Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
That comment prompted me to rummage around for one of my favorite photos: a much younger version of my Shop Assistant helping us shred leaves in the front yard.
Shop Assistant in Autumn leaf pile
She thinks it’s entirely right & proper to:
don safety goggles while doing anything even remotely eye-unsafe
wear a dust mask to mow the lawn
jam 30 dB foam plugs into her ears during thrash metal concerts
As the scrawled notation says: printed at 50 mm/s with 100 mm/s moves. The only cleanup: remove the scaffolding and slice off the Reversal zittage.
If the truth be known, that was actually the third knot. The first suffered a spectacular failure: one corner of the filament spool snagged on the wall behind the printer and jammed the filament:
Large Knot – failed
The filament drive pulled all the slack out of the bundle, broke off three of the six internal guide posts (admittedly, they’re just hot-melt glued in place), and dragged a nasty kink halfway down the feeder tube. Obviously the stepper was shedding steps during that whole process, but it came rather close to doing the Ouroboros thing.
While that went down, I was puttering around in the far reaches of the Basement Laboratory, attempting to clean up a bit of the clutter, and checking in on the printer every now and again. Seemed like a good idea at the time, is all I can say.
Perhaps the Lords of Cosmic Jest simply decided this was an appropriate object to mess with. The vertices of the hexagonal filament spool stick out perhaps 10 mm from the printer’s backside and every one has cleared the wall on countless previous rotations. I moved the entire affair a bit further from the wall and maybe it’ll be all good from now on.
The supply voltage for that picture came from a bench supply and, having confirmed that the initial slope of the current waveform matched the voltage, I twiddled the knob while watching the slope change.
As expected, lower voltage = lower slope and higher voltage = higher slope. That worked fine, right up until a firecracker popped about a foot in front of my face, launched a missile over my left shoulder, and filled the Basement Laboratory with the pungent smell of electrical death.
Detonated electrolytic cap
While wiring up a hairball test circuit for that Pololu driver, I’d put a pair of electrolytic caps on the +5 and +12 V supply lines, seeing as how solderless breadboards aren’t all that great for power distribution. The brown fur growing just to the upper right of the heatsink is what’s left of a 16 V cap that had 25 V applied for a few seconds: I’d wired in the bench supply in place of the breadboard’s fixed +12 V output and forgot all about the caps.
The cap body departed for the far reaches of the Basement Laboratory, leaving behind shredded cardboard and unrolled plastic strips. I’m sure it’ll turn up some day.
Nothing else took any damage, but for a few minutes I thought I’d killed Eks’ AM503 current probe, which pokes in from the lower right.
The black lump just above the probe is an ordinary AC current transformer that didn’t work well at all: the 1/rev frequency was just too low.
If you don’t always wear glasses at the workbench, start now.
Mary quite deliberately brought home a pair of bedbugs… even knowing what we went through, you cannot imagine how dead those things had to be. She doesn’t just want them dead, she wants them extinct.
Anyhow.
Some pix, atop a scale with 0.5 mm divisions:
Bedbug – 4 mm – dorsalBedbug – 4 mm – ventralBedbug – 6 mm – dorsalBedbug – 6 mm – ventralBedbug – 6 mm – mouthparts
They were actually on load from Cornell’s Co-op lab, having recently been distinguished from bat bugs.
The Judges at the Trinity College Home Firefighting Robot contest use butane grill igniters to light the candles in the arenas, but the gadgets seem to have terrible reliability problems: very often, they simply don’t work. I brought a few deaders back to the Basement Laboratory this April and finally got around to tearing them apart.
It seems they don’t ignite because the trigger’s safety interlock mechanism shears the plastic gas hose against the fuel tank’s brass outlet tube:
Grill igniter with sheared gas tube
I tried putting a small brass tube around the (shortened and re-seated) hose, but it turns out the trigger interlock slides into that space and depends on the hose bending out of the way:
Grill igniter with brass tubing
So there’s no easy way to fix these things.
It seems to me that a device using flammable gas should not abrade its gas hose, but what do I know?
One might reasonably be led to believe that the white dot on the part marks the LED anode. That’s what I thought, too, but the innards are actually rotated 180° from the picture: the dot marks the transistor collector.
Took me a while to figure that out; I eventually tore one apart and used my pocket camera to look for the blue-white glare of the IR emitter.
After the dust settled, I rummaged around in the impacted shitpile holding my paper documents and found the original 1982 datasheet, with my very own scrawled notes:
Original OPB815 Datasheet Pinout Diagram
Back in the day, the dot on pin 1 marked the transistor collector…
Memo to Self: No, scanning all that old paper wouldn’t help.
This from a restroom near the new high school auditorium, rebuilt at vast expense over the course of several years. You’d think for all the big bucks, somebody would remember that trim plates require a flat surface.
It’s not like I’ve never forgotten a detail in any of my designs. In this case, though, several different people surely noticed this situation and none of them were sufficiently empowered to fix the problem.
I’ve got a ten cent bet with myself that this will never get repaired. I’ll likely never know, though, as my Shop Assistant graduates this year.