The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Repairs

If it used to work, it can work again

  • Water Bottle Spring Cap Repair

    One of our nice aluminum water bottles hit the floor and, of course, the tiny little hinge shattered. It’s some wonderful engineering plastic, but just look at the leverage you can apply to those few millimeters of material. This is the sort of repair that can’t possibly be economically justified, but it pisses me right off when something that should be rugged turns out to be this fragile.

    The 2 mm steel hinge pin snapped the molded plastic center post of the hinge off the cap; we found the larger fragment, but the smaller one may lurk under the refrigerator for quite some time. Nothing bonds to this plastic and, if the post broke in the first place, adhesive isn’t going to help.

    Broken hinge
    Broken hinge

    Some doodling showed that a replacement hinge post should be machineable. The general idea was to square up the remaining chunk of the post, then attach a replacement hinge pivot with a screw. The post is almost exactly 1/4-inch thick, call it 6.2 mm, which means the right-angle feature under the pivot ought to keep the whole affair from twisting.

    Water Bottle Hinge
    Water Bottle Hinge

    I planned to leave the left side unmachined and cut it to fit by hand, but then figured, eh, just make it happen. I also expected to leave the area around the screw a lot thicker, with a neat counterbore around the head.

    This being a bash-to-fit, file-to-hide kind of project, I wrote a snippet of G-Code (at the bottom of the post) to chew out the part from a sheet of Lexan, then did the perpendicular hole & countersinking with manual CNC.

    No pix of that; I was working in a white-hot fury. Basically, I double-sticky-taped a slab of Lexan to a sacrificial sheet, clamped it to the tooling plate, and had at it with a 2 mm end mill. Cutting a 6.4 mm sheet with a 2 mm end mill is a bit iffy, as the flutes are just barely that long; the mill was armpit-deep in swarf and I was dribbling water into the cut to keep it cool.

    By the time I stopped for a picture, the situation looked like this.

    Replacement hinge part
    Replacement hinge part

    For what it’s worth, that’s the second part. I had to lower the screw head below the top of the half-round feature on the left end in order to clear the cap. That’s what CNC is really good for in my shop: make another one, just like the other one, only different exactly like that.

    I drilled a #50 (2-56 tap) hole in the cap pretty much by eye, using laser targeting to touch off.

    Laser aligning to hinge stub
    Laser aligning to hinge stub

    The hole wound up minutely too far inboard, but some filing cleaned up the stub edge and it was all good. I started the tap in the mill, held loosely in the chuck and turning it with my fingers, then finished up on the bench.

    The screw hole goes all the way through the cap. I filed the screw down so the end sits flush at the bottom of the cap, where the silicone rubber gasket should seal firmly against it.

    Here’s what the hinge looks like with all the bits assembled. The spring bears on the screw head, which makes the cap open with more snap than before. I put a little counterbore under the screw head, even after lowering it, to reduce the spring tension.

    Rebuilt hinge
    Rebuilt hinge

    The cap has a spring-loaded latch that never worked very well in the first place and this repair didn’t improve it. As nearly as I can tell, the molded ledge on the cap has a rounded edge that the latch simply cannot engage. This is beyond even my level of interest; Mary was accustomed to using the wire snap to hold the cap closed and that practice will continue.

    Works well enough for us and I got some Quality Shop Time on a rainy afternoon.

    The G-Code uses a slightly modified & simplified version of the tool length probe routines. I’m not convinced that using the G59.3 coordinate system is the right way to go, but everything else seems worse.

    
    (Water bottle hinge repair)
    (Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - June 2010)
    (Rough-cut 1/4-inch plate with clamp at +Y)
    (Sacrificial plate below, double-stick tape to secure)
    (Tool change @ G30 position above length probe)
    
    (-- Global dimensions & locations)
    
    #<_Stock_Thick> =        6.5                    (overall thickness)
    
    #<_Traverse_Z> =        1.0
    #<_Safe_Z> =            30.0                (clamp clearance)
    
    (-- Section controls)
    
    #<_Do_Outline> =    1
    #<_Do_Drill> =        1
    
    (-------------------)
    (-- Initialize new tool length at probe switch)
    (    Assumes G59.3 is still in machine units, returns in G54)
    
    #<_Probe_Speed> =        250            (set for something sensible in mm or inch)
    #<_Probe_Retract> =        1            (ditto)
    
    O<Probe_Tool> SUB
    
    G49                    (clear tool length compensation)
    G30                    (to probe switch)
    G59.3                (coord system 9)
    
    G38.2 Z0 F#<_Probe_Speed>        (trip switch on the way down)
    
    G91
    G0 Z#<_Probe_Retract>            (back off the switch)
    G90
    
    G38.2 Z0 F[#<_Probe_Speed> / 10]    (trip switch slowly)
    
    #<_ToolZ> = #5063                    (save new tool length)
    
    G43.1 Z[#<_ToolZ> - #<_ToolRefZ>]    (set new length)
    
    G54
    G30                    (return to safe level)
    
    O<Probe_Tool> ENDSUB
    
    (-------------------)
    (-- Initialize first tool length at probe switch)
    
    O<Probe_Init> SUB
    
    #<_ToolRefZ> = 0.0        (set up for first call)
    
    O<Probe_Tool> CALL
    
    #<_ToolRefZ> = #5063    (save trip point)
    
    G43.1 Z0                (tool entered at Z=0, so set it there)
    
    O<Probe_Init> ENDSUB
    
    (-------------------)
    
    (-- Get started ...)
    
    G40 G49 G54 G80 G90 G92.1 G94 G97 G98        (reset many things)
    
    M5
    
    (msg,Verify clamp to +Y, stock taped down)
    M0
    
    (msg,Verify X=0 at left edge, Y=0 on finished centerline)
    M0
    
    (msg,Verify tool touched off at Z=0 on surface)
    M0
    
    O<Probe_Init> CALL
    
    T0 M6                            (ensure first tool change pauses)
    
    (-- Drill the hinge pin hole)
    
    #<Pin_X> =                7.0
    #<Pin_Y> =                0.0
    
    #<Drill_Dia> =            2.06    (Drill diameter)
    #<Drill_Num> =            46        (Drill number)
    #<Tool_Num> =            146        (Tool number)
    #<Drill_Radius> =        [#<Drill_Dia> / 2]
    #<Drill_RPM> =            3000
    #<Drill_Feed> =         [#<Drill_Dia> * 100]
    
    #<Drill_Depth> =        [#<_Stock_Thick> + 2 * #<Drill_Dia>]
    
    O<Doing_Drill> IF [#<_Do_Drill>]
    
    (debug,Insert Num #<Drill_Num> drill)
    T#<Tool_Num> M6
    
    O<Probe_Tool> CALL
    
    (debug,Set spindle to #<Drill_RPM>)
    M0
    
    F#<Drill_Feed>
    
    G0 Z#<_Traverse_Z>
    
    G83 X#<Pin_X> Y#<Pin_Y> Z[0 - #<Drill_Depth>] R#<_Traverse_Z> Q[2 * #<Drill_Dia>]
    
    O<Doing_Drill> ENDIF
    
    (-- Mill outline)
    
    #<Hinge_Radius> =        3.75                        (half-width of hinge body)
    #<Cutout_Base> =        2.75
    
    #<Cutout_Screw> =        1.50
    #<Cutout_Screw_Y> =        [#<Hinge_Radius> - #<Cutout_Screw>]
    #<Cutout_Screw_A> =        ASIN [#<Cutout_Screw_Y> / #<Hinge_Radius>]
    #<Cutout_Screw_X> =        [#<Hinge_Radius> * COS [#<Cutout_Screw_A>]]
    
    #<Passes> =                3
    
    #<Mill_Dia> =            1.98            (end mill diameter)
    #<Tool_Num> =            20
    #<Mill_Radius> =        [#<Mill_Dia> / 2]
    #<Mill_RPM> =            3000
    #<Mill_Feed> =            100
    
    #<Entry_XL> =            [0 - #<Mill_Dia>]
    #<Entry_YL> =            [0 - 2 * #<Hinge_Radius>]
    
    O<Doing_Outline> IF [#<_Do_Outline>]
    
    (debug,Insert #<Mill_Dia> mm end mill)
    T#<Tool_Num> M6
    
    O<Probe_Tool> CALL
    
    (debug,Set spindle to #<Mill_RPM>)
    M0
    
    F#<Mill_Feed>
    
    G0 X0 Y[0 - 2 * #<Hinge_Radius>]    (get to comp entry point)
    G0 Z#<_Traverse_Z>
    
    G42.1 D#<Mill_Dia>                                    (cutter comp right)
    G1 X#<Pin_X> Y[0 - #<Hinge_Radius>]
    
    #<Step_Z> = [#<_Stock_Thick> / #<Passes>]
    #<Current_Z> = [0 - #<Step_Z>]
    
    O<Outline_Passes> REPEAT [#<Passes>]
    
    G2 J[0 - #<Hinge_Radius>] Z#<Current_Z>                (ramp down to cutting level)
    
    G3 Y#<Hinge_Radius> J#<Hinge_Radius>
    G3 X[#<Pin_X> - #<Cutout_Screw_X>] Y#<Cutout_Screw_Y> J[0 - #<Hinge_Radius>]
    G1 X0
    G1 Y[0 - [#<Hinge_Radius> - #<Cutout_Base>]]
    G1 X#<Pin_X>
    G1 Y[0 - #<Hinge_Radius>]
    
    #<Current_Z> = [#<Current_Z> - #<Step_Z>]
    
    O<Outline_Passes> ENDREPEAT
    
    G0 Z#<_Safe_Z>
    
    G40
    
    O<Doing_Outline> ENDIF
    
    G30                    (back to tool change position)
    
    (msg,Done!)
    
    M2
    
  • CycleAware Mirror Repair

    Original CycleAware Attachment
    Original CycleAware Attachment

    While installing the audio gear on our bike helmets, I found a defunct CycleAware Reflex helmet mirror in the big box o’ bike stuff.

    This pic shows that the mirror attaches to the boom through a clever ball joint that allows both rotation around the mirror’s long axis and a slight amount of tilt. Unfortunately, after a few years, the ball stem breaks and at least one of the socket petals snaps. It’s a nice  plastic design that’s totally unsuited to a few years of more-or-less daily bicycle travel.

    The repair was easy enough, particularly because I think the boom has enough adjustment range to handle the job on its own (and I don’t care about how it looks). I filed off the stem stub and milled a slot for a 2-56 machine screw along the back edge.

    Milling slot for screw
    Milling slot for screw

    Then you just slide a brass tube from the cutoff box over the end of the boom around some JB Weld epoxy, shove the screw into the blob, align the mirror with the boom, and let it cure.

    Reinforced attachment
    Reinforced attachment

    Although it’s not shown here, the helmet attachment is aligned with the mirror at right angles to the helmet bracket. That puts it in roughly the proper position with the boom bent as usual.

    I don’t actually plan to use this one for anything, but if I need a somewhat scuffed mirror in a pinch, well, it’s in the box!

  • New Tires for the Van: Overtightened Lug Nuts

    The shop spec says the lug nut torque shall be 104 newton·meter or an equally odd 77 lb·ft. Let’s not get into quibbles about the differences between lb·ft and ft·lb here, OK?

    Anyhow, based on the wildly differing and grossly excessive tire pressures left by the guys who installed the new tires, I figured the lug nuts would be over-torqued… as, indeed, they were. My bending-beam torque wrench goes up to 140 n·m and didn’t even come close to breaking those puppies loose.

    So I deployed a manly breaker bar and applied most of my weight to the far end. A back of the envelope guesstimate says they were well over 200 n·m, with a few grunt outliers.

    Yes, the breakaway torque can be higher than the tightening torque, but they were far beyond even that level.

    Lubed the threads, tightened to spec, and it’s all good. I’ll check them next week just to be sure, but sheesh if we had to fix a flat on the road, it would have gotten ugly.

  • Rewiring Cheese Slicers

    Cheese slicers
    Cheese slicers

    My ladies favor hard cheeses that are murder on cheese slicers. I just replaced the wires on a pair of favorite slicers, using 0.020 inch stainless wire. That’s thicker than the 14-mil wire they came with, so I’m hoping it’ll last longer.

    Being thicker, it’s also harder to push through the cheese, so it’s subject to more force and might break sooner. Ah, tradeoffs…

    What I really want are monomolecular wires that can cut through anything…

    I’ve suggested using a knife on the Romano and Gruyere, reserving the slicers for Cheddar and other sissy cheeses…

    Oh, the red stuff on the right-hand slicer is Liquid Electrical Tape. The handle is raw aluminum and leaves smudges all over the place. I’m assuming the layer doesn’t have much lead content, but who knows?

  • McCulloch Chainsaw Handle Repair

    Shaped bolt head
    Shaped bolt head

    We acquired a McCulloch chainsaw from a friend in “Used to worked fine” condition. I hate small internal combustion engines, two-strokers in particular, but sometimes ya can’t look a gift horse in the orifice.

    Anyhow, the only real repair needed was a new bolt for the anti-kickback clutch handle. For unknown reasons, McCulloch uses a non-standard head that, fortunately, can be carved out of a stock bolt.

    Reshaped bolt in place
    Reshaped bolt in place

    I got the two parallel sides a bit closer together than was required; if I were to do it again I would squish some modeling clay into the recess, make some measurements, and get it right the first time. I’m certain the original was much fancier, but this will suffice.

    Nylock nut on trimmed bolt
    Nylock nut on trimmed bolt

    Trim the bolt to fit and a nylock nut on the outside should hold it in place forever more.

    The repair was prompted by a late winter storm that dropped a huge branch from our neighbor’s tree next to the house. We’d splurged on underground utilities when we upgraded the service entry to 200 A and this is exactly why…

    [Update: A great and completely off-topic discussion about schematic & PCB programs showed up in the comments. I’ve extracted those into a separate post so folks can actually find the discussion with a sane set of search keywords…]

  • Zire 71 Flex Circuit Repair

    The classic failure mode for a Palm Zire 71 is to stop charging. This might happen when the lithium-ion battery craps out and needs replacing, but the flex circuit between the cradle connector and the main board seem to go bad around that time, too. That’s what eventually killed my first Zire, so after I stuffed a new battery in the second, I tried fixing the first.

    Here’s the flex circuit in its natural habitat (photo from the second Zire).

    Flex Circuit and Components
    Flex Circuit and Components

    Here’s a picture looking down along the inside edge of the connector at the the flex circuit in the photo above. Notice the cracks at the junction of the soldered terminals and the copper flex traces. Click the pic for more detail…

    Cracked Flex Traces
    Cracked Flex Traces

    I suspect some of those cracks came from my ham-fisted repairs over the years of owning the thing, but the fact of the matter is that many other owners who didn’t take their Zire apart have much the same charging / USB problems. I think the connector moves slightly when it’s jammed into the charging cradle and that’s enough to fracture those joints over the course of a few years.

    Anyhow, cutting the flex just beyond the connector pins and scraping off the insulating layer with a sharp razor knife reveals the traces.

    Flex Traces Exposed
    Flex Traces Exposed

    This end of the flex circuit has two additional ground traces bracketing the 16 traces leading to the exposed connector pins. As a result, the connector body is firmly grounded. The fat trace on the top is a paired ground conductor. The fat trace in the middle is another ground.

    Here are some of the connections at the other end of the circuit, where it plugs into the Zire PCB. Note that the shutter button traces wind up in the midst of all the traces with numbers corresponding to the external connector pinout found there. The speaker traces lie outside the ground at the bottom edge of the picture above.

    Flex connector pinout at main PCB
    Flex connector pinout at main PCB

    With that in hand, I untwisted a hunk of stranded hookup wire to get some fine copper wires and soldered them to the flex circuit traces. Note that the two outermost traces are soldered directly to the metal shell around the alignment / latch holes. The red stuff at the very end of the flex circuit is orange nail polish that will, in theory, keep the new wires from shorting to the copper shield layer in the flex. The silvery shape at the lower middle is the shutter button.

    New Leads in Place
    New Leads in Place

    The wires turned out to be just slightly too long; were I to do it again, I’d pay more attention to getting the edge of the flex exactly where it was when I cut it off.

    A layer of Kapton tape insulates and stabilizes the wires. A layer of copper foil tape atop the Kapton gets soldered to the connector shell for static dissipation, but I’m not convinced it was necessary. This view is from the other side of the flex, with more nail polish along the edge to glue things down.

    Flex with Nail Polish on Kapton
    Flex with Nail Polish on Kapton

    A layer of Kapton on that side pretty well finished it off; I took some pains to press the two adhesive layers together around each of the wires.

    Solder the speaker back in place and reinstall in reverse order, folding the new wires gently into position. That’s when I found out they were a few millimeters too long. I left ’em be.

    Here’s the final result, minus the shutter button and bezel.

    Repaired Flex in Place
    Repaired Flex in Place

    From this point, all the bits fit back together the way they used to.

    While all this was going on, I won a pair of Zire 71s on eBay, plus a wireless keyboard (which solves a problem I don’t have), plus a known-bad Z22 (dead digitizer), plus a bunch of other odds and ends, for a whopping $25 delivered. I was so hot to get the pair that I even upped my bid to $45… there were no other bidders.

    Now I have a cold backup for the hot backup for my PDA!

    Amazingly enough, the (presumably OEM) batteries in the new-to-me Zires charged up and work fine, so I need not meddle with them for a year or two.

  • New Tires For the Van

    So I bought 530 bucks worth of new tires for the van; it’s ten years old with 66k on the clock. Picked the most suitable ones:

    • Near the top of the Consumer Reports list
    • Best constellation of features for our use
    • Available at the local tire shop

    CR is essentially the only place that does actual across-the-board tests; you can disagree with their methodology, but it’s pretty much the only game in town.

    I wound up at the local tire shop after bouncing off one of the online sources. In this case, tire + shipping + installation costs more online; the local shop was one of the online source’s installers.

    So I went direct. They’re aboveboard: the balance + installation charge is the same no matter where the tires come from.

    Had a 10:00 appointment and it took 90 minutes to get out of the shop. Not impressed.

    The tire pressure monitor light came on halfway home. Well, OK, maybe it’s noticed the tires are bigger? But it’s a differential rotation counter, sooo… that’s not the problem.

    Checked the pressure after letting the tires cool off for a few hours.

    • 37 – Left rear
    • 32 – Right rear
    • 40 – Left front
    • 34 – Right front

    The pressure monitor was definitely doing its job!

    Adjusted them all to 36 psi (hard, but we’ll see how it rides), reset the monitor, and it’s all good.

    Factory trained and certified mechanics, my obscene-gerund deleted-noun.

    Oh, and the lug nuts were evidently tightened by Andre the Giant… gotta break those suckers free before we do much more driving!