Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Recent rains and snowmelt raised the level of the Mighty Wappingers Creek a bit:
Red Oaks Mill Dam – 2014-04-06
It’s not flood stage, but there’s plenty of water flowing over the dam:
Red Oaks Mill Dam – crumbled top – 2014-04-06
The crumbled rubble fill hardly disturbs the flow until the bottom falls out at the downstream edge:
Red Oaks Mill Dam – crumbled top detail – 2014-04-06
I once spotted a job offer for a live-in dam tender over in Wallkill, but it turned out to be Internet debris; they automated the process and no longer need a human. I want to live in the powerhouse next to a dam, but it’s not to be…
Three envelopes arrived in the same mailing, all bearing the same return address across the back:
PublishersPayment – Three Return Addresses
By now, I know what’s inside the envelopes and simply toss them in the recycling, but getting three at once seemed worth investigating. Inside, they’re not quite identical:
PublishersPayment – Three Renewal Scams
So SBS, PDS, and PBC are all snuggly in White City, Oregon, with LBS somewhere just offstage…
Apparently enough people miss the warning on the back to justify the expense of the junk mailings.
It’s nice work for someone with absolutely no ethics whatsoever. At least they’re not phoning us, so maybe they’re not complete asshats…
Having experimentally determined that tempering molten chocolate is not optional (i.e., chocolate doesn’t behave just like butter), I tried a cheat discussed in the comments following that helpful post. Basically, because all retail chocolate is already tempered, you can get good results by carefully heating it to the proper temperature, then pouring it into the molds… the proper crystals remain in their places, the cooled chocolate has good snap, and you avoid a huge amount of fuffing and fawing.
Not having a sous vide setup, but also not working with giant chocolate blocks, I simply filled a big ceramic pot with tepid water:
Chocolate tempering – water bath
Note that the gas burner under the pot is off: the pot’s on the stove because it fit nicely next to the countertop.
A small metal pot sits out of sight on the burner to the left. Goosed with low heat as needed, that pot provided warm water: I moved a cup of tepid water to the metal pot, moved a cup of slightly warmer water back to the ceramic pot, and repeated as needed. As it turned out, the big pot held its heat quite well and the whole process went swimmingly, with the water temperature at 90±1°F, tops.
The Official Tempering Numbers seem to be:
Dark chocolate: 88 – 90°F
Milk chocolate: 86 – 88°F
I suppose I should have used slightly cooler water for the milk chocolate shown in the picture, but it came out Just Fine.
I used Nestlé Toll House Chocolate Morsels for lack of anything better. As nearly as I can tell, cheaper chocolate isn’t really chocolate and fancier chocolate seemed like a Bad Idea until I’ve made a few more mistakes. One bag each of Milk, Dark, and Semi-Sweet sufficed for my simple needs.
The ziplock baggie holds 50 g of chocolate chunks / morsels / whatever, which turned out to be exactly the right amount to fill 16 Tux mold cavities with a 5 mm maximum depth, plus a little bit for the inevitable mess. Sometimes, I just get lucky…
Put chocolate chunks into bag, squeeze out as much air as possible, seal, drop in the pot. Wait a few minutes until it’s not quite completely melted, remove, dry the bag, squeeze out the rest of the air, then knead until it’s all mooshy.
Then cut off one corner of the bag, squeeze chocolate into mold cavities, and flatten the back. I started by easing it into the beak and eyes, filling the tummy, then piling enough to cover everything else. This worked surprisingly well, although the ziplock can unlock if you squeeze hard enough; cut the corner a little bit larger than seems necessary.
Memo to Self: tape the ziplock part of the bag closed to prevent bloopers.
I used a plastic scraper (well, an unused credit card, if you must know) to moosh the chocolate into the cavity and level the back. There doesn’t seem to be much to choose between doing one cavity at a time or a whole row in one pass, although filling more than one row lets the first lump get too cool.
I worried about the chocolate in the bag getting too cool, until I realized that my fingers are hotter than the tempering bath, so, if anything, it would get too hot.
The result came out surprisingly tidy:
Tux Gradient 4×4 – milk chocolate in mold
The silicone block sits atop an aluminum pizza pan, which I transported to the basement for cooling while filling and melting the next bag; the chocolate popped right out of the cavities at about 70°F.
The result looked pretty good to me:
Tux Gradient 4×4 – milk chocolate detail
The detail come out fine and if anybody kvetches about a few bubbles, they don’t get any more.
From left to right, Tux in milk, semi-sweet, and dark chocolate:
Tux Gradient – milk semi-sweet dark lineup
The semi-sweet Tuxes began to bloom almost instantly. I had heated the silicone mold to about 90°F in an attempt to keep the chocolate melty enough to fill 16 cavities before leveling them all at once, but I think it was too hot on the bottom; the four center pieces bloomed right out of the mold and a few others bloomed shortly thereafter.
The bloom highlights the mold detail, though:
Tux Gradient – semi-sweet chocolate bloom
I quickly destroyed all the evidence…
Each Tux weighs 2.5 to 3 g. You do the calorie count yourself, OK?
Although directly printing the 2×2 molds worked reasonably well, that does not scale to larger arrays, because OpenSCAD doesn’t handle the profusion of vertices with any grace. Duplicating the STL file created from the height map image, however, isn’t a problem:
Tux-Gradient – Slic3r layout
I actually did it in two passes: 4 molds to be sure they’d come out right, then another dozen. Figure a bit under two hours for the lot of them, no matter how you, ah, slice it.
A grid drawn directly on 1/16 inch = 1.5 mm acrylic sheet guided the layout:
Tux Gradient 4×4 – mold as-cast
I anointed the back of each mold positive with PVC pipe cement, the version with tetrahydrofuran to attack the PLA and acetone/MEK to attack the acrylic, lined it up, and pressed it in place. The positives have recesses for alignment pins, but even I think that’s overkill in this application.
Memo to Self: Flip the acrylic over before gluing, so the guide lines wipe neatly off the bottom.
Tape a cardboard frame around the acrylic, mix & pour the silicone, put it on the floor to ensure it’s level (unlike our kitchen table), wait overnight for the cure, then peel positive and negative apart:
Tux Gradient 4×4 – mold separated
As before, the top surface of the positives isn’t watertight, so the silicone flowed through into the molds. This isn’t a simple extruder calibration issue, because the thinwall boxes are spot on, all the exterior dimensions are accurate, and everything else seems OK. What’s not OK is that threads on the top and (now that I look at it) bottom surfaces aren’t properly joining.
A closeup of the positive shows silicone between the threads and under the surface:
Tux Gradient 4×4 – postive detail
But the negative silicone looks just fine, in the usual hand-knitted way of all 3D printed parts:
Tux Gradient 4×4 – negative detail
Definitely fewer bubbles than before, although the flange between the flippers (wings? whatever) and the body isn’t as clean as it could be. Doing better may require pulling a vacuum on the silicone, which would mean the positives really must be air-tight solids.
Anyhow, the acrylic base produced a wonderfully flat surface that should make it a lot easier to run a scraper across the chocolate to remove the excess. Not that excess chocolate is ever a problem, but it’s the principle of the thing.
A rough estimate of the volume and measurement thereof:
Assume 1 cm slab thickness for mold cavities 4 or 5 mm deep
Measure size of base plate in cm (given by OpenSCAD script in mm)
Compute slab volume in cubic cm = millliliters (ignoring mold cavity volumes)
Divide by 2 to find volume of each silicone component
Mark that volume on the side of two sacrificial containers
Pour silicone components into those containers
Pour one into the other, mix twice as long as you think you should
Scrupulously avoid cross-contaminating the original containers!
Fast-forward overnight, cut the tape, and peel the silicone negative off the positive:
Tux 2×2 mold – opened
The top surface of the 3D printed positive wasn’t completely water silicone-tight, so the silicone leaked through the top and filled part of the interior. No harm done, but I wasn’t expecting that. The interior of the silicone negative came out pretty well, although you can see some small bubble cavities that may be due to air leaking out through the top of the positive:
Tux 2×2 mold – negative detail
The hand-knitted texture of the 3D printing process comes through very well, which is a Good Thing in this application. If you don’t like that, you can devote considerable time & attention to removing all traces of the production process.
As a proof of concept, I melted and tempered four Dove Dark Chocolate Promises, then poured the chocolate into the cavities:
Tux 2×2 mold – filled
The tempering followed a fairly simple process that worked reasonably well, but the chocolate obviously wasn’t liquid when I poured it. The results looked pretty good, in a textured sort of way:
Tux chocolates – silicone mold
Flushed with success, I tweaked the mold to eliminate the raised lip around the edge, printed another positive plate, mixed up more silicone rubber, paid more attention to getting rid of the bubbles, and got this result:
Tux 2×2 mold 2 – opened
The printed surface still isn’t silicone-tight, which began to puzzle me, but the result looked pretty good.
After some fiddling around, though, I think printing the entire mold array isn’t the way to go. OpenSCAD can handle these 2×2 arrays, but a slightly tweaked Tux model (about which, more later) grossly increased the processing time and memory usage; OpenSCAD (and its CGAL geometry back end) filled all 4 GB of RAM, then blotted up 5 GB of swap space, ran for well over half an hour, and totally locked up the desktop UI for the duration.
It’s certainly infeasible to print the larger array on a sizable base plate that you’d need for a real project. I think printing multiple copies of a single model (duplicating them in the slicer, which is fast & easy), then attaching them to a plain base will work better. There’s no need to print the base plate, either, as a serrated top surface doesn’t buy anything; acrylic (or some such) sheet is cheap, flat, and readily available.
The Bash scripts and OpenSCAD programs below don’t produce exactly the same results you see above, mostly because I screwed around with them while discovering the reasons why doing it this way doesn’t make sense, but they can serve as a starting point if you must convince yourself, too.
This Bash script produces a single positive mold item from a height map image:
// Mold positive pattern from grayscale height map
// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU - March 2014 - adapted from cookie press, added alignment pins
//-----------------
// Mold files
fnMap = "Tux_map.dat"; // override with -D 'fnMap="whatever.dat"'
fnPlate = "Tux_plate.dat"; // override with -D 'fnPlate="whatever.dat"'
DotsPerMM = 3.0; // overrride with -D DotsPerMM=number
MapHeight = 4.0; // overrride with -D MapHeight=number
ImageX = 100; // overrride with -D ImageX=whatever
ImageY = 100;
UsePins = true;
MapScaleXYZ = [1/DotsPerMM,1/DotsPerMM,MapHeight/255];
PlateScaleXYZ = [1/DotsPerMM,1/DotsPerMM,1.0];
echo("Press File: ",fnMap);
echo("Plate File: ",fnPlate);
echo(str("ImageX:",ImageX," ImageY: ", ImageY));
echo(str("Map Height: ",MapHeight));
echo(str("Dots/mm: ",DotsPerMM));
echo(str("Scale Map: ",MapScaleXYZ," Plate: ",PlateScaleXYZ));
//- Extrusion parameters - must match reality!
ThreadThick = 0.25;
ThreadWidth = 2.0 * ThreadThick;
//- Buid parameters
PlateThick = IntegerMultiple(1.0,ThreadThick); // solid plate under press relief
PinOD = 1.75; // locating pin diameter
PinDepth = PlateThick; // ... depth into bottom surface = total length/2
PinOC = 20.0; // spacing within mold item
echo(str("Pin depth: ",PinDepth," spacing: ",PinOC));
//- Useful info
function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
HoleWindage = 0.2;
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes & unions work correctly
MaxConvexity = 5; // used for F5 previews in OpenSCAD GUI
ZFuzz = 0.2; // numeric chaff just above height map Z=0 plane
//-----------------
// Import plate height map, slice off a slab to define outline
module Slab(Thick=1.0) {
intersection() {
translate([0,0,Thick/2])
cube([2*ImageX,2*ImageY,Thick],center=true);
scale(PlateScaleXYZ)
difference() {
translate([0,0,-ZFuzz])
surface(fnPlate,center=true,convexity=MaxConvexity);
translate([0,0,-1])
cube([2*ImageX,2*ImageY,2],center=true);
}
}
}
//- Put peg grid on build surface
module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
Range = floor(50 / Space);
for (x=[-Range:Range])
for (y=[-Range:Range])
translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
%cube(Size,center=true);
}
//-- convert cylinder to low-count polygon
module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
h=Height,
$fn=Sides);
}
//-- Locating pin hole with glue recess
// Default length is two pin diameters on each side of the split
module LocatingPin(Dia=PinOD,Len=0.0) {
PinLen = (Len != 0.0) ? Len : (4*Dia);
translate([0,0,-ThreadThick])
PolyCyl((Dia + 2*ThreadWidth),2*ThreadThick,4);
translate([0,0,-2*ThreadThick])
PolyCyl((Dia + 1*ThreadWidth),4*ThreadThick,4);
translate([0,0,-(Len/2 + ThreadThick)])
PolyCyl(Dia,(Len + 2*ThreadThick),4);
}
//- Build it
//ShowPegGrid();
echo("Building mold");
union() {
difference() {
Slab(PlateThick + Protrusion);
if (UsePins)
for (i=[-1,1])
translate([0,i*PinOC/2,0])
rotate(180/4) LocatingPin(Len=2*PinDepth);
}
translate([0,0,PlateThick]) // cookie press height map
scale(MapScaleXYZ)
difference() {
translate([0,0,-ZFuzz])
surface(fnMap,center=true,convexity=MaxConvexity);
translate([0,0,-1])
cube([2*ImageX,2*ImageY,2],center=true);
}
}
This OpenSCAD source code slides a base plate under an array of those mold items, with options for a separate plate using alignment pins or the combined plate-with-molds shown above:
// Positive mold framework for chocolate slabs
// Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - March 2014
Layout = "FrameMolds"; // FramePins FrameMolds Pin
//- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
// Print with 2 shells and 3 solid layers
ThreadThick = 0.20;
ThreadWidth = 0.40;
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
HoleWindage = 0.2;
//----------------------
// Dimensions
FileName = "Tux_Hi_Profile-positive.stl"; // overrride with -D
Molds = [2,2]; // count of molds within framework
MoldOC = [45.0,50.0]; // on-center spacing of molds
MoldSlab = 1.0; // thickness of slab under molds
BaseThick = 3.0;
BaseSize = [(Molds[0]*MoldOC[0] + 0),(Molds[1]*MoldOC[1] + 0),BaseThick];
echo(str("Overall base: ",BaseSize));
PinOD = 1.75; // locating pin diameter
PinLength = 2.0; // ... total length
PinOC = 20.0; // spacing within mold item
//----------------------
// Useful routines
//- Put peg grid on build surface
module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
%cube(Size,center=true);
}
module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
h=Height,
$fn=Sides);
}
// Locating pin hole with glue recess
// Default length is two pin diameters on each side of the split
module LocatingPin(Dia=PinOD,Len=0.0) {
PinLen = (Len != 0.0) ? Len : (4*Dia);
translate([0,0,-ThreadThick])
PolyCyl((Dia + 2*ThreadWidth),2*ThreadThick,4);
translate([0,0,-2*ThreadThick])
PolyCyl((Dia + 1*ThreadWidth),4*ThreadThick,4);
translate([0,0,-(Len/2 + ThreadThick)])
PolyCyl(Dia,(Len + 2*ThreadThick),4);
}
module LocatingPins(Length) {
for (i=[-1,1])
translate([0,i*PinOC/2,0])
rotate(180/4)
LocatingPin(Len=Length);
}
//-- import a single mold item
module MoldItem() {
// intersection() {
import(FileName,convexity=10);
// cube([100,100,3],center=true);
// }
}
//-- Overall frame shape
module Frame() {
// translate([0,0,BaseSize[2]/2]) // platform under molds
// cube(BaseSize,center=true);
difference() {
hull()
for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
translate([i*BaseSize[0]/2,j*BaseSize[1]/2,0])
sphere(r=BaseThick);
translate([0,0,-BaseThick])
cube(2*BaseSize,center=true);
}
}
//- Build it
ShowPegGrid();
if (Layout == "Pin")
LocatingPin(Len=PinLength);
if (Layout == "Frame")
Frame();
if (Layout == "FramePins")
difference() {
Frame();
translate([-MoldOC[0]*(Molds[0] - 1)/2,-MoldOC[1]*(Molds[1] - 1)/2,0])
for (i=[0:Molds[0]-1],j=[0:Molds[1]-1])
translate([i*MoldOC[0],j*MoldOC[1],BaseSize[2]])
LocatingPins(BaseThick);
}
if (Layout == "FrameMolds") {
Frame();
translate([-MoldOC[0]*(Molds[0] - 1)/2,-MoldOC[1]*(Molds[1] - 1)/2,0])
for (i=[0:Molds[0]-1],j=[0:Molds[1]-1])
translate([i*MoldOC[0],j*MoldOC[1],BaseThick - MoldSlab + Protrusion])
MoldItem();
}
Natural PLA provides a nice, crystalline appearance:
Kenmore 158 Sewing Machine – Cool white LEDs – rear no flash
Cool white LEDs have somewhat higher lumen/watt efficiency, but the real gain came from doubling the number of LEDs:
Kenmore 158 Sewing Machine – Cool white LEDs – front flash
I overvolted the warm white LEDs to 14 V to get closer to 20 mA/segment, but the cool white ones run pretty close to 20 mA at 12 V, so I didn’t bother.
Commercial versions of this hack secure the wiring with little white clips and foam tape, so I should conjure up something like that. Mary specifically did not want the lights affixed under the arm, though, so those things weren’t even in the running.
The OpenSCAD source code widens the mount and moves the wiring conduit a little bit, to simplify the connections to both strips, but is otherwise identical to the earlier version:
// LED Strip Lighting Brackets for Kenmore Model 158 Sewing Machine
// Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - March 2014
Layout = "Build"; // Build Show Channels Strip
//- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
// Print with 2 shells and 3 solid layers
ThreadThick = 0.20;
ThreadWidth = 0.40;
HoleWindage = 0.2; // extra clearance
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
AlignPinOD = 1.70; // assembly alignment pins: filament dia
inch = 25.4;
function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
//----------------------
// Dimensions
Segment = [25.0,10.0,3.0]; // size of each LED segment
SEGLENGTH = 0;
SEGWIDTH = 1;
SEGHEIGHT = 2;
WireChannel = 3.0; // wire routing channel
StripHeight = 12.0; // sticky tape width
StripSides = 8*4;
DefaultLayout = [1,2,"Wire","NoWire"];
NUMSEGS = 0;
NUMSTRIPS = 1;
WIRELEFT = 2;
WIRERIGHT = 3;
EndCapSides = StripSides;
CapSpace = 2.0; // build spacing for endcaps
BuildSpace = 3.0; // spacing between objects on platform
//----------------------
// Useful routines
module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
h=Height,
$fn=Sides);
}
module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
%cube(Size,center=true);
}
//-- The negative space used to thread wires into the endcap
module MakeWireChannel(Layout = DefaultLayout,Which = "Left") {
EndCap = [(2*WireChannel + 1.0),Layout[NUMSTRIPS]*Segment[SEGWIDTH],StripHeight]; // radii of end cap spheroid
HalfSpace = EndCap[0] * ((Which == "Left") ? 1 : -1);
render(convexity=2)
translate([0,Segment[SEGWIDTH]/2,0])
intersection() {
union() {
cube([2*WireChannel,WireChannel,EndCap[2]],center=true);
translate([-2*EndCap[0],0,EndCap[2]/2])
rotate([0,90,0]) rotate(180/6)
PolyCyl(WireChannel,4*EndCap[0],6);
}
translate([HalfSpace,0,(EndCap[2] - Protrusion)]) {
cube(2*EndCap,center=true);
}
}
}
//-- The whole strip, minus wiring channels
module MakeStrip(Layout = DefaultLayout) {
EndCap = [(2*WireChannel + 1.0),Layout[NUMSTRIPS]*Segment[SEGWIDTH],StripHeight]; // radii of end cap spheroid
BarLength = Layout[NUMSEGS] * Segment[SEGLENGTH]; // central bar length
hull()
difference() {
for (x = [-1,1]) // endcaps as spheroids
translate([x*BarLength/2,0,0])
resize(2*EndCap) rotate([0,90,0]) sphere(1.0,$fn=EndCapSides);
translate([0,0,-EndCap[2]])
cube([2*BarLength,3*EndCap[1],2*EndCap[2]],center=true);
translate([0,-EndCap[1],0])
cube([2*BarLength,2*EndCap[1],3*EndCap[2]],center=true);
}
}
//-- Cut wiring channels out of strip
module MakeMount(Layout = DefaultLayout) {
BarLength = Layout[NUMSEGS] * Segment[SEGLENGTH];
difference() {
MakeStrip(Layout);
if (Layout[WIRELEFT] == "Wire")
translate([BarLength/2,0,0])
MakeWireChannel(Layout,"Left");
if (Layout[WIRERIGHT] == "Wire")
translate([-BarLength/2,0,0])
MakeWireChannel(Layout,"Right");
}
}
//- Build it
ShowPegGrid();
if (Layout == "Channels") {
translate([ (2*WireChannel + 1.0),0,0]) MakeWireChannel(DefaultLayout,"Left");
translate([-(2*WireChannel + 1.0),0,0]) MakeWireChannel(DefaultLayout,"Right");
}
if (Layout == "Strip") {
MakeStrip(DefaultLayout);
}
if (Layout == "Show") {
MakeMount(DefaultLayout);
}
if (Layout == "Build") {
translate([0,(3*Segment[SEGWIDTH]),0]) MakeMount([1,2,"Wire","Wire"]); // rear left side, vertical
translate([0,0,0]) MakeMount([5,2,"Wire","NoWire"]); // rear top, across arm
translate([0,-(3*Segment[SEGWIDTH]),0]) MakeMount([6,2,"NoWire","Wire"]); // front top, across arm
}