The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Electronics Workbench

Electrical & Electronic gadgets

Canon NB-5L Battery Dimensions

Having acquired a bunch of cheap batteries from the usual eBay suppliers for my new Canon SX230HS pocket camera, it’d be nice to measure their actual (and undoubtedly pathetic) capacity, which implies the need for a holder to make firm contact with the terminals. Sounds like a 3D printer might come in handy for that, doesn’t it?

The first step: measure the dimensions of actual batteries:

NB-5L Battery Dimensions

The terminals lie on what looks to be hard 1/8 inch centers, which must be pure coincidence. They’re recessed anywhere from 0.75 mm to 1.0 mm, depending on who made the thing, into the battery’s endplate.

The Canon charger has three spring-loaded bent-wire contacts, arranged so the (-) terminal touches first as the battery slides into the holder, then (+), and finally the thermistor (T), with about 0.5 mm between each pair. That spring loading provides enough force to hold the battery in the charger.

FWIW, the thermistor is 7.5 kΩ w.r.t. (-) at room temperature.

The plan so far: use three big old gold-plated terminal pins as contacts, with flexible wires to a PowerPole connector that matches the battery tester. Cross-drill the pins to fit music wire lever springs, because the contact spacing is smaller than the smallest coil springs in the Big Box o’ Little Springs. I only need two terminals, so maybe I can force-fit a pair of small coil springs in there, which would be nice.

2011-09-08
Casio EX-Z850 Camera Buttons Repaired!

As described there, the buttons on the back of my pocket camera stopped working, but the obvious laying-on-of-hands repair (i.e., wiggling the cables) didn’t improve things. I later discovered out that two other buttons on the side that didn’t go through the same flex cable were also dead, which suggested that the common failure was on the CPU board deep inside the camera. I gave it to my Shop Assistant with some handwaving about how she could maybe fix it by delving deep inside, tracing the cables, and doing some jiggling: if she could fix it, she could have it.

The first step was to take both covers off, which required a Philips 00 bit:

EX-Z850 front cover removed

Then the side plate comes off, which requires maneuvering the spring-loaded battery latch out of its recess, at which point the lug for the carry strap will fall out:

EX-Z850 battery latch and carrying lug

En passant, we discovered why the clock dies while changing the battery pack. It seems the miniature rechargeable lithium (?) NiMH (?) cell has rotted out:

EX-Z850 internal battery corrosion

Fortunately, it charges in a cradle, so the main battery can remain in place indefinitely. We’ll replace that thing at some point.

The CPU board has two flex cable connectors on the front surface and two on the back. My Shop Assistant released the clamps, removed the cables, wiped down the contacts with DeoxIT Red, gave it a test run with the covers off, and came bounding up the stairs as happy as I’ve ever seen her: the camera worked perfectly again!

Not being used to these things, though, she managed to crack one of the side latches on the far connector. I’ll admit to doing exactly the same thing, so I knew how to fix it: a dab of acrylic adhesive holds the fragment in place with a bit of springiness to hold the latch down.

EX-Z850 connector repair

The connector in question comes from the flash control board, to which those other two buttons (Ex and Drive mode) connect. The inside of the camera is a maze of connections, so I guess that was the simplest way to get the conductors through the body.

She reassembled the camera and it continued to work; we declared the job a complete success.

Shortly after that, I promoted her from Shop Assistant to Larval Engineer, First Instar, and we installed her in her new socket at college, where that camera should come in handy for something.

I think she’ll ace the Freshman Engineering Practicum, wherein her compadres will learn how to solder components to circuit boards, use multimeters & oscilloscopes & other instruments, and generally survive in a laboratory. Maybe she can wrangle a job as a Lab Assistant?

2011-09-03
Ampeg B-12-XY Cap Autopsy

Before trashing (*) all those caps from the Ampeg, I marched them past a capacitance meter that gives the dissipation factor D. As D = tan δ = ESR / ¦X¦, we know ESR = D*¦X¦ at the meter’s 1 kHz test frequency. We don’t know the magnitude of the total reactance X (the meter doesn’t tell us that) and in this case we can’t assume the ESR will be small with respect to the capacitive reactance Xc = 1/2πfC.

Ampeg capacitors

The smaller green 0.022 µF Cornell-Dubilier caps all came in with D=0.05, so they’re marginal.

The larger green 0.15 µF Cornell-Dubilier caps had D=0.00 and the black 0.1 µF was D=0.01. Those are OK.

The small black caps had D=0.14. Yikes! The larger one and the yellow cap had D= 0.01 or 0.02.

The blue Ducati (!) electrolytics ranged from 0.06 to 0.48. That was without reforming, as the last time Phil turned it on, the finals about melted down: I wasn’t going to risk that again just to find out if you can reform all the electrolytic caps without the tubes in place.

So, yeah, some of the coupling caps were exceedingly bad. If you’d like to rub the values & data against the schematic to find out which one(s) were killing the finals, go ahead.

All of the measured capacitance values were within spitting distance of their nominal values.

[Update: Eks points out that I really should measure the leakage at operating voltage, so as to find the current that would drive the grids off their normal bias points. That’s a project for another day… ]

(*) They’re in the e-waste recycling box, of course.

The raw data, not that anybody cares:

2011-09-01
Stepper Dynamometer: First Light
As a quick test of the stepper dynamometer, I lashed the larger stepper to that Pololu driver hairball, connected one winding of the smaller stepper to the oscilloscope, and recorded open-circuit voltages as a function of rotational speed:

Output voltage vs rps – open circuit

Now, if that isn’t suspiciously linear, I don’t know what is!

The slope is 0.583 v/(rev/s).

I used the scope’s RMS trace calculator, which smushes out the non-sinusoidal nature of the lower speed waveforms. As expected, there are several nasty mechanical resonances that appear in the output waveform while they’re tormenting my ears:

Stepper Resonance – 4.82 rps

Top trace is the winding output voltage, bottom trace is the drive input current, plus a line of junk I forgot to turn off.

Useful conversions:
- Drive waveform frequency / 50 = rev/s
- Drive waveform frequency * 6/5 = rev/min
So it works. Now I must figure out how to connect load resistors with something more reliable than crappy alligator clips.
2011-08-30
Exposed Stepper Motor Windings
Got a stepper motor from halfway around the planet from the usual eBay source, intended for a direct-drive extruder (at some point). This one has integral wire leads, which is fine with me, but the opening in the rear endcap reveals a bit more of the innards than one usually sees:

ACT 17HS5425 stepper – exposed winding

Yup, that’s one winding peeking out. Although the wire insulation should take care of anything conductive, I’d expect the same casual attention to detail in the winding terminals.

I’d worry more if this were being used in a metal-cutting operation, but a snippet of heatshrink tubing and a blob of hot-melt glue seem in order.

For what it’s worth, the motor is an ACT 17HS5425:
- 1.8°/step
- 48 mm case length
- 3.1 V
- 2.5 A
- 1.25 Ω
- 1.8 mH
- 48 oz·in holding torque
- 2.8 oz·in detent torque
- 68 oz·in rotor torque
No torque curves and nothing more in the way of a datasheet.
2011-08-19
Ampeg B-12-XY: Recapping

Just for completeness, here’s the original underside:

Ampeg B-12-XY – Underside – old caps

And with the new caps, many from Eks’ stash and a few from mine:

Ampeg B-12-XY – Underside – new caps

With all those in place, the firebottles lit up properly, the power tube plates remained dark, and it sounded great. The edge-lit engraved acrylic panel in the middle is a wonderful custom mod!

Ampeg B-12-XY Firebottles

It’s in mint condition, with the original footswitch and a remote Echo speaker box with a pair of drivers:

Ampeg B-12-XY – ready to rock

It still has those original huge electrolytics, though. Eks says the best test comes after half an hour: if the cans remain cool, the leakage and ESR will be good enough.That’s the case, so we’re rolling with them. However, the amp has some residual hum that the Hum nulling pot can’t remove, plus a bit of noise, which means those ‘lytics probably hover at the bare minimum values required to keep it going.

I discovered (inadvertently, of course) that swapping the two identical 6D10 triple triode tubes killed the Vibrato oscillator. That triode would oscillate for a few seconds after the footswitch grounded the cathode, but one tube didn’t have enough gain to keep it going. More likely than not, the feedback resistors have increased in value, too. Swapping the 6D10s restored it to operating condition.

My Shop Assistant compared her tiny DSP Fender amp with this monster and concluded that DSP effects only sound good when you don’t have the original for comparison. Of course, you could lose that tiddly amp inside the Ampeg’s speaker case.

I should’a learned to play the guitar…

2011-08-03
Ampeg B-12-XY: Tin Whiskers!

After Eks set me straight on cleaning the contacts involved with the Ampeg’s Echo circuitry, we emerged from his shop into brilliant sunshine. He looked into the thing and shouted “Tin whiskers!”

It turns out the Hammond folks made the outer frame from tin- (or, shudder, cadmium-) plated steel that has grown a dense crop of whiskers on its interior surface. They glittered in the sunlight like a carpet of crushed glass, with the longest ones maybe 3 mm tall!

This view looks nearly parallel to the side of the channel (upward as it mounts on the speaker box), with the steel wall to the bottom of the image. I applied gruesome contrast stretching to make the whiskers more visible:

Ampeg Spring Echo Unit – Tin Whiskers

This is the first time I’d ever seen a tin whisker in person and there’s a bazillion of ’em in there!

If that Ampeg had transistorized components, it’d be dead as a doornail! Fortunately, a tin whisker doesn’t stand a chance in an analog vacuum-tube circuit. The power supply puts 400-ish V into 40 μF caps, providing plenty of energy to vaporize the errant whisker; all you’d hear is a pop.

2011-08-02