The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Repairs

If it used to work, it can work again

  • Replacing a Refrigerator Bulb

    Chandelier Bulb in Refrigerator
    Chandelier Bulb in Refrigerator

    Subtitle: ya gotta have stuff!

    Our refrigerator went dim; poking around inside revealed one of the two bulbs was dead.

    It was obviously a replacement: both are 40-W flame-shaped bulbs that I bought for the chandelier that might still hang in 89 Burbank Road. I intended to leave them for the new owners, but they got swept up in the moving frenzy.

    Being the sort of bear I am, I had written the replacement date on the bulb’s base: May 01. So that fancy bulb survived only six years!

    Nothing lasts!

    I picked the next-to-last flame-shaped bulb from the “Decorative Bulbs” box in the basement storage room, wrote the date on it (with a notation that the last one lasted 6 years), and screwed it in. Problem solved!

    Being the sort of bear I am, I can do all that with a completely straight face…

  • Fuse Failure

    Burned Fuse
    Burned Fuse

    The electric water heater in the rental house stopped working. I found this in the fusebox.

    Looks like it’d been simmering for a while!

    Fuses never (uh, rarely) fail as shorts, but sometimes they don’t fail open. The block and fuse box don’t look overheated and seem to be OK, but, sheesh…

  • Shower Drain Stoppage

    A while ago the shower drain in our black bathroom stopped draining. I’d noticed that the adjacent (and upstream) toilet was sometimes flushing strangely, although we attributed this to our darling daughter’s habit of occasionally emitting an incredible pot-clogging ceramic turd. Perhaps she inherited that ability from me?

    So I was prepared for the worst: an accumulation of, um, stuff, at the right-angle bend just downstream of the shower. My IR thermometer showed the heat from the shower water dropped off right around the bend, suggesting that the flow wasn’t so great. Tapping the cast-iron pipe wasn’t conclusive as it all pretty much sounds like it’s solid anyway… built to last a thousand years, as the saying goes, with hammered-lead joints.

    The other bathroom had no problems and the pipes down there (some newer PVC from the tub & sink) were not full of drain water. So the stoppage was between the shower and those inlets.

    The line has a convenient 3″ brass (!) cleanout plug upstream of the section in question, so if I got the plug out I could see the kitchen & black bathroom inlets, as well as the offending turn. Of course, the plug was firmly stuck and didn’t yield to main force (me hanging on the end of the mighty 3/4″ socket wrench handle), the application of penetrating sprays, or a brutal hammer-and-chisel assault.

    So I biked off to Lowe’s for a pair (there’s a second cleanout plug far downstream and you just never know) of 3″ PVC plugs.

    Returned home, deployed the 3″ hole saw, and drilled a neat hole in the middle of the brass plug. This being plumbing, a 3″ plug is actually 3-1/2″ OD and the saw left a 1/4″ ring with the threads. Another application of the chisel folded the ring in on itself and some wiggling pulled it free.

    We’d used no upstream water so I didn’t expect much in the pipe but nothing came out to greet the saw. In fact, the pipe was clean & clear all the way around the bend, with only a nasty, slimy hairball hanging from the shower/sink drain inlet.

    So it was just a glob in the shower drain, not the main line, after all. Sometimes I’m really glad to be proved wrong! Why the IR showed heat stopping at the bend I do not know, but it goes to show you never can tell.

    Screwed a PVC plug in place, ran some water into the shower, deployed a Plumber’s Friend with a vigorous up-and-down motion, and after a few strangled hoosha-woogas the drain went BLORT and all the water exited as usual. I’m afraid to find out if the entire hairball is hanging in the main line, but I suppose I should take a peek.

    Now, if I’d tried that before examining the inside of the big pipe, the first hoosha-wooga would have affixed a ceramic turd on the ceiling.

    Depend on it!

  • Stainless Steel Band Clamps, Endurance Thereof

    cimg1422-stainless-steel-hose-clamps
    Corroded Band Clamps

    As part of clearing the area for our fence project out back, I sawed off a few more lengths of ol’ Gene’s irrigation line and hauled them out of the battle zone. The line ran from the pump house (about 200 feet from the creek), up the hill, and about 400 feet along the property line to our house.

    Presumably the plants really liked creek water…

    Anyhow, he used a variety of hose clamps to hold the PVC pipe to the barbed fittings. They’ve been out in the weather, under the leaves, and generally left to rot for about two decades.

    I salvaged the few clamps that were all-stainless steel, because they were in great shape.

    The others have beautiful shiny bands with rotted worm screws and housings. Some are little more than rusty lumps that, if you didn’t know they were a screw, you’d never guess.

    Moral of the story: make sure the clamps are all stainless steel.

    I have no clue how you’d do that, though, because none of the clamps I’ve ever bought came with labels and I’d never trust the box on the LowePot shelf to match its contents.

    Maybe I should add a magnet to my chandelier o’ gear, right next to the credit cards in my wallet?

    Grrr…

  • Windows Partitioning: MediaDirect vs Everyone Else

    This is probably more than you really want to know, but it might come in handy at some point…

    Prior to refurbishing a friend’s dog-slow XP laptop, I did some exploratory surgery on mine just to make sure I understand the parameters. I’ve long since repartitioned my laptop’s drive and done horrible things to it, so it’s an ideal testbed. Before doing that, of course, I backed up all the partitions & MBR, Just Because.

    So, to begin…

    Partitions

    Dell laptops have (at least) three partitions in addition to the one that holds XP.

    1. Dell Utilities, accessed by Ctrl-F12 during boot, then selecting the “Diagnostics” boot. The same utilities are also on the Utilities CD and you can fetch an ISO, so you really don’t need this partition, but it’s handy to have if something hardware-ish goes wrong. I think I’ve used the diagnostics once, over the course of a decade or so.
    2. Dell Restore, accessed by Ctrl-F11 during boot. This blows away whatever’s in the XP partition and reinstalls an image copy of whatever the laptop had when it shipped. This includes all the apps, bloatware, and other junk that came with your copy of XP. It is not a “reinstallation” of XP that saves your data; you must back up & restore that yourself.
    3. Dell MediaDirect, a special “embedded” version of XP that runs a Dell-branded media player so you can watch DVDs without enduring the lengthy XP boot process. W00t!

    It turns out that you cannot restore the drive to its as-shipped condition with all those functions in place and operable, at least without far more tinkering that seems worthwhile under any reasonable circumstances.

    Utilities

    This must be the first partition on the drive, with partition ID DE. It’s booted by the BIOS and seems relatively rugged; you can restore it from back up and it’ll work.

    Restore

    This must be either the third or fourth entry in the MBR partition table, with partition ID DB. It’s invoked by code in the MBR’s boot code when you hit Ctrl-F11 during boot. When you repartition the drive and install GRUB to run Linux, you destroy that loader.

    The distinguishing feature of the Dell MBR loader is that it puts a blue bar across the top of the screen with www.dell.com (or some such) while it’s booting. If you hit Ctrl-F11 (or, according to some sources, just F11) while that bar’s on the screen, you’ll reach the System Restore program.

    If you don’t see the blue bar, you’re sunk for Restore, even if there’s a Restore Partition on the hard drive. Some sources indicate you can boot into it with Grub, but I didn’t try that.

    There’s a non-Dell repair utility (search for it; I’ve lost the link) that can generally replace / repair the Dell MBR loader, which naturally kills GRUB in the process. You can tweak the Windows boot process to present you with a menu that includes Linux (!), but the procedure seems fraught with peril.

    If the Restore Partition is still on the drive and still listed properly in the MBR table, then you can repair the MBR loader and restore XP to its as-shipped condition. Of course, if you did a partition backup soon after you got the laptop, you could do that yourself.

    MediaDirect

    Recent Dell laptops have a MediaDirect button with two functions.

    1. When the laptop is off, the MD button turns it on and boots the MediaDirect partition.
    2. When the laptop is on, the MD button fires up a version of the Dell-branded media player as an ordinary Windows program; it has no obvious advantages over Windows Media Center, but, yo, it’s Dell.

    It turns out that the MediaDirect button depends on an incredibly frail structure to pull off function 1. The embedded XP + media player dingus lives in a separate, hidden partition with partition ID DD that prevents it from appearing in the normal XP’s view of the machine.

    The BIOS checks for that partition when you poke the MD button, rewrites the partition table on the fly to change the ID and make the partition active, then boots the embedded XP. As part of the MD boot, another program evidently rewrites the partition table again to hide the evidence. The reliable sources differ on this. Opinion: WTF were they thinking?

    It is thus possible (nay, likely) that Something Bad Will Happen to kill the button’s function. If the BIOS can’t find the appropriate partition ID, it boots the first bootable partition it finds in the MBR. Most often, that’s the normal XP partition and away you go: the MediaDirect partition is just not available.

    Dell provides a “MediaDirect Repair” CD with which you can fix that issue. It’s a pretty big hammer, though, as it repartitions & reformats the entire drive, destroying the existing drive contents as it goes. It then reinstalls the Dell Utility partition and replaces the MBR. You manually reinstall XP, then run a setup program from the MD Repair CD that finishes setting up the MD partition.

    En passant, MD Repair also replaces the Dell Restore boot loader in the MBR and destroys the Restore partition, so you cannot get your as-shipped XP back. You must restore from the CD… except, of course, that Dell no longer ships XP Reinstallation CDs, expecting that you’ll use the restore partition in case of trouble. Whoops.

    MD allows you to create either one or two partitions on the drive, so you may have one giant XP-and-data partition or an XP “system” partition and a “data” partition. Any attempt to change that partition structure prevents MD from finishing its installation: XP will work fine, but MD will be dead. You cannot fix MD without starting all over again from scratch by blowing the drive away.

    Oh, yeah, almost forgot. Dell has, natch, several different versions of MediaDirect floating around, each with incompatible repair / restore / update requirements. None of what you’ve just read may apply to your PC.

    What a piece of crap!

    Fresh Windows

    While discovering all this, I did a clean install of XP from the Reinstallation CD (IIRC, I paid extra to get it when I bought the laptop: me being no fool!) with drivers from the Drivers CD. That’s a bit tedious, as the network interface doesn’t work until you feed in the driver CD, so Windows gets pissy. When XP finally sees the Internet, it’s not happy until it downloads all 100+ patches from the Mother Ship; it’s been a while since the XP SP2 version that’s rolled into that CD.

    This process does not install the usual bloatware and it turns out that bone-stock Windows XP is actually pretty snappy: it starts up quickly, shuts down even faster, and is generally pretty responsive. You can’t do very much with it, as you don’t have many programs, but … that’s Windows!

    I then reinstalled the Windows programs I use with the various & sundry hardware gadgets: device programmers, data loggers, note-taking tablet, stuff like that.

    It’s worth mentioning that my well-cared for and rarely used Windows turned into the usual dog-slow lump everybody complains about over the course of two years. Bit rot is real and you need a clean install to fix it.

    Bottom line(s)

    Dell Restore will be useful if I ever give the laptop away. I’ll zero the drive, restore the Restore partition from my backup, run the fixup program to get the right boot loader, boot into the Restore partition, restore XP to its as-shipped level, do the updates, and be done with it.

    I suppose I could do the restore, do a partition backup, restore MediaDirect with one partition for XP, install a base version of XP, finish the MD install, -then- restore XP. I suspect that wouldn’t actually work, which is why I haven’t tried it.

    MediaDirect isn’t compelling enough to make me want to futz with it that much, particularly as it appears to be incompatible with any Linux installation.

    Props to SystemRescueCD from http://www.sysresccd.org, which I used for all the partition backups, restores, copies, MBR editing, hex dumping, and so forth and so on. All my backups live on the file server in the basement and SRC makes network backups a cinch. Can’t (and shouldn’t) live without it.

    At this point, words fail me…

  • Laying On of Hands: Trackball Repair

    I have a pair of trackballs, one on each side of the keyboard, in the interest of dividing the strain on my wrists. The right-hand trackball, a Logitech Cordless Optical Trackman, suddenly stopped working one afternoon: the ball stops moving the pointer, the half-dozen buttons stop selecting things, the scroll wheel stops scrolling.

    I poke the resync buttons, replace the batteries, generally futz around, and discover that it’s actually working fine, but with an RF range measured in inches rather than feet. Not good; it’s on a pull-out shelf in the desk leg well and there’s no place for the receiver within a few inches. Besides, it’s supposed to work better than that.

    So I take the trackball apart, admire all the little bitty parts, reseat the ribbon cables, blow the fuzz out of the optical sensors, admit there’s not else much I can do, and reassemble it.

    Works like a champ again: I love zero-dollar fixes!

    I’m pretty sure this is Yet Another Ribbon Cable failure. Those cheap tin-on-tin connections get gassy after a few years, the resistance skyrockets, and (what with No User Serviceable Components Inside) the thing get tossed in the trash. Don’t get me started on RoHS.

    As part of all this, I discovered that desktop gadgets mostly use the 27 MHz band, with a few in the low VHF and Bluetooth at 2.4 GHz. I’d have laid money saying everything except BT was UHF, which just goes to show what I (don’t) know…

  • Blender repair

    Blender blade bearing repair
    Blender blade bearing repair

    So a while back I replaced the blade bearings in our cheap-after-rebate Farberware blender: a $20 pack of ten bearings (5 repairs!) from eBay for a $15 mixer.

    [Update: They’re 6 mm ID x 13 mm OD x 5 mm thick.]

    Of course, it turned into a shop project. I added spacers that held the shaft in the right position by eliminating some vertical play, dripped Loctite around the housing to fasten the outer races in place, silicone-lubed the seals, and generally did the last few dollars of engineering & manufacturing they couldn’t afford in a cheap blender.

    The blender now works better than it ever did before. It used to emit a horrible whining rattle and didn’t have much go-power. Now, while it’s not silent, it whirs solidly and engages the pancake batter with a vengeance.

    Blood no longer runs out of our ears…

    I think the original bearings were crap quality, badly sealed, poorly mounted, and failed so fast we never knew how the mixer should behave. Grumble, etc.

    Now that I know what to do, the next four repairs should go much quicker. If, indeed, the new bearings ever fail. The old ones were, IIRC, “dishwasher safe”, but I think that is a cruel hoax from the Planned Obsolescence & Early Failure Department. We’re rinsing the blade assembly by hand now.

    If I thought spending more on a blender would get better bearings, I’d probably still buy cheap-after-rebate ones just for the quality shop time…

    Memos to self: left-hand shaft thread, slightly shorter bottom extension, make stainless hardware.