The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Repairs

If it used to work, it can work again

Folding Wood Chair Arm Repair

One of the folding wood chairs that Came With The House™ had a loose arm that turned out to be due to a missing chunk of wood:

Wood chair arm – as found

The obvious lay of the grain shows why it failed like that, surely hastened by the crack below the screw.

So I cut a snippet of brass tubing that, mirabile dictu, fit both the hole and the M6 screw, mixed up some wood epoxy and buttered it up:

Wood chair arm – brass tube epoxy fill

The crack extended entirely through the arm and was more extensive that seemed reasonable to expect the epoxy to handle on its own:

Wood chair arm – splits

So I ~~slobbered~~ ~~soaked~~ saturated the cracks with wood hardener and clamped them shut:

Wood chair arm – clamping

The hardener is intended to solidify rotted wood, but it makes a reasonable adhesive and, being much more liquid than ordinary wood glues, seemed like it would penetrate further into the cracks than anything else on hand. We shall see how this works out.

Rummaging in the Drawer o’ M6 Screws produced a better match to the brass tube than the original flat head screw:

Wood chair arm – repaired

It screws into a fancy tee nut in the upright chair rail, where a dot of thread locker should hold it forevermore.

I hit the exposed end with some sandpaper to smooth off the last of those smears and, after a few years, it’ll probably look like it grew there.

2024-06-07
Laser Cutter: Fourth Corner Adjustment

The pieces of a larger scrap bin ventured into the right-front quarter of the laser platform and didn’t cut well at all:

Fourth Corner beam misalignment – 2024-05-31

A closer look at the bottom right corner of that image shows the problem in more detail:

Fourth Corner beam misalignment – detail – 2024-05-31

The intended cuts are the dark lines, each with a poorly defined scorch 2 mm on its left. Knowing that the nozzle is about 4 mm, this suggests the beam is off-center enough to juuuust kiss the nozzle and splash the outer part of the beam away.

Having recently spot-checked the alignment and not seen any odd behavior on another platform-spanning project, this was puzzling. Given that the laser recently survived a move from one Basement Shop to another, with plenty of jostling while standing on end, I suppose I should have been more careful.

The biggest clue was seeing the shadow lines only near the front-right corner and noting they got worse farther into the corner. This seemed like the “fourth-corner” alignment problem described by St. Sadler some years ago and covered in a more succinct recent video.

AFAICT, the problem boils down to the difficulty of precisely aligning the beam at the longest distance it travels in the front-right corner. Careful adjustment of Mirror 1, after getting everything else lined up properly, seems to be solution.

The initial alignment at the first two mirrors looks OK, using targets taped parallel to the mirror plane:

Beam Alignment – Initial M1 M2 – 2024-05-31

The beam is slightly off-center at Mirror 1 and only a millimeter high on Mirror 2 at either end of the gantry travel along the Y axis.

The beam position at the laser head entry upstream of Mirror 3 shows the problem:

Beam Alignment – Initial M3 entry – 2024-05-31

The targets are left- and right-rear, left- and right-front, with varying pulse lengths obviously underpowering the last and most distant shot.

Looks like a classic fourth-corner problem!

Tweaking Mirror 1 by about 1/8 turn of the adjusting screw to angle the beam vertically upward eventually put the beam dead-center at Mirror 3:

Beam Alignment – M3 adjustments – 2024-05-31

The bottom two targets are double pulses at the left- & right-rear and ‑front, so the beam is now well-centered.

A quick cross-check shows the beam remains centered on Mirror 2 at the front- and rear-end of the gantry travel, Mirror 3 is still OK, and the beam comes out of the center of the nozzle aperture:

Beam Alignment – M2 M3 exit final – 2024-05-31

Subsequent cutting proceeded perfectly all over the platform, so I think the alignment is now as good as it gets or, perhaps, as good as it needs to be.

Whew!

2024-06-05
Balans Chair Re-footing
I’ve been using what’s now called a Multi balans chair since shortly after it came out in the 80s, during which time the plastic feet have worn flat:

Balans chair foot – foot wear

By now, the wood bases ride on the floor, which is a Bad Thing I should have fixed long ago:

Balans chair foot – wood wear

The newer Multi chairs have rolling endcaps, but AFAICT that’s not a retrofittable thing.

The feet have no obvious way to get them out, but after I saw how thin the plastic had become on one foot, some experimental carving solved the problem:

Balans chair foot – OEM foot removal

A large bolt threaded into the crude hole provided enough griptivity to yank the feet out:

Balans chair foot – removed feet

With measurements in hand, I picked up a quartet of furniture leveling feet with M10 stems and tee nuts that exactly fit into the recesses:

Balans chair foot – tee nut fit

I generally buy from sellers who include measurements in their descriptions, although I no longer believe any unit-measurement prices. Most of the time the sizes come out close enough to reality for my simple needs.

The stems were, of course, too long, but that’s easy to fix:

Balans chair foot – cutting stem

The saw does yank the stem down at the last moment, but cutting slow & steady thins the steel and reduces the drama to manageable proportions. Fitting a scrap of wood exactly under the screw would be a much better technique; be it so moved.

With the chair set to the mid-angle position I normally use, the feet meet the floor almost perfectly:

Balans chair foot – straight foot contact

At the steepest angle, things get skewed:

Balans chair foot – angled foot contact

Applying my nearly perfect hindsight, I got a set of swiveling feet and found an appropriate scrap of wood:

Balans chair foot – swivel foot cutting

Zero drama!

Which looks exactly like it should with the chair at the steepest angle:

Balans chair foot – swivel foot contact

The chair now sports two pairs of feet:
- Straight feet on the rear
- Swivel feet on the front
Now, to see how they survive on a chair, rather than motionless furniture.

If you have any idea why the WordPress AI image generator would come up with this, let me know:

Balans chair foot – WP AI image

That’s not hallucination, it’s just plain irrelevant.

For the record, we also have a couple of equally ancient Variable balans chairs.
2024-06-03
Improvised Table Leg Latch

While setting up the small table I conjured from scrap, I discovered one of the folding legs no longer had a latch to keep it from folding. Whether it never had one or the latch got lost along the way, there’s no time like the present:

Table leg latch – installed

The bolt I put there in place of the joint rivet precludes a smaller latch along the lines of the simple steel loop on the other leg, so I figured I may as well go large and, with that much surface area, plywood will work just as well as steel for my simple needs.

It’s a topless, bottomless box from the infinite supply at boxes.py, here seen with its halves being glued at right angles on an aluminum bracket:

Table leg latch – gluing

When those set, I glued & clamped them together in situ, then wrapped the whole mess with what’s basically high-strength friction tape to encourage it to not come too far apart under the inevitable stress when the leg tries to fold with a pile of stuff on the table.

We’ll see how long this survives; if past experience is any guide, it’ll be a while.

The WordPress AI image generator has a shaky grasp of both human anatomy and the blog topic:

Woodwork design by Escher. What is that interesting tool? So many arms, all with nightmare fuel anatomy!

2024-05-31
C-Power KK-800A Calculator Dress Panel Re-gluing

Long ago, I got Mary a cheap “desk calculator” with a vital function: it beeps cheerfully with each keypress. Nothing lasts forever and the aluminum dress panel around the keys has been gradually working its way loose.

So, we begin …

Gingerly remove the panel, un-bend and flatten it, lay it on the scanner, and cover with black paper:

C-Power calculator keyboard cover

Blow out the contrast, threshold the image, do a little touchup, and get a binary mask:

C-Power calculator keyboard cover – mask

Import into LightBurn, trace and discard the image, do some shape optimization, add 0.2 mm to the height & width of one key, propagate those dimensions to other keys (Make same width and Make same height FTW), cut a paper prototype to verify the fit, iterate until it drops neatly into place, cut an adhesive sheet, then peel & stick:

C-Power KK-800A keyboard – adhesive placed

The dress panel was held in place by what was once a quick-setting gooey glue that had long since fossilized. Although it gave up on the aluminum, it was not going to come off the calculator body without more struggle than seemed warranted.

So I stuck the new glue atop the old glue and hoped for the best. You can see traces of the old glue bead through the sheet:

C-Power KK-800A keyboard – adhesive ready

Lay the dress panel in place, burnish between the rows & columns, and it looks about as good as it ever did:

C-Power KK-800A keyboard – restored

If the adhesive sheet also gives up on the aluminum, I’ll try some fancy 3M 300LSE adhesive.

The WordPress AI image generator heard I like keys, so it spat out some keys for my keyboards:

Calculator keyboard – WP AI image

The piano keys seem familiar, the thing in the middle looks eerily like a PDP-11 front panel, and … could that be a folding keyboard in the distance next to an 8-track player from a car dashboard?

2024-05-27
Sears Sewing Machine Table Latch Fix

The Sears sewing table (Model 853-9635, not that you have one) wrapped around Mary’s Kenmore machine has extension surfaces on both ends:

Sears Sewing Machine Table – overview

The foot panel is secured by a simple wood latch that fell off the left side:

Sears Sewing Machine Table – stripped hole

Having some recent experience with this sort of thing, but not wanting to work under there, I waited for a pause in the sewing, then tried to remove just the hinged piece under the top surface. It turns out the joint is glued-and-screwed, so removing the two obvious screws didn’t do anything.

Dismounting the top surface at its other hinge and hauling the whole assembly to the Basement Shop showed this wasn’t the first time the latch had pulled its pivot screw out of the wood:

Sears Sewing Machine Table – stripped hole detail

The reason the screw pulled out of the top hole / slot is obvious when seen from the edge:

Sears Sewing Machine Table – screw obstruction

That’s one of the screws holding the piano hinge in place, but AFAICT the original latch screw also went right across that hole with maybe three threads engaging the wood.

Moving the pivot half an inch to one side won’t make any difference, so I figured I could sink a threaded insert into the wood. I’d rather use the drill press, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do:

Sears Sewing Machine Table – insert drilling

The combination square gets the drill eyeballometrically perpendicular to the end piece and the drill lies flat on the (underside) of the table surface. Seeing the bit line up with where the hole had to be was confirmation this would be successful; all I had to do was proceed slow-n-steady with the brad-point bit and stop when the tape hit the wood.

The insert screwed in as expected, without any collisions:

Sears Sewing Machine Table – insert installed

I drilled the wood latch to clear an M5 screw on the drill press, dabbed the screw with threadlocker, and reassembled everything on the bench for curing:

Sears Sewing Machine Table – latch installed

The extension surface on the right side of the table has an identical latch that hasn’t failed yet, but we agreed a preemptive repair is uncalled for.

The WordPress AI image generator is delivering much less jank, even if the result has little to do with the actual post:

Sears Sewing Table – WP AI image

Don’t think too much about the shadows, nor the lack of a treadle for what looks a lot like an early Singer Featherweight machine.

2024-05-24
Harbor Freight Bar Clamp: Plywood Handle

After only a dozen years, one of the 3D printed replacement handles for my Harbor Freight bar clamps snapped exactly where you’d expect:

HF bar clamp – plywood handle

The replacement this time around is laser-cut plywood, with a pair of 3 mm sheets glued together to just about match the original thickness:

HF bar clamp – plywood handle gluing

I hacked the OpenSCAD code to use its projection() operation to export the outline of the solid model on the XY plane, inhaled the SVG into LightBurn, replaced the original chunky hole with a Real Circle, cut a pair of them, discovered I messed up the diameter, tweaked that, cut a pair that fit perfectly, and that was that.

Flushed with success, I cut another pair to replace the (not yet failed) handle in the other HF bar clamp and restarted the failure clock.

Not as fancy as something milled on the Sherline, but way easier and, if it lasts another decade, I’ll call it a win.

The WordPress AI had fun with this post:

HF Bar Clamp Handle – WP AI image

The thing over on the left must be a 3D printer, but what’s floating in the middle? Those hand tools look downright scary.

2024-05-20