The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Repairs

If it used to work, it can work again

  • Kenmore HE3 Washer Shock Absorber Shims

    Kenmore HE3 Washer Shock Absorber Shims

    As part of diagnosing a Terrible Sound inside our two decade old washer, I replaced the OEM shock absorber struts with cheap knockoffs. Although it didn’t solve the problem (spoiler: another tub spider bites the dust), the experience may come in handy elsewhere.

    The left rear (as seen from the front) shock stood in a pile of rust on the baseplate that came from a drip in the water feed nozzle to the detergent / bleach / whatever dispenser drawer. The affected parts are no longer available and I have never had any luck finding a replacement O-ring of the proper size, so I just pulled the nozzle out, ran a small bead of acrylic sealant around the O-ring, and squished it back in place:

    Kenmore washer - dispenser nozzle seal
    Kenmore washer – dispenser nozzle seal

    It’s the Y connection between the two black hoses, held in place on the dispenser by a relentless little clip. Release the two hose clamps, remove the hoses, pull it out, apply sealant, squish, reinstall in reverse order.

    As for the shocks, don a pair of work gloves and turn the upper mount (on the tub) counterclockwise as you look along the shock. The tub has molded-in latches that make turning it the wrong way difficult, but not impossible.

    With the shock loose, you can now try to turn the lower mounts counterclockwise as you look along the shock, but I had to deploy the BFW in very cramped quarters to get enough traction. This will likely wreck the little latches holding the mount in place, but you were going to replace it anyway.

    The new left-rear latch snapped firmly into place:

    Kenmore washer shock - left rear
    Kenmore washer shock – left rear

    Yes, that’s after I cleaned off as much of the rust as made sense.

    The remaining three latches did not snap firmly into place, so I made shims to soak up the slop:

    Kenmore washer shock - shim laser cut
    Kenmore washer shock – shim laser cut

    They slip around the central pillar with clearance for the latches, although the thicker shim didn’t leave much engagement:

    Kenmore washer shock - shim installed
    Kenmore washer shock – shim installed

    They ranged from 0.8 mm down to 0.2, based entirely on feel, and I used PETG, LDPE, and polypropylene clamshell of the right thickness.

    The left front got the thickest:

    Kenmore washer shock - left front
    Kenmore washer shock – left front

    Right front thinnest:

    Kenmore washer shock - right front
    Kenmore washer shock – right front

    And right rear in the middle:

    Kenmore washer shock - right rear
    Kenmore washer shock – right rear

    The shims aren’t precisely lined up with the feet, because I couldn’t make that work out, but they definitely prevented the mounts from shaking in their boots during the spin cycle.

    You will inevitably want to take the mounts off the shocks, which will prove surprisingly difficult. The two halves are identical, with triangular latches that snap together with no provision for release:

    Kenmore washer shock - foot internals
    Kenmore washer shock – foot internals

    Brute force applied with a small screwdriver may suffice, but don’t be surprised if strong words are required.

  • Nothing Lasts, Chemical Edition

    Nothing Lasts, Chemical Edition

    Cleanup after painting the hairlines involved opening the cap of the rarely used can of methyl ethyl ketone:

    MEK can - fractured cap
    MEK can – fractured cap

    It seems white-tinted polyethylene deteriorates after a dozen years of exposure to concentrated MEK fumes, suggesting I don’t use nearly enough enamel paint.

    The Container Stockpile disgorged a pair of pure polyethylene jars that should last another decade.

  • DripWorks Valve Fracture

    DripWorks Valve Fracture

    Early in the irrigation season, Mary turned on a DripWorks Micro-Flow Valve, only to have the knob + stem pop out and release a stream of water in the wrong place. Mary jammed it back in place until I could chop out the offending valve and install a known-clear replacement.

    The knob broke off the stem when I tried to pry it out of the valve body:

    Failed Dripworks valve - parts
    Failed Dripworks valve – parts

    The lip around the inside of the cap snaps over the top of the body, which is why I wrecked the stem, but the chip broke off the cap while Mary was turning it just before the stem popped out. Her fingers are barely strong enough to turn the valve, which means something had gone wrong before she started turning.

    A look straight into the valve body:

    Failed Dripworks valve - top view
    Failed Dripworks valve – top view

    The stem has swarf left over from drilling out the mold flash last year:

    Failed Dripworks valve - stem
    Failed Dripworks valve – stem

    All in all, the Dripworks drip irrigation system works well, but their overall attention to QC leaves something to be desired.

  • CR2032 Lithium Cell Lifetime

    CR2032 Lithium Cell Lifetime

    The Dell Optiplex 9010 acting as a file server woke up dead after I plugged it in after returning from a road trip. Its ID sticker shows a manufacturing date almost exactly nine years ago and the problem was exactly what you might expect:

    Optiplex CR2032
    Optiplex CR2032

    I’d never measured 100 mV on a CR2032 before.

    Because the Optiplex runs headless in the basement, diagnosis required hauling it upstairs, booting it with a display & keyboard, whacking the date into the current decade, then resetting a few other vital bits.

    The electrolytic caps looked to be in fine shape, though.

  • Sunbeam 3035 Clothes Iron: Rusted Spring

    Sunbeam 3035 Clothes Iron: Rusted Spring

    Some weeks ago the Sunbeam clothes iron Mary uses for her quilting projects stopped retracting its cord and a few days ago the entire compartment holding the cord spool simply fell off:

    Sunbeam 3035 Iron - detached cord compartment
    Sunbeam 3035 Iron – detached cord compartment

    One plastic stud and two thin plastic tabs held the compartment onto the rest of the iron. How they lasted this long I do not know, but they are neither replaceable nor fixable.

    When you see badly rusted screws in an electrical device, you know the story cannot end well:

    Sunbeam 3035 Iron - cord connections
    Sunbeam 3035 Iron – cord connections

    And, indeed, it hasn’t:

    Sunbeam 3035 Iron - retraction spring rust
    Sunbeam 3035 Iron – retraction spring rust

    This being a steam iron, it has a water tank that gets filled through an awkward port with a sliding cover. Mary is as conscientious a person as you’ll ever meet, but the occasional spill has certainly happened and it is painfully obvious the iron’s designers anticipated no such events.

    The coil spring had rusted into a solid mass:

    Sunbeam 3035 Iron - spring rust - detail
    Sunbeam 3035 Iron – spring rust – detail

    I removed the spring, soaked it in Evapo-Rust for a few hours, then cleaned and oiled it:

    Sunbeam 3035 Iron - relaxed spring
    Sunbeam 3035 Iron – relaxed spring

    Rewinding and reinstalling the spring showed it has lost its mojo and cannot retract more than a few feet of cord.

    She’s in the middle of a quilting project and will replace the iron with whatever cheapnified piece of crap might be available these days. Similar irons have reviews reporting they begin spitting rust after a few months, which suggests the plastic tank or stainless steel hardware in this one have been cost-reduced with no regard for fitness-for-use.

  • Kenmore Gas Range Control: Solder Joint Failure

    Kenmore Gas Range Control: Solder Joint Failure

    The entire control panel of our longsuffering Kenmore gas range became increasingly erratic, eventually reaching the condition where touching the upper right corner would blank the display, touching the lower right corner would restore it, and gently touching the temperature knob might elicit an F2 or F4 error code on the display. Given the symptoms, the old adage “It’s always the connectors” sprang unbidden to mind; I was pretty sure the oven temperature sensor had nothing to do with it.

    Pulling the thing apart reveals the PCB across the back of the control panel:

    Kenmore oven control - PCB overview
    Kenmore oven control – PCB overview

    Note that all of the external connections arrive on the white power supply PCB attached over the main PCB.

    A closer look shows one of the two groups of wire interconnects between the two boards:

    Kenmore gas range - rear PCB
    Kenmore gas range – rear PCB

    There’s a similar group hidden behind the hulking transformer.

    Removing the two obvious screws and easing the PCB out of the red plastic latches made the problem instantly obvious:

    Kenmore gas range - failed solder joint
    Kenmore gas range – failed solder joint

    Yeah, that broken solder joint would definitely be touch-sensitive!

    The solder joints in the other group also show signs of fatigue:

    Kenmore gas range - broken solder joints
    Kenmore gas range – broken solder joints

    It’s of interest only the upper joints on the power supply PCB have fractured. Perhaps those ends of the wires were hand-soldered separately from the other ends in the main PCB?

    Resoldering both ends of all the wires restored perfect operation:

    Kenmore gas range - resoldered joints
    Kenmore gas range – resoldered joints

    For the record, the Kapton tape I laid over the entire control panel 2-½ years ago continues to protect the slightly cracked membrane over the pushbutton switches:

    Kenmore oven control - Kapton tape cover
    Kenmore oven control – Kapton tape cover

    Gotta love yet another zero-dollar appliance repair …

  • OMTech 60 W Laser: Key Lock FAIL

    OMTech 60 W Laser: Key Lock FAIL

    The orange indicator I added makes the key lock switch position on the OMTech 60 W laser perfectly obvious:

    Laser Power Lock Indicator - installed
    Laser Power Lock Indicator – installed

    It is in series with the lower switch on the side panel:

    OMTech Laser - rocker switch lit
    OMTech Laser – rocker switch lit

    Although I would have labeled those switches differently, the “Control Switch” handles the 120 VAC line voltage to the HV power supply. As you’d expect, when its light is ON, the power supply is also ON and the laser is ready to fire.

    Those two pictures show the situation after I turned the laser power on a few days ago: key lock switch OFF, HV laser power supply stubbornly ON.

    Whoops.

    The “Control Switch” still does what it should, so I can shut the HV supply off when it’s not needed, but the key lock switch has definitely failed ON.

    As far as I can tell, the moving contact bar jammed at the bottom of its travel against the terminals. Pulling the switch out of the laser jostled it enough to release the bar and it’s now at the top of its travel:

    OMTech Laser - key lock - side view
    OMTech Laser – key lock – side view

    If it failed once, it’ll fail again.

    OMTech’s Customer Support agrees it shouldn’t behave like that; a replacement should arrive in a few days.