The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Improvements

Making the world a better place, one piece at a time

  • Bafang BBS02: Terry Brake Sensor

    Bafang BBS02: Terry Brake Sensor

    The old-school “aero” brake levers on Gee’s Terry Symmetry bike have rubberoid cushion covers, so I slid the Bafang brake sensors inside:

    Terry Bafang brake sensor - front
    Terry Bafang brake sensor – front

    They make the grips somewhat wider, but I can’t figure out a less destructive way of installing the things.

    I glued the magnet inside a holder contoured to fit the space available:

    Terry - Bafang brake sensor - solid model
    Terry – Bafang brake sensor – solid model

    Knocking the corners off makes it much more finger-friendly.

    It’s unobtrusive with the handle released:

    Terry Bafang brake sensor - released
    Terry Bafang brake sensor – released

    When you squeeze the lever, your fingers are nowhere near the magnet:

    Terry Bafang brake sensor - pulled
    Terry Bafang brake sensor – pulled

    The lower edge actually slides along the brake lever housing without touching, but it’s a near thing.

    Those are the same magnets I used for the Bafang brake sensors on Mary’s Tour Easy, once again aligned to aim the strongest volume of the magnetic field toward the sensor. The brake sensors activate just before the pads touch the rims and release with the magnets a few millimeters away from the sensors.

    A complete coat of JB Plastic Bonder urethane adhesive covers each magnet to both isolate it from the weather and conceal the fact that they’re recycled from a power toothbrush.

    Now that I know they work in this position, I must ease adhesive underneath the sensors so they don’t move around under normal hand pressure.

    The OpenSCAD source code snippet:

    module BrakeMagnet() {
    
        Magnet = [10.5,3.0,5.5];
        Plate = 2*ThreadThick;
        BrakeRad = 10.0;            // brake handle curve Radius
        Holder = [2*BrakeRad,7.0,Magnet.z + Plate];
    
    
        difference() {
            intersection() {
                translate([0,-BrakeRad,0])
                    rotate(180/24)
                        cylinder(r=BrakeRad,h=Holder.z,$fn=24);
                translate([0,BrakeRad - Holder.y,Holder.z/2])
                    cube([2*BrakeRad,2*BrakeRad,Holder.z],center=true);
                translate([0,0,-2*BrakeRad/sqrt(2) + Holder.z - 3.0 + BrakeRad])
                    rotate([0,45,0])
                        cube(2*[BrakeRad,2*BrakeRad,BrakeRad],center=true);
            }
            translate([0,Magnet.y/2 - Holder.y - Protrusion/2,Magnet.z/2 + Plate + Protrusion/2])
                cube(Magnet + [0,Protrusion,Protrusion],center=true);
        }
    
    }
    

  • Bafang BBS02: Speed Sensor Alignment

    Bafang BBS02: Speed Sensor Alignment

    My friend Gee’s bike is a Terry Symmetry, designed for (small) women, which poses challenges when mounting “normal size” components. The Bafang BBS02 speed sensor mount (with a reshaped nut) requires far more clearance between the chainstay and the wheel spokes than the Symmetry has:

    Bafang BBS02 Speed Sensor - OEM bracket
    Bafang BBS02 Speed Sensor – OEM bracket

    The chainstay is nearly parallel to the spokes, so the sensor fits equally poorly anywhere its cable will allow.

    The obvious solution is to reverse the mount and stick it to the outside of the chainstay, but it’s not mmmm symmetric: the other end is closed. Use a pull saw to cut off the closed end, stick the sensor post in the other way, and then it fits fine:

    Bafang BBS02 Speed Sensor - reversed bracket - top
    Bafang BBS02 Speed Sensor – reversed bracket – top

    The sawed-off mount is visible from below:

    Bafang BBS02 Speed Sensor - reversed bracket - bottom
    Bafang BBS02 Speed Sensor – reversed bracket – bottom

    It looks fine from the outside:

    Bafang BBS02 Speed Sensor - reversed bracket - left side
    PXL_20210620_160950653 – Bafang BBS02 Speed Sensor – reversed bracket – left side

    Mad props to Bafang for the LED showing when the magnet is properly positioned.

  • Bafang BBS02: Drop-bar Throttle Adapter

    Bafang BBS02: Drop-bar Throttle Adapter

    The Bafang BBS02 package includes a thumb-activated throttle which, like the display, should clamp onto a 22.2 mm handlebar. The one on Mary’s bike fit neatly at the end of the left handgrip:

    Tour Easy grips - left installed
    Tour Easy grips – left installed

    There’s no similar location on a drop-bar bike that doesn’t get in the way, particularly on my friend Gee’s bike with narrow bars.

    With a display handlebar adapter in hand, this seemed less awful than anything else I had in mind:

    Bafang Throttle adapter - front view
    Bafang Throttle adapter – front view

    That’s the front view, so it’s on the right side in front of the handlebar. I think it’s usable with either a thumb or fingertips from a hand on the top of the bar. The handlebar lacks tape, as mounting the brake sensors poses a challenge.

    The view from the rear isn’t too revealing:

    Bafang Throttle adapter - rear view
    Bafang Throttle adapter – rear view

    Not too unsightly, but definitely not a standard setup!

  • Bafang BBS02: Drop-bar Display Adapter

    Bafang BBS02: Drop-bar Display Adapter

    All of the Bafang BBS02 displays have a compression clamp intended for more-or-less standard 22.2 mm handlebars, as found on typical upright BMX-ish bikes suitable for conversion to e-bikes and, oddly, our Tour Easy recumbents. My friend’s bike has drop-bar handlebars with a 25.4 mm (yes, exactly 1 inch) center section that just isn’t going to fit through that hole.

    The least awful solution involved summoning an adapter from the vasty digital deep:

    Display adapter mount - solid model
    Display adapter mount – solid model

    The hole clamps around the handlebar with an M3 SHCS pulling it snug and the display clamps around the peg to hold everything together:

    Bafang Display adapter - front view
    Bafang Display adapter – front view

    There’s not much to see from the side:

    Bafang Display adapter - left view
    Bafang Display adapter – left view

    Those scuffs arrived on the protective plastic film!

    The OpenSCAD source code includes some cruft from an idea that didn’t work out quite right:

    HandlebarMax = 1*inch;                      // middle handlebar diameter
    HandlebarMin = 24.0;                        //  .. tape section
    
    BafangClampID = 22.3;                       // new handlebar diameter
    
    
    … snippage …
    
    // Handlebar mount for controller
    
    module DispMount() {
    
    ClampRing = [HandlebarMax,HandlebarMax + 2*WallThick,10.0];
    ClampOffset = (HandlebarMax + BafangClampID)/2 + 6.0;
    
    DispStudLenth = 16.5;
    
    NumSides = 24;
    
    Tilt = 0*atan2((ClampRing[OD] - BafangClampID)/2,ClampOffset);
    echo(str("Tilt: ",Tilt));
    
        difference() {
            union() {
                hull() {
                    cylinder(d=ClampRing[OD],h=ClampRing[LENGTH],$fn=NumSides);
                    translate([0,ClampOffset,0])
                        cylinder(d=BafangClampID,h=ClampRing[LENGTH],$fn=NumSides);
                }
                translate([0,ClampOffset,0])
                    cylinder(d=BafangClampID,h=ClampRing[LENGTH] + DispStudLenth,$fn=NumSides);
                translate([-ClampRing[ID]/4,-(ClampRing[OD]/2),ClampRing[LENGTH]/2])
                    rotate([0,90,0]) rotate(180/8)
                        cylinder(d=ClampRing[LENGTH]/cos(180/8),h=ClampRing[ID]/2,$fn=8);
            }
            cube([Kerf,4*ClampOffset,4*DispStudLenth],center=true);
            translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
                cylinder(d=ClampRing[ID],h=ClampRing[LENGTH] + 2*Protrusion,$fn=NumSides);
            translate([-ClampRing[ID]/2,-(ClampRing[OD]/2),ClampRing[LENGTH]/2])
                rotate([0,90,0]) rotate(180/8)
                    PolyCyl(Screw3[ID],ClampRing[ID],8);
            for (i=[-1,1])
                translate([i*ClampRing[ID]/4,-(ClampRing[OD]/2),ClampRing[LENGTH]/2])
                    rotate([0,i*90,0]) rotate(180/8)
                        PolyCyl(Washer3[OD],ClampRing[ID],$fn=8);
    
            translate([-5,25,EmbossDepth/2 - Protrusion/2])
                rotate(Tilt)
                    cube([4.5,21.5,EmbossDepth + Protrusion],center=true);
    
        }
    
        translate([-5,25,0])
            linear_extrude(height=EmbossDepth)
                rotate(90 + Tilt) mirror([0,1,0])
                  text(text="KE4ZNU",size=3.3,spacing=1.05,font="Bitstream Vera Sans:style=Bold",
                       halign="center",valign="center");
    
    }
    

    It’s rock-solid stable: pushing the buttons doesn’t budge it in the least.

  • Bafang BBS02 Programming Adapter: CP2102 Version

    Bafang BBS02 Programming Adapter: CP2102 Version

    The last view before sticking the lid in place with hot melt glue:

    Bafang BBS02 - CP2102 Programming Adapter
    Bafang BBS02 – CP2102 Programming Adapter

    The cable on the right goes to the motor controller through the display pigtail cable, sporting colors from a parallel universe.

    A (possibly not counterfeit) CP2102 USB-to-serial adapter allows a slightly smaller case than one with the known-fake FTDI adapter and added some identification:

    Bafang BBS02 - CP2102 Programming Adapter - case solid model
    Bafang BBS02 – CP2102 Programming Adapter – case solid model

    It splits along the midline for printing, of course.

    The OpenSCAD source code replaces the previous version:

    // Programming cable case
    
    ProgCavity = [60.0,18.0,7.0];
    ProgBlock = [70.0,24.0,13.0];
    ProgCableOD = 4.0;
    
    module ProgrammerCase() {
    
        difference() {
            hull() {
                for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
                    translate([i*(ProgBlock.x/2 - CornerRadius),j*i*(ProgBlock.y/2 - CornerRadius),-ProgBlock.z/2])
                        cylinder(r=CornerRadius,h=ProgBlock.z,$fn=12);
                }
            translate([-ProgBlock.x,0,0])
                rotate([0,90,0])
                    PolyCyl(ProgCableOD,3*ProgBlock.x,6);
            cube(ProgCavity,center=true);
    
            translate([0,0,ProgBlock.z/2 + ProgCavity.z/2 - EmbossDepth])
                cube(ProgCavity,center=true);
            translate([0,0,-(ProgBlock.z/2 + ProgCavity.z/2 - EmbossDepth)])
                cube(ProgCavity,center=true);
    
        }
    
        translate([0,4,ProgBlock.z/2 - EmbossDepth])
            linear_extrude(height=EmbossDepth)
                text(text="Bafang BBS02",
                     size=5,spacing=1.00,font="Bitstream Vera Sans:style=Bold",
                     halign="center",valign="center");
    
        translate([0,-4,ProgBlock.z/2 - EmbossDepth])
            linear_extrude(height=EmbossDepth)
                text(text="Programmer",
                     size=5,spacing=1.00,font="Bitstream Vera Sans:style=Bold",
                     halign="center",valign="center");
    
        translate([0,4,-ProgBlock.z/2])
            linear_extrude(height=EmbossDepth)
                mirror([1,0])
                    text(text="Ed Nisley",
                        size=5,spacing=1.00,font="Bitstream Vera Sans:style=Bold",
                        halign="center",valign="center");
        translate([0,-4,-ProgBlock.z/2])
            linear_extrude(height=EmbossDepth)
                mirror([1,0])
                    text(text="softsolder.com",
                        size=5,spacing=1.00,font="Bitstream Vera Sans:style=Bold",
                        halign="center",valign="center");
    
    }
    
    // Half case sections for printing
    
    module HalfCase(Section = "Upper") {
    
        intersection() {
           translate([0,0,ProgBlock.z/4])
                cube([2*ProgBlock.x,2*ProgBlock.y,ProgBlock.z/2],center=true);
            if (Section == "Upper")
                ProgrammerCase();
            else
                translate([0,0,ProgBlock.z/2])
                    ProgrammerCase();
        }
    }
    
    // .. snippage ..
    
            translate([0,2*Block.x/2 * gap,0]) {
    
                translate([gap*ProgBlock.x/2,0,ProgBlock.z/2])
                    rotate([180,0,0])
                        HalfCase("Upper");
                translate([-gap*ProgBlock.x/2,0,0])
                    HalfCase("Lower");
            }
    

    My friend rides about the same way we do, except from a much higher perch, so I’ll start her off with a configuration similar to the one we settled on for Mary’s Tour Easy.

  • Microscope Stage Positioner: Rigid MakerBeam Edition

    Microscope Stage Positioner: Rigid MakerBeam Edition

    Rebuilding the XYZ stage positioner with MakerBeam aluminum struts, but without the steel brackets, produce a much more rigid result:

    Microscope Stage Positioner - rigid Makerbeam
    Microscope Stage Positioner – rigid Makerbeam

    This requires drilling holes through the extrusions:

    Microscope Stage Positioner - Makerbeam drilling
    Microscope Stage Positioner – Makerbeam drilling

    Running the center drill down until it just nicks the sides produces enough of a pilot hole through the center section to capture the 3 mm drill. If I had to drill enough holes to make a fixture worthwhile, I could probably eliminate the divots.

    Two more holes + epoxied M3 brass inserts attached the 60 mm beam directly to the Z Axis stage, thereby eliminating the vertical beam and a steel bracket:

    Microscope Stage Positioner - Makerbeam joints
    Microscope Stage Positioner – Makerbeam joints

    The M3 SHCS attaching the 100 mm beam goes through both beams. I think you could get the same result with a Tee Nut or a 12 mm Square Head bolt, should you have those lying around and don’t want to drill another hole. The Corner Cube screwed into both beams prevents rotation and helps ensure perpendicularity.

    The Y stage now attaches directly to the beam, rather than through a pair of Corner Cubes, because I realized I wasn’t ever going to adjust its position.

    The Z Axis stage stands on the plastic plate through a hellish mixture of metric and USA-ian screws. Basically, the 6-40 screws into the stage were long enough, the 6-32 screws through the plate fit the existing holes, and M3 screws are for MakerBeam:

    Microscope Stage Positioner - Z Axis base
    Microscope Stage Positioner – Z Axis base

    To my utter astonishment, the threads in the end of the vertical beam had the proper alignment to let a Square Head bolt snug the beam against the 40 mm beam on the plate. As a result, the L Bracket just prevents the vertical beam from turning on the screw and the combination is as rigid as you (well, I) could want.

    The 40 mm beam has two spurious holes, because I thought I could avoid drilling another hole in the baseplate. Nobody will ever notice.

    After squaring and tightening everything, the 100 mm beam along the Y Axis is now horizontal within 0.2 mm and the X Axis is horizontal to better than I can measure.

    It’s definitely Good Enough™ for me:

    Microscope Stage Positioner - in use
    Microscope Stage Positioner – in use

    Remember, nothing exceeds like excess …

  • Microscope Stage Positioner: MakerBeam Rebuild MVP

    Microscope Stage Positioner: MakerBeam Rebuild MVP

    Over the course of half a decade (!), the 3D printed arm on the XYZ positioner I use with the stereo zoom microscope sagged:

    Microscope Stage Positioner - PETG creep angle
    Microscope Stage Positioner – PETG creep angle

    It’s about what you’d expect from a plastic beam carrying a big lump of brass and steel:

    Microscope Stage Positioner
    Microscope Stage Positioner

    The near side of that arm (the -Y end) drooped about 5 mm below than the side nearest the Z axis slide, so it was time for an update.

    Having some MakerBeam ready to hand, this didn’t take long:

    Microscope Stage Positioner - Makerbeam overview
    Microscope Stage Positioner – Makerbeam overview

    Protip: before dismantling a fitted slide, mark one end so you know how to put it back together. Bonus points for taking a picture:

    Microscope Stage Positioner - slide marking
    Microscope Stage Positioner – slide marking

    Double bonus points for writing a blog post.

    Rather than fight with the existing fine-pitch USA-ian screws, I drilled out their threaded holes:

    Microscope Stage Positioner - Y slide drilling
    Microscope Stage Positioner – Y slide drilling

    And epoxied 3 mm brass inserts in their place:

    Microscope Stage Positioner - Y slide M3 inserts
    Microscope Stage Positioner – Y slide M3 inserts

    Those holes match up with a pair of corner cubes normally appearing on the end of the beams:

    Microscope Stage Positioner - BHCS mods for Makerbeam
    Microscope Stage Positioner – BHCS mods for Makerbeam

    It turns out M3 button head cap screws will slide into the beams if you file the slightest angle on opposite sides of the button, although a small bag of tiny tee nuts should arrive in a while.

    Then a variety of brackets spliced everything together:

    Microscope Stage Positioner - Makerbeam detail
    Microscope Stage Positioner – Makerbeam detail

    Although it looks strictly from industrial, it actually wasn’t much better than the plastic edition and, in fact, the beam supporting the XY slides sagged about the same 5 mm. The plastic upright post also contributed a bit of wobble.

    It turns out that the extruded aluminum beams have plenty of longitudinal and torsional stiffness, but all those flat steel fittings don’t.

    There’s a way to work with the beam strengths, rather than against them, but that’s a story for another day …