Author: Ed

The Samsung dishwasher has an upper rack with a rotating sprayer that was thoroughly clogged with debris from its damaged screen filter:

The whole assembly is readily available, although it seems any discrete part of the dishwasher costs about fifty bucks and this one wasn’t exactly broken.

It comes apart by rotating the lock ring (the one with right-angle ears sticking out on either side) 1/8 turn in the other direction from whichever way you think it should rotate. Hold the spray bar, shove the ears, and the spray arm will drop off:

The inside of the spray bar shows the locking details:

Now, here’s the tricky part.

The small ring under the locking ring, the one with two square nubbins pointing downward, snaps onto the pipe carrying the water. There’s a shallow notch around the pipe, the inside of the ring has a shallow lip, and the ring holds the whole affair onto the pipe.

Contrary to what I thought, the two nubbins do not latch onto anything. Apparently, they hold the ring in the proper position relative to the arm’s interior and that’s it.

The only way to reassemble the arm is to snap the small ring into place, with the lock ring above it, then install the arm and turn the lock ring 1/8 turn the other way. You (well, I) cannot snap the assembled arm into place, because the nubbins don’t provide enough oomph to seat the small ring on the pipe.

Unless I write that down, I will never remember it …

Protip: Needle nose tweezers are invaluable for picking crud out of the nozzles. Iterate on picking and flushing with water until nothing more comes out, then expect to repeat the process several times as more crud emerges from the depths of the plumbing.

Although it is apparently possible to disassemble the spray arm by unlatching all the snaps along the edge, I’d reserve that for a moment when lives depended on unclogging the nozzles.

With the seat glued and the old caster sockets yanked, I carved a piece of plywood to fit the gap in one leg:

After whittling the wood to kinda-sorta go in there, I pressed it against snippets of carbon paper (remember carbon paper?) to mark the contact points and carve them off:

This occupied most of a SquidWrench remote meeting, but eventually sank it flush with the leg:

Now, that’s not the prettiest job you’ve ever seen, but it gets worse:

This time around, I tinted the epoxy with brown and black dye, which knocked the color back to something tolerable and increased the curing time well beyond the usual couple of hours. Fortunately, I wasn’t in a hurry and it was pretty much done by the next afternoon.

Whereupon I mixed up another bodacious batch of epoxy:

The Kapton tape wrap kept (most of) the epoxy out of the end of the sockets. I buttered up the sockets just below their serrated heads and tapped them into the legs:

Yeah, I wiped that down a little better before another overnight cure left the four pins firmly secured in their legs; the pins still rotate (albeit stiffly) in the sockets, although the casters really swivel on their pins.

A cast iron fitting of the kind they just don’t make any more holds the legs in place:

My screw collection lacks chonky wood screws, but I doubt anybody will ever notice that shiny crosspoint screw.

In any event, the plate holds the legs in tapered slots along the cast iron base that also guides the height adjusting leadscrew under the seat:

The wood dovetails in the legs were a bit worn / shrunken, so I shimmed them with two strips of 3.5 mil = 0.09 mm stainless steel tape on each side and tapped the legs into place with a plastic mallet. The steel is completely invisible from outside and the legs are magically solid, just like they should be.

As expected, the new casters clash horribly with the chair’s classic style:

Somewhat to my surprise, it’s now undergoing a field test at Mary’s desk, where it replaces a chair she never liked. The seat adjusts down enough to let her feet reach the floor (which most modern chairs do not) and the edge doesn’t press on the back of her legs. We fiddled with the backrest height / angle / tension and it feels surprisingly good.

You gotta admire something with that kind of durability and repairability.

A good refinishing job would definitely improve its appearance, but that’s well beyond my abilities.

The Screen Filter (DD81-02011A) in our Samsung dishwasher (DW80K7050US) turned out to have a mold defect from the factory that’s been sitting there since the previous owners had it installed back in 2018:

The mesh apparently didn’t quite make it into the molded plastic, so that little gap has been letting debris in the wash water circulate through the spray bars and clog the orifices.

While replacements are readily available, they seem rather pricey for what they are and this seemed like an easy repair:

That’s a bead of EVA hot melt glue that will probably withstand the 163 °F = 73 °C “sanitize” cycle we haven’t had any occasion to use and seems no more toxic than anything else around here.

Protip: if your dishwasher has a filter, it’s likely clogged with a nasty accumulation of gunk, too …