This worked out better than I expected: printable chainmail!
The back view may be easier on the eyes:
As the writing says, printed at 20 & 100 mm/s, 0.33 mm thickness, 0.66 mm width, and bridge speed at 1.0 to 1.3 times the usual.
I tried a few variations and got decent results with the bars set to 3 threads wide (the pix show 4 × bars). Making it fairly tall (11 × thread thickness, IIRC) helps get enough clearance below the sagging bridges between the vertical pegs. I’m amazed it works as well as it does.
Dropping to a width of 2 threads doesn’t work: the vertical pegs simply disappear from the G-Code! Turning the pegs into cylinders might help.
A pair of flush-cutting wire nippers applied to the top of the pegs along one edge allows you to lace a pair of sheets together. Apply a micro-drop of plastic cement to each cut, put a roll of duct tape on the joint overnight, and it’s all good.
My Shop Assistant has some interesting ideas for this, although I was mostly interested in its build-ability. It’s wonderful to see the printer lay down a sheet of tiny vertical pegs, five layers tall, and clear the top of every one, every time, on its way back and forth.
I love it when a plan comes together…
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning 
http://www.isi.edu/~tatiana/Rings/
found on G+
Not the same level of interlock, but awfully pretty.
Those look large enough to be do-able!
The Thingiverse version gives you control over most of the parameters. I’d make the rings stand up a bit straighter and tuck ’em closer together, both of which seem to require some source tweakage.
The suggestion to have the slicer add a brim around the platform contact patches make a lot of sense. The model puts a “torus” vertex on the platform; maybe rotating it by 1/2 segment would improve adhesion?
Now that I have the M2 tweaked up, I should give that a go…
I’d love to see it when you do.