Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
The previous owners replaced the deck two years ago, but the contractor installed more than half the planks with the grain cupped upward. The job was so bad the contractor replaced the most egregiously warped planks (over by the door and out of sight on the right) under warranty, but left all the other mis-oriented planks in place, presumably because they weren’t that bad yet.
The bare wood must age for a while before staining, so the shelf of painting supplies held a year-old gallon can as a reminder, with about two inches of stain / preservative in the bottom. I applied it to the “new” planks with pleasing results that absolutely do not match the rest of the weathered wood. With nothing to lose and plenty to gain, I applied the rest of the potion to the worst of the upside-down planks, producing the egregiously bad result you see above.
Given how the stain weathered to oblivion over the course of the last year, I expect all those planks will become roughly the same shade of ugly by next summer, when I might possibly be motivated to slather another gallon over the deck.
Mary recently finished a multi-year quilt project:
Dancine With The Stars quilt – detail
The overall pattern is “Dancing With The Stars” and it involves more intensive detail work than I have ever deployed on anything I’ve ever done:
Mary with quilt on ping-pong table
Washing the quilt required a generous handful of Color Catchers to prevent the bold colors from bleeding into the lighter fabrics:
Dancing With The Stars quilt – color catchers
The sheets on the left came from the wash and the ones on the right came from a separate rinse cycle. We didn’t expect the “average” color to be brown, but there it is. We were both mightily relieved when they performed as expected!
The cells claim 1200 mA·hr capacity, because it looks much more impressive than 1.2 A·hr, and deliver 900 mA·hr at 500 mA, likely higher than the scale’s actual load current.
Long years ago, the Bakelite (or some such) lid on our rarely used teapot disintegrated, whereupon I replaced it with an aluminum sheet and metal knob. Admittedly, a metal knob was not the brightest idea I ever had, but it sufficed for a few uses over the intervening decades.
Mary hosted this month’s quilting bee and, after having someone else bring a larger teapot for the occasion, suggested I Make. A. Better. Knob. After a bit of searching, this statue seemed appropriate for the season:
Skull teapot knob
It’s printed with PETG filament that should easily withstand the no-more-than-boiling-water temperatures found atop a teapot.
I imported the original model into PrusaSlicer, shrank it to 50 mm tall and simplified the mesh, exported it as an OBJ file, imported it into OpenSCAD, mashed it together with a 1/4-20 threaded_nut from BOSL2, added the finger protector, and got a suitable model:
Teapot Knob – solid model bottom view
The as-printed threads were a bit snug with $slop=0, but running the screw in with a dot of silicone grease to ease the way worked fine.
I should rebuild the whole lid in PETG-CF sometime.
Being an Old Guy, I lift dumbbell weights after bike rides for load-bearing upper-body exercise, but need a few more dumbbell nuts (a.k.a. “collars”) to simplify adjusting the weights for each set. Such things are commercially available, but the reviews suggest abysmally bad thread QC and a high return rate.
Given that I treat my toys carefully, this should suffice:
Dumbbell Nut – finished
Start with a scan of a steel nut in GIMP:
Dumbbell Nut – scan
Blow out the contrast, trace it, smooth out some irregularities, get a mask:
Dumbbell Nut – mask
Select by color, convert the selection to a path, save as SVG, import into OpenSCAD, add a nut with threads from the incomparably useful BOSL2 library, extrude a few features, and this pops out:
Dumbbell Nut – solid model
Run it through PrusaSlicer, print on the MK4, and iterate a few times to get everything right:
Dumbbell Nut – test pieces
I naively thought the threads were something standard like Acme, but they’re full-frontal custom trapezoidal. I knew the first pass would be wrong, so the small hex nut on the left started the whole process. Upper left is a revised Acme thread with all the other features, lower middle is the custom trapezoidal thread, and the nut on the upper right worked. Make three more, just like the first one, enjoying the magic of 3D printing.
Draw the bumper washer in LightBurn based on the dimensions in the OpenSCAD code, cut a set from stamp-pad rubber & adhesive sheet, then assemble:
Dumbbell Nut – assembly
As the saying goes, we got nuts:
Dumbbell Nut – installed
The gray PETG-CF looks black against a white background and gray against black iron.
With a set of precisely fitting nuts in hand, I discovered one of the four bars in my weight sets is slightly larger than the others, so the code now produces an embiggened root diameter and I have two spares.
The garden hose leading from the standpipe / hose bibs outside Mary’s garden to her drip irrigation plumbing has an octagonal fitting requiring more torque than her hand can easily produce. I offered to make a larger grip for the fitting, which amounts to a disk with a grippy rim sized to her hand and an interior opening suitable for gluing to the fitting.
A couple of laser-cut MDF sizing prototypes accompanied me to the garden:
Hose Fitting Grip – MDF prototype
The springy fingers around the fitting soak up the inevitable distortions found in a battered hose and will eventually be filled with adhesive to lock the grip in place.
MDF being obviously the wrong material for a permanent installation, the final grip will be 3D printed, with the LightBurn layout modified to produce the internal structure:
Hose Fitting Grip – LightBurn layers
From left to right:
The stacked pieces in order of printing
Main grip with springy fingers
Spacer keeping the fingers away from the narrower opening
Support layer
Narrow opening to align the grip with the end of the fitting
Exporting the SVG images and making a bank shot off Inkscape to create layer names:
Hose Fitting Grip – Inkscape layers
The ascending layer name + numbers allow a simple OpenSCAD program to extract the SVG shapes by name, extrude them to the proper thickness, put them at the proper height, then combine the result:
The hideous mess generating the Level vector happens because OpenSCAD does not have mutable variables and I hate retyping numbers. One can use a recursive function to add the values, but copypasta makes more sense in this case.
Which produces this solid model, with garish colors for pedagogic purposes:
Hose Fitting Grip – top – solid model
The thin yellow band will be one thread thick to provide support for the green layer with a smaller ID than the springs below it. The gray layer below the yellow is the air gap above the springs.
Peering inside the bottom shows the (gray) layer providing clearance between the springs and the (yellow) support layer:
Hose Fitting Grip – bottom interior – solid model
Exporting the model as a 3mf file, importing it into PrusaSlicer, and slicing it with suitable parameters (Extrusion Multipler = 0.8) does what you’d expect. This top view shows the internal structure just below the support bridge across the middle:
Hose Fitting Grip – spring detail – PrusaSlicer
Printing it in gray PETG-CF was uneventful, with the bridging layer coming out surprisingly well:
Hose Fitting Grip – as printed
The springs definitely have an air gap in there:
Hose Fitting Grip – printed interior
And the support layer cuts out neatly with an Xacto knife:
Hose Fitting Grip – support removed
We’ve had enough rain over the last few days (something to do with a continental-scale storm) to keep me and my adhesives out of the garden, but it hasn’t needed any watering, either.
As expected, the adhesive foam strips I used on the bathtub soap tray didn’t survive continued exposure to hot soapy water, so Version 2 includes hooks securing it to the ceramic soap tray and a few other tweaks:
Bathtub Soap Tray – V2 – LightBurn layout
The view from the top:
Soap Tray V2 – top
The hooks are more visible from the bottom, as is the 10 AWG copper wire preventing the whole affair from rotating around the ceramic handle from the weight of the soap bar:
Soap Tray V2 – bottom
Ignore the usual crud you’ll find on your ceramic soap tray, too.