Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Wedding photographers have trouble getting the proper exposure for both the bride and the groom, too.
Only one of the 32 legs came loose from the platform:
Gizo spider – failed leg
The upper part of the leg captured the loose segment and glommed it into a blob:
Gizo spider – failed leg – detail
Fortunately, one of the clearance test pieces was an isolated leg and joint, so I amputated the grisly mess, matched the cut in the test piece, and hot-melt-glued the pieces together:
Gizo spider – spliced leg
Not quite perfect, but good enough for the purpose.
Given the 3% failure rate, I think the legs show such small contact areas really do justify a brim. Adding a brim to the main body would mess up the joints, but I think PrusaSlicer can add brims to specific parts. More study is needed.
Centering the autofocus “pen” = switch on the peg in the back puts the beam dead-center in the fixture, with the notches as comfort marks. The top of the peg is flush with the center notch, so the machine should be properly focused at that level after a focus operation.
Obviously, your laser has a different pen location, as will this one the next time I fiddle with anything around the nozzle.
The general idea is to tape a target to the ramp, with some attention to flattening the paper (tape the edges in critical spots as needed) & putting its zero at the center marks, align the fixture to the laser path along the X axis & secure it with a few magnets, then burn a single line at low power along the length of the scale:
Ramp Test Fixture – laser line
The mark will be thinnest in the region with the best focus, which should be centered around the 0.0 mark in the middle. In that photo, the thinnest section runs from about -2.0 to +1.0, although (at least for me) it does take some squinting to be sure.
The ramp has a 1:10 = 5.71° slope to spread 1 mm of vertical focus across 10 mm of horizontal distance. If you’re being finicky, you should rescale the targets to correct the 0.5% cosine error, but IMO it’s irrelevant for this purpose.
A few more tests varying the focus distance by a millimeter:
Ramp Test Targets – 15 16 mm
AFAICT, setting the controller’s Focus Distance to 16 mm is about right. That puts the focal point 18 mm below the nozzle, as shown in the earlier post, and is pretty much what I’ve been using all along.
The OpenSCAD code as a GitHub Gist, along with a simplified target layout in SVG format:
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The Gizo spider’s eight legs built right up to the top without incident:
Gizo spider – nearly complete
The Articulated Spider assembled from many flat pieces distributed over the sheet, with no excitement at all:
Articulated and Gizo spiders
The orange parts printed in a separate operation (the eyes push in and glue on, respectively), because multi-material printing doesn’t make sense unless there’s no other way.
Those were test cases of joint fit without any model adjustments. The Gizo prints fully assembled and, as with the Steamopus, all eight joints worked smoothly after a few careful break-in motions. Each of the Articulated Spider’s many joints snapped together without incident, but benefited from a dot of silicone grease apiece.
Long years ago, the Bakelite (or some such) lid on our rarely used teapot disintegrated, whereupon I replaced it with an aluminum sheet and metal knob. Admittedly, a metal knob was not the brightest idea I ever had, but it sufficed for a few uses over the intervening decades.
Mary hosted this month’s quilting bee and, after having someone else bring a larger teapot for the occasion, suggested I Make. A. Better. Knob. After a bit of searching, this statue seemed appropriate for the season:
Skull teapot knob
It’s printed with PETG filament that should easily withstand the no-more-than-boiling-water temperatures found atop a teapot.
I imported the original model into PrusaSlicer, shrank it to 50 mm tall and simplified the mesh, exported it as an OBJ file, imported it into OpenSCAD, mashed it together with a 1/4-20 threaded_nut from BOSL2, added the finger protector, and got a suitable model:
Teapot Knob – solid model bottom view
The as-printed threads were a bit snug with $slop=0, but running the screw in with a dot of silicone grease to ease the way worked fine.
I should rebuild the whole lid in PETG-CF sometime.
Being an Old Guy, I lift dumbbell weights after bike rides for load-bearing upper-body exercise, but need a few more dumbbell nuts (a.k.a. “collars”) to simplify adjusting the weights for each set. Such things are commercially available, but the reviews suggest abysmally bad thread QC and a high return rate.
Given that I treat my toys carefully, this should suffice:
Dumbbell Nut – finished
Start with a scan of a steel nut in GIMP:
Dumbbell Nut – scan
Blow out the contrast, trace it, smooth out some irregularities, get a mask:
Dumbbell Nut – mask
Select by color, convert the selection to a path, save as SVG, import into OpenSCAD, add a nut with threads from the incomparably useful BOSL2 library, extrude a few features, and this pops out:
Dumbbell Nut – solid model
Run it through PrusaSlicer, print on the MK4, and iterate a few times to get everything right:
Dumbbell Nut – test pieces
I naively thought the threads were something standard like Acme, but they’re full-frontal custom trapezoidal. I knew the first pass would be wrong, so the small hex nut on the left started the whole process. Upper left is a revised Acme thread with all the other features, lower middle is the custom trapezoidal thread, and the nut on the upper right worked. Make three more, just like the first one, enjoying the magic of 3D printing.
Draw the bumper washer in LightBurn based on the dimensions in the OpenSCAD code, cut a set from stamp-pad rubber & adhesive sheet, then assemble:
Dumbbell Nut – assembly
As the saying goes, we got nuts:
Dumbbell Nut – installed
The gray PETG-CF looks black against a white background and gray against black iron.
With a set of precisely fitting nuts in hand, I discovered one of the four bars in my weight sets is slightly larger than the others, so the code now produces an embiggened root diameter and I have two spares.
The garden hose leading from the standpipe / hose bibs outside Mary’s garden to her drip irrigation plumbing has an octagonal fitting requiring more torque than her hand can easily produce. I offered to make a larger grip for the fitting, which amounts to a disk with a grippy rim sized to her hand and an interior opening suitable for gluing to the fitting.
A couple of laser-cut MDF sizing prototypes accompanied me to the garden:
Hose Fitting Grip – MDF prototype
The springy fingers around the fitting soak up the inevitable distortions found in a battered hose and will eventually be filled with adhesive to lock the grip in place.
MDF being obviously the wrong material for a permanent installation, the final grip will be 3D printed, with the LightBurn layout modified to produce the internal structure:
Hose Fitting Grip – LightBurn layers
From left to right:
The stacked pieces in order of printing
Main grip with springy fingers
Spacer keeping the fingers away from the narrower opening
Support layer
Narrow opening to align the grip with the end of the fitting
Exporting the SVG images and making a bank shot off Inkscape to create layer names:
Hose Fitting Grip – Inkscape layers
The ascending layer name + numbers allow a simple OpenSCAD program to extract the SVG shapes by name, extrude them to the proper thickness, put them at the proper height, then combine the result:
The hideous mess generating the Level vector happens because OpenSCAD does not have mutable variables and I hate retyping numbers. One can use a recursive function to add the values, but copypasta makes more sense in this case.
Which produces this solid model, with garish colors for pedagogic purposes:
Hose Fitting Grip – top – solid model
The thin yellow band will be one thread thick to provide support for the green layer with a smaller ID than the springs below it. The gray layer below the yellow is the air gap above the springs.
Peering inside the bottom shows the (gray) layer providing clearance between the springs and the (yellow) support layer:
Hose Fitting Grip – bottom interior – solid model
Exporting the model as a 3mf file, importing it into PrusaSlicer, and slicing it with suitable parameters (Extrusion Multipler = 0.8) does what you’d expect. This top view shows the internal structure just below the support bridge across the middle:
Hose Fitting Grip – spring detail – PrusaSlicer
Printing it in gray PETG-CF was uneventful, with the bridging layer coming out surprisingly well:
Hose Fitting Grip – as printed
The springs definitely have an air gap in there:
Hose Fitting Grip – printed interior
And the support layer cuts out neatly with an Xacto knife:
Hose Fitting Grip – support removed
We’ve had enough rain over the last few days (something to do with a continental-scale storm) to keep me and my adhesives out of the garden, but it hasn’t needed any watering, either.
While cleaning dead bugs out of the ceiling lamps, we discovered the kitchen light was missing one of the three nuts holding its cover in place. While spare nuts might be available, this seemed like a quicker & easier solution:
Ceiling Lamp Nut – bottom view – solid model
The stepped interior fits a brass insert with 8-32 threads (not metric, to my utter astonishment) rammed in place with a heat-set tool:
Ceiling Lamp Nut – insert staking
Using the nominal diameters seems to work fine, although I’m sure some finesse will be needed with smaller inserts.
Printed four just to be sure, rammed three inserts, and they’re ready:
Ceiling Lamp Nuts – as-built
The curved cap matches the original nut through the use of the Chord Equation to get the cap radius as a function of its height (sagitta) & base diameter. Admittedly, it looks kinda grotty with only a dozen layers, but it’s the thought that counts.
The original nuts are heavy knurled steel and the new ones are cheap plastic, but nobody will ever know:
Ceiling Lamp Nut – installed
Bonus: now I have two spare steel nuts for the next time …