The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • LED-ified Halogen Desk Lamp: DC LED Driver

    LED-ified Halogen Desk Lamp: DC LED Driver

    Feeding half-wave rectified 12 V AC into the 4 W LED lamp I hung on the end of the halogen desk lamp worked at human scale, but produced dark bars across images made with my Pixel phones. Having solved that problem for the LED lighting on Mary’s sewing machines, I replaced the OEM transformer with a 12 VDC power supply:

    LED Desk Lamp - Driver installed
    LED Desk Lamp – Driver installed

    The steel lump inside the base is the OEM weight that, in addition to two pounds of transformer, kept the whole affair from toppling over.

    The transformer inside the DC supply weighs basically nothing:

    LED Desk Lamp - Driver PCB
    LED Desk Lamp – Driver PCB

    The original 12 VAC transformer powered a 50 W halogen bulb and loafed along at 14.7 VAC (yes, RMS) into the 4 W LED. The light is somewhat dimmer at 12 VDC, but not enough to worry about.

    Aaaaand the photo bars are gone!

  • Shopvac QSP Motor Commutator Cleaning

    Shopvac QSP Motor Commutator Cleaning

    The Greatest Shopvac emitted an intense smell of electrical death while inhaling fuzzballs from the Basement Shop stairs, prompting me to tear it down. For the record, it’s a Genuine Shop·Vac QSP 10 (Quiet Super Power):

    Shopvac QSP - label
    Shopvac QSP – label

    Removing the handle and upper plate reveals a slab of (presumably) sound-deadening foam over the motor cooling fan. As far as I can tell, the last job this vacuum had before the previous owner discarded it was inhaling drywall dust without a filter:

    Shopvac QSP - upper sound baffle
    Shopvac QSP – upper sound baffle

    Flipping the motor assembly over and removing the bottom plate revealed a pair of equally solidified foam slabs baffling the main exhaust path:

    Shopvac QSP - sound baffle foam
    Shopvac QSP – sound baffle foam

    They eventually became Clean Enough™ after protracted rinsing, so maybe the thing now runs as quietly as the name would lead you to believe, if you believed in names.

    Disconnecting and extracting the motor revealed the razor-sharp impeller disk. A shop rag prevents lacerations while torquing off the nut holding it to the shaft:

    Shopvac QSP - impeller nut
    Shopvac QSP – impeller nut

    Rust on the washer below the impeller, along with the layer of caked white cement, suggested water accompanied the drywall dust:

    Shopvac QSP - impeller washer
    Shopvac QSP – impeller washer

    Gentle suasion from the Designated Prydriver eventually eased the washer off the shaft and freed the motor:

    Shopvac QSP - motor brush layout
    Shopvac QSP – motor brush layout

    It’s an old-school series-wound brushed universal motor. The plastic plate in the middle of the picture has a helical spring pressing the carbon brush against the commutator:

    Shopvac QSP - motor brush detail
    Shopvac QSP – motor brush detail

    The rotor turned … reluctantly with the brushes in place and spun freely without them, suggesting the horrible smell of electrical death came from arcing across the gunk accumulated on the commutator:

    Shopvac QSP - commutator as found
    Shopvac QSP – commutator as found

    Many iterations of diligent scrubbing with denatured alcohol on cotton swabs and old t-shirt snippets got rid of the crud, although that commutator will never look all shiny-clean again:

    Shopvac QSP - commutator cleaned
    Shopvac QSP – commutator cleaned

    At least the brushes aren’t glued to it!

    Reassembly is in reverse order, although I took the liberty of splicing a few inches of wire into the switch leads, because I’m not working under factory conditions with all the proper assembly fixtures:

    Shopvac QSP - extended wires
    Shopvac QSP – extended wires

    The motor passed the smoke test and no longer smells like death, so it’s at least as good as it ever was.

    It may run quieter with clean foam baffles, but I still turn off my power ears or don hearing protection when I fire up any shop vacuum.

  • CNC 3018 Tool Clamp Rehabilitation

    CNC 3018 Tool Clamp Rehabilitation

    The CNC 3018 Z-axis stage has a plastic clamp holding the spindle motor, so I just duplicated the motor diameter in the mounts for my diamond drag bit, cheap pen, and fancy pen holders. For obvious reasons, I tend to err on the small side for anything intended to fit into anything else, which led to each of the holders sporting a small strip of tape to soak up the difference.

    While poking around the 3018, I once again noticed the clamp’s crappy fit around the holder:

    CNC3018 tool clamp - top
    CNC3018 tool clamp – top

    The inside should be circular, but it’s definitely not:

    CNC3018 tool clamp - top detail
    CNC3018 tool clamp – top detail

    The end of the 30 mm M3 SHCS bottoms out before the clamp closes, although I’ve managed to crank the screw tight enough to put enough of a dent in there to snug the clamp:

    CNC3018 tool clamp - side
    CNC3018 tool clamp – side

    Some awkward scraping and filing eroded enough of the plastic to let a 25 mm SHCS close the clamp firmly around the holder:

    CNC3018 tool clamp - revised
    CNC3018 tool clamp – revised

    The tool holders now slide in easily with the screw released and fit firmly with the screw tightened a reasonable amount, minus the tape snippets shimming the difference.

    If I had the courage of my convictions, I’d take it all apart, bore the clamp out to a circular profile, realign the clamp screw passage to suit, then rebuild all those tool holders for the new diameter; it now works well enough to tamp that project down.

  • Jonas Peeler Repair

    Jonas Peeler Repair

    The blade on one of the Jonas vegetable peelers cracked, which suggests it’s the counterfeit version:

    Jonas Peeler - cracked blade
    Jonas Peeler – cracked blade

    I grooved the metal pin running through the handle:

    Jonas Peeler - shaft grooving
    Jonas Peeler – shaft grooving

    A brass tube from the Little Tray o’ Cutoffs and some epoxy should hold things together forevermore:

    Jonas Peeler - epoxy
    Jonas Peeler – epoxy

    The rainbow colors come from an instantly aborted attempt to silver-solder the parts together. The fact that I even tried a stunt like that shows I’m definitely not the brightest bulb in the chandelier these days.

  • OXO Not-salt Grinder: Aluminum Shaft

    OXO Not-salt Grinder: Aluminum Shaft

    Having recently emptied the OXO pepper grinder we (mistakenly?) bought as a salt mill, I took it apart for a deep rinsing and cleanup:

    OXO salt-pepper mill - aluminum shaft
    OXO salt-pepper mill – aluminum shaft

    It turns out the somewhat corroded square shaft is aluminum, neither the cheap steel I expected nor the stainless steel it should be. Perhaps OXO cost-reduced the shaft, discovered aluminum is a poor choice in a saline environment, and changed the packaging to compensate?

    Removing / installing the Jesus clip requires careful whacking with a hollow-tip punch against the shaft, with the whole affair laid flat on shop towels, the handle held down to prevent rotation, and the wrap-around body capturing the escaping clip.

    Shaft corrosion as of Summer 2020:

    OXO Salt Mill - corrosion
    OXO Salt Mill – corrosion

    Soaking the body in hot water got rid of salt crusts and filled the shell with water. There being no way to completely dry the thing, I parked it in the sun for a day, refilled it, and was unsurprised when the (dried) salt turned into an assortment of moist crystals.

    We obviously need a real salt mill …

  • DIY e-Bike Conversions & Solid Modeling: Presentation

    DIY e-Bike Conversions & Solid Modeling: Presentation

    I’ll be talking about e-bikes and the solid modeling required to hang a Bafang motor and battery on your favorite bike for the Poughkeepsie Chapter of the ACM at 1930 EDT this evening:

    Bafang Battery Mount - Show view
    Bafang Battery Mount – Show view

    It’s a Zoom meeting, so (in the unlikely event you have nothing better to do) you could actually “attend”. The ACM meeting description and the Meetup announcement will get you there.

    A PDF of the presentation slides (remember slides?) includes copious linkies to sources / blog posts / distractions:

    If you’re only in it for the geometry, the OpenSCAD source code lives slumbers in a pair of GitHub Gists:

    Tour Easy

    Terry Symmetry

    Enjoy …

  • Improved Mini-lathe Disk Turning Fixture

    Improved Mini-lathe Disk Turning Fixture

    Unsurprisingly, the mini-lathe lacks enough stiffness to apply enough force to hold a disk in place while turning its rim:

    Tour Easy Rear Running Light - end cap fixture - swirled adhesive
    Tour Easy Rear Running Light – end cap fixture – swirled adhesive

    The old South Bend lathe had mojo, but those days are gone.

    So drill and tap that fixture for an M3 screw, then stick some coarse sandpaper to it:

    Improved disk turning tool
    Improved disk turning tool

    Snug the screw (a Torx T9 from the Small Drawer o’ Random M3 Screws) down on a rough-cut disk:

    Improved disk turning tool - in use
    Improved disk turning tool – in use

    Sissy cuts remain the order of the day, but the screw applies plenty of clamping force and doesn’t require the hulking live center.