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Moonlander Keyboard vs. Board Chow

The Moonlander keyboard has per-key LEDs that I’ve denatured enough that most show a pale gray, with a few others highlighted in orange. A few weeks ago the LEDs on the right-hand thumb cluster and the N key went nuts, cycling through a surprising assortment before settling on bright red; the obvious resets / firmware reflashing / tapping were all unavailing.

ZSA’s tech support recommended taking the thumb cluster apart to check the ribbon cable connecting it to the main keyboard half:

Moonlander thumb cluster - PCB bottom
Moonlander thumb cluster – PCB bottom

Come to find out my unclean personal habits lodged a particularly corrosive nugget of board chow on the cable:

Moonlander - corroded ribbon cable
Moonlander – corroded ribbon cable

It’s a more-or-less standard 0.5 mm pitch cable, but only 20-ish mm long, much shorter than the cables carried by the usual sources. ZSA sells them for $2 each, plus $25 courier shipping, so I bought three; they arrived in two days from halfway around the planet.

Because I don’t foresee my personal habits changing any time soon, I tucked a Kapton tape snippet in the gap to serve as a gutter:

Moonlander thumb cluster - tape shield installation
Moonlander thumb cluster – tape shield installation

That’s with the two hinge screws out and the cluster eased down-and-away from the keyboard enough to get the tape pressed against the keyboard.

With the screws installed and the cluster at its normal most-downward angle, the gutter closes up:

Moonlander thumb cluster - tape shield folded
Moonlander thumb cluster – tape shield folded

With the cluster in its normal operating position (for me, anyway), the gutter is nearly invisible:

Moonlander thumb cluster - normal position
Moonlander thumb cluster – normal position

For the record, I tucked the remaining ribbon cables inside the left-hand thumb cluster against future need.

Comments

One response to “Moonlander Keyboard vs. Board Chow”

  1. RCPete Avatar
    RCPete

    I have to decrumb my MS natural keyboard from time to time. The Mark I version of the board (Mini-DIN) could be dismantled and thoroughly washed, but I found a limit on the number of times I could do such before killing some circuitry.

    I have a Mark I.5 keyboard (circa 2002) on the shop computer, but that sees less typing and somewhat less food. The Mark II one I have (USB vs mini-DIN) can be cleaned well enough with a legacy letter opener. ARMCO (maker of guard rails and other steel products) gave one to my father years ago, and it’s a prized and strangely useful feature on my desk. Sometimes, it’s even used to open letters. [grin]