-halogen Desk Lamp – base wiring

    A cork pad covers the base for a bit of non-skid action:

    Ex-halogen Desk Lamp - cork pad
    Ex-halogen Desk Lamp – cork pad

    I couldn’t convince myself filling in those sectors would improve anything, so I didn’t.

    And then It Just Worked:

    Ex-halogen Desk Lamp - in use
    Ex-halogen Desk Lamp – in use

    All without a trace of solid modeling or G-Code …

  • Ants in My Drawers

    Our Compact Edition of the OED doesn’t get much use these days, but Mary needed a magnifier for a class on quilt judging and the OED has one that seemed just about right:

    OED Magnifier Box in drawer
    OED Magnifier Box in drawer

    The magnifier comes in a removable box fitted neatly into the drawer, revealing a surprise underneath:

    OED Magnifier drawer - plastic ant
    OED Magnifier drawer – plastic ant

    A detail view:

    OED Magnifier drawer - plastic ant - detail
    OED Magnifier drawer – plastic ant – detail

    It’s a plastic ant from a bag in the Kiddie Surplus box my Shop Assistant grew up with and a pleasant reminder of long-ago days, carefully placed where only I’d ever see it.

    Of course, it’s still there …

  • Electrolux Vacuum Cleaner: Cord Protection

    The ancient (Came With The House™) Electrolux canister vacuum cleaner long ago lost the plastic bushing around the opening passing its retractable cord, which I’d long sworn to replace.  A recent trip around the Basement Laboratory paused near the recently relocated Box o’ Wire Loom & Braid, whereupon I snipped off a few inches of split loom and tucked it in place:

    Electrolux Vacuum - cushioned cord cutout
    Electrolux Vacuum – cushioned cord cutout

    Looks and works better than before, anyhow.

    The blue flap dangling off the back should latch over the exhaust port, but failed long ago when the latch tab eroded. I attempted a repair, which never worked quite right, and won’t get around to attempting another for quite a while.