Gorilla Glue: Cured in the Bottle

So the dishwasher ate another rack protector, which happens a few times a year. I’m getting low on spares, so maybe it’s time to run off a few in cyan PETG to see if the cute support structure will still be removable:

Dishwasher rack protector - support model

Dishwasher rack protector – support model

Anyhow, this time I used urethane glue, because the last of the acrylic caulk went into another project. I store the Gorilla Glue bottle upside-down so the entire top doesn’t cure solid, but:

Gorilla Glue - cured in bottle

Gorilla Glue – cured in bottle

Usually, it’s just cured in the snout. This time, the layer across the bottom was a few millimeters thick and the glue below seemed rather thick. I tossed the solid lump, slobbered a dab of thick goo on the dishwasher rack, jammed the new protector in place, replaced the cap, and declared victory.

That’s why I no longer buy that stuff in The Big Bottle…

 

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  1. #1 by Jason Doege on 2015-12-20 - 12:50

    You could store it in your 0-humidity safe…

    • #2 by Ed on 2015-12-20 - 13:04

      Aye! That’d really add to the disappointment of whoever breaks into it… [evil grin]

  2. #3 by Daniel B Martin on 2015-12-20 - 13:06

    I’ve had the same disappointment with Gorilla Glue. Maybe the manufacturer could solve the problem by using a different package. Some wines are packaged in a cardboard box which contains a liquid-filled plastic bag. As wine is drawn out the bag collapses. Hence no air is drawn in. The product stays fresher.

    • #4 by Ed on 2015-12-21 - 16:12

      Obviously, you’re not downing your hooch fast enough… [grin]

  3. #5 by Red County Pete on 2015-12-21 - 12:31

    I have a 70F warming box for finishes and glue, especially when the barn/shop is 38F in winter. This wasn’t enough to keep Gorilla Glue from setting off, so I gave up on it. For outdoor woodworking, I’m trying Titebond Exterior, backed by a nail. Made it through the summer and fall, so far.

    My dishwasher project is to degunk the drain pump/valve, since it’s running a bit slow. Didn’t RTFM thoroughly enough to note the filter that needs to be cleaned. Well water of unusual mineral content makes life interesting. [wince]

  4. #7 by solaandjin on 2015-12-21 - 16:03

    Gorilla Glue has been the most disappointing of my growing collection of adhesives. The expansion makes it very messy, and it has a long full cure time. I guess the best use case is what you’re using it for here: where you don’t care how it looks, and need something waterproof.

    Have you tried printing your protector without the support? I’ve found small arches can be formed surprisingly well without it. Maybe not in PETG.

    • #8 by Ed on 2015-12-21 - 16:09

      That was originally in PLA (yeah, for a hot dishwasher!) and produced sad little lumps without the support; the arch just caved in. But that was on the Thing-O-Matic, back in the day, so …

  5. #9 by Gerry on 2015-12-22 - 07:35

    Have you tried Supa-Fix? Normally these super-glues never work on the plastics I need to bond but this stuff has worked for me (eg I had a cracked oil filter housing which does not now need to be replaced). Unfortunately, the shelf life is unimpressive, regardless of how you store it …

    • #10 by Ed on 2015-12-22 - 08:25

      Never heard of Supa-Fix before, which isn’t surprising, as it seems to be a European thing. I could get it from eBay: $13 + $30 shipping…

      The data sheet suggests it’s cyanoacrylate applied to a powdered accelerant / gap filler. I’ve never liked cyanoacrylate adhesives, because they don’t fill voids and have poor impact resistance, plus I always have trouble aligning everything before the adhesive cures. From their description, I should like it, because the powder handles the void filling, provides enough structure for impact resistance, and I can fixture everything before applying the liquid.

      Thanks for the tip… when it comes around, I’ll try some!

      • #11 by Vedran on 2015-12-23 - 09:07

        I get gel formulated cyanoacrylate locally. It’s pretty cool, works like the normal stuff (minus the leaky mess) and it can fill voids – tough probably not as good as this powdered stuff. I know woodworkers use CA glue with activator. Put one on part A, other on part B and press together.

        Some time ago a friend introduced me to CA with applicator.
        http://www.uhu.com/fileadmin/extern/hhr/htdocs/en-us/product/detail/productCategoryIndex/1/productIndex/super-glue-precision
        No more messing with small tubes and getting glue on everything :)

        • #12 by Ed on 2015-12-23 - 10:14

          Put one on part A, other on part B and press together.

          That makes it sound so … simple!