The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Oddities

Who’d’a thunk it?

  • Thing-O-Matic / MK5 Extruder: Resistor Autopsy

    Cooked thermal compound
    Cooked thermal compound

    Having built cartridge heater mounting blocks, I autopsied the two aluminum-case power resistors I’d been using on the MK5 Thermal Core. They weren’t dead yet, but I have some spares in case the cartridge heaters don’t work out as expected.

    First observation: the blue-tinted thermal compound I’d put under the resistors turned white! It has a 200 °C maximum rating, so it’s been cooked well beyond any reasonable limit. On the other paw, it was still soft and didn’t have any air bubbles; the resistors were pretty firmly glued in place.

    Based on those thermal measurements, I had replaced the original parallel-connected 5 Ω resistors with series-connected 2 Ω resistors, thus reducing the power dissipation in each resistor from 28.8 W to 18 W. While that’s still far beyond the specification, every little bit of reduction helps.

    In round numbers, the resistors ran at 50-75% duty cycle to maintain Thermal Core temperatures in the 200-230 °C range. I guesstimate I had 10-15 power-on hours on the resistors, but that may be a lowball estimate: time passes quickly when you’re having fun.

    Anyhow, I slipped a brass tube around one resistor terminal, braced the other end on the drill press vise, and pressed the cores out.

    Resistor elements
    Resistor elements

    The top core literally fell out without any urging, which means that it had shrunk and separated from the housing. That means the resistor was well on its way to failing: a loose core gets hotter and deteriorates faster.

    The bottom core was still firmly attached and disintegrated as I forced it out, which means it was in good condition. Paradoxically, the crumbled resistor core in the picture came from the resistor in the best shape.

    Given that I ran these resistors at 63% of the original power level, the fact that one was well on its way to heat death after only (at most) a few tens of hours suggests that you shouldn’t expect much life from the stock MK5 resistors. If you haven’t already done so, electrically isolate the thermocouple bead from the Thermal Core to protect the Extruder Controller.

    I’m unwilling to sacrifice a new resistor to see if that discoloration is normal, but I suspect it’s not. The ends should be the coolest part of the resistor, which means the middle is discolored, but that picture suggests the opposite, so I really don’t know.

    I’d hoped the ID of the resistor bodies would match the OD of the cartridge heaters. That didn’t work out: 0.275 vs 0.250. They’re also a bit too short. If the match was closer, I could see slipping a shim in there, but having two air gaps around the heater just doesn’t make any sense at all.

  • Homebrew Shell Drills

    One of my Shop Assistant’s friends asked for help with a Science Project: building a trumpet-like musical instrument from some sort of tubing. We adjourned the meeting to the local Big Box home supply store, measured various options, and returned with a stock of CPVC pipe and fittings.

    Given the budget and physical size of the valves, plus the fact that she planned to make tuning stubs from vinyl tubing, I suggested making all the connectors from fishmouthed sections of the CPVC pipe, which called for a bit of Quality Shop Time before the next build session.

    A shell drill is what you use when you want a really big hole all the way through something, so the middle just falls right out. They’re handy for drilling in fragile / delicate material, because the shell supports the material until the drill reaches the far side. They’re also dead simple to make, at least when you’re drilling soft materials, which is pretty much all I do.

    I always start by rummaging through the collection to find an existing shell drill that’s close enough to the right size that I can cut it down or bore it out. Here’s the assortment, some of which are obviously victims of previous modifications:

    Shell drill assortment
    Shell drill assortment

    This one was slightly too chubby, with plenty of meat:

    Original shell drill
    Original shell drill

    That was easy to fix:

    Shell drill with reduced OD
    Shell drill with reduced OD

    While I was at it, I cleaned out the ID to reduce the tooth thickness. That reduces the force applied to the workpiece, which I figured would be a Good Thing considering the size of the pipe.

    Fishmouthing CVPC tubing
    Fishmouthing CVPC tubing

    If you must start from scratch, all you need is a rod that fits inside a tube of some sort: the rod must be chuckable in your drill press and the tube must be about the right diameter for the hole-to-be-drilled. Turn them to suit on the lathe, then press / bash / braze / epoxy / pin them together, paying some attention to concentricity and alignment.

    Cross-drill two holes near the business end of the tube, with diameters 1/4 to 1/2  of the tube diameter. Cut off the end to remove about 1/4 of the drilled holes. File some relief on the web between each pair of holes and you’re done.

    The holes provide all the rake you could possibly want (take off more of the hole if you need less rake) and filing gives plenty of relief (what you see is grossly too much). None of this is critical for drilling soft stuff; you’ll need more attention to detail in a steel-cuttin’ shell drill.

    Then clamp the pipe in the drill press and have at it! The teeth have enough rake that it’ll be grabby, so control the downward force and be sure the vise has a good grip on the pipe.

    The trick is to support the pipe by ramming a dowel into its snout from one end or the other, thus preventing the sideways forces from deforming the ever-thinning end. This will take some practice, so buy a spare length of pipe.

    After some of that and a bit of cleanup, we had a handful of connectors like these:

    Fishmouthed tube connectors
    Fishmouthed tube connectors

    Which eventually became the trumpet’s valve assembly:

    CPVC trumpet valve assembly
    CPVC trumpet valve assembly

    My Shop Assistant turned wood dowels to a slip fit in the pipe, we drilled suitable holes and Dremeled passageways to convert the dowels into pistons, and it actually worked pretty well. Not nearly as resonant as a brass trumpet, but that wasn’t the design objective.

    Haven’t heard how they fared in the competition, but it was a fun project!

  • Sears Water Softener Venturi Gasket

    So I finally noticed that the water wasn’t nearly as soft as it used to be, which usually means I forgot to dump a bag of salt in the tank. This time, the water was halfway up the tank, which usually means something’s broken.

    The usual cause: crud clogging the filter screen upstream of the venturi that sucks brine out of the tank. The usual fix: rinse the screen.

    This time, however, the screen was clean. Pulling the gasket off the nozzle assembly revealed a collection of particles and chunks inside the fluidic channels; this is what the gasket looked like after I sorted everything out.

    Original gasket and venturi
    Original gasket and venturi

    The gasket has at least three layers: a stiff red backing, a compliant green middle layer, and a white surface layer with molded channels matching the red nozzle. The two black cylinders are metering plugs with precisely shaped orifices that control the 0.1 and 0.3 gallon/minute brine and rinse flows.

    The green and white layers evidently disintegrated into chunks that blocked the nozzle. With no flow through the venturi, the tank could fill until the float valve limited the flow, but the brining step had a very, very low flow and the resin bed eventually ran out of capacity.

    I ordered a replacement nozzle and gasket assembly, figuring that Sears (actually, its OEM supplier) might have changed things in a non-compatible way. The old part numbers, which will get you the new equivalents:

    • Gasket: 7163663
    • Nozzle + gasket: 7187772

    The new parts looked like this:

    Replacement venturi and gasket
    Replacement venturi and gasket

    Surprise! The fancy molded gasket is no more; the replacement is a flat rubber sheet with the appropriate alignment notches and holes. The nozzle assembly might have come out of the same molding machine on the same shift.

    I reassembled all the fiddly parts, manually set the softener to its Brine stage, let it suck a few inches of salt water out of the tank, and then returned it to automatic operation. At this point, the water heater is full of hard water and it’ll take a few repetitions of that cycle to get back to normal.

    Given the limits of the gasket’s resolution, I’m sure the Batman icon is completely coincidental and sincerely regretted…

  • Thing-O-Matic: Ouch!

    This should be obvious, but don’t reach across the build platform of your Thing-O-Matic with the extruder at 215 °C: you might bump the nozzle with the back of your hand.

    Scorch mark from TOM nozzle
    Scorch mark from TOM nozzle

    It never really hurt, but the nozzle tip made a nasty punch mark in the middle of a disk of scorched skin.

    Ah, you’re not that stupid, are you…

    Memo to Self: Gloves?

  • Thing-O-Matic / MK5 Extruder: DC Motor Safety Lamp vs Fuse

    The MK5 Extruder’s DC motor seems prone to a shorted-winding failure that reduces the DC resistance of (at least) one pole to (at best) a few ohms. The A3949 H-bridge driver has an upper limit of 2.8 A, but the failed winding jams too much current through the chip and eventually (instantly?) kills it stone cold dead.

    Discussions on the Makerbot Wiki tended to favor fuses. My buddy Eks suggested putting an incandescent lamp in series with the motor leads, as described there, and that’s what I’ve done. That discussion is also informative.

    It’s worth noting that the A3949 datasheet has this to say about overloads:

    Output current rating may be limited by duty cycle,
    ambient temperature, and heat sinking. Under any
    set of conditions, DO NOT exceed the specified
    IOUT or TJ.
    

    So all this may be irrelevant: any transient overload could kill the driver chip stone cold dead, regardless of how clever you (think you) are.

    Anyhow.

    Yesterday I came across my Big Box of Fuses and said the obvious thing:

    Let’s Find Out!

    Note: that’s not the same as the Famous Last Words “Hold my beer. Watch this!”

    I clipped the oscilloscope across a 1 Ω power resistor, set a 3 A bench power supply to 12.0 V, and connected a Device Under Test between the +12 V lead and the resistor:

    • The #89 bulb from my TOM
    • A Littelfuse 3AG 1 A fast-blow fuse (actually, two of ’em)
    • A dead short

    I used a 1 A fuse because that’s what I have. I strongly suspect a 1/2 A fuse would behave about the same way.

    The oscilloscope trace starts at 0 V, jumps when the DUT contacts the resistor, and then settles at the final current. The 1 Ω resistor makes the vertical scale read directly in amps. Pay attention to the horizontal scale.

    First, the lamp:

    Type 89 Lamp
    Type 89 Lamp

    The peak current hits 4.5 A before the bulb lights up and limits the current to about 600 mA in the steady state. The supply’s current limiter doesn’t seem to come into play: the bulb wrestles the current under 3 A before the supply notices what’s going on. Indeed, it’s under 3 A in 2 ms and below 1 A in 20 ms.

    Next, the fuse:

    Littelfuse 3AG 1A Fast - 50 ms
    Littelfuse 3AG 1A Fast – 50 ms

    The peak current starts off-scale high, well in excess of 7A, drops to the power supply’s 3 A limit, then falls to zero when the fuse blows 76 ms later.

    Finally, the dead short:

    Bare 1 ohm resistor
    Bare 1 ohm resistor

    I changed the vertical scale to capture the initial peak, which tops out just under 10 A, obviously not limited by the power supply. The supply eventually clamps the current to 3 A and, because there’s no fuse, the current just sits there.

    So…

    The lamp does a much better job of protecting the H-bridge chip than the fuse:

    • The peak current is lower
    • It cuts off sooner
    • And the sustained current falls well within the chip’s limit

    The TOM does not have a current-limited +12 V supply, which means a nominally “protective” fuse will conduct whatever current the failing motor’s winding will permit until it eventually blows. The time-to-blow depends on the fault current: if the winding fails at, say, 6 Ω the fuse will last much longer while it passes 2 A than with the 3 A you see here.

    Here’s an example of how that works. The first time I tapped the fuse to the resistor, I flinched and it fell off:

    Littelfuse 3AG 1A Fast - 20 ms
    Littelfuse 3AG 1A Fast – 20 ms

    That’s indistinguishable from a blown fuse, but the same fuse subsequently produced this result (another fuse died to produce the first fuse picture):

    Littelfuse 3AG 1A Fast - 100 ms
    Littelfuse 3AG 1A Fast – 100 ms

    Moral of the story: a 1 A fuse can pass 3 A for 80 ms and live to tell the tale!

    Of course, I knew how this would work out: Eks didn’t accumulate 100+ patents during his career by not knowing what he was doing…

    [Update: It works just like it should! Bacon saving in full effect!]

  • Bulk Ink Delivery

    Now, I’m a big fan of continuous ink supply systems for desktop printers and buy ink by the pint, but these folks put me to shame…

    US Ink Delivery Truck
    US Ink Delivery Truck

    It’s delivering ink to the Southern Dutchess News plant in Wappingers Falls.

  • ATX Power Supply Dual +12 V Outputs: Fakery Thereof

    I wondered if the Thing-O-Matic would benefit from having its two high-current heaters on a separate +12 V supply than the DC Extruder, after finding that the heaters dragged the +12 V output down by nearly half a volt.

    A bit of rummaging turned up a suitable ATX supply with a data plate that might justifiably lead one to believe that the supply provides separate +12 V outputs:

    Turbolink ATX-CW420W power supply data plate
    Turbolink ATX-CW420W power supply data plate

    There’s no indication which of the four connectors might use +12V1 and +12V2, but, being that sort of guy, I applied an ohmmeter to the various yellow wires and found they were all exactly 0.0 Ω apart.

    Huh.

    So I opened the Warranty Void If Seal Removed top cover and found this situation:

    ATX with fake dual 12 V supplies
    ATX with fake dual 12 V supplies

    Nota bene:

    • All the yellow wires terminate in the same solder blob below the PCB
    • Two incoming wires got neatly spliced together in mid-air, despite having free holes in the PCB

    This may not come as much of a shock: they lie…

    Perhaps if you spend more money on your supply, it’ll actually live up to the data plate specs. Then, again, perhaps you’ll just be spending more money.

    And, if you swap in a fancy supply for the MBI-stock one, it might not make much difference at all. I suspect the various power levels and current capacities have pretty much the same degree of integrity…