The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Laser Cutter: Letter Paper Storage Trays

    Laser Cutter: Letter Paper Storage Trays

    Paper sheets must lay flat in storage, but it’s impossible to extract a single sheet from a tall pile. So I converted some moving boxes into stackable trays, each holding about a ream of paper:

    Letter Paper Tray - installed
    Letter Paper Tray – installed

    The starting point is a stackable Universal Box from boxes.py, with one end reshaped to become a tray. One Home Depot Large moving box provides enough 4.0 mm cardboard to make four trays, with one side of the box left over for future projects:

    Letter Paper Storage Racks - LightBurn screenshot
    Letter Paper Storage Racks – LightBurn screenshot

    The gray rectangle in the middle is the LightBurn workspace grid representing the 700×500 mm laser platform:

    Letter Paper Tray - laser cutting
    Letter Paper Tray – laser cutting

    Contrary to the screenshot, I move all the layouts off to the side leaving the platform grid clear. The blue rectangles around the layouts represent the various box flaps / sides, so I can:

    • Click a layout (which is grouped with the surrounding rectangle)
    • Click Ctrl-D to duplicate it
    • Hit P to put the duplicate at the middle of the platform grid
    • Lay the corresponding cardboard sheet from that box part on the platform
    • Align the layout with the cardboard using the camera
    • Fire The Laser

    Copious application of hot melt glue gloms all the pieces together.

    I added support beams under the cardboard bottom plate:

    Letter Paper Tray - bottom
    Letter Paper Tray – bottom

    A 2 mm arch in the top of those strips puts a camber into the sheet to counteract the natural sag from carrying five pounds of paper. The four trays at the far left lack that camber and cry out for a Mulligan.

    Some day the Basement Shop™ won’t smell like a campfire.

    The LightBurn SVG layout as a GitHub Gist:

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  • Juki TL-2010Q Bottom Cover

    Juki TL-2010Q Bottom Cover

    Mary gave her Juki TL-2010Q sewing machine a deep cleaning & oiling, deputizing me to remove & replace the covers.

    For the record, standing the machine on its left end is the least-awful way to get the bottom cover off and on:

    Juki TL2010Q - bottom cover on end
    Juki TL2010Q – bottom cover on end

    You must remove all six of those husky screws; the black feet remain firmly stuck in their recesses. It’s not particularly stable in that orientation, so keep a firm hand on the top to prevent an expensive fall.

    I laid it down for the rest of the session:

    Juki TL2010Q - interior cleaning
    Juki TL2010Q – interior cleaning

    She was unenthusiastic about wearing my headband light. Maybe next time.

    It reassembled in reverse order and, after a brief tussle with the bobbin winder finger in the upper covers, runs smoothly.

  • Metallic Layered Paper

    Metallic Layered Paper

    With various iterations of the Letter sheet fixture in place, I made some layered paper “art” using metallic paper:

    Metallic layered paper - Pyrotechnics block
    Metallic layered paper – Pyrotechnics block

    That’s the Pyrotechnics quilt block pattern.

    This is the RGBY Subpixel pattern:

    Metallic layered paper - RGBY subpixels
    Metallic layered paper – RGBY subpixels

    The dotted rectangle in the lower left corner is the (turned off) front light in my low-budget light box and the glare in the upper left comes from the overhead basement LED strip lights.

    AFAICT, “metallic paper” consists of shiny aluminum film bonded to heavy paper / cardstock, with transparent colored film bonded atop the aluminum. The sheet is, of course, highly reflective, which looks dark unless it’s reflecting a bright surface, like the well-lit Sewing Room ceiling:

    Metallic layered paper - vs art paper
    Metallic layered paper – vs art paper

    I made the bright Pyrotechnics block in the upper left with art paper that looks bright & cheerful in any lighting:

    Metallic layered paper - art paper Pyrotechnics block
    Metallic layered paper – art paper Pyrotechnics block

    That’s the difference between specular reflectors and Lambertian reflectors.

    I cut the metallic paper face-down in the fixture:

    Pyrotechnics - metallized paper fixture
    Pyrotechnics – metallized paper fixture

    Although I’m underwhelmed by the metallic-layered-paper results, the stuff does make spectacular chaff:

    Letter paper fixture - on knife bars
    Letter paper fixture – on knife bars

    I should give our neighbor’s two-year-old lad a gift box …

  • Laser Cutter: Letter Page Fixture

    Laser Cutter: Letter Page Fixture

    Making 200×200 mm layered paper “pictures” involved cutting the square blanks from 8½×11 Letter sheets, putting those blanks in a fixture to hold them flat, then cutting the layer patterns:

    Layered Paper cutting fixture - in use
    Layered Paper cutting fixture – in use

    That worked well enough, but it occurred to me that I should cut the patterns directly into the Letter sheet, with a couple of tabs on each edge holding the square to the sheet so it didn’t fall free.

    A cardboard prototype showed this would actually work, at least after I fixed the tab width to keep them from just evaporating:

    Pyrotechnics - metallized paper fixture
    Pyrotechnics – metallized paper fixture

    The top and bottom strips of tape hold cardboard bars that flatten the slightly curled metallic paper. The tape on the sides holds the cardboard flat to the knife bars across the laser platform.

    A few adjustments later, I had an MDF version:

    Letter paper fixture - cardboard vs MDF
    Letter paper fixture – cardboard vs MDF

    Which fits atop the bars even better:

    Letter paper fixture - on knife bars
    Letter paper fixture – on knife bars

    Cutting colored paper definitely makes for cheerful chaff!

    The two bar magnets hold the fixture in place on the steel platform rim. The aluminum knife bars stand slightly proud of the steel, so there’s a 1.4 mm chipboard shim glued under the fixture to put it flat on the bars.

    The opening is 10 mm smaller than the Letter sheet to support it all around. The recess is 1 mm larger than the sheet to allow for slight size variations, with an MDF ring flattening the sheet:

    Letter paper fixture - sheet in place
    Letter paper fixture – sheet in place

    The four targets in the corners correspond to targets in the LightBurn template suitable for Print and Cut alignment:

    Letter sheet template - LightBurn layout
    Letter sheet template – LightBurn layout

    The alert reader will note the fixture targets on the MDF fixture sit juuuust slightly to the right of where they are in the template. It turns out the targets cannot be grouped with anything else (or even each other), because when you select a target on the template for Print and Cut the center of the selection must match the location of the physical target on the fixture.

    However, it’s convenient to have the rest of the template grouped into a single lump, so it’s painfully easy to select and move only the template while leaving the targets behind. It seems while setting up to mark & cut the template, I managed to click-n-drag the group a few millimeters to the left.

    I eventually used Print and Cut to align the template and target with the corners of that MDF frame, re-engrave the targets at the correct locations, and scribble over the misplaced targets. If I don’t tell anybody, they’ll never know.

    The LightBurn SVG layout as a GitHub Gist:

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  • Laser-Cut Vole Trap Boxes

    Laser-Cut Vole Trap Boxes

    We deployed low-effort vole trap boxes a few weeks ago, only to discover no voles checked in, most likely due to wintertime gardens consisting of bare earth. I had weighted the boxes with convenient rocks that pretty much crushed them flat during rainstorms.

    So I converted a few dozen square feet of cardboard into better-looking boxes and transferred the traps:

    Vole Finger Box - large
    Vole Finger Box – large

    That one has a rat trap inside.

    Smaller boxes hold mouse traps:

    Vole Finger Box - small
    Vole Finger Box – small

    Two pairs of 4 mm holes on the bottom flanges fit some spare irrigation pipe holddowns to, yes, hold them down, with those rotten planks keeping their lids in place.

    They’re lightly customized “Electronics Boxes” held together by hot-melt glue. The jawbreaker URLs will get you started:

    Cardboard remains the wrong material, but my stockpile remains well-stocked.

  • TEC Drawing Kit: Reconditioned Cover

    TEC Drawing Kit: Reconditioned Cover

    Our Young Engineer recently rebuilt the cover of a “vintage” drawing kit, with fabric pockets for protractors & scales and real leather hinges, thereby raising a long-procrastinated project to the top of my to-do list:

    TEC Drawing Set - top old
    TEC Drawing Set – top old

    I know my father used it when he took drafting after high school in 1929. His penmanship and drawing ability were up to par well before that.

    The inside sports a TEC logo:

    TEC Drawing Set - open old
    TEC Drawing Set – open old

    Some searching revealed it’s a No. 718 Drafting Set from the Technical Supply Company of Scranton and appeared in their 1913 catalog:

    TEC Brand Catalog p68
    TEC Brand Catalog p68

    The printing on the inside of the flap differs, but the logo has TEC in the middle.

    My father did not attend college and, in the teeth of The Great Depression, $26.50 was certainly too spendy for his family:

    CPI Calculator - 1929 to 2025
    CPI Calculator – 1929 to 2025

    When the catalog was printed in 1913, No. 718 cost the equivalent of $862.82. Nowadays, similar sets once again cost about twenty bucks on eBay, which tells you something about economics.

    None of that information changes what I know.

    Having recently touched a roll of Kraft-Tex while shelving some boxes, this seemed reasonable:

    TEC Drawing Set - top new
    TEC Drawing Set – top new

    It lacks pockets for the tools I’ve added:

    TEC Drawing Set - scales new
    TEC Drawing Set – scales new

    In retrospect, I should have used two leather snaps, but three would be excessive.

    I folded the Kraft-Tex flat across a steel scale to make the first folds around the base, then finger-crimped folds at the top of the base with subsequent crisping around the scale:

    TEC Drawing Set - open new
    TEC Drawing Set – open new

    The underside of the original case seemed stable:

    TEC Drawing Set - case bottom
    TEC Drawing Set – case bottom

    This may be sacrilege, but I saw no point in peeling the bottom just to cover it up,so I stuck the Kraft-Tex in place with a rectangle of adhesive sheet.

    It doesn’t look the same, but it still gives me a warm feeling.

    It still has the tiny wrench needed to adjust all its screws:

    TEC Drawing Set - wrench
    TEC Drawing Set – wrench

    It’s on 0.1 inch graph paper and is 40 mil = 1 mm thick, should you want to make your own. The blades taper down to essentially a knife edge, which is why it’s made from hard blue steel.

    I remember being fascinated by that little pig when I was a pup.

    Putting some scraps to good use, I stuck a cushion in the anvil for the next time I punch down a leather snap:

    Leather Snap kit - cushioned anvil
    Leather Snap kit – cushioned anvil

    The LightBurn SVG layout as a GitHub Gist:

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  • LED Strip Lights: Window Moulding Mounts

    LED Strip Lights: Window Moulding Mounts

    The object of the game being to tilt the LED strip lights at (maybe) 30° to put more light higher on the wall and further out on the ceiling, with the overriding constraint of no visible holes. Given their eventual home atop the window moulding along the front wall of the Living Sewing Room, these seemed adequate:

    LED Bar Lamp Mount - solid model
    LED Bar Lamp Mount – solid model

    The hole on the angled part fits an M4 brass insert and the recessed holes capture the washer-like head of a sharp-point lath screw.

    Two pairs applied to the lights sitting atop the Fabric Cabinets served to verify the fit:

    LED strip light - moulding mount - on cabinet
    LED strip light – moulding mount – on cabinet

    They’re held firmly by the aluminum extrusion and don’t need a bigger footprint to remain stable.

    So I made another six, stuck on ⅞ inch strips of aluminized Mylar (cut from a bag in much better condition), and drilled holes where they can’t be seen:

    LED strip light - moulding mount - installed
    LED strip light – moulding mount – installed

    It’s almost too bright in there with 3 × 40 W of LED lights washing the wall and ceiling:

    LED strip light - moulding mount - lit
    LED strip light – moulding mount – lit

    I don’t like the cold 6000 K color temperature, but Mary doesn’t mind it. They fill the Sewing Table with shadowless / glareless light, although that kind of light makes the place look like a store.

    I think moving the strip lower and away from the wall could hide the entire mount from view.

    Contrary to what I expected, the Mylar reflectors must be at least an inch tall to avoid Baily’s Beads seen from across the room:

    LED strip light - short reflector
    LED strip light – short reflector

    With all that in mind, we’ll run these for a while to shake out any other improvements.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // LED light bar mounts
    // Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
    // 2025-03-16
    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    Layout = "Show"; // [Show,Build,ScrewMount,BarMount]
    BaseAngle = 30; // [0:50]
    /* [Hidden] */
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    Protusion = 0.1;
    NumSides = 3*4;
    Radius = 1.5;
    $fn = NumSides;
    MouldWidth = 18.0; // nominal (3/4) * INCH, but lots of paint slop
    MouldScrew = [4.7,12.0,2.6]; // clearance, head OD, head thick
    Insert = [4.0,5.5,6.0 + 3.0]; // heat-set brass without pilot end
    BarClip = [33.0,15.0,11.0]; // snaps around led base
    ScrewBlockOA = [MouldWidth,MouldScrew[OD] + 2*Radius + 2.0,10.0];
    BarBlockOA = [BarClip.x*cos(BaseAngle),15.0,BarClip.x*sin(BaseAngle) + 2*ScrewBlockOA.z];
    Gap = 2.0 + max(ScrewBlockOA.y,BarBlockOA.y);
    //———-
    // Define shapes
    module ScrewMount() {
    difference(){
    cuboid(ScrewBlockOA,anchor=BOTTOM,rounding=Radius,except=[FRONT,BOTTOM,LEFT]);
    up(ScrewBlockOA.z – MouldScrew[LENGTH])
    zrot(180/NumSides)
    cylinder(d=MouldScrew[OD],h=MouldScrew[LENGTH] + Protusion);
    down(Protusion)
    cylinder(d=MouldScrew[ID],h=2*ScrewBlockOA.z);
    }
    }
    module BarMount() {
    difference() {
    cuboid(BarBlockOA,anchor=CENTER,rounding=Radius,edges=RIGHT);
    yrot(BaseAngle)
    cube([3*BarBlockOA.x,2*BarBlockOA.y,BarBlockOA.z],anchor=BOTTOM);
    yrot(BaseAngle)
    cylinder(d=Insert[OD],h=2*Insert[LENGTH],anchor=CENTER);
    }
    }
    module Mount() {
    union() {
    right(ScrewBlockOA.x/2) back(ScrewBlockOA.y/2)
    ScrewMount();
    right(BarBlockOA.x/2) fwd(BarBlockOA.y/2) up(BarBlockOA.z/2)
    BarMount();
    }
    }
    //———-
    // Build things
    if (Layout == "ScrewMount")
    ScrewMount();
    if (Layout == "BarMount")
    BarMount();
    if (Layout == "Show")
    Mount();
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    yflip_copy(Gap) Mount();
    }