Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
After more-or-less constant use under a cup in the bathroom, a Snowflake Coaster has reached the end of its life:
Snowflake coaster – 1 yr use
The acrylic flake is fine, but the wood has mildewed:
Snowflake coaster – 1 yr use – detail
It’s second from the left in the bottom row:
Snowflake Coaster – assortment
All except the pair in the left column had a coat or two of rattlecan clear, which suggests wood-ish coasters need something much more durable, along the lines of clearcoat epoxy. No surprise there!
Paper sheets must lay flat in storage, but it’s impossible to extract a single sheet from a tall pile. So I converted some moving boxes into stackable trays, each holding about a ream of paper:
Letter Paper Tray – installed
The starting point is a stackable Universal Box from boxes.py, with one end reshaped to become a tray. One Home Depot Large moving box provides enough 4.0 mm cardboard to make four trays, with one side of the box left over for future projects:
Letter Paper Storage Racks – LightBurn screenshot
The gray rectangle in the middle is the LightBurn workspace grid representing the 700×500 mm laser platform:
Letter Paper Tray – laser cutting
Contrary to the screenshot, I move all the layouts off to the side leaving the platform grid clear. The blue rectangles around the layouts represent the various box flaps / sides, so I can:
Click a layout (which is grouped with the surrounding rectangle)
Click Ctrl-D to duplicate it
Hit P to put the duplicate at the middle of the platform grid
Lay the corresponding cardboard sheet from that box part on the platform
Align the layout with the cardboard using the camera
Fire The Laser
Copious application of hot melt glue gloms all the pieces together.
I added support beams under the cardboard bottom plate:
Letter Paper Tray – bottom
A 2 mm arch in the top of those strips puts a camber into the sheet to counteract the natural sag from carrying five pounds of paper. The four trays at the far left lack that camber and cry out for a Mulligan.
Some day the Basement Shop™ won’t smell like a campfire.
The dotted rectangle in the lower left corner is the (turned off) front light in my low-budget light box and the glare in the upper left comes from the overhead basement LED strip lights.
AFAICT, “metallic paper” consists of shiny aluminum film bonded to heavy paper / cardstock, with transparent colored film bonded atop the aluminum. The sheet is, of course, highly reflective, which looks dark unless it’s reflecting a bright surface, like the well-lit Sewing Room ceiling:
Metallic layered paper – vs art paper
I made the bright Pyrotechnics block in the upper left with art paper that looks bright & cheerful in any lighting:
Metallic layered paper – art paper Pyrotechnics block
Making 200×200 mm layered paper “pictures” involved cutting the square blanks from 8½×11 Letter sheets, putting those blanks in a fixture to hold them flat, then cutting the layer patterns:
Layered Paper cutting fixture – in use
That worked well enough, but it occurred to me that I should cut the patterns directly into the Letter sheet, with a couple of tabs on each edge holding the square to the sheet so it didn’t fall free.
A cardboard prototype showed this would actually work, at least after I fixed the tab width to keep them from just evaporating:
Pyrotechnics – metallized paper fixture
The top and bottom strips of tape hold cardboard bars that flatten the slightly curled metallic paper. The tape on the sides holds the cardboard flat to the knife bars across the laser platform.
A few adjustments later, I had an MDF version:
Letter paper fixture – cardboard vs MDF
Which fits atop the bars even better:
Letter paper fixture – on knife bars
Cutting colored paper definitely makes for cheerful chaff!
The two bar magnets hold the fixture in place on the steel platform rim. The aluminum knife bars stand slightly proud of the steel, so there’s a 1.4 mm chipboard shim glued under the fixture to put it flat on the bars.
The opening is 10 mm smaller than the Letter sheet to support it all around. The recess is 1 mm larger than the sheet to allow for slight size variations, with an MDF ring flattening the sheet:
Letter paper fixture – sheet in place
The four targets in the corners correspond to targets in the LightBurn template suitable for Print and Cut alignment:
Letter sheet template – LightBurn layout
The alert reader will note the fixture targets on the MDF fixture sit juuuust slightly to the right of where they are in the template. It turns out the targets cannot be grouped with anything else (or even each other), because when you select a target on the template for Print and Cut the center of the selection must match the location of the physical target on the fixture.
However, it’s convenient to have the rest of the template grouped into a single lump, so it’s painfully easy to select and move only the template while leaving the targets behind. It seems while setting up to mark & cut the template, I managed to click-n-drag the group a few millimeters to the left.
I eventually used Print and Cut to align the template and target with the corners of that MDF frame, re-engrave the targets at the correct locations, and scribble over the misplaced targets. If I don’t tell anybody, they’ll never know.
Having herded all the denizens of the Subpixel Zoo into one LightBurn workspace, framing them seemed appropriate:
SubPixel Zoo – wall hanging
We had some 18×24 inch frames which fit a standard construction paper size. The paper colors aren’t nearly as vivid as a real artist would want, but they’ll suffice for my simple needs.
Lay out a template and decide 180 mm blocks fill the frame:
SubPixels – LightBurn 18×24 template
Offse the blocks 2 mm outward for cutting clearance and make a fixture:
SubPixels – LightBurn 18×24 fixture
The outer rectangle matches a blank sheet of corrugated cardboard cut by hand to fit the platform. The inner rectangle marks a line around the 18×24 inch position of the paper, giving me a mark within which I can center the paper well enough by eyeballometric approximation.
Cutting the blocks and marking the lines produces the template:
SubPixel Zoo – laser fixture and chaff
It’s held in place by four finger-crushingly strong magnets. If I ever do this again, I’ll throttle back on the power for the corner targets, because the laser cannot reach the top speed marking the outline, so it cut through the top layer of cardboard at the targets.
Embiggen the blocks to 180×180 mm, rotate them to their new orientation, then snap them into copies of the new template:
SubPixels – LightBurn 18×24 layers
I can only envision these things in the landscape orientation that will fit the laser platform, but you could build them in their final portrait orientation and rotate the result.
I put the template pattern in the middle of the LightBurn workspace and use Print and Cut to align the fixture with the corner targets. Then it’s just a sequence of laying a sheet of paper on the fixture, selecting the corresponding layout, hitting P to snap the layout to the center of the workspace, and Firing The Laser.
It’s not nearly as pretty as Mary’s quilts, but now I have a wall decoration of my very own.
Although the images are algorithmically generated in a common layout, figuring out how to get the outlines as paths seemed to require a journey into the depths of the Pygame library and that would turn into a major digression.
Instead, start with one of the webp images:
sq_RGBY
The deliberate blurring apparently simulates what you see in real life.
Import the image into LightBurn, which converts it to grayscale under the plausible assumption you’re going to engrave the image on something. Then:
Create a rounded rectangle overlaying the lower-left-most subpixel to good eyeballometric accuracy
Turn it into a four-element rectangular array, twiddling the center-to-center spacing to match the subpixel layout
Duplicate those four upward in another array to create a subpixel block, as marked in the upper-left corner of the original image
Slam another array across the bottom row and upward, twiddling the spacing to match the subpixel block spacing along both axes
Which eventually looks like this:
SubPixels – LightBurn vector overlay
I made the final array absurdly large, cropped it with a square to match the template I used for the layered paper patterns, resized the result to be 170 mm on a side, then dropped the square into the middle of the template:
Subpixel Zoo – Quattron RGBY – LightBurn black mask layer
One gotcha: crop the subpixels on a Fill layer so LightBurn will close the truncated edges, then put them on a Line layer for cutting. The doc explains why, although it’s not obvious at first, as is the fact that you must delete the group of shapes outside the square before it looks like anything happened during the cut operation.
The resulting layout contains all the subpixel rectangles, so it’s what you want for the top black mask layer. Duplicate the pattern and delete the subpixels corresponding to each color, until you have one template for each of the Red / Green / Blue layers:
Subpixel Zoo – Quattron RGBY – LightBurn layers
The blank over on the right is the Yellow layer, which does get a quartet of layer ID holes cut in the lower right corner.
Then it’s just a matter of cutting the blanks, locating the fixture on the platform, dropping the appropriate color sheet in place, cutting it, then assembling the stack in the gluing fixture:
Subpixel Zoo – Quattron RGBY
It’s kinda cute, in a techie way.
I did a bunch of layouts, just to see what they looked like:
Subpixel Zoo – 8×8 layouts
In person, the RGBY patterns look bright and the RGB patterns seem dull by comparison. I’m using cardstock paper, rather than fancy art paper, which surely makes all the difference.