The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Home Ec

Things around the home & hearth

  • Sears Microwave: Laying-On of Hands Repair

    Sears Microwave: Laying-On of Hands Repair

    Although essentially all kitchens feature a microwave over the stove, essentially all women have difficulty reaching it. As a result, our kitchen has two microwaves: the built-in Samsung over the stove and our trusty Sears Kenmore on the counter.

    We’ve had it for a while:

    Sears Microwave - data plate
    Sears Microwave – data plate

    Apart from the turntable rollers, it’s been utterly reliable for the last two decades, until the Start button stopped working:

    Sears Microwave - control panel
    Sears Microwave – control panel

    The membrane switch panel seems to be in good shape, with no cracks in the plastic surface. Only the Start button failed, which suggested the switch contact pad had failed and ruled out broken matrix traces on the flexible circuitry.

    Back in the day, they kept casual tinkerers out of the dangerous interior:

    Sears Microwave - Torx security screw
    Sears Microwave – Torx security screw

    That would not be me:

    Sears Microwave - security bit set
    Sears Microwave – security bit set

    Over the course of two decades, an occasional food explosion produces a surprising amount of debris:

    Sears Microwave - exhaust vent spatter
    Sears Microwave – exhaust vent spatter

    Go ahead, I dare you, show us your microwave exhaust vent.

    The control panel circuit board & wiring looks like this:

    Sears Microwave - control board - in place
    Sears Microwave – control board – in place

    Unplugging all the connectors proceeds as you’d expect, whereupon a single screw (out of sight to the top) releases the control assembly and pulling the whole thing upward gets it out of the cabinet:

    Sears Microwave - control board
    Sears Microwave – control board

    The capacitors show no signs of The Plague, but those resistors near the optoisolator (?) in the middle have a suspicious thermal plume.

    The ribbon cable from the control surface goes into a connector with the usual locking collar:

    Sears Microwave - control panel cable connector
    Sears Microwave – control panel cable connector

    The cable also has cutouts latching into tabs molded into the collar:

    Sears Microwave - control panel ribbon cable - locking tabs
    Sears Microwave – control panel ribbon cable – locking tabs

    Removing two screws at the transformer releases the PCB:

    Sears Microwave - control panel interior
    Sears Microwave – control panel interior

    Which promptly slammed the whole repair mission to a dead stop: with the entire membrane switch assembly glued to the front of the plastic shell, there is no way to get to the Start switch. Trying to peel the membrane off will most certainly destroy it.

    Because all the other functions still worked, including the Add Minute button, we figured we can eke out a few more years before something else fails or the lack of one button gets intolerably annoying.

    I reassembled everything in reverse order, plugged it in, and, while setting the clock, discovered the Start button once again worked perfectly.

    It’s a classic laying-on of hands repair: take something apart, replace nothing, reassemble, and it works!

    If the Start button is not part of the overall switch matrix, with a separate conductor through the ribbon cable, un- and re- plugging would be enough to restore a flaky contact. We’ll never know the rest of the story, although with this post as a reminder, maybe I can remember to tear the matrix apart when we scrap it out.

    Somebody give me an Amen!

  • Sonicare E5000 Toothbrush + Norelco T770 Beard Trimmer: Final Final Batteries

    Sonicare E5000 Toothbrush + Norelco T770 Beard Trimmer: Final Final Batteries

    Although replacing the Sonicare E5000 battery six years ago was supposed to be the last time I’d do that, the poor thing died leaving most of a year’s supply of brush heads in the drawer.

    Half a quartet of NiMH AA cells should keep it happy while using up that stash:

    Sonicare Toothbrush - NiMH AA cells installed
    Sonicare Toothbrush – NiMH AA cells installed

    The AA cells sit at a jaunty angle due to re-re-using the original contact tabs soldered into the PCB.

    I’m getting pretty good at taping the case closed:

    Sonicare Toothbrush - Kapton tape
    Sonicare Toothbrush – Kapton tape

    Although I have no pictures to prove it, the other half of the AA cell quartet restored youthful vigor to the Norelco T770 beard trimmer. Having interior pictures made finding and popping its case latches so much easier.

    If only I could change my batteries that easily …

  • Roof Rake

    Roof Rake

    If they think you’re crude, go technical; if they think you’re technical, go crude. I’m a very technical boy. So I decided to get as crude as possible. These days, thought, you have to be pretty technical before you can even aspire to crudeness.

    William Gibson — Johnny Mnemonic

    Now that the trees have shed most of their leaves / needles, it’s time to get the accumulation off the roof edges. Fortunately, the upstairs windows overlook the biggest piles and, after I considered and rapidly rejected the notion of using the wind stick, Mary convinced me a roof rake would suffice by deploying a too-short broom.

    After considering and rejecting several decreasingly elaborate variations of 3D-printed pole-to-pusher-plate adapter nonsense that almost involved our pole saw, this happened:

    Roof Rake - in use
    Roof Rake – in use

    The wood pole comes from a left-behind assortment atop the garage’s open ceiling joists and the pusher plate comes from the cardboard box treasure trove.

    A laser cutter makes close-fitting rings and hot-melt glue sticks those plates together with gleeful abandon:

    Roof Rake - detail
    Roof Rake – detail

    The blue-and-white cardboard plate consists of two box flaps glued together, the glued-up stack of half a dozen rings transfers the torque from the plate to the pole, and the whole affair took the better part of fifteen minutes from idea to cool-enough glue.

    It’s back on the garage joists for next year, unless we decide that pole has a higher purpose in life. Worst case, it loses two inches of length.

    Bonus: Chore accomplished before the predicted weekend snowfall!

  • Sears Sewing Table: Caster Pads

    Sears Sewing Table: Caster Pads

    Mary’s much-improved / -repaired Sears Sewing Table wanted to move around on the wood floor in the Sewing Room, so I captured its casters in little pads:

    Sears Sewing Table caster pad - installed
    Sears Sewing Table caster pad – installed

    A layer of 1 mm cork with PSA adhesive provides griptivity against the floor, a solid layer of 3 mm plywood spreads the wheel force over the cork, and a top ring of 3 mm plywood captures the wheel.

    Which looked like this during gluing:

    Sears Sewing Table caster pad - gluing fixtures
    Sears Sewing Table caster pad – gluing fixtures

    The scrap on the left served to align cork & plywood; it came from the plywood contributing the shapes. The ring around the cork is a glued-up pair of plywood rings (4 mm wide, outset from the perimeter of the pads) serving to align the two plywood layers.

    Verily: time spent making a fixture is never wasted!

    And having a laser cutter makes fixtures trivially easy, at least for simple fixtures like those.

  • Credit Card Fraud Puzzle

    Credit Card Fraud Puzzle

    OK, this was different.

    A flurry of alerts informed us about charges on an “inactive” credit card account: someone started using my card from a joint account with Mary. Our two cards have different numbers and security codes, although they produce charges to the same account.

    The account was inactive for a simple reason: I’d never taken my card out of its mailer and never bought anything with that number. It was activated when Mary turned on her card, although it still carries that sticker:

    Invalidated credit card
    Invalidated credit card

    The customer service agent discovered Amazon had already issued a refund, so apparently the transaction tripped their fraud monitors.

    He canceled that number and I’ll get another card, which I intend to continue not using, in a few days.

    What I do not understand: how did my card number and security code end up in play, given that I never used it? AFAICT, the only two places that number appears are on the card and in the issuer’s database.

    Do you know how such things work?

    A casual web search for the (now invalidated) credit card number produces no hits. The simplest explanation: search engines don’t return results for sixteen digits resembling a credit card number.

    Verily: just because you’re not paranoid doesn’t mean they’re not out to get ya!

  • Laser Cutter: Fourth Corner Fix Summary

    Laser Cutter: Fourth Corner Fix Summary

    A discussion on the LightBurn forum about a large-format machine with a misaligned beam prompted me to think through the whole “Fourth Corner” problem and come up with this summary based on my beam realignment adventure:

    Here’s what I think is going on, referring to the 4×8 foot (!) machine in that discussion and lightly edited to improve readability & fix minor errors …

    Mirror 1 alignment gets the beam parallel to the Y axis, averaged over the gantry travel between front and rear. The path length variation on your machine is four feet.

    Mirror 2 alignment gets the beam parallel to the X axis, averaged over the laser head travel from left to right. The path length variation on your machine is eight feet.

    When the laser head is in the left rear corner, the total path length is maybe a foot or two. When it’s in the front right corner, the total path length is upwards of twelve feet.

    The “Fourth Corner” problem comes from a slight angular misalignment of Mirror 1, because you (and I and everybody) must set it with a maximum path length around four feet (Mirror 1 to Mirror 2 with the gantry at the front end of the machine). But with the laser head in the right front corner, the path length (Mirror 1 to Mirror 3) is three times longer, so the error due to a slightly mis-set angle at Mirror 1 is correspondingly larger.

    A tiny tweak to Mirror 1 changes the spot position at Mirror 2 by very little, but moves the spot at Mirror 3 by much more due to the longer path length.

    Tweaking Mirror 1 cannot compensate for a warped machine frame, but it will get the beam alignment as good as it can be made.

    The next point of contention was my “middle of the mirror” suggestion. AFAICT, the spot burned into the target at each mirror marks only the useful part of the beam with stray energy in a halo around it. Centering the spot keeps that stray energy away from the mirror mounts, so it doesn’t cause unnecessary heating. This will be particularly important with a high-power laser.

    Angular adjustment of each mirror puts the beam parallel to the axes, but cannot also center it on the mirrors. After it’s aligned, the path from the laser tube through the nozzle depends on the position of the tube relative to the nozzle: moving the tube up/down and front/back moves the beam position on the mirrors and through the nozzle, but (in an ideal world) doesn’t change the angular alignment.

    So after aligning the beam parallel to the axes, you must move the laser tube, the mirrors (up/down left/right front/back), and maybe the laser head to center the beam in the mirrors and also in the nozzle. Because we don’t live in an ideal world, moving any of those pieces wrecks their angular alignment, so it’s an iterative process.

    The goal is to reach this point:

    Beam Alignment - Mirror 3 detail - 2023-09-16
    Beam Alignment – Mirror 3 detail – 2023-09-16

    Those are five separate pulses, one each at the four corners and center of the platform.

    The beam then goes pretty much through the center of the laser head and lens:

    Beam Alignment - Focus detail - 2023-09-16
    Beam Alignment – Focus detail – 2023-09-16

    Works for me, anyhow.

  • Layered Paper: Mariner’s Compass in Colors

    Layered Paper: Mariner’s Compass in Colors

    Having recently shotgunned Amazon’s selection of colored art paper, this becomes possible:

    Mariners Compass - inset browns
    Mariners Compass – inset browns

    It’s the same geometry as the plain white layered version, with somewhat more attention to detail, and consists of a dozen layers glued and stacked on an assembly fixture.

    The quilt-block version uses simple layering:

    Layered Paper - Mariners Compass - Beyer 133
    Layered Paper – Mariners Compass – Beyer 133

    No commercial potential, but I like the effect.