Home Ec – Page 18 – The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Prusa MK4 + MMU3 vs. Steamopus

So as not to bury the lede:

Steamopus - test pieces — Steamopus – test pieces

The model is the Steampunk Octopus (in retrospect, the lower-vertex NixFix version should print better with its under-engine braces). The tests were to see how well its articulated tentacles printed and whether I understood how PrusaSlicer’s Multimaterial Painting worked. The answers: “Perfectly” and “Undo is my copilot”.

They’re both in PETG, with the orange eyes & features painted onto the STL model using the Smart Fill tool type to select surface facets joined within a given angle. Getting that right requires some fiddling, because you (well, I) can inadvertently select & flood a nearby area.

With Halloween fast approaching, they should be useful:

Steamopus - black at door — Steamopus – black at door

Readers of long memory will recognize the doorbell button.

The albino Steamopus looks downright weird:

Steamopus - white at door — Steamopus – white at door

Only the delivery folks have seen them so far …

2024-09-12

Double-faced DVD Coasters

Given an essentially unlimited supply of scrap CDs / DVDs (rendered unreadable by scarring the label side with a Guilloche pattern) and the failure of foam backing, it seemed reasonable to try sticking two of them together:

Double-faced DVD coaster - components — Double-faced DVD coaster – components

The fixture in the lower left is just an MDF square with a 15 mm post of more MDF glued in the middle to align the pieces. The white disk is the adhesive sheet, cut to 119 mm OD to leave half a millimeter clear around the outer edge, thus avoiding embarrassing stickiness.

Peel one side of the adhesive sheet and drop it over the post sticky side up:

Double-faced DVD coaster - adhesive sheet ready — Double-faced DVD coaster – adhesive sheet ready

Drop one of the DVDs over it, label side down:

Double-faced DVD coaster - first disc on adhesive — Double-faced DVD coaster – first disc on adhesive

Lift it off, peel the other side of the adhesive sheet, put it over the post sticky side up, and drop the other DVD on top:

Double-faced DVD coaster - finished — Double-faced DVD coaster – finished

The data side of the discs has a 0.3 mm raised rim just inside the track zone, so they don’t sit exactly flat on the table and expect a slightly concave lower surface on the mug / glass / cup. Neither of those seem like dealbreakers thus far, although I’m sure somebody will object.

A ring or two of general-purpose glue, along the lines of E6000 urethane, would be significantly less fussy than cutting adhesive sheets.

2024-09-10

Sting-Kill: Everyday Carry Tube

One of Mary’s gardening cronies suggested Sting-Kill might reduce her dramatic swelling [^1] after a bee / wasp / insect sting. Because it must be applied immediately after the sting, the swab must be on hand in the garden or on a bike ride, but the glass vial inside seem entirely too fragile to survive amid the usual clutter of a purse / pocketbook / belt pack / bike pack.

Well, I can fix that:

Pill tube - PETG default — Pill tube – PETG default

It’s a KeyChain Pill Tube from Printables, enlarged 20% in the XY plane to fit the Sting-Kill swab, with the white applicator end fitting neatly into the domed screw-on lid for a bit of cushioning.

The solid model looks about like you’d expect:

Pill Tube - slicer preview — Pill Tube – slicer preview

Despite that preview, I printed it with a brim. PETG sticks tenaciously to the Textured PEI steel sheet and a brim wasn’t really needed; just pop the parts off the platform when cool.

Somewhat to my astonishment, the threads screwed together easily, smoothed out after a few on-and-off cycles, and it’s ready for a moment we both hope will never occur.

[^1] Mary did tote an EpiPen back in the day, but a few near misses indicated she’s no longer quite as sensitized. She does swell up something powerful and we’re hoping immediately applying a Sting-Kill will help knock it down.

2024-09-02

Vole Traps: Rebaited

Although the drilled sunflower seeds worked reasonably well, various critters gnawed through the threads and escaped unharmed with the seeds. We tried gluing seeds to the trigger with good old Elmer’s Non-Toxic School Glue, only to find garden ants absolutely love the stuff.

Well, if voles like seeds, they’ll surely like nuts:

Rat traps - walnut halves — Rat traps – walnut halves

Those are rat traps (much bigger than mouse traps) with walnut halves secured to the top and bottom of the trigger with hot melt glue.

Yes, the plywood plates under the traps hold them together. There’s no reason to put fancy new traps outdoors where they succumb to weather in short order; these are veterans from previous episodes.

Having taken out two voles with sunflower seeds over the course of a week, the walnuts accounted for two more voles in three days. Mary thinks a neighbor vole needs a day to notice its buddy has gone missing, so the average pace may be a vole every other day.

Bonus: Gnawing on the nuts or trying to pull them away triggers the trap, so those walnuts are still out there.

The community gardens have enough voles to attract Red Tailed Hawks, which have started perching on fence posts and stooping on voles foolish enough to run along the paths or into grassy areas. Some gardeners seem disconcerted by the presence of such large birds in close proximity, but Mary assures them they’re helpers.

2024-08-30

Cutting Board Shim

The kitchen counter has only two useful places for the cutting board and the spot Mary favors puts a distinct swale under one corner. A bit of measuring and solid modeling produced a simple shim to make the answer come out right:

The basic shape is union() of a trio of hull() operations forming the three sides, with the text label as a separate object to verify I understood how to build a multi-material object.

Export it as a 3mf file, open it in PrusaSlicer, slice, print:

Cutting Board shim - label — Cutting Board shim – label

Putting the label on the bottom surface takes advantage of the nubbly finish on the Textured Steel Sheet to make it look like it just grew in there.

The label is just barely visible from the top, despite extending only 1/4 of the way through the 1.6 mm bottom slab:

Cutting Board shim - top — Cutting Board shim – top

So white PETG needs more than 1.2 mm of thickness to hid a black feature. Today I Learned, etc.

Multi-material printing produces a Wipe Tower to hold all the extruded junk during color changes:

Cutting Board shim - wipe tower — Cutting Board shim – wipe tower

The curl under the nozzle comes from the final ramming used to shape the end of the filament into a point for reliable material / color changing.

Although a shim is something of a nuisance, it works perfectly:

Cutting Board shim - in use — Cutting Board shim – in use

Much easier than installing an L-shaped Corian slab with a sink cutout!

The faded engraving dates back to the early days of the laser …

The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

	// Cutting Board alignment shim
	// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU – 2024-08-20

	//—–
	// Dimensions

	ShimThick = 1.6; // thickness of shim under board

	/* [Hidden] */

	ShimOA = [25.0,25.0,15.0]; // overall size of shim

	WallThick = 4.0;

	ShimRadius = WallThick/2;

	LabelThick = ShimThick/4;

	NumSides = 3*4;

	//—–
	// Build it

	union() {
	hull()
	for (i=[0,1])
	translate([i*(ShimOA.x – ShimRadius),0,0])
	cylinder(r=ShimRadius,h=ShimOA.z,$fn=NumSides);
	hull()
	for (j=[0,1])
	translate([0,j*(ShimOA.y – ShimRadius),0])
	cylinder(r=ShimRadius,h=ShimOA.z,$fn=NumSides);

	hull() {
	for (i=[0,1])
	translate([i*(ShimOA.x – ShimRadius),0,0])
	cylinder(r=ShimRadius,h=ShimThick,$fn=NumSides);
	translate([0,1*(ShimOA.y – ShimRadius),0])
	cylinder(r=ShimRadius,h=ShimThick,$fn=NumSides);
	}

	}

	color("Black")
	translate([ShimOA.x/3,ShimOA.y/3,LabelThick])
	rotate([180,0,90 + 45])
	linear_extrude(height=LabelThick,convexity=20)
	text(text=str(ShimThick),size=6,spacing=1.00,
	font="Arial:style:Bold",halign="center",valign="center");

view raw Cutting Board shim.scad hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2024-08-27

Under-cabinet LED Light Brick Mounts

Descending directly from the holders for the MPCNC power brick, slightly smaller brackets for the power bricks attached to the under-cabinet LED strip light in the kitchen:

Kitchen Under-cabinet light power brick mounts - slicer view — Kitchen Under-cabinet light power brick mounts – slicer view

Made from black PETG (because they’re in the kitchen) they fit fine:

Under-cabinet light - brick B — Under-cabinet light – brick B

Although the elegance depends on which way the brick points:

Under-cabinet light - brick A — Under-cabinet light – brick A

They have the distinction of being the first “real” objects from the Prusa MK4. All my hard-won knowledge of forcing solid models into reality through a 3D printer is obsolete: the default slicer settings on a new printer work perfectly, with no fiddling required.

The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

	// Power Supply Brick brackets
	// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU 2024-08-19

	Layout = "Show"; // [Show,Build]

	//– Extrusion parameters

	/* [Hidden] */

	ThreadThick = 0.20;
	ThreadWidth = 0.45;

	HoleWindage = 0.3; // enlarge hole dia by this amount

	function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);

	Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes look good and joints intersect properly

	//– Useful sizes

	ID = 0;
	OD = 1;
	LENGTH = 2;

	//– Bracket Dimensions

	Brick = [115.0,51.0,32.0]; // overall size, add details in module

	Socket = [20.0,10.0]; // binocular power socket
	Cable = [5.0,12.0]; // DC output cable ID=wire OD=strain relief

	//Socket = [30.0,24.0]; // IEC power socket
	//Cable = [6.0,15.0]; // DC output cable ID=wire OD=strain relief

	WallThick = 3.0; // default wall thickness
	BaseThick = 4.0;

	Screw = [5.1,10.0,3.0]; // screw size, more-or-less 10-32, OD & LENGTH for head

	NumSides = 3*4;

	//———————-
	// Useful routines

	module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes

	Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);

	FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);

	cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
	h=Height,
	$fn=Sides);
	}

	//———————-
	// Models

	module BrickMount(End="Both") {

	difference() {
	union() {
	hull() // main block
	for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1], k=[0,1])
	translate([i*(Brick.x/2 + WallThick – WallThick),
	j*(Brick.y/2 + WallThick – WallThick),
	k*(Brick.z + WallThick – WallThick)])
	sphere(r=WallThick,$fn=NumSides);
	hull() // screw flanges
	for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
	translate([i*(Brick.x/2 + WallThick – BaseThick),
	j(Brick.y/2 + WallThick + 2Screw[OD] – BaseThick),
	0])
	sphere(r=BaseThick,$fn=NumSides);
	}
	for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1]) // remove screw holes
	translate([i*(Brick.x/2 + WallThick – Screw[OD]),
	j*(Brick.y/2 + WallThick + Screw[OD]),
	-Protrusion])
	rotate(180/6)
	PolyCyl(Screw[ID],2*WallThick,6);

	translate([0,0,Brick.z/2]) // remove center part to leave ends
	cube([(Brick.x + 2WallThick – 4Screw[OD]),2Brick.y,2Brick.z],center=true);

	if (End == "Socket")
	translate([Brick.x/2,0,Brick.z/2]) // remove cable end to leave socket
	cube([(Brick.x + 2WallThick – 4Screw[OD]),2Brick.y,2Brick.z],center=true);

	if (End == "Cable")
	translate([-Brick.x/2,0,Brick.z/2]) // remove socket end to leave cable
	cube([(Brick.x + 2WallThick – 4Screw[OD]),2Brick.y,2Brick.z],center=true);

	translate([0,0,Brick.z/2 – Protrusion/2]) // remove power supply brick from interior
	cube(Brick + [0,0,Protrusion],center=true);

	translate([0,0,-Brick.z]) // remove below XY plane
	cube(2*Brick,center=true);

	translate([0,0,Brick.z/2]) // remove AC socket
	rotate([0,-90,0])
	rotate(90)
	linear_extrude(height=Brick.x,convexity=2)
	square(Socket,center=true);

	translate([0,0,Brick.z/2]) // remove DC cable
	rotate([0,90,0])
	rotate(180/8)
	PolyCyl(Cable[OD],Brick.x,8);

	translate([Brick.x/2,0,Brick.z/4 – Protrusion/2]) // … and wire slot
	cube([Brick.x,Cable[ID],Brick.z/2 + Protrusion],center=true);
	}

	}

	//———————-
	// Build it

	if (Layout == "Show")
	BrickMount("Both");

	if (Layout == "Build") {
	translate([5,0,Brick.x/2 + WallThick])
	rotate([0,90,0])
	BrickMount("Cable");
	translate([-5,0,Brick.x/2 + WallThick])
	rotate([0,-90,0])
	BrickMount("Socket");
	}

view raw Power Supply Brick Mount.scad hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2024-08-26

Water Shutoff Valves: Autopsy

After a bit more than half a century, the rubber washer in the cold water shutoff valve for the kitchen sink had fossilized:

Sink shutoff - cold washer — Sink shutoff – cold washer

The hot water washer was in much worse condition:

Sink shutoff - hot washer — Sink shutoff – hot washer

The shutoff valve for the hose bib in the front of the house, mounted knob-downward, has been dripping quietly for many many years before I replaced it:

Hose valve shutoff - knob corrosion — Hose valve shutoff – knob corrosion

I’d turned the valve off to no avail, so this was no surprise:

Hose valve shutoff - washer — Hose valve shutoff – washer

While it is theoretically possible to replace those washers, even the professionals know better than to disturb a sleeping valve:

The tandem valve was likely installed half a decade ago, along with the dishwasher it services. Perhaps the washer inside remains soft.

2024-08-23