The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Improvements

Making the world a better place, one piece at a time

  • Cutting Thin Rings: Homebrew Punches

    The Totally Featureless Clock is back for a refit: its preferred location turned out to have essentially no RF at all, so I must move the antenna out of the clock case on the end of a cable.

    Drat!

    I put the ferrite bar inside a length of PVC pipe, turned down to make it less ugly, with white plastic end plugs. Rather than fiddle around with complex mountings, I cushioned the fragile bar in closed-cell foam, which meant I needed some way to cut a bunch of foam rings.

    Some rummaging produced a thinwall brass tube with about the same ID as the PVC pipe. A brief trip to the lathe put a reasonably sharp edge on one end.

    Sharpening the brass tube
    Sharpening the brass tube

    That edge is more keen than it looks; while it’s not razor-sharp, it’s plenty good enough. I didn’t use it as a punch, just grabbed it in a rag to cushion my palm and rotated it through the foam against a plywood scrap.

    That produced a bunch of foam cookies.

    Foam cutouts
    Foam cutouts

    The bar diameter was close enough to a standard hole punch that I didn’t have to make one. Centering by eye and rotating by hand turned the cookies into donuts.

    Punched holes
    Punched holes

    And then they fit just fine…

    Cushioned ferrite bar antenna
    Cushioned ferrite bar antenna

    I made more donuts to swaddle the bar from end to end inside the PVC tube. I slipped the antenna in from the left, then pushed the donuts over the bar with Yet Another Brass Tube. The end result is an antenna compression-packed in foam, which ought to keep it in good condition through at least a minor oops.

    Finished antenna housing
    Finished antenna housing

    The screws pass through the end plugs to hold them against the pressure from the foam cookies at the bar ends. The holes are slightly counterbored on the top to blend the screw heads into the curve of the tube. There’s a 3/8-inch flat along the bottom that will eventually settle against the underside of a shelf.

  • Epson R380 Printer: External Waste Ink Tank

    Side cover latch and external tank hose
    Side cover latch and external tank hose

    Having reset the waste ink counter on my Epson R380 printer, I finally got around to installing the external waste ink tank that will prevent the printer from drooling all over its innards.

    Fortunately, rerouting the waste ink hose out of the printer doesn’t require the complete teardown mandated to remove the waste ink tank itself: you can do it by removing the cover, drilling a hole, moving the hose, and abandoning the tank in place.

    The recommended way to remove the right-side side cover (as you face the printer) involves jamming a steel ruler into the “vent” (it’s actually a decorative feature) and shoving a latch out of the way. I trimmed a bit of stainless steel strip, shoved it in, and it worked fine. The cover latch is the complex central feature in the vertical gap between the case and the cover. The hose is routed out through a new hole down in the lower right corner.

    With the cover off, it turns out that the “tank” is actually a “tray” (which is what it’s called in the maintenance manual) filled with absorbent fuzz. There’s no lid, so it appears they’re counting on evaporation to keep the total volume under control and surface tension on the fuzz to keep the ink from leaking when you tip the printer. I suspect if the printer spent a lot of time on its ear, though, things would get messy.

    Internal tank and OEM hose
    Internal tank and OEM hose

    Removing the hose from the barbed fitting goes easier with a small screwdriver pushing it along; you (well, I) can’t just pull the hose off. It’s a very flexible silicone rubber (?) hose with an internal liner: very nice stuff.

    The hose seems to drain only the head-cleaning station, not the long waste ink tank / tray across the width of the printer that catches overspray from borderless printing. That counter is at 5% of its rated maximum, so I’ll let it slide.

    The ink, being adsorbed in the fuzz, won’t leak back out of the tray, so there’s no need to plug the barbed fitting.

    Hole in case and rerouted hose
    Hole in case and rerouted hose

    I used the 1/4-inch tip of a fat step drill to poke a hole at the very bottom of the plastic case, behind the pillar holding the white printer mechanism. The far end of the hose connects to a pump somewhere back in the bowels of the printer and that hole position freed up the longest amount of hose.

    Much to my surprise, the tube wasn’t full of ink and didn’t bloosh blackness all over everything. Perhaps the hose drains back to the pump between head cleanings?

    Then it’s just a matter of buttoning up the case, joining the hoses with the supplied barbed fitting, sticking the external tank’s hook-and-loop strip to the printer, and trimming the hose to fit. It Would Be Nice If the new tank hose were the same flexy silicone stuff as the OEM hose, but it looks to be ordinary Tygon-ish tubing and is a bit stiffer than I’d like.

    External waste ink tank in place
    External waste ink tank in place

    No ink has reached the new hose yet, but I’m sure the next few head cleaning cycles will push out some oodge.

    The tank vendor suggests “recycling” the waste ink by diluting it with black ink, but I’ll just discard it. Bulk ink isn’t all that expensive, compared to OEM ink cartridges, and I’d rather not borrow trouble.

  • X10 Controller Lid Tweak

    The new X10 controller on our dresser has a nice lid over the buttons. Unfortunately, the lid lacks any affordance to raise it: smooth edges all around, slick surface, no notches or bumps.

    The obvious, albeit ugly, solution: add some black and very grippy rubber strips to the front and side edges of the lid. Now one finger suffices…

    Griptivity Enhancement
    Griptivity Enhancement

    Puzzle: how did the designers expect us to lift the lid?

  • Constraining a Sewer Snake

    Constrained sewer snake
    Constrained sewer snake

    Had the occasion to run the flexy snake through a kitchen drain that turned out to be not as plugged up as I expected, which is always good news. Replaced the cleanout plug, hosed off the snake, coiled it up, and applied the usual three nylon cable ties to keep the snake together.

    It took me years to figure out that last step. None of the old-school tricks work for me; I can’t tie knots in string / twine / rope while simultaneously holding those coils together and the snake resists any attempt to weave the loose ends into the bundle.

    Mercifully, I don’t use the snake all that often and I don’t feel at all bad about tossing three cable ties each time.

    You figured that out long ago, right?

  • OpenOffice 3.2 Graphics Cache Settings

    The default OpenOffice 3.2 graphics cache is probably large enough for ordinary documents. However, I put together a 9-page illustrated biography for a birthday party last year using (most likely) OOo 3.1 and that file dragged OOo 3.2 to its knees.

    The default cache settings are something like

    • 20 MB
    • 2 MB per object
    • 20 objects

    Crank those to

    • 256 MB
    • 5 MB per object
    • 50 objects

    Much better!

    I’m sure that depends on what you’re doing and how much memory your PC has, but when OOo gets really pokey on a graphics-intensive document, check the cache.

  • Repurposing Tomato Cages

    Bending tomato cage wires
    Bending tomato cage wires

    Mary wanted to convert some old tomato cages into flower supports and deer protectors (until the flowers get big enough), by the simple expedient of flipping the cages over with the large end down. She figured we could chop off the wire ends that normally anchor the cages to the ground, then bend them into hooks for secure ground anchors.

    I deployed the linesman’s pliers, which only showed that my wire size estimation is grossly underdeveloped. The high-carbon steel wires required bolt cutters… but a few minutes of twang effort scattered two dozen really stiff wires across the patio.

    I ran a marker across the pile at the bend point, grabbed two random steel rods in the vise and, in short order, bent up a stack of ground anchors.

    Not every job requires G-Code …

  • Zire 71 Button Protector

    Zire 71 button protector
    Zire 71 button protector

    I carry around an ancient Zire 71, from the time before PDAs merged with phones and PCs to become fashionable objects of desire.

    Anyway, it turns out that the buttons on the front are remarkably easy to squash in your pocket: the poor thing spends a lot of time turning itself on and off. I machined a plate with two holes for the four buttons and a lengthwise recess with two notches for the joystick selector. The whole affair slides into the pouch Mary made for it and works fine.

    I tweaked the thing a bit when I got a replacement Zire a few months ago; the grippy tape I put on the sides seemed to be just large enough to force the joystick against the protector while sliding it into the pouch. Now that’s not a problem.

    Zire 71 protector in place
    Zire 71 protector in place

    This is in the nature of documentation, just in case I need something like this ever again. I found these pix while looking for something else …