The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Electronics Workbench

Electrical & Electronic gadgets

  • Stepper Sync Wheel: Group Sync

    A small tweak to that code produces a sync pulse for each full sine wave of microstepping current, aligned with the step pulses. The sync pulse occurs on the rising edge of the current waveform (because I set it up that way) and has 50% duty cycle to allow triggering at either zero-current microstep.

    Then pix like this happen:

    Microstepping Group Sync
    Microstepping Group Sync

    The traces:

    • top = 1/group sync
    • middle = winding current at 500 mA/div
    • bottom = step pulse, 1/microstep

    The big jump just before the zero-current microstep on the decreasing-current sides of the sine wave indicates that it’s hard to get all the current out of the windings at 12 V. A detail view of those steps shows that the current is 50% higher than it should be at the start of the zero-current microstep, having completely missed the last microstep:

    Decreasing Current
    Decreasing Current

    Which, of course, is why I’m doing all this: to explore that kind of behavior.

    You may find the generated sync pulses are off by ±1 microstep from the expected start of the zero-current microstep, because the optical 1/rev signal threshold may line up perversely with the start of a microstep. You can twist the sync wheel just slightly on the shaft, but it’s pretty much a matter of shaking the dice to see if a better combination comes up. Doesn’t make any real difference to the scope triggering, though, as any stable sync alignment is as good as any other.

    The code uses the 1/rev optical sync pulse once, to get the initial alignment, so whacking the wheel as it rotates may cause the generated sync pulses to skip a beat or twenty. The result remains stable, just at a different alignment.

    One could argue that you really don’t need the 1/rev optical signal at all, but I find it comforting to use an absolute rotational reference to lock the pulses in (pretty nearly) the same place every time. If you’re stuck with an in-place motor, then you probably don’t have a 1/rev signal and you must wing it.

    The Arduino source code:

    // Stepper motor driver synchronization
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU June 2011
    
    //-- Stepper parameters
    
    #define SYNC_OFFSET            8        // steps from 1/rev pulse to start of first 4-full-step group
    
    #define FULL_STEPS_PER_REV    200
    #define MICROSTEPPING        8
    
    #define GROUPS_PER_REV (FULL_STEPS_PER_REV / 4)
    #define STEPS_PER_GROUP (MICROSTEPPING * 4)
    
    //-- Pin definitions, all of which depend on internal hardware: do *not* change
    
    #define PIN_REV        2                // INT0 = positive 1/rev pulse from optical switch
    #define PIN_STEP    5                // T1 = positive 1/step pulse from stepper driver
    #define PIN_TRIGGER    9                // OC1A = positive trigger pulse to scope
    
    //-- Trace outputs may be chosen freely
    
    #define PIN_TRACE_A    10
    #define PIN_TRACE_B    11
    #define PIN_TRACE_C    12
    
    #define PIN_LED        13                // standard Arduino LED
    
    //---------------------
    // State Variables
    
    word PulseCounter;
    
    //---------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    //--- Input & output pins
    
    void TogglePin(char bitpin) {
    digitalWrite(bitpin,!digitalRead(bitpin));    // toggle the bit based on previous output
    }
    
    //----------------
    // Initializations
    
    void setup() {
    
    pinMode(PIN_REV,INPUT);        // INT0 1/rev pulse from wheel
    
    pinMode(PIN_STEP,INPUT);        // T1 step pulse from stepper driver
    
    pinMode(PIN_LED,OUTPUT);
    digitalWrite(PIN_LED,LOW);
    
    pinMode(PIN_TRACE_A,OUTPUT);
    pinMode(PIN_TRACE_B,OUTPUT);
    pinMode(PIN_TRACE_C,OUTPUT);
    
    //--- Prepare Timer1 to count external stepper drive pulses
    
    TCCR1B = B00001000;                // Timer1: Mode 4 = CTC, TOP = OCR1A, clock stopped
    
    pinMode(PIN_TRIGGER,OUTPUT);        // OC1A to scope trigger
    
    //-- Wait for rising edge of 1/rev pulse from optical switch
    
    TCCR1A = B11000000;                        // COM1A set on compare
    TCNT1 = 0;                                // ensure we start from zero
    OCR1A = SYNC_OFFSET;                        // set step counter
    
    while(!digitalRead(PIN_REV)) {            // stall until 1/rev input rises
    TogglePin(PIN_TRACE_A);
    }
    
    //-- Got it, fire up the timer to count steps to start of first group
    
    TCCR1B |= B00000111;                        // enable clock from T1 pin, rising edge
    
    digitalWrite(PIN_LED,HIGH);                // show we got here
    digitalWrite(PIN_TRACE_A,LOW);
    
    while(!(TIFR1 & _BV(OCF1A))) {            // wait for compare
    digitalWrite(PIN_TRACE_B,digitalRead(PIN_STEP));
    continue;
    }
    TIFR1 |= _BV(OCF1A);                        // clear match flag
    
    //-- Scope sync pulse is now active, we can enter the main loop
    
    }
    
    //----------------
    // The main event
    
    void loop() {
    
    //-- Scope sync pulse active
    
    digitalWrite(PIN_LED,LOW);                // show we got here
    digitalWrite(PIN_TRACE_B,LOW);
    
    //-- Set up for first half of the group, sync high -> low
    
    TCCR1A = B10000000;                        // COM1A clear on compare
    OCR1A = (STEPS_PER_GROUP / 2) - 1;
    
    while(!(TIFR1 & _BV(OCF1A))) {            // wait for compare
    digitalWrite(PIN_TRACE_B,digitalRead(PIN_STEP));
    continue;
    }
    TIFR1 |= _BV(OCF1A);                        // clear match flag
    digitalWrite(PIN_TRACE_B,LOW);
    
    //-- Set up for the second half, sync low -> high
    
    TCCR1A = B11000000;                        // COM1A set on compare
    OCR1A = (STEPS_PER_GROUP - (STEPS_PER_GROUP / 2)) - 1;    // may be odd, so allow for that
    
    while(!(TIFR1 & _BV(OCF1A))) {            // wait for compare
    digitalWrite(PIN_TRACE_B,digitalRead(PIN_STEP));
    continue;
    }
    TIFR1 |= _BV(OCF1A);                        // clear match flag
    digitalWrite(PIN_TRACE_B,LOW);
    
    //-- Shut down counter and wait for end of 1/rev pulse
    
    #if 0
    TCCR1B &= ~B00000111;                        // turn off timer clock
    
    while(digitalRead(PIN_REV)) {                // stall until 1/rev pulse goes low again
    TogglePin(PIN_TRACE_C);
    }
    digitalWrite(PIN_TRACE_B,LOW);
    #endif
    
    }
    
  • Stepper Motor Driver Bypassing: Mind the Voltage

    The supply voltage for that picture came from a bench supply and, having confirmed that the initial slope of the current waveform matched the voltage, I twiddled the knob while watching the slope change.

    As expected, lower voltage = lower slope and higher voltage = higher slope. That worked fine, right up until a firecracker popped about a foot in front of my face, launched a missile over my left shoulder, and filled the Basement Laboratory with the pungent smell of electrical death.

    Detonated electrolytic cap
    Detonated electrolytic cap

    While wiring up a hairball test circuit for that Pololu driver, I’d put a pair of electrolytic caps on the +5 and +12 V supply lines, seeing as how solderless breadboards aren’t all that great for power distribution. The brown fur growing just to the upper right of the heatsink is what’s left of a 16 V cap that had 25 V applied for a few seconds: I’d wired in the bench supply in place of the breadboard’s fixed +12 V output and forgot all about the caps.

    The cap body departed for the far reaches of the Basement Laboratory, leaving behind shredded cardboard and unrolled plastic strips. I’m sure it’ll turn up some day.

    Nothing else took any damage, but for a few minutes I thought I’d killed Eks’ AM503 current probe, which pokes in from the lower right.

    The black lump just above the probe is an ordinary AC current transformer that didn’t work well at all: the 1/rev frequency was just too low.

    If you don’t always wear glasses at the workbench, start now.

  • Stepper Sync Wheel: Current Waveform First Light

    Eks loaned me a Tek AM503 Current Probe Amplifier, one of those gorgeous instruments that Just Works: a clamp-on DC to 50 MHz Hall Effect current meter. Because it’s electrically isolated from all the hideous electrical hash that surrounds any stepper motor driver circuit, it doesn’t see much of the garbage that pollutes any current sensor depending on a series resistance and a differential amplifier.

    Which lets you take pix like this:

    Stepper Test
    Stepper Test

    From top to bottom:

    The initial ramp occupying the first third of each step comes from the motor’s L/R time constant coupled with the 9 V supply I was using. Back of the envelope: 2 mH / 2 Ω = 1 ms. With 8 V (9 V less MOSFET drops &c) applied, the initial slope = 8 V / 2 mH = 2500 A/s, so in 75 ms it rises 187 mA: close enough.

    The small ripples show the A4988 chopping the current to maintain the proper value for each microstep.

    Looks just like the pretty pictures in the datasheet, doesn’t it?

  • Pololu Stepper Driver Board Heatsinking: Crude Prototype

    Those cute little Pololu stepper driver boards using the Allegro A4988 chip have one conspicuous problem: there’s no good way to heatsink the chip. The doc recommends heatsinking for currents around 1 A and some informal testing shows it will trip out on thermal protect around 800 mA, so heatsinking really isn’t optional.

    A thermal pad from the chip bonds to vias that conduct heat through the PCB to the bottom surface copper layer: putting a heatsink on the top doesn’t help as much as one on the bottom. What I’m doing here is a first pass at a bulk heatsink that would work with several of the driver chips lined up in a row; this one is ugly and doesn’t work well, but it should let me do some further electrical tests.

    The general idea is to clamp the heatsink around the board, with the chip as the top-side pressure point. The catch: no room for an actual heatsink underneath, because that’s where the connector pins live. You could mount the board upside-down, but then there’s no good way to tweak the stepper current trimpot. That may not be a problem after you get things set up, although I’d hate to unplug and replug the board for each adjustment.

    So I think a reasonable solution involves a metal strip to conduct the heat out the ends and up to the heatsink. What I’ve done here does not accomplish that; I’m just feeling around the parameter space.

    You can’t get too enthusiastic with the clamping force, lest you crush the chip, so moderate pressure is the rule of the day. However, the chip sits low on the board, surrounded by taller components, so I put a drop of epoxy on top and flipped it over to produce a short thermally conductive column that’s higher than everything else:

    Pololu stepper board - epoxy curing
    Pololu stepper board – epoxy curing

    The blue sheet comes from a trimmed-down TO-220 transistor heatsink pad; it’s thermally conductive silicone, provides a bit of compliance against the PCB, and insulates the REF trimpot test point from the heatsink.

    The result looks OK, but it would be better to embed a small metal block between thinner epoxy layers to get better thermal conductivity:

    Pololu stepper board - epoxy blob on driver chip
    Pololu stepper board – epoxy blob on driver chip

    Although most of the heat goes out the bottom, you still need something on the top to take the spring pressure. I trimmed down the TO-220 heatsink that came with that silicone pad; it must mount off-center to permit access to the trimpot but, alas, blocks the voltage monitoring pad and both sense resistors. A length of 45-mil music wire bent into a flat M  provides the spring:

    Pololu stepper board - heatsink top view
    Pololu stepper board – heatsink top view

    The side view show how the kludge fits together:

    Pololu stepper board - crude heatsink
    Pololu stepper board – crude heatsink

    The final result is truly ugly. The epoxy column didn’t turn out nearly as parallel to the PCB as I’d like, so some filing and finishing will be in order.

    Now, to find out if it’ll allow the chip to run above 1 A for at least a while.

  • Cordless Screwdriver Switch Re-Repair

    The switch on that screwdriver failed again, this time by having the internal switch mounting bosses disintegrate:

    Cordless screwdriver - broken switch mounts
    Cordless screwdriver – broken switch mounts

    Not being one to worry about outside appearances, I simply drilled out the bosses to fit a pair of 4-40 screws, put the nuts inside, and it was all good:

    Cordless screwdriver - switch with screws
    Cordless screwdriver – switch with screws

    Except that the switch now required an unseemly amount of force to operate in the forward direction. The switch is the cheapest possible collection of bent metal strips and injection molded plastic bits you can imagine, but with some bending and re-staking and general futzing around, it works fine again.

    This still makes no economic sense…

  • Stepper Motor Oscillocope Synchronization: Arduino to the Rescue!

    In order to get good scope pictures of the winding current in a stepper motor, the scope must sync to the step pulses. However, it must also sync to the groups of 32 step pulses that make up a single set of four full steps, because the winding current repeats for each of those groups. Triggering once per revolution and delaying for a fixed amount will get you where you need to be.

    The sync wheel provides a once-per-revolution pulse, but there’s some jitter in the edge for all the usual reasons and you’d be better off with a sync based on the stepper driver’s step input. The general idea is to find the leading edge of the optical pulse, find the next step pulse, then produce output pulses based on the step signal. Assuming a regular step pulse stream (from a pulse generator, for example), the output will be both locked to the wheel rotation and to the step pulses.

    Normally this calls for a tedious wiring session involving logic gates and counters, but an Arduino has all the requisite machinery built in. The trick is to generate the pulses using the ATmega’s hardware, rather than program instructions, thus eliminating the usual jitter caused by instruction execution time.

    I set up Timer 1 in Mode 4 (CTC with OCR1A controlling the matches) to count step pulse inputs on its T1 external clock input pin and produce a once-per-revolution output pulse on the OC1A pin. Because the output changes on the rising edge of the input clock, its rising and falling edges will provide rock-solid stable scope synchronization.

    The big picture goes a little something like this:

    • Tell the counter to set the output on match, load the duration of the output pulse
    • Wait for the once-per-revolution signal, then enable the external clock input
    • Wait for the comparison to happen and reset the match flag
    • Set a one-pulse delay and tell set the counter to clear the output on match
    • Wait for the compare, clear the flag, turn off the counter
    • Wait until the once-per-rev signal goes low
    • And then do it all over again

    Which produces this:

    Sync Wheel
    Sync Wheel

    Top trace = optical signal from interrupter, middle = 1/rev sync from Arduino OC1A pin, bottom = step pulses. The motor is turning 3.5 rev/s = 210 rev/min. The top half of the screen is at 2 ms/div, the bottom half at 200 μs/div.

    You could synchronize the counter to the 1/rev input exactly once, then produce the output pulse just by counting stepper pulses. It’d also be nice to have a pulse that repeats for each group of 32 microsteps within each set of four full steps, perhaps settable to a particular microstep within the group. All that’s in the nature of fine tuning.

    Of course, devoting an Arduino to this project would be absurd, but for a one-off effort it makes a lot of sense.

    The Arduino source code:

    // Stepper motor driver synchronization
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU June 2011
    
    //-- Pin definitions, all of which depend on internal hardware: do *not* change
    
    #define PIN_REV	2					// INT0 = positive 1/rev pulse from optical switch
    #define PIN_STEP 5					// T1 = positive 1/step pulse from stepper driver
    #define PIN_TRIGGER 9				// OC1A = positive trigger pulse to scope
    
    #define SYNC_OFFSET	15				// steps from 1/rev puse to start of first 4-full-step group
    
    #define PIN_TRACE_A    10
    #define PIN_TRACE_B    11
    #define PIN_TRACE_C    12
    
    #define PIN_LED		13
    
    //---------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    //--- Input & output pins
    
    void TogglePin(char bitpin) {
    	digitalWrite(bitpin,!digitalRead(bitpin));    // toggle the bit based on previous output
    }
    
    //----------------
    // Initializations
    
    void setup() {
    
      pinMode(PIN_REV,INPUT);		// INT0 1/rev pulse from wheel
    
      pinMode(PIN_STEP,INPUT);		// T1 step pulse from stepper driver
    
      pinMode(PIN_LED,OUTPUT);
      digitalWrite(PIN_LED,LOW);
    
      pinMode(PIN_TRACE_A,OUTPUT);
      pinMode(PIN_TRACE_B,OUTPUT);
      pinMode(PIN_TRACE_C,OUTPUT);
    
    //--- Prepare Timer1 to count external stepper drive pulses
    
      TCCR1B = B00001000;				// Timer1: Mode 4 = CTC, TOP = OCR1A, clock stopped
    
      pinMode(PIN_TRIGGER,OUTPUT);		// OC1A to scope trigger
    
    }
    
    //----------------
    // The main event
    
    void loop() {
    
    //-- Wait for rising edge of 1/rev pulse from optical switch
    
      TCCR1A = B11000000;						// COM1A set on compare
      TCNT1 = 0;								// ensure we start from zero
      OCR1A = SYNC_OFFSET;						// set step counter
    
      while(!digitalRead(PIN_REV)) {			// stall until 1/rev input rises
    	TogglePin(PIN_TRACE_A);
      }
    
    //-- Got it, fire up the timer to count stepper driver pulses
    
      TCCR1B |= B00000111;						// enable clock from T1 pin, rising edge
    
      digitalWrite(PIN_LED,HIGH);				// show we got here
      digitalWrite(PIN_TRACE_A,LOW);
    
      while(!(TIFR1 & _BV(OCF1A))) {			// wait for compare
    	digitalWrite(PIN_TRACE_B,digitalRead(PIN_STEP));
    	continue;
      }
      TIFR1 |= _BV(OCF1A);						// clear match flag
    
    //-- Scope sync pulse now active
    
      digitalWrite(PIN_LED,LOW);				// show we got here
      digitalWrite(PIN_TRACE_B,LOW);
    
    //-- Wait for another step pulse to clear scope sync
    
      TCCR1A = B10000000;						// COM1A clear on compare
      OCR1A = 1;								// wait for another pulse
    
      while(!(TIFR1 & _BV(OCF1A))) {			// wait for compare
    	digitalWrite(PIN_TRACE_B,digitalRead(PIN_STEP));
    	continue;
      }
      TIFR1 |= _BV(OCF1A);						// clear match flag
      digitalWrite(PIN_TRACE_B,LOW);
    
    //-- Shut down counter and wait for end of 1/rev pulse
    
      TCCR1B &= ~B00000111;						// turn off timer clock
    
      while(digitalRead(PIN_REV)) {				// stall until 1/rev pulse goes low again
    	TogglePin(PIN_TRACE_C);
      }
      digitalWrite(PIN_TRACE_B,LOW);
    
    }
    
  • OPB815 Optical Switch: Always Measure Your Components

    Given this ID printed on the side of an old OPB815 optical interrupter switch:

    OPB815 Optical Interrupter Switch - detail
    OPB815 Optical Interrupter Switch – detail

    And this pinout diagram from a randomly chosen datasheet for that part number:

    OPB815 Datasheet Pinout Diagram
    OPB815 Datasheet Pinout Diagram

    One might reasonably be led to believe that the white dot on the part marks the LED anode. That’s what I thought, too, but the innards are actually rotated 180° from the picture: the dot marks the transistor collector.

    Took me a while to figure that out; I eventually tore one apart and used my pocket camera to look for the blue-white glare of the IR emitter.

    After the dust settled, I rummaged around in the impacted shitpile holding my paper documents and found the original 1982 datasheet, with my very own scrawled notes:

    Original OPB815 Datasheet Pinout Diagram
    Original OPB815 Datasheet Pinout Diagram

    Back in the day, the dot on pin 1 marked the transistor collector…

    Memo to Self: No, scanning all that old paper wouldn’t help.