The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Electronics Workbench

Electrical & Electronic gadgets

  • Tour Easy Running Lights: Updated Lights

    Tour Easy Running Lights: Updated Lights

    With the new battery mount & buck converter box installed on Mary’s bike, I updated the running light circuitry to match the ones on my bike. The original wiring just supplied 6.3 V from the headlight circuit, but now the four wire ribbon cable from the electronics box carries 6.3 VDC from the buck converter and a 6 VDC signal going high when the DPC-18 display’s “headlight” output goes active. The latter goes into an optoisolator pulling down Pin 2, telling the running light to stay on continuously.

    The optoisolator sits next to the Arduino Nano’s Reset button:

    Tour Easy Running Light - unified light top
    Tour Easy Running Light – unified light top

    The black wire barely visible below the optoisolator jumpers Pin 3 to ground, telling the firmware that this is the front running light.

    The black & white wires from the top of the optoisolator connect directly to the ribbon cable entering on the other side:

    Tour Easy Running Light - unified light bottom
    Tour Easy Running Light – unified light bottom

    The gray wrap of clear silicone tape mummifies the wire-to-wire soldered connectors.

    The firmware now pays attention to the jumper input, so I need only one source file for both front and rear lights:

        if (digitalRead(PIN_POSITION) == HIGH) {
            Blinks = String("i e  ");             // rear = occulting
            Polarity = true;
        }
        else {
            Blinks = String("n e  ");             // front = blinking
            Polarity = false;
        }
    
    

    It just doesn’t get much easier than that!

    The Arduino source code as a GitHub Gist:

  • Tour Easy Running Lights: UPP Battery Mount

    Tour Easy Running Lights: UPP Battery Mount

    The new Unit Pack Power ebike battery uses 21700 cells, so its mounting plate lacks the internal space I used for the buck converter and optoisolator used by the running lights on my bike:

    Tour Easy Running Light - Bafang battery base circuitry - wired
    Tour Easy Running Light – Bafang battery base circuitry – wired

    The new mounting plate required new mounting blocks descending from the ones already on our bikes:

    UPP Battery Mount - build layout
    UPP Battery Mount – build layout

    Their top profile matches the bottom of the new battery plate:

    UPP Battery Mount - trial fit
    UPP Battery Mount – trial fit

    I pulled the load spreading plates off the bottom of the old blocks, stuck them to the new blocks, and screwed everything in place:

    UPP Battery Mount - installed
    UPP Battery Mount – installed

    The small box holds the buck converter that steps the 48 V battery down to 6.3 V for the running lights & the optoisolator that turns the converter on when the DPC-18 display’s USB port goes live:

    Tour Easy Running Light - electronics box interior
    Tour Easy Running Light – electronics box interior

    The baseplate is aluminum for (probably unnecessary) heatsinking under the buck converter, which sits atop an aluminum snippet isolated by heatsink tape, with a pair of nylon M3 screws holding everything together.

    The solid model looks about like you’d expect:

    Running Light - power box - Show view
    Running Light – power box – Show view

    I planned to run the mounting screw through the lid with the nut on top, so the central pillar would prevent crushing the lid. As it turned out, it was easier to put the nut inside the box on the aluminum plate and be done with it:

    Tour Easy Running Light - electronics box nut
    Tour Easy Running Light – electronics box nut

    The frame tube was too close to get a socket wrench in there, so I deployed a 1/4 inch square drive to 7/16 inch hex adapter and cranked the nyloc nut down with an open end wrench.

    As before, all the connectors are non-waterproof JST-SM, but at least they’re jammed tucked inside the box under its acrylic lid:

    Tour Easy Running Light - electronics box installed
    Tour Easy Running Light – electronics box installed

    Which has a square of electrical tape over its unused central hole. Le sigh.

    The mounting plate cable had an XT60 bullet connector pigtail that I chopped off and replaced with 45 amp Powerpoles to match the Bafang motor:

    UPP Battery Mount - Powerpoles
    UPP Battery Mount – Powerpoles

    Mostly because I have a box of Powerpoles and their crimper.

    Now Mary’s bike has the freshest battery and I get to run the three older ones in sequence on my bike. Yes, we now have four color-coded battery keys.

  • LED Light Switch: FAIL 2

    LED Light Switch: FAIL 2

    Another switch for the temporary basement LED light strips failed the same way:

    T8 LED power switch - failure 2
    T8 LED power switch – failure 2

    As always with such things, I suspect the only reason it has a UL mark on the back is because somebody else hasn’t missed theirs yet.

    So I got a three-pack of inline switches with cute little indicator lights and set about replacing all of them:

    Inline T8 power switch - internal
    Inline T8 power switch – internal

    These switches carry absolutely no regulatory approval markings, although they do claim to carry 10 A at 250 V, which I take with another load of salt.

    At least here in the US-of-A, a 240 VAC outlet has two “hot” wires carrying 120 VAC 180° out of phase, which means both conductors must be switched. Despite the voltage rating, only the L path goes through the clicky switch, with the N path along a strap just below the switch toggle. Using it on a 240 VAC circuit will kill you stone cold dead should you assume whatever it controls is turned off.

    I secured the Line and Neutral conductors with crimp connectors, rather than just wrapping the 20 AWG wires around the screw terminals, because the case halves join without perimeter nesting: a bare millimeter of air in the gap between the halves separates the terminals from my fingers. A layer of good electrical tape on each side improved that situation, but not by much.

    The complete lack of strain relief clamping on the cords prompted me to route the wires around the screw bosses. After a function check, squirts of hot melt glue anchored the two cords somewhat better.

    Aaaaand I secured that loose strap on the right with an (identical to the others!) screw from the Tray o’ Random Screws. The other switches had both screws installed, so this one must have been a QC escape.

    They suffice for the purpose, but … caveat emptor!

  • IWISS SN-2549 Crimping Tool Instructions

    IWISS SN-2549 Crimping Tool Instructions

    Because I needed to know which of the four dies in the jaw of my IWISS SN-2549 crimper was the right one for 24 AWG ribbon cable:

    IWISS SN-2549 JST Crimper Manual
    IWISS SN-2549 JST Crimper Manual

    It turns out either of the two middle slots should work, but the crimps look better in the smaller one.

    Admittedly, the instructions are thin on technique, but I only wrecked four pins while retraining my crimping hand. The key trick is indexing the insulation fingers on the step inside the jaw, thus putting the socket box or the male pin outside where it won’t get smashed flat. Squishing those fingers from their normal splayed condition into a rectangular shape helps fit them into the jaw against the step.

    Living in the future where the right crimping tool doesn’t cost five Benjamins is great …

  • Baofeng UV-5 Wiring Plate Globbery

    Baofeng UV-5 Wiring Plate Globbery

    The weekly battery swap revealed the dismal state of the headset wires on Mary’s radio:

    Baofeng wiring plate - loose wires
    Baofeng wiring plate – loose wires

    That’s after sorting & disentangling loose ends, ramming cables under their ties, and generally tidying things up.

    Which suggested an improvement I should have done long ago:

    Baofeng wiring plate - globbed
    Baofeng wiring plate – globbed

    Verily, it is written: the bigger the blob, the better the job.

    Gotta glob my bike the next time around.

    Update: It’s hot melt glue!

  • Magnifying Desk Light: LED-ifying & Base Refooting

    Magnifying Desk Light: LED-ifying & Base Refooting

    My ancient fluorescent magnifying desk lamp emerged from a box and cried out to be used, but the equally ancient 22 W fluorescent ring light was long past its prime and cried out to be replaced with something from the current millennium.

    So I removed the fluorescent ballast / choke from the junction box at the lamp base:

    Magnifying Ring Light - ballast removed
    Magnifying Ring Light – ballast removed

    That’s a grounded outlet in the cover plate serving as a wire termination block. The red crimp connector joins a white wire that formerly went to the ballast with the black wire going to the lamp head; you’ll note the black wire from the line cord going into the same heatstink tubing at the outlet.

    The lamp head had a push-to-start switch, presumably with an internal starting capacitor or some such, but also sporting a pair of terminals behaving like a single-pole push-on / push-off switch. A bit of rewiring, of which there are no pictures, made it work perfectly with the new 13 W LED ring light:

    Magnifying Ring Light - LED ring installed
    Magnifying Ring Light – LED ring installed

    It now sits on a bit of laboratory ironmongery weighing about as much as a small child:

    Magnifying Ring Light - on base
    Magnifying Ring Light – on base

    Although the base has four feet, it sits perfectly flat on my (admittedly battered) surface plate because all four feet have been ground to make that happen:

    Magnifying Ring Light - foot plan view
    Magnifying Ring Light – foot plan view

    Those feet will be hostile to any table / bench top outside their intended laboratory environment. Fortunately, the geometry is simple enough to build directly in LightBurn and cut from a cork disk with PSA backing suited to become a coaster:

    Magnifying Ring Light - cork foot cutting
    Magnifying Ring Light – cork foot cutting

    Which fit well enough, although all four feet are just slightly different:

    Magnifying Ring Light - cork foot
    Magnifying Ring Light – cork foot

    The new Basement Shop™ is coming together and this stuff is getting easier …

    The WordPress AI came up with a plausible steampunk build:

    Magnifying Ring Light - WP AI image 1
    Magnifying Ring Light – WP AI image 1

    Love those flowy feet, although the vertical rod in the back seems misplaced.

    Adding “one-piece base” to the prompt produces contemporary style:

    Magnifying Ring Light - WP AI image 2
    Magnifying Ring Light – WP AI image 2

    Dunno what the dingus on the lower arm might be (perhaps a spring?), but it’s got the right general idea.

  • Samsung Microwave Gas Sensor Teardown

    Samsung Microwave Gas Sensor Teardown

    With the microwave back in operation, I thought I might learn something about the failed gas sensor:

    Figaro TGS880 - base
    Figaro TGS880 – base

    Given that much information, finding the datasheet for a Figaro TGS880 sensor didn’t require much effort. In case you were wondering, the replacement sensor has no trace of branding or identification.

    The sensor element has a resistance varying with gas concentration, for a variety of test gases I hope our kitchen never contains in such abundance:

    Figaro TGS-880 Gas Sensor - response plot
    Figaro TGS-880 Gas Sensor – response plot

    The measurement circuit:

    Figaro TGS-880 Gas Sensor - measurement circuit
    Figaro TGS-880 Gas Sensor – measurement circuit

    I betcha the microwave waits for an order-of-magnitude resistance drop from whatever the starting value might be, then calls it done.

    The belly band holding the steel mesh to the plastic base is no match for a Dremel slitting wheel:

    Figaro TGS880 - opening
    Figaro TGS880 – opening

    As the saying goes, Sensoria est omnis divisa in partes tres:

    Figaro TGS880 - teardown
    Figaro TGS880 – teardown

    A closer look at the sensor element:

    Figaro TGS880 - interior
    Figaro TGS880 – interior

    The granular surface does not get along well with the 5× digital zoom required to fill the phone’s sensor, but you get the general idea:

    Figaro TGS880 - element detail
    Figaro TGS880 – element detail

    The heater measured 30 Ω on the dot and the sensor was an open circuit on the 100 MΩ range. Connecting the heater to a 5 V supply dropped the sensor resistance to 800 kΩ @ 50 %RH and a warm breath punched it to about 2 MΩ. That’s with an ohmmeter because I haven’t yet unpacked the Electronics Bench, but seems far above the spec of 20-70 kΩ in air.

    So it’s still a sensor, even if it’s not within spec.

    The WordPress AI-generated image for this post is … SFnal:

    Figaro TGS-880 Gas Sensor - AI generated image
    Figaro TGS-880 Gas Sensor – AI generated image

    My pictures apparently aren’t up to contemporary blog standards …