The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Improvements

Making the world a better place, one piece at a time

  • Quilting Ruler Pencil Guides: Acrylic

    Quilting Ruler Pencil Guides: Acrylic

    I cut some transparent acrylic pencil guides to go along with the 45° Triangle Ruler:

    Quilting Ruler Pencil Guides
    Quilting Ruler Pencil Guides

    The guides along the rear are the 3D printed versions from a decade ago.

    The three transparent guides taught us:

    • 4 mm is better than 3 mm
    • Entirely transparent guides vanish on the table

    So the engraved ring on the two in the front row carries a cheerful Sharpie color to make them stand out. I wanted to use fluorescent acrylic, but I don’t have any 4 mm sheets and stacking a pair of 3 mm sheets → 6 mm will be too thick for the pencil tip.

    What looks like dirt on the red guide comes from internal reflections or the lack thereof: it’s perfectly transparent in person, honest.

  • Custom 45° Triangle Quilting Ruler

    Custom 45° Triangle Quilting Ruler

    Mary’s current quilt project has a corner design with an essentially infinite number of 45° triangles, which another custom ruler will simplify:

    45° Quilting Ruler - finished
    45° Quilting Ruler – finished

    That’s the end result of several iterations, proceeding from doodles to sketches to increasingly accurate laser-cut prototypes:

    45° Quilting Ruler - prototypes
    45° Quilting Ruler – prototypes

    A “ruler” in quilting parlance is a thing guiding the sewing machine’s “ruler foot” across the fabric (or, for sit-down machines, the fabric under the foot) in specific directions:

    45° Quilting Ruler - in use
    45° Quilting Ruler – in use

    That’s a practice quilt on scrap fabric: quilters need prototypes, too!

    The foot is 0.5 inch OD, within a reasonable tolerance, which accounts for the slot width in the ruler. It’s also intended to run against 1/4 inch thick rulers, which accounts for the thickness of that slab of acrylic.

    The engraved lines & arcs are on the bottom of the ruler to eliminate parallax errors against the fabric, so the bottom is upward and the text is mirrored for the laser:

    45° Quilting Ruler - cutting
    45° Quilting Ruler – cutting

    Although fluorescent green acrylic may have higher visibility, clear seems adequate for the fabric in question:

    45° Quilting Ruler - colored fabric
    45° Quilting Ruler – colored fabric

    I very carefully trimmed the arcs against the ruler outline using LightBurn’s Cut Shapes, which turned out to be a Bad Idea™, because the high-current pulse as the laser fires causes a visible puncture wound at the still-to-be-cut edge:

    45° Quilting Ruler - edge damage
    45° Quilting Ruler – edge damage

    Those are not straight lines and the plastic isn’t bent!

    A closer look:

    45° Quilting Ruler - edge damage - detail
    45° Quilting Ruler – edge damage – detail

    The arcs without wounds started from their other end and stopped at the edge, which is perfectly fine.

    The wounds are unsightly, not structural, but the next time around I’ll extend the markings a millimeter beyond the edges into the scrap material.

    The overall design looks busier than it is, because I put different features on different layers in case they needed different settings:

    45 Degree Quilting Ruler - LightBurn layout
    45 Degree Quilting Ruler – LightBurn layout

    The LightBurn SVG layout as a GitHub Gist:

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  • Prusa MK4 Foam Feet: Embiggened

    Prusa MK4 Foam Feet: Embiggened

    It turns out the Prusa MK4 weighs enough to squish my add-on foam feet to about half their original thickness:

    Prusa MK4 Foam Feet - embiggened
    Prusa MK4 Foam Feet – embiggened

    The two in the front are 30×30 mm and the shorter (more squished) foot was under the right rear of the MK4 where the power supply lives.

    The larger feet (one installed) are 60×60 mm and, with the same weight supported on four times the area, should squish much less.

    Stipulated: I can’t hear the difference either way.

    This project was precipitated by finding a large scrap of exercise mat foam in a place where it shouldn’t have been.

  • Generator Cover Screw Knob

    Generator Cover Screw Knob

    The latches holding the side cover of the portable generator in place work well enough that I never tighten the cover screws, but sometimes one will vibrate itself into place and require less than one turn of a screwdriver to release. Given that I put a knob on the air filter screw, a pair of knobs on the side cover screws makes sense:

    Generator Cover Screw Knob - installed
    Generator Cover Screw Knob – installed

    Those are custom screws! The narrow neck keeps them captive in the cover, which is a Good Thing™.

    These knobs obviously descend from the air filter knob, with less knurling and a short shaft to clear the recess in the cover:

    Generator Cover Screw Knob - solid model
    Generator Cover Screw Knob – solid model

    Unlike the air filter knob, the double-sided tape gluing these to their screws isn’t continually compressed, so the knobs may eventually shake off. Should that happen, I’ll deploy epoxy.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Generator cover screw knob
    // Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU
    // 2026-03-13
    
    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    
    /* [Hidden] */
    
    // Screw head dome
    
    HeadHeight = 2.0;
    HeadOD = 10.8;
    
    DomeRadius = (HeadHeight^2 + (HeadOD^2)/4) / (2*HeadHeight);
    echo(DomeRadius=DomeRadius);
    
    KnobOD = 15.0;
    KnobLength = 10.0;
    
    ShaftOD = HeadOD;
    ShaftLength = 7.0;
    
    RimFudge = 0.3;   // ensures a printable edge
    
    // Build it
    
    difference() {
      cyl(h=KnobLength, r=KnobOD/2,anchor=BOTTOM,texture="trunc_pyramids",tex_size=[3.0,KnobLength/3]) position(TOP)
        cyl(ShaftLength,d=ShaftOD,anchor=BOTTOM);
      up(KnobLength + ShaftLength - HeadHeight + RimFudge)
        spheroid(r=DomeRadius,circum=true,style="icosa",anchor=BOTTOM);
    }
    
    
  • Clover Mini-Iron Holder: Revised

    Clover Mini-Iron Holder: Revised

    The 3D printed Clover Mini-Iron holder served well over the last decade (!), even after one of Mary’s buddies misplaced the iron during a quilting bee:

    Clover MCI-900 Mini Iron holder - melted
    Clover MCI-900 Mini Iron holder – melted

    She asked for a new holder that put the iron at a higher angle for easier gripping, which required only slight tinkering to boot the OpenSCAD code into the current decade:

    Clover MCI-900 Mini Iron holder - higher angle
    Clover MCI-900 Mini Iron holder – higher angle

    The letters stand one layer proud of the surface just to see what that looked like. I think it’s a nice touch.

    The alert reader will note the cord end isn’t quite snugged into its recess. In normal use, the cord hangs over the edge of the sewing table and pulls the iron into place.

    I embiggened the base to fit an aluminum plate from the stockpile, because that same cord tends to pull the holder around on the table. The plate puts enough weight on the silicone rubber feet to hold it firmly in place.

    A layer of good double-stick tape strips bonds the aluminum plate to the PETG iron holder, after I once again discovered that craft adhesive sheets do not bond to PETG.

  • Laser-Cut Egg Carton Sprouter

    Laser-Cut Egg Carton Sprouter

    Mary has been using Styrofoam egg cartons to sprout seeds for this year’s garden veggies:

    Egg carton sprouter - hand cut
    Egg carton sprouter – hand cut

    I looked at those artisanal holes and offered to make sprouters with precisely calibrated laser-cut holes.

    After the laughter died down, this happened:

    Egg carton sprouter - lid detail
    Egg carton sprouter – lid detail

    Each egg compartment has a drainage hole in the bottom:

    Egg carton sprouter - on platform
    Egg carton sprouter – on platform

    The LightBurn layout has four shapes in three virtual arrays:

    • Drain holes: 3 mm circle, 6×3 array
    • Top vents: 25×15 mm oval, 2×1 array
    • Side vents: concentric 3×4 & 2×3 mm ovals, 2×4 array

    Which looks like this:

    Egg Carton Sprouter - LightBurn layout
    Egg Carton Sprouter – LightBurn layout

    Because this isn’t a high-precision operation, I align the patterns to the carton using the camera:

    Egg Carton Sprouter - LightBurn camera alignment
    Egg Carton Sprouter – LightBurn camera alignment

    The two halves of the unfolded carton aren’t the same height, which means the top and bottom patterns have different focus levels and must be cut in two operations.

    The laughter made it totally worthwhile.

  • Punched Cards: Apollo Eagle Card Layout

    Punched Cards: Apollo Eagle Card Layout

    With some lessons learned from the first pass, the bottom layer of the Apollo Eagle gets a reversed card for the white tail feathers:

    Apollo Eagle - Layer 1 card layout
    Apollo Eagle – Layer 1 card layout

    Which looks like this just after cutting the outline:

    Apollo Eagle - Layer 1 as cut
    Apollo Eagle – Layer 1 as cut

    Gently removing the scrap from the edges reveals the eagle:

    Apollo Eagle - Layer 1 cutout
    Apollo Eagle – Layer 1 cutout

    The top two layers also come from a reversed card, with those shapes arranged to put the holes in attractive places:

    Apollo Eagle - Layer 7 8 card layout
    Apollo Eagle – Layer 7 8 card layout

    The five layers in between as a slide show:

    • Apollo Eagle - Layer 2 card layout
    • Apollo Eagle - Layer 3 card layout
    • Apollo Eagle - Layer 4 card layout
    • Apollo Eagle - Layer 5 card layout
    • Apollo Eagle - Layer 6 card layout

    It took a while to get over cutting up all those nice cards.

    Some deft glue stick work produces a layered eagle:

    Apollo Eagle - assembly overview
    Apollo Eagle – assembly overview

    I managed to get a dark bottom in the nostril, which turned out weird:

    Apollo Eagle - head detail
    Apollo Eagle – head detail

    All in all, though:

    • Fewer layers are better
    • The head came out OK-ish
    • The bottom layer card arrangement is too fussy
    • The olive branches still look weird
    • The claws are still ugly
    • The tail needs more contrast, perhaps two layers
    • Having horizontal card splices aligned on successive layers is bad

    More study is definitely in order …