Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
An adjacent pair of PolyDryer boxes have black and orange PETG filament:
PolyDryer – PETG – 27 pctRH Black 25 pctRH Orange
They’ve been sitting closed up for a week or so, with only 25 g of activated alumina in the desiccant holder (no tea bags with additional desiccant) pulling moisture out of their air and, presumably, filament.
The desiccant from the black filament weighed 29.0 g, showing it pulled 4.0 g of water out of the air, 16% of its original weight.
The “aluminum oxide” curve shows 16% adsorption should correspond to more than 50% RH, so the numbers don’t quite match up. On the other paw, I don’t know how much I can trust the meter accuracy.
I replaced the desiccant with 25 g of silica gel, tucked a humidity indicating card into the box, and snapped it closed again. The orange PETG box also got an indicating card so I can compare results.
The OEM fan inside the PolyDryer is annoyingly loud, even to my deflicted hearing, so I printed a Noctua NF-A4x10 fan adapter and installed a much quieter fan:
PolyDryer – Noctua fan installed
The adapter is upside-down from the suggested orientation, I didn’t bother screwing it to the fan because it has sleeves fitting into the fan screw holes, the slot holds everything together, the vivid green EVA foam sheet sits atop a craft adhesive sheet (both cut with scissors!) ensuring they don’t part company, and it works just fine.
Of course, the OEM fan has a three-wire cable and the Noctua has a four-wire cable:
PolyDryer – OEM vs Noctua fan cables
Although you can’t quite make it out on the white plastic, both connectors have their Pin 1 marks adjacent to each other. I oriented them like that to put the pin release latches on top; a foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of small minds.
Fortunately, Noctua documents their pinout, a bit of probing verified the OEM fan pinout (which does not match the Noctua 3-wire pinout), and the Basement Warehouse Wing emitted an assortment of matching JST XHP connectors. Chop off the black connector and rewire it in a 3-pin XHP connector:
Pin 1 = OEM Red → Noctua Yellow = +24 V
Pin 2 = OEM Yellow → Noctua Green = Tachometer
Pin 3 = OEM Black → Noctua Black = Ground / Common
unused = Noctua Blue = PWM Speed Control
Which is barely visible plugged into the control PCB on the left:
PolyDryer – Noctua fan wiring
The brown thermocouple wire in the upper right didn’t start out in the notch intended to pass it out of the air flow downwind of the heater:
PolyDryer – crunched thermocouple wire
The wire is exceedingly stiff and requires some persuasion, but it will eventually stay in that slot.
One of the PolyDryer modifications (which I can no longer find) suggested improving the vent openings, because the default slats block more than half of the surface area:
PolyDryer – molded vent slats
I chopped out all but three of the slats and stuffed an arch of aluminum window screen into each recess:
PolyDryer – vent screens installed
Admittedly, it looks a bit raggedy:
PolyDryer – vent screen – detail
As far as I can tell without actually measuring anything, the air flow has increased.
Now, to see how whether all that makes any difference.
Mary found the wrench I made five years ago in the bottom of her tool bucket:
Hose Valve Knob – five years later
Having moved away from the garden with all the valves that wrench turned, it can now go into the 3D Printed Sample Box for use in the unlikely event I ever give another talk on the subject.
I’d design it differently these days, what with BOSL2 in my sails, but it got the job done.
With the quilt off the HQ Sixteen, I could install the 24 V power supply for the Nose Ring Lights:
HQ Sixteen Nose Ring Lights – power supply installed
IMO, black nylon screws look spiffier than brass.
The solid model shows the covers have a 2 mm overlap with the power supply case to keep them lined up:
HQ Sixteen Nose Ring Lights – power supply cover – solid model
I managed to reuse three of the five holes from the previous 12 V power supply and drill only three more:
HQ Sixteen Nose Ring Lights – power supply detail
The tops of the power supply ears aren’t quite flat, giving the standoffs a slight tilt that the covers mostly drag back into alignment.
The M4 brass standoffs screw into holes tapped in the thick plastic, thus eliminating nuts inside the power pod:
HQ Sixteen Nose Ring Lights – power supply wiring
The yellow silicone tape wraps two pairs of Wago connectors that dramatically simplify electrical connections in anything with enough space for their chonky bodies.
In the unlikely event you need such things, the original post links the OpenSCAD source code.
With the power supply in place, I think I can put some LED strips under the arm of the machine to light up more of the quilt than the nose lights can reach. More pondering is in order.
A critter made off with our battered plastic rain gauge, so I set up an Ambient Weather WS-5000 station to tell Mary how much rain her garden was getting. I added the Official Bird Spike Ring around the rain gauge to keep birds off, but robins began perching atop the anemometer while surveying the yard and crapping on the insolation photocell.
After a few false starts, the anemometer now has its own spikes:
Weather station with additional spikes
It’s a snugly fitting TPU ring:
Weather Station Spikes – build test piece
The spikes are Chromel A themocouple wire, because a spool of the stuff didn’t scamper out of the way when I opened the Big Box o’ Specialty Wire. As you can tell from the picture, it’s very stiff (which is good for spikes) and hard to straighten (which is bad for looking cool).
The shape in the middle is a hole diameter test piece. Next time around, I’ll use thicker 14 AWG copper wire:
Weather station spikes – test piece
The test piece showed I lack good control over the TPU extrusion parameters on the Makergear M2, as holes smaller than about 2 mm vanish, even though the block’s outside dimensions are spot on. This application wasn’t too critical, so I sharpened the wire ends and stabbed them into the middle of the perimeter threads encircling the hole.
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It just barely clears the curved air guide inside:
PolyDryer airlock plate – tiny fan installed
The tea bags full of desiccant allow some wind between them and the filament in the spool, but I obviously must re-think that setup. There’s enough clearance for what should be reasonable circulation, so i defined it to be good enough for now.
The box of TPU started at 25 %RH, dropped to 22 %RH overnight, then returned to 25 %RH the next day:
PolyDryer TPU – 25 pct RH
Now that I’m watching more often, I’ve seen the meter glitch to 10% for a few seconds:
PolyDryer TPU – 10 pct RH glitch
A humidity indicator card suggests the air is under 20 %RH:
PolyDryer TPU – humidity indicator card
It may be the filament can outgas water vapor as rapidly as the desiccant can remove it, but I expected the fan to make at least a little difference.
For unknown reasons, the handle on the porch screen door was installed less than one finger width from the frame, so I conjured a pair of plastic plates shifting it far enough to prevent finger pinches and avoid the screws for the outside handle:
Porch door handle repositioning
The original holes now have M4 threaded wood inserts and the holes in the ¼ inch acrylic have M4 heat-staked brass inserts, mostly because I had everything on hand.
This was part of a project to trim the bottom of the door to clear the porch floor boards, which evidently continued warping after they trimmed the door to fit:
Porch door trimming
That thin blue line suggests the highest part of the floor was once near the bottom of the picture, but it’s now the lowest part. The highest part is now near the hinge side near the top of the picture, firmly jamming the door in place.
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning 