The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Little Machine Shop 5200 7×16 Mini-Lathe: Way Finishing

    Ya gotta have a lathe, so I replaced the big South Bend lathe with a Little Machine Shop 5200 7×16 Mini-lathe, because it’s toward the better end of the mini-lathe spectrum and, as Eks put it, it’s not the worst lathe you could own. Having had some experience with the Sherline’s cramped work envelope, the extra two inches of bed seemed like a Very Good Idea.

    Ted Hansen’s articles on “Additions and Modifications to a Mini-Lathe” began in the September 2012 Home Shop Machinist and continue to this day, which hints at what’s needed to bring one of these puppies up to contemporary community standards. Unfortunately, HSM doesn’t offer a book or DVD with all the articles in one place; you can buy all the back issues or map the borders of your ethics.

    Although the LMS 5200 incorporates many of Hansen’s tweaks (which was a powerful motivation for buying that package; I really don’t need a major diversion right now), it has plenty of room for improvement. In one of his earlier articles, he observes that you may be reluctant to dismantle the lathe, particularly the headstock and apron, because you’re afraid of disturbing the factory alignment. He then says something like “Don’t worry, that won’t be a problem.”

    He’s absolutely correct.

    Before putting the lathe in service, take it completely apart, wiping off the excess oil as you go, and reassemble it while paying attention to the obvious details. There’s nothing really breakable inside and the thing will run much better after a simple laying-on-of-hands “repair”.

    The condition of the ways was … disappointing, even though I wasn’t expecting much. As nearly as I can tell, final way alignment, done by precision grinding or  hand-scraping for spendy tools, consisted of a few passes with a hand-held angle grinder.

    The tailstock doesn’t really need a sliding fit, because it operates while clamped to the bed; the flat way is rugged:

    LMS Mini-lathe - tailstock flat way
    LMS Mini-lathe – tailstock flat way

    Its V-groove isn’t much better:

    LMS Mini-lathe - tailstock V-groove
    LMS Mini-lathe – tailstock V-groove

    The compound ways are sliding joints, albeit with few points of contact:

    LMS Mini-lathe - compound way
    LMS Mini-lathe – compound way

    The chromed (!) protractor dial has what Eks calls a “used car polish”: high shine over deep scratches.

    The cross-slide ways seem to be slightly concave, with a single contact point on the far left end and a few more on the right:

    LMS Mini-lathe - cross-slide way
    LMS Mini-lathe – cross-slide way

    The carriage flat leaves much to be desired:

    LMS Mini-lathe - carriage flat way - detail
    LMS Mini-lathe – carriage flat way – detail

    That red patch toward the left isn’t left-over scraping blue:

    LMS Mini-lathe - carriage V way - detail
    LMS Mini-lathe – carriage V way – detail

    I have no intention of spending all the time required to hand-scrape those things, Moglice seems like overkill (and has an imposing minimum thickness), and Turcite requires reasonable surface finish (and adds considerable thickness, too).

    I’m mildly temped to apply a thin layer of good ol’ JB Weld epoxy, just to fill in the valleys and improve the contact area, but not right now.

  • Recommended Stubby Multi-Driver

    This recently acquired Klein 32561 Stubby Multi Driver is definitely better than the others in my collection:

    Klein Stubby Multi Driver
    Klein Stubby Multi Driver

    The steel shaft has a 1/4 inch hex socket on one end, a 5/16 hex socket on the other, the two hex bits handle the usual screws, and it’s smaller than it looks.

    You must figure out what to do with the loose driver bit while using a socket.

    No ratchet, but you won’t miss it.

    Available from the usual online sources for about ten bucks; accept no substitutes…

  • Monthly Science: Chrysalid Engineer

    So then this happened:

    Karen - canonical tiger paw graduation picture
    Karen – canonical tiger paw graduation picture

    Yeah, tanker boots and all; not the weirdest thing we saw during RIT’s graduation ceremonies.

    This summer marks her fourth of four co-op semesters with Real Companies Doing Tech Stuff and her final classes end in December; RIT holds one ceremony in the spring and being offset by a semester apparently isn’t all that unusual. She (thinks she) has a job lined up after graduation and doesn’t need her doting father’s help.

    But, hey, should you know someone with a way-cool opportunity (*) for a bright, fresh techie who’s increasingly able to build electronic & mechanical gadgets and make them work, drop me a note and I’ll put the two of you in touch. [grin]

    (*) If that opportunity should involve 3D printed prosthetics with sensors and motors, she will crawl right out of your monitor…

  • Ersatz 5.5 mm Nut Driver

    A tiny 1/4 inch hex driver handle appeared from the far reaches of a drawer, sporting a handle better suited for tweaking the 3 mm adjusting nuts on the bottom of the M2’s platform than applying actual torque to real fasteners. Rather than breaking a set of nut drivers, I made a simple brass shim to soak up the difference between the handle’s 6.5 mm ID hex and the 5.5 mm OD of the nuts:

    Hex driver shim - installed
    Hex driver shim – installed

    That’s 15 mil = 0.40 mm shimstock to leave enough clearance for my crude forming technique.

    Which technique consisted of making a “mandrel” by lining up a trio of Nyloc nuts on a screw, snipping off a suitable shimstock rectangle, and squashing it into shape with parallel-jaw pliers:

    Hex driver shim - forming
    Hex driver shim – forming

    As you’d expect, the shimstock hex came out larger & uglier than the mandrel:

    Hex driver shim - formed
    Hex driver shim – formed

    But that doesn’t matter after it’s tucked inside the driver; it works perfectly.

    Took less time to do than to write up …

  • Micro-Mark Mini Bandsaw

    Unlike their craptastic Mini Miter/Cut-off saw, the Micro-Mark Variable Speed Mini Bandsaw seems like a solid improvement over the corresponding Harbor Freight offering:

    Micro-Mark Bandsaw - mostly ready
    Micro-Mark Bandsaw – mostly ready

    That’s the tank for the water-cooling option atop the housing, with the collection tray underneath. It’s screwed to a big wood plank; I’ll probably bench-mount the thing, but that’s stable enough for now.

    The right-rear mounting screw hides below the dust collection vacuum port:

    Micro-Mark Bandsaw - vacuum fitting
    Micro-Mark Bandsaw – vacuum fitting

    You must remove the metal fitting that’s screwed to the frame in the obvious manner:

    Micro-Mark Bandsaw - right rear screw - installed
    Micro-Mark Bandsaw – right rear screw – installed

    The slowest speed runs a bit faster than I’d like, but I admit to being a sissy.

    The 14 tpi blade cuts wood just fine:

    Micro-Mark Bandsaw - first cut
    Micro-Mark Bandsaw – first cut

    The 24 tpi blades should chop up the smaller chunks I generally work with around here.

    Bonus: the blade guide just barely clears my huge block of machinable wax.

     

  • Micro-Mark Mini Miter / Cut-off Saw

    I bought a 2 inch Micro-Mark Mini Miter / Cut-off Saw to cut screws & brass tubing, in the hopes that it would be somewhat better than the essentially equivalent Harbor Freight offering. I think that’s true, but it’s a near thing.

    Apparently, the saws all come from the same factory with the same bass-ackwards vise:

    Micro-Mark Cutoff Saw - vise side view
    Micro-Mark Cutoff Saw – vise side view

    The V-groove should be on the fixed jaw, where it would more-or-less precisely align rods / cylinders with the blade. The moveable jaw isn’t dovetailed to the base of the vise, so it ends up wherever it stops and, somehow, they managed to machine the end of the screw shaft off-center from the shaft, so the moveable jaw moves in a small circle as you tighten it.

    A small punch mark locks the jaw to the screw; you can pull the disk on the shaft past the indentation by turning the knob with sufficient enthusiasm:

    Micro-Mark Cutoff Saw - clamp jaw detail
    Micro-Mark Cutoff Saw – clamp jaw detail

    The hole in the vise, just under the disk, lets somebody whack the jaw with a punch.

    Some machining or an entirely new vise setup lies in the future of this thing.

    I mounted it on a scrap of countertop by transfer-punching the base holes, only to discover that the punch didn’t leave a mark for one hole, even though a dent was clearly visible at the bottom of the hole with the saw on the countertop.

    A bit of headscratching later:

    Micro-Mark Cutoff Saw - unfinished casting hole
    Micro-Mark Cutoff Saw – unfinished casting hole

    Apparently the core for that hole in the injection mold didn’t seat quite right. The layer was thin enough to drill out easily.

    The blade is identical with the Harbor Freight blades I’m using on the Sherline, right down to the printed legend declaring it fits saws with non-Micro-Mark part numbers:

    2 inch blades - Micro-Mark vs Harbor Freight
    2 inch blades – Micro-Mark vs Harbor Freight

    Granted, the Micro-Mark blade on the left has nicer printing, but MM blades run $15 each and HF offers a three-pack for ten bucks. Note the carefully positioned thumb in the Micro-Mark picture.

    Beware of cheap imitations!” says Micro-Mark.

  • Craftsman Mower Flywheel Key: Intact

    The mower tried to eat a protruding root, emitted a horrible crash, and ran poorly until I shut it off, after which it refused to restart. Hoping against hope that the flywheel’s aluminum key had sheared, I pulled the cover, removed the starter, and found:

    Mower flywheel key
    Mower flywheel key

    Alas, the key is in fine shape. I made the two diagonal scratches to confirm it really is aluminum.

    After letting the mower sit for a day, it started and ran briefly, blatted a giant backfire that probably startled the neighborhood (because I had the exhaust aimed into the garage, which served as a wonderful resonator), died a sudden death, then made clanking sounds whenever I pulled the rope. Something is definitely broken inside, but I suspect diagnosing & fixing it will require more time and money than is justified.

    I no longer form deep emotional attachments to lawn mowers, so I ordered a similar one online and the local Sears had it ready for pickup in an hour.

    If I had to pull the flywheel, I’d tap the two obvious holes (one behind the shaft in the picture) and gimmick up a puller with two matching screws around a central bolt that does the heavy lifting; I can’t justify the Special Service Tool I’m sure it requires.

    The old mower lasted an hour at the foot of the driveway with a “FREE – Engine probably severely broken” sign affixed to its handle; both parties got a great deal on that transaction!