The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: MK4

Prusa Mk 4 3D printer with MMU3 feeder

  • Smashed Glass: 3D Printed Coaster Epoxy Fill

    Smashed Glass: 3D Printed Coaster Epoxy Fill

    After positioning the smashed glass fragments atop reflective metalized paper in the 3D printed coaster base, I poured epoxy over everything and, after popping some bubbles, left it to cure:

    Smashed glass printed coaster - detail
    Smashed glass printed coaster – detail

    I sprayed the white-ish fragments (on the left) with satin-finish clear rattlecan “paint” in the hopes it would keep epoxy out of the cracks between the glass cuboids and leave the highly reflective air gaps. While it did a reasonable job of sealing, it bonded poorly with the epoxy and produced a dull surface finish.

    The unsprayed fragments (on the right) turned out better, although the one in the upper right has a thin air bubble / layer on top. The unsealed cracks between the cuboids show well against the reflective layers, so I think spraying the fragments isn’t worth the effort.

    The printed base has a 1 mm tall rim to retain the epoxy:

    Printed Coaster Layout - solid model
    Printed Coaster Layout – solid model

    I mixed enough epoxy to fill half the volume of a disk with the same overall OD and depth (V = h × π × d²/4), which turned out to be barely enough produce a level surface at the rim. There didn’t seem that much epoxy left on the various measuring / mixing cups, but next time I’ll round upward.

    Many of the bubbles emerged from below the metalized paper, as well as between the glass and paper, so next time:

    • Set up a level platform with a sacrificial cover
    • Omit the adhesive sheet under the metallized paper
    • Pour a little epoxy into the recesses
    • Squish the metallized paper into place
    • Pour more epoxy to cover the paper
    • Gently squish the glass fragments into place
    • Ease more epoxy around the fragments
    • Chivvy the bubbles away
    • Fill to the rim

    The top isn’t exactly flat and has some dull areas, so at some point I want to make it flat with 220 grit sandpaper, work up to some 3000 grit paper I’ve been saving for a special occasion, then finish it off with Novus polish. Which seems like enough hassle to keep the coaster under my sippy cup for a while.

  • Smashed Glass: 3D Printed Coaster Base & Metallized Paper Reflectors

    Smashed Glass: 3D Printed Coaster Base & Metallized Paper Reflectors

    The motivation for making Yet Another Coaster was to see if combining a few techniques I’ve recently learned would produce a nicer result.

    Spoiler: Yup, with more to be learned and practiced.

    This is a somewhat nonlinear narrative reminding me of things to do and not do in the future, so don’t treat it as a direct how-to set of instructions.

    Thus far, the best way to highlight fragments of smashed glass has been to put them atop an acrylic mirror:

    Smashed Glass Coaster 2 - fragment detail
    Smashed Glass Coaster 2 – fragment detail

    But a 3 mm acrylic mirror layer makes for a rather thick coaster:

    Smashed Glass Coaster 5 - edge alignment A
    Smashed Glass Coaster 5 – edge alignment A

    The glass fragments sit inside holes in the next two (or three or whatever) acrylic layers, which must have a total thicknesses slightly more than the glass thickness and remain properly aligned while assembling the whole stack:

    Smashed Glass Coaster 5 - alignment pin
    Smashed Glass Coaster 5 – alignment pin

    Bonus: all that cutting generates an absurd amount of acrylic scrap. I eventually put much of it to good use, but not producing it in the first place would be a Good Thing …

    So 3D print the entire base, which requires generating a solid model with recesses for the fragments:

    Printed Coaster Layout - solid model
    Printed Coaster Layout – solid model

    Because there’s no real justification for an optical-quality mirror under smashed glass, use reflective metallized paper in the recesses as reflectors:

    Smashed glass printed coaster - metallized paper assembly
    Smashed glass printed coaster – metallized paper assembly

    The glass is more-or-less greenish-blueish, so I used a strip of green metallized paper that made the glass fragments green. Obviously there’s some room for choice down there.

    Both the base and the reflectors use outlines of the fragments, so I started with a scan of the approximate layout in GIMP:

    Smashed Glass - 4in - group A - tweaked
    Smashed Glass – 4in – group A – tweaked

    I traced the outline of each fragment using the Scissors Select Tool, which lays line segments along the sharpest gradient between clicked points, then switched into Quick Mask mode to adjust & smooth the results:

    Smashed Glass paths - quick mask
    Smashed Glass paths – quick mask

    That’s the result after sketching & saving all the paths as separate SVG files to allow importing them individually into InkScape, OpenSCAD, and LightBurn.

    Which turned out to be suboptimal, as it let me write an off-by-one blooper omitting the last file from the OpenSCAD model:

    fn = "Fragment layout - 4in.svg";
    fp = ["A","B","C","D","E","F"];
    <snippage>
            for (p = fp)
              import(fn,id=str("Fragment ",p));
    
    

    A better choice puts all the paths into a single named group, saved as a single SVG file, then importing that group from the file using its name, along these lines:

    fn = "Fragment layout - 4in.svg";
    fg = ["Fragments"];
    <snippage>
            import(fn,id=fg);
    

    It’s not clear if I can do that directly from GIMP by saving all the paths in a single file, then importing that lump into Inkscape as a group, but it’ll go something like that.

    After getting the fragment paths into Inkscape, add a 0.5 mm offset to each path to clear any non-vertical edges. This will be checked with the template cut using LightBurn as described below.

    Add a 1 mm rim around the outside, with the 4 inch OD matching the usual PSA cork base:

    Fragment layout - 4in
    Fragment layout – 4in

    Now’s the time to nudge / rotate the outlines so they have at least a millimeter of clearance on all sides / ends, because that’s about as thin a section of printed plastic as you want.

    Locating the center of the OD (and, thus, everything inside) at the lower-left corner of the Inkscape page will put them at the OpenSCAD origin. I have set Inkscape to have its origin at the lower left, rather than the default upper left, so your origin may vary.

    Select one of the paths:

    Fragment layout - Inkscape A
    Fragment layout – Inkscape A

    Then set the ID in its Object Properties:

    Fragment layout - Inkscape A - properties
    Fragment layout – Inkscape A – properties

    There is an interaction between the name over in the Layers and Objects window, which apparently comes from the GIMP path name for the imported fragments, and the resulting ID and Label in the Object Properties window. However, renaming an object on the left, as for the Rim and Perimeter circles, does not set their ID or Label on the right. Obviously, I have more learning to do before this goes smoothly.

    With everything laid out and named and saved in an SVG file, the OpenSCAD program is straightforward (and now imports all the fragments):

    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    
    NumSides = 4*4*3*4;
    
    fn = "Fragment layout - 4in.svg";
    fp = ["A","B","C","D","E","F","G"];
    
    FragmentThick = 5.0;
    
    BaseThick = 1.0;
    RimHeight = 1.5;
    
    union() {
      linear_extrude(h=BaseThick)
        import(fn,id="Perimeter",$fn=NumSides);
      linear_extrude(h=BaseThick + FragmentThick + RimHeight)
        difference() {
          import(fn,id="Perimeter",$fn=NumSides);
          import(fn,id="Rim",$fn=NumSides);
      }
      up(BaseThick - 0.05)
        linear_extrude(h=FragmentThick)
          difference() {
            import(fn,id="Perimeter",$fn=NumSides);
            for (p = fp)
              import(fn,id=str("Fragment ",p));
          }
    }
    
    

    Which squirts out the solid model appearing above.

    Feeding it into PrusaSlicer turns the model into something printable:

    Printed Coaster Layout - slicer
    Printed Coaster Layout – slicer

    And after supper I had one in my hands.

    Before doing that, however, import the same SVG file into LightBurn, as on the left:

    Printed Coaster Layout - LightBurn
    Printed Coaster Layout – LightBurn

    On the right, duplicate it, put the inner Rim on a tool layer, put the rest on a layer set to cut chipboard, and make a template to verify those holes fit around the fragments:

    Smashed glass printed coaster - fragment test fit
    Smashed glass printed coaster – fragment test fit

    Which a few didn’t, explaining why I go to all that trouble. Iterate through GIMP → paths → SVG → Inkscape → LightBurn until it’s all good. Obviously, you do this before you get too far into OpenSCAD, but they all derive from the Inkscape layout, so there’s not a lot of wasted motion.

    The middle LightBurn layout insets the fragment outlines by 0.25 mm to ensure the paper fits easily and puts them on a layer set to cut metallized paper. Those fragments then get duplicated and rearranged within the rectangle on the top to fit a strip of metallized paper from the scrap box. Fire The Laser to cut them out and stick them to the bottom of their corresponding 3D printed recesses with leftover snippets of craft adhesive sheet as shown above.

    I had originally intended to cover the bottom of the entire sheet of metallized paper with an adhesive sheet, but realized the whole affair was going to be submerged in epoxy, so just making sure the paper didn’t float away would suffice.

    Next, mix up some epoxy …

  • Smashed Glass: 3D Printed Coaster

    Smashed Glass: 3D Printed Coaster

    Having recently had to move the flat box of shattered glass to get something from behind it, I figured I could apply new techniques to old material :

    Smashed glass printed coaster - oblique view
    Smashed glass printed coaster – oblique view

    This is something of a test case to restart the whole process, so it has a few bloopers. This post covers the results, with more detail on the process to follow.

    Arrange some good-looking shattered glass fragments within the 4 inch circle on the fixture:

    Smashed glass printed coaster - fragment test fit
    Smashed glass printed coaster – fragment test fit

    Scan it, trace the outlines into paths using GIMP, label the paths in Inkscape, import into LightBurn to laser-cut the chipboard disk in that picture to verify enough clearance around the fragments, import into OpenSCAD, and produce a solid model for PrusaSlicer:

    Printed Coaster Layout - slicer
    Printed Coaster Layout – slicer

    While it’s printing, laser-cut green metallized paper to serve as a reflecting layer below the glass, then affix the paper to the bottom of the recesses:

    Smashed glass printed coaster - metallized paper assembly
    Smashed glass printed coaster – metallized paper assembly

    During that process I discovered one of the fragment recesses didn’t make it from the Inkscape SVG file to the OpenSCAD model:

    Smashed glass printed coaster - missing fragment
    Smashed glass printed coaster – missing fragment

    Like I said: bloopers. That fragment now has its place in the OpenSCAD code and the slicer preview above, not that I have matching fragments to build another one.

    Put all but one fragment in their places, pour clear epoxy over everything, pop bubbles for a while, then let it cure overnight:

    Smashed glass printed coaster - front view
    Smashed glass printed coaster – front view

    Stick a PSA cork disk on the bottom and it’s ready for service.

    I’ve seen worse … :grin:

  • Delta Model 1400 Shower Faucet Knob Insert

    Delta Model 1400 Shower Faucet Knob Insert

    Having just replaced the shower faucet cartridge, the knob insert (probably from 1998, according to a label on the shower stall) could also use some improvement:

    Delta 1400 Shower Faucet knob insert - front
    Delta 1400 Shower Faucet knob insert – front

    That oblong blue tint is water. The shattered sections formerly had small fingers holding the insert into the knob:

    Delta 1400 Shower Faucet knob insert - rear
    Delta 1400 Shower Faucet knob insert – rear

    Pry the aluminum disk out of the insert and scan it:

    Delta Shower Faucet - label scan
    Delta Shower Faucet – label scan

    There is no feature in the knob to capture the semicircular notch at the arrow tip, so the disk can rotate as it pleases. I think the arrow should point to the OFF label on the bezel when the water is turned off, but who knows?

    Import it into Inkscape, whereupon it becomes obvious the printed legend is not centered on the disk, lay suitable construction lines & circles, then draw similar shapes:

    Delta Shower Faucet - Inkscape layout
    Delta Shower Faucet – Inkscape layout

    I located the circles at the Inkscape page corner to put their center at the (0,0) origin with the arrow pointed along the X axis to simplify importing it into OpenSCAD.

    The three useful graphic features go on separate layers so OpenSCAD can treat them as separate objects:

    Delta Shower Faucet - Inkscape layers
    Delta Shower Faucet – Inkscape layers

    Build the overall insert shape in OpenSCAD:

    difference() {
      union() {
        tube(Insert[LENGTH],id=Insert[ID],od=Insert[OD],anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP)
          cyl(FaceThick,d=Insert[OD],anchor=TOP);
      }
      zrot(KnobAngle)
        down(Protrusion)
          cube([2*Insert[OD],IndexWidth,Insert[LENGTH] - FaceThick + Protrusion],anchor=BOTTOM);
    }
    

    The KnobAngle rotation comes from the angle of the features inside the knob that locate the insert, which are aligned horizontally here, but at about 30° when the knob is installed on the faucet :

    Delta 1400 Shower Faucet knob - insert recess features
    Delta 1400 Shower Faucet knob – insert recess features

    The knob shined up surprisingly well for being three decades old; that photo is as-found.

    Import the Inkscape graphics into OpenSCAD and align them an itsy above the top of the insert structure to prevent Z fighting without triggering the slicer into adding another layer:

    up(Insert[LENGTH] - LabelThick + 0.01)
      color("DarkSlateGray")
        linear_extrude(LabelThick)
          import(LabelFN,center=false,layer="Angle Indicator");
    up(Insert[LENGTH] - LabelThick + 0.01)
      color("Red")
        linear_extrude(LabelThick)
          import(LabelFN,center=false,layer="Hot Arc");
    up(Insert[LENGTH] - LabelThick + 0.01)
      color("Blue")
        linear_extrude(LabelThick)
          import(LabelFN,center=false,layer="Cold Arc");
    
    

    Those three shapes must be handled separately, lest OpenSCAD combine them into one thing that PrusaSlicer won’t recognize as distinct shapes. There’s no need to subtract them from the main insert shape, but getting separate colors to come out right is definitely not straightforward.

    Which looks like this, with cheerful colors that need not correspond to the printer filaments:

    Delta Shower Faucet Insert - solid model
    Delta Shower Faucet Insert – solid model

    Normally I have a set of Build transformations to orient the thing for printing, but doing a simple rotation to put the top down on the platform also blows away the separate nature of the graphics.

    I use the EIA color code sequence in PrusaSlicer so I can identify the filament number by eye:

    Shower Fauce Knob Insert - PrusaSlicer preview
    Shower Fauce Knob Insert – PrusaSlicer preview

    A little while later:

    Delta 1400 Shower Faucet knob insert - installed
    Delta 1400 Shower Faucet knob insert – installed

    The insert is a loose fit in the knob, held in place by good double-sided foam tape to the screw securing the knob. I decided to not bother with little fingers, because I loves me some simple removable adhesive action.

    Yeah, you can buy an entire replacement knob for ten bucks, but where’s the fun in that?

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Delta shower faucet knob insert
    // Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
    // 2025-08-09
    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    /* [Hidden] */
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.01;
    NumSides = 4*3*4;
    $fn=NumSides;
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    LabelFN = "Shower Fauce Knob Insert.svg";
    LabelThick = 0.8;
    KnobAngle = 30; // horizontal to index features
    IndexWidth = 2.5; // slot to fit knob locating features
    Insert = [33.5,37.7,7.0]; // slides into knob
    FaceThick = 1.6;
    //———-
    // Construct it in the obvious orientation
    // Flip it in the slicer to preserve the artwork for separate filaments!
    difference() {
    union() {
    tube(Insert[LENGTH],id=Insert[ID],od=Insert[OD],anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP)
    cyl(FaceThick,d=Insert[OD],anchor=TOP);
    }
    zrot(KnobAngle)
    down(Protrusion)
    cube([2*Insert[OD],IndexWidth,Insert[LENGTH] – FaceThick + Protrusion],anchor=BOTTOM);
    }
    // Must be handled separately to produce separate objects for different filaments
    up(Insert[LENGTH] – LabelThick + 0.01)
    color("DarkSlateGray")
    linear_extrude(LabelThick)
    import(LabelFN,center=false,layer="Angle Indicator");
    up(Insert[LENGTH] – LabelThick + 0.01)
    color("Red")
    linear_extrude(LabelThick)
    import(LabelFN,center=false,layer="Hot Arc");
    up(Insert[LENGTH] – LabelThick + 0.01)
    color("Blue")
    linear_extrude(LabelThick)
    import(LabelFN,center=false,layer="Cold Arc");

  • Hose Fitting Grip Redux

    Hose Fitting Grip Redux

    Replacing the sun-rotted hose for Mary’s garden called for a new grip, because of course all hose fittings are different:

    Garden Hose Fitting Grip - installed
    Garden Hose Fitting Grip – installed

    The ridges on the fitting looked close enough to half-cylinders and the fitting wasn’t tapered enough to worry about:

    Hose Fitting Grip - simple - solid model
    Hose Fitting Grip – simple – solid model

    The OD came from the original grip, because it neatly fits Mary’s hand, and the nubbles are round-end cylinders.

    Got it done the day after the old hose split, glued it on the hose with E6000+, installed it the next morning, whereupon the weather delivered three inches of rain. It’ll get screwed onto the faucet in a few days …

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Hose fitting grip – simple plastic extrusion
    // Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
    // 2025-07-30
    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    /* [Hidden] */
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1;
    NumSides = 3*2*4;
    $fn=NumSides;
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    NumRibs = 8;
    RibOD = 3.0;
    GripOA = [32.5,66.0,16.0];
    KnobBallOD = 6.0;
    union() {
    difference() {
    tube(GripOA[LENGTH],id=GripOA[ID],od=GripOA[OD],orounding=2.0,anchor=BOTTOM);
    for (a = [0:NumRibs-1])
    rotate(a*360/NumRibs)
    right(GripOA[ID]/2) down(Protrusion)
    cyl(GripOA[LENGTH] + 2*Protrusion,d=RibOD,anchor=BOTTOM);
    }
    for (a = [0:NumSides-1])
    rotate(a*360/NumSides)
    right(GripOA[OD]/2)
    up(GripOA[LENGTH]/2)
    cyl(GripOA[LENGTH]/2,d=KnobBallOD,rounding=KnobBallOD/2);
    }
  • PolyDryer Humidity: 30 Days Later

    PolyDryer Humidity: 30 Days Later

    A month after the last desiccant change, the silica gel looks like this:

    Polydryer - 30 day beads
    Polydryer – 30 day beads

    The top cup contains fresh-from-stock dry (regenerated) silica gel beads and the others, left-to-right and top-to-bottom, come from PolyDryer boxes:

    Material%RHWeight – gIncrease – gWater gain – %
    PETG White1426.81.87.2
    PETG Black2026.81.87.2
    PETG Orange1326.81.87.2
    PETG Blue1526.91.97.6
    PETG-CF Blue1927.42.49.6
    PETG-CF Black2827.32.39.2
    PETG-CF Gray2727.12.18.4
    TPU Clear1326.81.87.2
    Sum of weights215.98.0
    Measured weight216.38.1

    I expected some correlation between the indicated humidity and the weight of adsorbed water vapor, but that’s not the case.

    The bottom row suggests there’s also little-to-no correlation between bead color and humidity, at least at this low end of the scale.

    The indicator cards tucked into the boxes roughly correlate with the meter reading, but they’re much easier to interpret in person.

    The old chart of adsorption vs. relative humidity suggests the results are plausible, with the 27-ish %RH being higher than you’d expect from 9-ish % adsorption:

    Desiccant adsorption vs humidity
    Desiccant adsorption vs humidity

    So they’re all set up with 25 g of fresh silica gel, although the boxes no long have the same humidity meters they started with. This likely makes little difference, as I have no way to calibrate them.

  • Polymaker PolyDryer Desiccant: Trust, But Verify

    Polymaker PolyDryer Desiccant: Trust, But Verify

    The startup ritual for a PolyDryer box’s humidity meter includes:

    • Opening a small sealed bag containing …
    • The DO NOT EAT desiccant, to be cut open and …
    • Poured into the meter box

    Which looks like this:

    Polydryer - 14 pctRH - meter - white PETG
    Polydryer – 14 pctRH – meter – white PETG

    However, the desiccant packets for the most recent pair of boxes (intended to simplify changing the desiccant in the collection feeding the MMU3 atop the Prusa MK4 3D printer) produced this:

    Polydryer - as-received desiccant
    Polydryer – as-received desiccant

    The silica gel in the left cup looks OK-ish, maybe a little dark, but the fresh-from-the-bag beads in the right cup are crying out for regeneration after having adsorbed about all the water vapor they can.

    If you were using that silica gel in its original DO NOT EAT bag, where you can’t see what it’s telling you, you might wonder why it wasn’t doing such a great job of drying the box + filament. The same could happen with a bag of non-indicating gel, along the lines of what I was using a decade ago.

    So I dumped both in the Needs Rgeneration bottle and filled both meters with 25 g of fresh silica gel.