The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Propane Tank QD Adapter Tool

    Although it’s common practice to exchange your empty 20 pound propane tank for a full one, I vastly prefer to keep my own tanks: I know where they’ve been, how they’ve been used, and can be reasonably sure they don’t have hidden damage. Two of my tanks have old-style threaded connections, but the barby has a quick-disconnect fitting on the regulator and I’ve been using an adapter on those tanks.

    The adapter comes with a plastic tool that you use to install it in the tank valve. In principle, you insert the tool into the adapter, thread the adapter into the valve, then tighten with a wrench until the neck of the plastic tool snaps, at which point you eject the stub and the adapter becomes permanently installed. I don’t like permanent, so I carefully tightened the adapter to the point where the O-ring seals properly and the tool didn’t quite break. I’ve always wanted a backup tool, just in case the original broke, and now I have one:

    Propane QD Adapter Tool - in adapter
    Propane QD Adapter Tool – in adapter

    It fit into both the adapter body and the 5/8 inch wrench (the OEM tool is 9/16 inch) without any fuss at all:

    Propane QD Adapters - OEM and printed
    Propane QD Adapters – OEM and printed

    The solid model has a few improvements over the as-printed tool above:

    • Shorter wrench flats
    • More durable protrusions to engage the locking balls
    Propane QD Adapter Tool
    Propane QD Adapter Tool

    It took about an hour to design and another 45 minutes to print, so it’s obviously not cost-effective. I’ll likely never print another, but maybe you will.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Propane tank QD connector adapter tool
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU November 2012
    
    include </mnt/bulkdata/Project Files/Thing-O-Matic/MCAD/units.scad>
    include </mnt/bulkdata/Project Files/Thing-O-Matic/Useful Sizes.scad>
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with +1 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 2.0 * ThreadThick;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    WrenchSize = (5/8) * inch;		// across the flats
    WrenchThick = 10;
    
    NoseDia = 8.6;
    NoseLength = 9.0;
    
    LockDia = 12.5;
    LockRingLength = 1.0;
    LockTaperLength = 1.5;
    
    TriDia = 15.1;
    TriWide = 12.2;										// from OD across center to triangle side
    TriOffset = TriWide - TriDia/2;		// from center to triangle side
    TriLength = 9.8;
    
    NeckDia = TriDia;
    NeckLength = 4.0;
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    h=Height,
    	   $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
    Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-------------------
    // Build it...
    
    $fn = 4*6;
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    union() {
    
    	translate([0,0,(WrenchThick + NeckLength + TriLength - LockTaperLength - LockRingLength + Protrusion)])
    		cylinder(r1=NoseDia/2,r2=LockDia/2,h=LockTaperLength);
    
    		translate([0,0,(WrenchThick + NeckLength + TriLength - LockRingLength)])
    		cylinder(r=LockDia/2,h=LockRingLength);
    
    	difference() {
    		union() {
    
    			translate([0,0,WrenchThick/2])
    				cube([WrenchSize,WrenchSize,WrenchThick],center=true);
    
    			cylinder(r=TriDia/2,h=(WrenchThick + NeckLength +TriLength));
    
    			cylinder(r=NoseDia/2,h=(WrenchThick + NeckLength + TriLength + NoseLength));
    		}
    
    		for (a=[-1:1]) {
    			rotate(a*120)
    				translate([(TriOffset + WrenchSize/2),0,(WrenchThick + NeckLength + TriLength/2 + Protrusion/2)])
    					cube([WrenchSize,WrenchSize,(TriLength + Protrusion)],center=true);
    		}
    	}
    }
    
  • Waterproof RGB LED Strip

    Another package from halfway around the planet brought 5 meters of waterproof RGB LED strip, which may be useful for projects like longboard lighting. Not having worked with a waterproof strip before, I snipped off a segment:

    Waterproof RGB LED Strip - one segment
    Waterproof RGB LED Strip – one segment

    The waterproof coating seems to be a soft silicone or acrylic pour with roughly the consistency of Gummy Bear tummy, so cutting it off requires a delicate touch to avoid slicing the flex circuit board:

    Waterproof RGB LED Strip - peeled top
    Waterproof RGB LED Strip – peeled top

    It doesn’t actually bond to the circuit board, though, and if you get a sharp blade underneath, can be peeled away. I suspect this means water will eventually make its way into the circuitry and you shouldn’t expect to submerge the strip in a fish tank. I scraped the contacts clean, which probably isn’t the right way to do it:

    Waterproof RGB LED Strip - end view
    Waterproof RGB LED Strip – end view

    The underside makes no pretension of being waterproof and you can peel / roll / rub the adhesive off the contacts:

    Waterproof RGB LED Strip - peeled bottom
    Waterproof RGB LED Strip – peeled bottom

    Does anyone else doubt the authenticity of that 3M logo? The production values look rather low, but maybe it’s just me.

    The trouble with soldering contacts to the bottom is the ensuing lump that prevents good adhesive bonding. The trouble with soldering contacts on the top is the surgery required to remove the coating. You can get punch-through contacts with snake-bite fangs, but even the vendors admit to about a 20% failure rate, which implies it’s pretty much a crapshoot.

  • Braided Wind Chime

    Fish Wind Chime
    Fish Wind Chime

    A few days of high & gusty winds braided the cords of the aluminum fish school wind chime hanging over the end of the patio:

    It’s obviously an old, much-repaired relic.

    My Shop Assistant added those blue fins many years ago, quite some time after she and a friend lost one of the fish while using them as digging implements. An unmarked replacement fish, crudely bandsawed from black-coated aluminum, began swimming in stealth mode amid the school.

    Sometimes it’s not the object, it’s the memories…

  • Pull Tab Cord Replacement

    The braided cord on the NSA pull tab dangling from my belt pack has a monofilament core:

    Worn tab cord
    Worn tab cord

    The Basement Laboratory Warehouse Wing doesn’t have an exact replacement, but braided nylon fishing line should come close:

    Pull tab - braided nylon line
    Pull tab – braided nylon line

    If I keep a closer watch on the situation, maybe I can replace the cord before the tab goes missing…

  • Magnesium Water Heater Anode Rod: Seven Years Later

    There never seems to be a good time to drain your water heater and check the anode rod, but I finally found a Round Tuit…

    Pursuant to that comment, I drained a few gallons before applying the six-point 1-1/16 inch socket and loosening the anode rod without fuss or bother. I couldn’t get a good finger grip on the bolt head inside the enlarged hole, but a long-nose Vise-Grip pliers did the trick:

    Gripping anode rod bolt
    Gripping anode rod bolt

    The first look showed a solid bar of corrosion:

    Anode rod emerging
    Anode rod emerging

    You can see the 3/4 inch socket wrench in the background: I didn’t need the breaker bar this time!

    The magnesium anode rod corroded down to the steel core wire just under the bolt head:

    Anode rod - bolt
    Anode rod – bolt

    The entire rod was about half a foot shorter than the new one, but I cannot tell whether that much corroded away or rods have gotten longer (they’ve certainly gotten more expensive):

    Anode rod - tip
    Anode rod – tip

    I sawed the rod to get it out of the heater, because I also wanted to see how much magnesium remained inside the corrosion. Quite a lot, as it turned out, so I suppose I could have reinstalled the rod and left it for another few years:

    Anode rod - cut ends
    Anode rod – cut ends

    I don’t know where all the corrosion products went, because the water heater drained uneventfully, without clogging the valve or depositing a pile of crud at the end of the hose. There were a few particles, but nothing like the residue from the aluminum rod.

    Then I cleaned off a new magnesium rod, tilted the water heater to get enough clearance, installed the rod with a wrap of PTFE tape, and reinstalled the water supply lines. I suspect the next owners of the place will be looking at it a decade down the calendar…

    If I had more guts and less sense, I’d chuck the bar stubs in the lathe and turn off the corrosion to get some nice steel-core magnesium rods. The prospect of extinguishing a magnesium fire in the basement doesn’t entice me in the least.

  • 30 Year Clock: The Janus Movement

    After 30 years, IBM gave Mary a commemorative clock, after which she promptly retired. Back in the day, they used to hand out Atmos clocks (admittedly, on more momentous occasions), but this isn’t one of those. In fact, although it appears to have a torsion pendulum, that’s a separate motor-driven foo-foo which we immediately turned off:

    Janus Clock - front
    Janus Clock – front

    It normally sits on the living room coffee table (which actually holds a myriad plants next to the front window) where, after we scrapped all the upholstered furniture, the two of us can’t both see the clock face from our chairs. Having a spare clock insert from that repair, we had the same bright idea at the same time: we need a clock with two faces! We came up with Janus independently…

    Despite its fancy appearance, the IBM clock consists mostly of brass and plastic, so I had no qualms about having my way with it in the shop. The new clock insert spanned the clock’s gilt plastic back cover, needing only a #1 drill hole for the adjustment stem, and exactly filled the available space between the back cover and the case. Both movements had enough interior clearance for 3-48 brass screw heads and nuts, so I eyeballed the right spots on the new cover, centered the Sherline spindle on the plate, and drilled two clearance holes 6 mm in from the edges on the vertical diameter:

    Drilling clock insert cover
    Drilling clock insert cover

    That put them 61.3 mm apart across the diameter, which would be awkward to duplicate by hand. Manual CNC makes it trivially easy to match-drill holes; I clamped down the gilt back cover from the IBM clock, aligned it to the table, located the center, and drilled two 3-48 clearance holes:

    Drilling torsion clock cover
    Drilling torsion clock cover

    The glow from that polycarbonate packing block isn’t quite so nuclear in real life. The clamping force goes down the side panels of the cover, which had enough of a curve to be perfectly stable. Yes, I’m drilling into air, but came down real slow using the Joggy Thing and it was all good.

    Assemble the two back covers (the holes matched perfectly), mark the adjustment stem hole, disassemble, hand-drill, reassemble, tighten nuts, and install:

    Janus Clock - rear
    Janus Clock – rear

    It does look a bit lumpy from the side, but that’s just because I don’t have any gilding for the black tape wrap:

    Janus Clock - side
    Janus Clock – side

    There, now, that was easy.

  • Technical Excellence Clock: New Movement

    IBM Tech Excellence Award Desk Clock
    IBM Tech Excellence Award Desk Clock

    Long ago, in a universe far away, IBM gave Mary a desk clock as part of that Technical Excellence Award:

    The double-stick foam tape holding the plate on the front aged out a few years later, at which point I cleaned off the solidified goo, drilled 2-56 clearance holes in the plate and tapping holes in the clock base, installed four pan head stainless screws, and neatly aligned the slots. That’s what it should have looked like from the beginning; this was, after all, a Technical award…

    The clock movement failed recently and I got a drop-in clock insert from Klockit to put it back in operation. The fit wasn’t quite solid, but two wraps of silicone tape around the case under the ribbed friction-fit band solved that problem.

    One new movement cost just about as much as the shipping, so I bought a pair with black and white faces.  Mary picked the white face for this clock, which left the black movement as a spare.

    Tomorrow: what to do with a spare clock insert.