Stainless steel socket head and button head screws add a certain techie charm to the hard drive platter mirroring the Noval tube:
Black PETG, rather than cyan or natural filament, suppresses the socket’s glow and emphasizes the tube’s internal lighting:
The base puts the USB-to-serial adapter on the floor and stands the Pro Mini against a flat on the far wall:
A notch for the cable seems like a useful
addition subtraction to the socket, because that cable tie just doesn’t look right. I used 4 mm threaded inserts, as those button head screws looked better.
The solid model looks like you’d expect:
Those are 3 mm threaded inserts, again to get the right head size screw on the platter.
The height of the base depends on the size of the socket, with the model maintaining a bit of clearance above the USB adapter. The OD depends on the platter OD, with a fixed overhang, and the insert BCD depends on the OD / insert OD / base wall thickness.
Although I’m using an Arduino Pro Mini and a separate USB-to-serial adapter, a (knockoff) Arduino Nano would be better and cheaper, although the SMD parts on the Nano’s bottom surface make it a bit thicker and less suitable for foam-tape mounting.
I drilled the platter using manual CNC:
After centering the origin on the platter hole, the hole positions (for a 71 mm BCD) use LinuxCNC’s polar notation:
g0 @[71/2]^45 g0 @[71/2]^[45+90] g0 @[71/2]^[45+180] g0 @[71/2]^-45
I used the Joggy Thing for manual drilling after each move; that’s easier than figuring out the appropriate
g81 feed & speed.
The 3D printed base still looks a bit chintzy compared with the platter, but it’s coming along.
The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist: