Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
The outer suckers on the basket in the corner of the shower didn’t line up with the tiles; either tile dimensions have changed in the last half-century or it’s a hard-metric basket. It didn’t look right when I installed it (now that is a grandiose term if I’ve ever misused one), so (when the thing fell off and landed with a clatter a few days ago) I drilled two additional holes as far away from the corner as I could, using a step drill to prevent the plastic from shattering, and it’s all good.
Shower basket – redrilled
Sometimes, they’re easy…
You’ll note that I heroically resisted the urge to fire the Thing-O-Matic to print some kind of weird-ass safety-orange interposer plate, just because I could.
A week or so after I got my HP 49GX calculator, I managed to drop a vernier caliper on it. Interior points downward, of course, putting a nice divot on the non-glare plastic over the LCD panel.
A week or so after I got my HP 50g calculator, I applied a screen protector sheet harvested from the lifetime supply I bought for my original Zire 71, back in the day.
HP 50g calculator screen protector
The fact that it’s an almost perfect fit and that the calculator sports a monochrome LCD with lower resolution is a sad commentary on the state of the calculator art.
Taking that picture in low-angle full sunlight makes the protector sheet look awful. In actual use, it’s nearly invisible. Haven’t dropped anything on it yet, either.
And, yes, I did cut it out around the HP logo button in the upper right corner.
Well, that fix didn’t last nearly as long as I’d hope, although I must admit whacking the pitcher lid against the refrigerator door certainly hastened its demise.
So I found a suitable screw in the Tiny Box o’ Teeny Screws (in a sub-container of eyeglass repair screws), drilled a snug hole where the plastic pin used to be (entirely by hand on the drill press, feeding the lid into the drill), and snapped everything together again:
Brita pitcher lid hinge – screw
The remaining plastic pin had a fracture at its base, but I just glued it and will defer installing a screw until it finishes disintegrating. At some point we’re going to be forced to buy a new pitcher…
Although reading PDF documents on the shining screen works fine for some topics, I’d much rather curl up with a printed version for the first read-through. Adobe Reader’s print-as-booklet option does all the heavy lifting required to print a PDF document four pages to a single Letter-size sheet of paper, after which I do a little slicing & binding to get a nice comb-bound book.
So I printed out the entire EAGLE 6 manual (found in /wherever/eagle-6.1.0/doc/), which led to the discovery that page 86 is missing (at least in the 1st edition version). That screws up the pagination from page 87 onward: odd-numbered pages move to the left side of the binding, even-numbered pages to the right, and the blank space reserved for the gutter / binding appears on the outside margins. Fortunately, it’s still readable.
To avoid that problem, do this:
Print Range → Pages → [1-85,301,86-334]
That selects the first set of contiguous pages, jams a copy of a “This page has been left free intentionally” page from the back of the manual in place of the missing page 86, and then selects the rest of the book.
Print the front sides, flip the stack over, print the back sides (with the same page range), and bind as usual.
FWIW, this is much better than having the printer mis-feed about 3/4 of the way through the back sides, which it has done in the past while printing a big book. I now run off about 20 sheets at a time, with only that many pieces of paper in the feeder, just to make sure it doesn’t ruin the entire job.
One could, I suppose, use pdftk to shuffle the PDF into a complete file which would Just Work, but that seems like more trouble than it’s worth. Ditto for expecting CadSoft to re-create the PDF.
Memo to Self: Check the last page. If the logical page doesn’t match what’s shown on the PDF page, then something’s wrong.
After a decade of stacking the plates in the dishwasher the same way every time, the flexible coating over the steel rods has worn through:
Dishwasher rack abrasion
We can’t stack them the other way, because the rotor spray rattles them unmercifully, and a fix is in order. Apparently, one can purchase touchup paint for this very purpose, but what’s the fun in that? Besides, I’d expect it to wear through even faster than the original coating, if only because adhesion is never as good as you’d expect from reading the label.
So this little dingus fits around a vertical pin and rests atop the horizontal rod, with the edge of the plate nestled into the joint between the two cylinders:
Dishwasher rack protector – solid model
Being very small, they build best in large groups:
Dishwasher rack protectors – on build platform
The horizontal half-cylinders require internal support, shown here adjacent to the protector for easy viewing:
Dishwasher rack protector – support model
Those fins just barely clear the interior of the horizontal cylinder, so the two parts don’t bond together very well (that’s the ideal condition, of course). The flat plate glues the support fins firmly to the build platform, which is easier to see on these somewhat shorter prototypes with a layer or two of orange filament on their bottoms:
Dishwasher rack protectors – support
The support chops out neatly with a repurposed nail set punch:
Dishwasher rack protector – removing support
Actually, I stood each one vertically on an aluminum chunk, held the punch in place with finger pressure, and whacked it with a small brass hammer. The OpenSCAD code now adds a small tab each end to help align the punch for the first whack.
The rod (vertical) hole came out just about exactly the right size (admittedly, with a 0.4 mm HoleFinagle adjustment), but required a pass with a drill in a pin vise to clear out the Reversal Zittage. The result slides easily over undamaged pins, but some pins had rust at either the top or bottom that required a bit of cleanup. This is a trial fit:
Dishwasher rack protectors – trial fit
I put a blob of acrylic caulk on the abraded spots to (attempt to) seal them from further damage, then squished the protectors in place. The dishwasher demonstrated that it’s perfectly capable of blasting an unglued protector (without a plate) up and off the pin, ingesting it into the trash grinder, chewing it up, and spitting the pieces down the drain. Lost a couple of prototypes before I figured that out, too.
Ya learn something new every day…
The OpenSCAD source code:
// Dishwasher rack protector
// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU - Jan 2012
Layout = "Show"; // Show Build Support
Support = true; // true to add support inside rod half-cylinder
include </home/ed/Thing-O-Matic/lib/visibone_colors.scad>
//-------
//- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
// Print with +0 shells
// Infill = 1.0, line, perpendicular to Bar axis on first bridge layer
// Multiply = at least four copies to prevent excessive slowdown
ThreadThick = 0.25;
ThreadWidth = 2.0 * ThreadThick;
HoleFinagle = 0.4;
HoleFudge = 1.00;
function HoleAdjust(Diameter) = HoleFudge*Diameter + HoleFinagle;
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
function IntegerMultipleMin(Size,Unit) = Unit * floor(Size / Unit);
//-------
// Dimensions
PinDia = 4.0 + 0.5; // upright pin diameter + clearance
PinRadius = PinDia/2;
PinSpace = 35.0; // pin spacing along bar
PinOC = 3.4; // bar center to pin center
PinTubeLength = 15.0; // length of upright tube along pin
BarDia = 4.7 + 0.2; // horizontal bar diameter + clearance
BarRadius = BarDia/2;
BarTubeLength = PinSpace - 5.0; // length of horizontal half tube along bar
TubeWall = 4*ThreadWidth; // wall thickness -- allow for fill motion
TubeSides = 4 * 4; // default side count for tubes (in quadrants)
$fn = TubeSides;
SupportClear = 0.85; // support structure clearance fraction
//-------
module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
cylinder(r=HoleAdjust(FixDia)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
}
module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
Range = floor(50 / Space);
for (x=[-Range:Range])
for (y=[-Range:Range])
translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
%cube(Size,center=true);
}
//--------
// Support under bar tube shells
module SupportStructure() {
color("cyan")
difference() {
union() {
for (Index=[-4:4])
translate([Index*(BarTubeLength/8.5),0,0])
rotate([0,90,0])
rotate(180/TubeSides)
cylinder(r=SupportClear*BarRadius,h=2*ThreadWidth,center=true);
rotate([0,90,0])
rotate(180/TubeSides)
cylinder(r=SupportClear*BarRadius,h=10*ThreadWidth,center=true);
translate([0,0,ThreadThick])
cube([(BarTubeLength + 4*ThreadWidth),BarRadius,2*ThreadThick],center=true);
}
translate([0,0,-(BarRadius + Protrusion)/2])
cube([(BarTubeLength + 2*Protrusion),
BarDia,
(BarRadius + Protrusion)],center=true);
}
}
//-------
// Put it together
module Protector() {
difference() {
union() {
translate([0,PinOC,0])
rotate(180/TubeSides)
cylinder(r=(PinDia + 2*TubeWall)/2,h=PinTubeLength);
translate([-BarTubeLength/2,0,0])
rotate([0,90,0])
rotate(180/TubeSides)
cylinder(r=(BarDia + 2*TubeWall)/2,h=BarTubeLength);
}
translate([0,PinOC,-Protrusion])
rotate(180/TubeSides)
PolyCyl(PinDia,(PinTubeLength + 2*Protrusion),TubeSides);
translate([-BarTubeLength/2,0,0])
rotate([0,90,0])
rotate(180/TubeSides)
translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
cylinder(r=BarRadius,h=(BarTubeLength + 2*Protrusion));
translate([0,0,-(BarRadius + TubeWall + Protrusion)/2])
cube([(BarTubeLength + 2*Protrusion),
BarTubeLength,
(BarRadius + TubeWall + Protrusion)],center=true);
}
}
//-------
// Build it!
ShowPegGrid();
if (Layout == "Support")
SupportStructure();
if (Layout == "Show") {
Protector();
translate([0,-10,0])
SupportStructure();
}
if (Layout == "Build")
rotate(90) {
if (Support)
SupportStructure();
Protector();
}
If you pick up consumer-grade UPS units during closeout sales, they cost little more than replacing the batteries in older units… so we now have a new UPS replacing an old Waber box.
Just for completeness, I pulled the 25 A internal fuses:
Waber UPS battery fuses
And then measured the remaining battery capacity:
Waber UPS
The pair of sealed lead-acid batteries claim 5 Ah each, so the 6 A load far exceeds the usual C/20 SLA test current. The fact that the better one hit 1.6 Ah under that load says it’s in surprisingly good shape.
In fact, the label I put on that battery in January 2008 says it hit 1.4 Ah at 2.5 A, so it’s doing much better than you’d expect.
However, the UPS claims to support 650 VA = 450 W at 0.7 power factor. The batteries must supply the real power while the inverter drives the reactive load; giving Waber the benefit of the doubt at 90% efficiency says the batteries must provide 500 W = 21 A at 24 V under full load.
When we rearranged the kitchen after installing the laminate flooring, I conjured up a countertop to replace the ancient one over a cabinet left standing in one end of the kitchen where the new refrigerator didn’t fit. This was a temporary measure until we built an additional cabinet adjacent to the old one and laid a single countertop over the whole affair. Having several short lengths of generic gray countertop left over from the Black Bathroom, laundry, and the other side of the kitchen, I butt-glued two hunks together with a small block of wood underneath as a support.
Time passes, we never did get around to building the other cabinet, and eventually the weight of the microwave and mixer bowed the poorly supported joint until it broke free and deposited the mixer on the floor.
Both pieces being bowed, I screwed some angle bracket underneath to straighten them out, clamped them together, laid a piece of tape over the joint, and match-marked the dowel locations:
Countertop – match-marked joint
Drilled holes for 1/4 dowel pins that I sliced off a length of aluminum rod (no sissy wood pins for me!):
Countertop – dowel hole jig
Slobbered epoxy over the pins with enough into the holes for good adhesion, then buttered up the joint to fill the voids:
Countertop – underside braces and joint
Put more tape over the countertop, sliced out the gap, and buttered up the top surface to fill the joint:
Countertop – filling joint
That works because JB Industro-Weld Epoxy turns out to be a nearly perfect color match:
Countertop – final joint
Those angle brackets remain in place underneath the surface in the hope they’ll prevent it from bowing again. An aluminum strip (not yet installed in these pix) fills the recess below the backsplash to level it with the underside of the countertop, providing more support over the back of the cabinet case.
The whole affair took a few days, what with curing successive epoxy applications overnight. Got to use some tools that don’t often see the light of day, too, which is always good fun.