After drilling that PCB, I noticed that the Z axis saddle locking lever (which also functions as the backlash adjustment) had come loose. It turns out that if you don’t tighten the thumbscrew or it works loose, then the locking lever can turn with the leadscrew and, at the very top of the Z axis travel, can walk off the leadscrew thread.
A snippet of rectangular brass tubing epoxied to the top of the Z axis saddle solves that problem by removing 3/32 inch of precious travel. A slip of brown waxed paper (yes, harvested from the new Y axis leadscrew wrapper) kept the epoxy off the dovetail.
Just for consistency, I removed 0.09 inch from the Z axis home offset, but that really won’t make any difference.
HOME_OFFSET = 6.84 HOME = 6.5
Now, I’d put the switch in that position because the saddle jams against the preload nut exactly at the end of the switch button travel. Now I can crush the switch by manually running the Z axis beyond its Home position …
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning 
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One response to “Sherline Z-Axis Home Switch Spacer”
[…] out that I managed to crunch it, exactly as I expected: I’d added a block to the Z-axis stage that poked the home switch just slightly before the […]