The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Improvements

Making the world a better place, one piece at a time

  • Sears Craftsman Radial Saw Elevation Knob Handle

    Broken Knob
    Broken Knob

    Mary’s folks visited us for Christmas and her father brought along a shelf that needed cutting; their apartment doesn’t have room for his shop equipment, alas. I cleared the crap off the radial saw, grabbed the elevation knob to crank the blade up to get it set for ripping, and … the handle broke off.

    That’s not the first time this has happened, so I wasn’t entirely surprised. The knob is large enough that I could complete the mission just by grabbing the rim, but it was a near thing.

    The handle is made of some wonderful engineering plastic that doesn’t solvent-bond well with anything in my armory, although Plastruct had enough bite to make me think it would work. That repair actually lasted several years of admittedly low-duty-cycle use, but obviously this couldn’t continue.

    Stress raiser
    Stress raiser

    The problem seems to be built into the handle design. This pic shows that the fracture spans a high-stress part of the handle: between the inside right-angle corner (upper left) that rests on the outside of the knob, across the handle’s web, to the corner of the recess in the flange at the bottom of the picture.

    The red hoodickie is the latch that secures the handle in its deployed position, wherein it sticks out at exactly crotch height for average human males. That accounts for the fluorescent red tape around the handle.

    Broken surface
    Broken surface

    You can see how the latch recess triggered the crack: that notch where the latch wraps around must be the highest-stress part of the handle. I suspect the original design didn’t have the latch (or had something different) and the fat web near the round feature on the left extended all the way to the angled flange on the right.

    That would work!

    I epoxied a pair of rectangular brass tubes across the fracture inside the web, where they fit neatly below the latch. I roughed up the web with an awl to give the epoxy more surface to grab.

    Incidentally, this is one of those cases where you might think a cyanoacrylate adhesive would work. It won’t: too much shock, too much pressure. I used it to hold the parts together while the epoxy cured, but that’s about as far as I’d trust it.

    I’d like to add something to the notch, but I’m not convinced a right-angle brass flange and some epoxy will have enough grip to make any difference. It would certainly require changing the latch, perhaps by thinning the left side, which would make that weaker. On the other paw, I can probably eke out a miserable existence without the latch.

    Brass internal reinforcement
    Brass internal reinforcement

    The picture shows the clamping in operation. A snippet of polypropylene (from some random consumer packaging) under the tip of the clamp prevents it from becoming one with the project; the clamp tip is slippery plastic, but you never know.

    Perhaps this fix will last for a few more years…

    Y’know, I’m beginning to believe that finite-element analysis will be the death of us all. Obviously this handle was modeled to a fare-thee-well, with only enough material to meet the expected stresses in the expected directions. Unfortunately, the real world doesn’t cooperate: the forces are always larger, the conditions always worse, and the materials always weaker than the design anticipated. A “safety factor” of three or four or maybe even ten just isn’t enough!

  • HP54602 Oscilloscope Trace Conversion Tweakage

    The script (writeups there and there) I use to convert the HPGL screen dumps from my HP54602 into PNG images produced a transparent background. I put the files into an OpenOffice mockup of my Circuit Cellar columns and the background turns white, so I figured it worked OK.

    Turns out that the workflow at Circuit Cellar Galactic HQ turns the background black. A bit of digging showed that the ImageMagick convert program produced an alpha channel that selected only the traces and left everything else unselected. Why that produces white here and black there is a mystery, but there’s no point in putting up with such nonsense.

    Another wrestling match produced this revision (the two changed lines are highlighted), which has no alpha channel and a white background. That ought to simplify things: an image shouldn’t depend on where it’s dropped to look right.

    #!/usr/bin/kermit +
    # Fetches screen shot from HP54602B oscilloscope
    # Presumes it's set up for plotter output...
    # Converts HPGL to PNG image
    
    set modem none
    set line /dev/ttyUSB0
    set speed 19200
    set flow rts/cts
    set carrier-watch off
    
    # Make sure we have a param
    if not defined \%1 ask \%1 {File name? }
    
    set input echo off
    set input buffer-length 200000
    
    # Wait for PRINT button to send the plot
    echo Set HP54602B for HP Plotter, FACTORS ON, 19200, DTR
    echo Press PRINT SCREEN button on HP54602B...
    
    log session "\%1.hgl"
    
    # Factors On
    input 480 \x03
    
    close session
    close
    
    echo Converting HPGL in
    echo --\%1.hgl
    echo to PNG in
    echo --\%1.png
    
    # Factors Off
    #run hp2xx -q -m png -a 1.762 -h 91 -c 14 "\%1.hgl"
    #run mogrify -density 300 -resize 200% "\%1.png"
    
    # Factors On
    run sed '/lb/!d' "\%1.hgl" > "\%1-1.hgl"
    run hp2xx -q -m eps -r 270 -a 0.447 -c 14 -f "\%1.eps" "\%1-1.hgl"
    run rm "\%1-1.hgl"
    run convert "\%1.eps" -alpha off -resize 675x452 "\%1.png"
    
    echo Finished!
    
    exit 0
    
  • Whirlpool Refrigerator Shelf: Drawer Slide Repair

    Refrigerator shelf bracket - inside
    Refrigerator shelf bracket – inside

    The bottom glass shelf in our Whirlpool refrigerator (the “Crisper Cover”) rests on an elaborate plastic structure that includes slides for the two Crisper drawers. Perhaps we store far more veggies than they anticipated, we’re rough on our toys, or the drawer slides came out a whole lot weaker than the designers expected. I’m betting on the latter, but whatever the cause, the two outside slides broke some years ago.

    I don’t know what function the rectangular hole above the flattened part of the slide might serve, but it acted as a stress raiser that fractured the column toward the front. With that end broken loose, another crack propagated toward the rear, so the entire front end of the slide drooped when the drawer slid forward.

    The minimum FRU (Field Replacement Unit) is the entire plastic shelf assembly, a giant plastic thing that fills the entire bottom of the refrigerator. You could, of course, buy a whole new shelf assembly, perhaps from www.appliancepartspros.com, but it’s no longer available. Back when it was, I recall it being something on the far side of $100, which made what you see here look downright attractive.

    My first attempt at a repair was an aluminum bracket epoxied to the outside of the slide, filling the rectangular opening with JB Industro-Weld epoxy to encourage things to stay put. The plastic cannot be solvent-bonded with anything in my armory, so I depended on epoxy’s griptivity to lock the aluminum into the shelf. That worked for maybe five years for the right side (shown above) and is still working fine on the left side.

    Refrigerator shelf bracket - bottom
    Refrigerator shelf bracket – bottom

    The right-side bracket eventually broke loose, so I did what I should have done in the first place: screw the bracket to the shelf. Alas, my original bracket remained firmly bonded to the bottom part of the shelf and secured to the block of epoxy in the rectangular hole. Remember, the broken piece didn’t completely separate from the shelf.

    So I cut another angle bracket to fit around the first, drilled holes in the shelf, transfer-punched the bracket, and match-drilled the holes. Some short(ened) stainless-steel screws and nuts held the new bracket in place and a few dabs of epoxy putty filled the gaps to make everything rigid.

    That’s been working for the last few years. The refrigerator is going on 16 years with only one major repair (a jammed-open defrost switch), so I’ll call it good enough.

  • Arduino Pro: Securing the Serial Connecor

    Epoxy backfill on Arduino Pro serial connector
    Epoxy backfill on Arduino Pro serial connector

    The surface-mount serial connector on an Arduino Pro board isn’t the most robust of devices; the FTDI USB interface and USB cable can apply far too much torque to those little pins. Even before the situation described yesterday, the pins were getting wobbly.

    The connector shell is a big part of the problem, as it doesn’t mechanically lock the pins in place. Installing and removing the FTDI USB board pushes and pulls the pins against their pads, which means the adhesive bonding the pads must handle all that stress.

    Eventually, the Reset and TX pin pads tore loose from the circuit board. At that point, they have no mechanical stability at all; you can bridge a solder blob from the pin to its trace, but the adhesive holding the copper pad in place has lost all strength.

    The fix is straightforward, if ugly.

    • Repair the pin-to-pad/trace connections with something better than a solder blob. I used small snippets of component leads.
    • Apply denatured alcohol and scrub away all the solder flux around the pads.
    • Apply enough epoxy to the back of the connector to bond it, the pins, and the circuit board into one mechanically stable unit. I worked the epoxy between the pins and slightly under the connector shell with a small screwdriver and toothpick.

    Even with this repair in place, the connector is not particularly robust. It’s much better than it was, so we’ll count it as a win.

    This Arduino Pro has survived several projects, hence the hideous solder blobs here & there. I suppose I should just throw the poor thing away, but … that’s not my nature.

  • Arduino Pro: Power Adaptation for FTDI Basic USB

    Arduino FTDI Basic on modified Arduino Pro
    Arduino FTDI Basic on modified Arduino Pro

    Some time ago, I bought a 5 V Arduino Pro board (about which you read earlier there) and a nominally compatible FTDI Basic USB-to-serial adapter. Turns out that they’re not quite a perfect match, although they do play nicely together in normal use.

    The FTDI Basic board produces a 3.3 V regulated output voltage that’s connected directly to the output of the Pro’s 5 V regulator. This doesn’t cause any particular problem, but one side effect is that you can’t shut the board’s power off: the USB power will keep the CPU alive, more or less.

    You should, of course, use a 3.3 V FTDI Basic board with a 3.3 V Pro, which would at least put two similar voltage sources head-to-head.

    The Pro is using a backup power supply that, for reasons that make perfectly good sense, backfeeds the Pro’s 5 V regulator: when the +12 V main supply Goes Away, the backup power supports VCC directly, rather than through the regulator. The regulator can take a joke like that, as witness the FTDI vs Pro situation; in my case, a diode isolates the two supplies in normal operation.

    For reasons that I don’t completely understand, some combination of voltage to the Pro regulator and the (diode isolated!) backup support voltage caused the FTDI chip to lock up with both TX and RX LEDs on solid.

    I suspect the FTDI chip’s internal 3.3 V regulator, in combination with the USB +5 V supply, in combination with the Pro board power, drove something outside its normal operation range. So I simply removed the 3.3 V pin from the connector, disconnecting that supply from the Pro’s overvoltage, and the thing now works fine.

    Side effects:

    • The FTDI board remains powered when the Pro board gets turned off, thus preventing Linux from changing the serial port device when the power comes back up again
    • I can actually turn the Pro power off, without having the FTDI supply keep it alive. Handy for soldering!

    The Pro pin labeled GND connects to the FTDI CTS line, an input that floats high when not connected. I yanked that pin and shorted CTS to GND on the FTDI board: one less pin to worry about, for reasons that you’ll see tomorrow.

    There are many different versions of the boards and USB adapters, so current production probably doesn’t match what I have. Pay attention to what you have, though…

  • Fixing an MTD Gas Cap Splash Shield

    OEM plastic post
    OEM plastic post

    MTD used the same design for the gasoline tank caps on our leaf shredder and snow thrower: an aluminum cone (which evidently serves to keep splashes away from the tank vent) mounted on a heat-staked plastic rod molded into the cap. It’s straightforward, but a bit suboptimal for high-vibration yard gadgets.

    The aluminum cone eventually worries its way through the plastic post and falls into the tank, taking the heat-formed button from the post along with it. Trust me on this, fishing those things out of the tank is an exquisite little inconvenience.

    4-40 screw post - inside
    4-40 screw post – inside
    4-40 screw post - exterior
    4-40 screw post – exterior

    The fix is straightforward.

    Chop off the remains of the post, drill a snug 4-40 tapping hole straight through the cap, and tap it accordingly. Secure the cone to the screw with a nut tightened against the head, run the screw through the cap, run a pair of nuts onto it, trim to length, then jam the nuts together so the cone is about where it started out. Loctite on the nuts is a Good Thing, but I don’t know how it feels about gasoline immersion.

    The snowblower cone is getting wobbly; I must make a preemptive strike on it to avoid fishing the debris out of the tank.

  • Salvaging Old Photos: Gamma Boost

    We’re scanning a bunch of really old photographs to assemble a book of memories for Mary’s father. Most of the images are about what you’d expect for old photos: bad exposures, poor focus, and scratched emulsion. There’s not much you can do to save ’em, but one image really surprised me.

    Scanned at 600 dpi with the black and white points set to maximize the dynamic range, we got this image (reduced resolution for display here).

    Original
    Original

    The original image is somewhat brighter than that: there’s a figure visible in the upper-left, but you can’t see much more.

    After dramatically adjusting the gamma and switching to grayscale mode, her father popped out of the shadows.

    Gamma = 3
    Gamma = 3

    Now, it’s not a great picture, but it’s one of the few we have from that era… and it’s a much better picture than no picture at all!

    A similar trick can recover dull gray snow pictures, as mentioned there.