The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Art-ish

They might be Art

  • Laser Cutter: Low Power Vectors vs. CD-Rs

    Laser Cutter: Low Power Vectors vs. CD-Rs

    Wrecking scrap discs led to experimenting with the low-power behavior of my nominal 60 W CO₂ laser. I used the same inset version of the Mariner’s Compass quilting pattern as before:

    Mariners Compass - stacked insets - LB layout
    Mariners Compass – stacked insets – LB layout

    The KT332N controller is set to a 7% minimum power, as the tube simply doesn’t fire below that level. The power levels shown below are the minimum and maximum for the layer.

    The cuts are on CD-R discs with the same general appearance, although I can’t say whether they all came from the same manufacturing lot. All of the cuts are on the clear side of the disc, with the data side flat against the platform. Unless otherwise noted, the pictures are from the clear side, looking down into the trenches carved into the surface, and you can see reflections of the cuts in the aluminized data layer.

    Power 7 to 10%:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7-10pct
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7-10pct

    Because the controller uses the minimum power at lower speeds, the laser fails to fire near the corners of the pattern.

    Power 8 to 10%:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 8-10pct
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 8-10pct

    The patterns generally begin in their upper-right corner where the laser has little enough power to prevent melting. However, the tube now continues firing as the laser slows for two other corners and melts a gouge into the surface.

    Power 7.5 to 10%:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7.5-10pct
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.5-10pct

    The gouges are less prominent, but not by much.

    Power 7.1 to 10%:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7.1-10pct
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.1-10pct

    Reducing the minimum power to just over the 7% absolute minimum reduces the size of (most of) the blobs, but also causes gaps in some of the lines and at the corners.

    Power 7.1 to 7.5%:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7.1-7.5pct start
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.1-7.5pct start

    Reducing the maximum power causes the tube to not fire at all for some vectors; it doesn’t fire at all with the maximum power set to 7.1%.

    However, the firing is very sensitive to the tube temperature, as that picture is for the first pattern around the disc rim with the cooling water temperature at 20.5 °C.

    The last pattern (which is just to the right of the first) looks much better with the coolant at 20.7 °C:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7.1-7.5pct end
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.1-7.5pct end

    It’s still not complete, but you can see the tube power has increased enough to melt blobs into the surface similar to those at higher maximum powers.

    Power 7.5 to 8%:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7.5-8pct
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.5-8pct

    Although the tube now fires continuously throughout the pattern, you can see thinner sections in the longer vectors over on the left.

    All of the pictures above are using assist air at 12 l/min, so there’s a stiff breeze blowing the smoke away from the laser beam. Turning the assist air off reduces the flow to 2 l/min and produces a much larger cloud of fumes over the surface that seems to deposit more crud around the vectors:

    CD-R vector cut - 2l-min assist air
    CD-R vector cut – 2l-min assist air

    The small MDF stops jammed in the honeycomb platform let me put all the CD-Rs at the same spot and reuse the same pattern with slight power variations and no realignment. It’s not perfect, but it’s pretty good.

    Power 7.5 to 8%, 2 l/min assist air:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7.5-8pct low air
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.5-8pct low air

    Notice the smudges to the left of center.

    Cleaning the surface with a soft cloth and a vigorous circular motion improves the result:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7.5-8pct low air cleaned
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.5-8pct low air cleaned

    If you’re being fussy about cleanliness, you might avoid scratching the otherwise pristine surface.

    I also burned the data side of a disc to wreck the lacquer and aluminized layer, rather than just the clear polycarbonate.

    Power 7.5 to 8% on data side, as seen from the data side:

    CD-R vector cut - data side - 7.5-8pct data side
    CD-R vector cut – data side – 7.5-8pct data side

    The same pattern on the same disc, seen from the clear side:

    CD-R vector cut - data side - 7.5-8pct clear side
    CD-R vector cut – data side – 7.5-8pct clear side

    Burning through the lacquer and aluminum produces a narrower trench and slightly smaller blobs at the junctions.

    Running near the tube’s minimum power produces unpredictable results, because the tube temperature matters. Variations of a few tenths of a degree can prevent the tube from firing, either intermittently or completely, so keeping the minimum layer power well above the minimum tube power is a Good Idea™ unless you can afford considerable scrap.

    It’s a slow way to wreck discs, but a nice way to produce suncatching coasters:

    Mariners Compass Coaster - CD data side finished
    Mariners Compass Coaster – CD data side finished
  • Smashed Glass Clutter Collector: Better Adhesive

    Smashed Glass Clutter Collector: Better Adhesive

    Pretty much as expected, the cheap craft adhesive sheet turned out to be inadequate to the task of holding the thin upper border ring onto the clutter collector:

    Layered Acrylic Desk Junk Collector - overview
    Layered Acrylic Desk Junk Collector – overview

    So I stripped the adhesive off with naptha and arranged a cut in a 3M 300LSE acrylic adhesive sheet:

    Desk clutter plate - 300LSE adhesive sheet
    Desk clutter plate – 300LSE adhesive sheet

    Four small tabs held that ring to the central piece while I stuck the acrylic ring on it, which turned out to be easy enough. Then I cut the tabs, peeled the paper off the other side, stuck the ring to the plate, and it’s once again ready for clutter.

    The bond is visibly better when viewed through the top of the ring, so I think the 300LSE adhesive is thicker and gooier than the craft sheet adhesive, which isn’t surprising at all.

  • CD/DVD Data Destruction: Mariner’s Compass Coasters

    CD/DVD Data Destruction: Mariner’s Compass Coasters

    Snap all the Mariner’s Compass inset layers together into a single LightBurn layout:

    Mariners Compass - stacked insets - LB layout
    Mariners Compass – stacked insets – LB layout

    Scale it to 120 mm OD, delete the innermost circles under 15 mm diameter, then go wreck yourself some CDs and DVDs:

    Mariners Compass Coaster - CD DVD tests
    Mariners Compass Coaster – CD DVD tests

    Those were test pieces to figure out speeds and powers starting from the polycarbonate settings used for the Guilloché DVD now serving as a coaster atop the laser.

    When you’re looking to destroy the surface, then pretty doesn’t matter, but they come out surprisingly nice in a techie sort of way:

    Mariners Compass Coaster - CD clear side test
    Mariners Compass Coaster – CD clear side test

    That’s burned into the clear side of the CD before I figured out how to control the power at the starting points.

    This CD-R came out a nice silver, with the tracks burned into the data / label side:

    Mariners Compass Coaster - CD-R test
    Mariners Compass Coaster – CD-R test

    The polycarb tends to scorch & discolor at the starting point of each polygon, where the laser dwells momentarily after lighting up. Avoiding that requires setting the minimum layer power 1% below the Ruida controller’s minimum firing power. In this case, running the layer at 7% minimum with the controller set to fire at 8% completely eliminates the scorches.

    The maximum power is about 10% for the clear side. The data side requires only 10% for lightly coated CD-R / CD-RW and maybe 25% for the heavily inked labels of pressed CDs (like the Dell reinstallation CD in the first picture). It helps to start with a vast supply of unwanted discs.

    Suiting action to words:

    Mariners Compass Coaster - CD data side finished
    Mariners Compass Coaster – CD data side finished

    That’s a CD-R wrecked on the data side, stuck to an MDF disk with a cheap craft adhesive sheet and a cork disk wood-glued to the bottom. Carefully hidden here, the central hole sports a 15 mm chipboard disk contrasting horribly with the CD; it cannot be more than 1 mm thick to avoid having it stick up beyond the plastic surface and chipboard is what I have in that thickness.

    The advantages of wrecking the data side:

    • Leaving the clear side smooth, so crud won’t accumulate / grow in the grooves
    • Absolutely, positively, utterly destroying the data track

    The advantages of wrecking the clear side:

    • Maybe breaking the seal formed by condensation under the mug / glass / cup
    • Leaving the data side intact, so the coating won’t disintegrate and peel off the adhesive

    In either case, however, I’m sure the data is gone.

  • Tiled Einstein Coasters

    Tiled Einstein Coasters

    When life gives you a sheet of tiled einsteins:

    Einstein tiling
    Einstein tiling

    You can make coasters:

    Einstein tiled coasters
    Einstein tiled coasters

    They’re rattlecan colored chipboard atop MDF atop cork, with the tiles cut from half a dozen sheets of einsteins. The lighter colors suffered from ineffective tape masking during cutting, producing more smudging than I’d like, but overall they look pretty good.

    I was surprised at how dull the black surround turned out and how good the gray appears: rapid prototyping & iteration in full effect.

    Unlike the layered paper version, these require a great deal of fiddly handwork.

    I hope the MDF will prevent the premature warping afflicting the chipboard-on-cork coasters. Perhaps shooting the assembled coasters with a clearcoat would help, although you do want coasters to be a bit absorbent, lest they stick to wet cups / mugs / glasses in humid weather.

  • Layered Paper: Einsteins

    Layered Paper: Einsteins

    Go to the source and bring back a suitable number of tiled einsteins:

    Einstein tiling
    Einstein tiling

    Import the bitmap into LightBurn, fiddle with the tracing until it lays down two lines along each border, apply a 1 mm inset to all the tiles, then scale & crop & delete to fit a 170 mm square:

    Einsteins - LB paper - top layer
    Einsteins – LB paper – top layer

    Cut one of those sheets, tape it to a sheet of white paper, fire up a calculator, generate a random number, write the first digit in the upper-left tile, and iterate to fill in all the tiles.

    Duplicate that layout and delete all the tiles marked with a zero to get the next layer.

    Iterate for all ten layers:

    Einsteins - LB paper cuts
    Einsteins – LB paper cuts

    Set up the fixture, do the Print-and-Cut alignment, then cut all the layers with different colors:

    Layered Paper cutting fixture - in use
    Layered Paper cutting fixture – in use

    Assemble the layers with some stick adhesive:

    Layered Paper - Einsteins
    Layered Paper – Einsteins

    Frame it and admire:

    Layered Paper - Einsteins
    Layered Paper – Einsteins

    It’s way busier than the quilt blocks, but I like it.

  • Layered Paper: Mariner’s Compass Insets

    Layered Paper: Mariner’s Compass Insets

    Given the geometry of the Mariner’s Compass block:

    Mariners Compass - top level shapes - LB layout
    Mariners Compass – top level shapes – LB layout

    Applying increasing insets to that top level produces a beveled result:

    Layered Paper - Mariners Compass - offsets - detail
    Layered Paper – Mariners Compass – offsets – detail

    Seen from a distance, you need oblique light to make any sense of it:

    Layered Paper - Mariners Compass - offsets
    Layered Paper – Mariners Compass – offsets

    It’s made from random sketch paper, rather than cardstock, and we all know how much the paper matters.

  • Layered Paper: Cutting & Assembly Fixtures

    Layered Paper: Cutting & Assembly Fixtures

    Time spent making a fixture is never wasted time:

    Layered Paper cutting fixture - in use
    Layered Paper cutting fixture – in use

    The general idea: securely hold a piece of paper flat while cutting it, so that it cannot move or warp, while letting the cut pieces fall out without snagging on anything underneath. The sheet holder I made a while ago worked reasonably well, but those thin metal blades tend to warp while cutting small patterns in restricted areas and the pieces definitely don’t fall free.

    The simple fixture I use while assembling the paper layers consists of four rivnuts poking through a chipboard upper layer, with a craft paper layer around the rivnut washers on the bottom:

    Layered Paper - alignment fixture
    Layered Paper – alignment fixture

    The cutting fixture uses a similar layout around a hole for freely falling chips:

    Layered Paper cutting fixture - installed
    Layered Paper cutting fixture – installed

    Next time, I’ll remove those three bars across the hole, because the MDF doesn’t need any support. Nearly all the chips fell out, so the fixture worked as intended.

    I trimmed the flange off the rivnuts so they would sit flat on the MDF:

    Layered Paper cutting fixture - trimming rivnut flange
    Layered Paper cutting fixture – trimming rivnut flange

    That’s the kind of job chuck stops really simplify.

    The cutting fixture requires pre-cutting paper into 200 mm squares with four 5 mm corner holes, which can be done three-abreast on the platform bars, then putting each sheet in the fixture to cut the shapes. That’s not much of a disadvantage compared to messing up an unsupported sheet.

    The cutting fixture has crosshair targets to align a LightBurn template using Print-and-Cut, thus eliminating the need to precisely locate the fixture on the platform. The finger-crushingly strong neodymium bar magnets do a fine job of holding the MDF in place on the steel platform.

    The small cutout rectangle in the lower right corner frames the sheet number, done in binary code with 0 = 1 mm circle and 1 = 2 mm circle:

    Layered Paper cutting fixture - layer binary code
    Layered Paper cutting fixture – layer binary code

    That’s the underside view of a completed stack with the 5 mm lower-right fixture hole on the left and the code for layer 11 = 0b1011 reading backwards. The small 0 holes have two lobes showing the Print-and-Cut alignment was off by maybe 0.3 mm; the off-center hole was in the blank sheet.

    Obviously, cutting tiny circles with a big laser at 300 mm/s doesn’t produce perfect results. You can see small wiggles in larger shapes:

    Layered Paper cutting fixture - cut wobbles
    Layered Paper cutting fixture – cut wobbles

    Unless you’re trying hard to find a problem, you’ll never notice them.