May you receive as many Things as you need and have a place to put them:

Merry Christmas to one and all: take the day off!
Spotted this at the Mini Maker Faire. My Things generally live in boxes, but there’s a time for every style…
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning
Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Things around the home & hearth
May you receive as many Things as you need and have a place to put them:

Merry Christmas to one and all: take the day off!
Spotted this at the Mini Maker Faire. My Things generally live in boxes, but there’s a time for every style…
The replacement probe has a woven metal jacket that’s allegedly more rugged than the original plastic, but I think the main difference comes from the additional strain relief at the end of the probe:

That still looks abrupt to me, so I wrapped a silicone tape snippet around the joint:

Probably not food-safe, definitely butt-ugly, but I don’t want to replace the probe again for a long time.
FWIW, although the probe description says it’s compatible with Taylor 1970N thermometers and doesn’t mention the 1478 we have, the 2.5 mm plug fits (no suprise there) and the display shows appropriate temperatures; it seems no less accurate than the original probe.
We’ve been doing a lot of roasting and bought a not-dirt-cheap Taylor 1478 digital kitchen thermometer with a long probe wire to monitor the meat temperature. As soon as I unpacked it, I knew this would eventually happen:

The cable lasted just long enough to ensure the thermometer warranty expired; it’s a deliberate design flaw if I’ve ever seen one.
The thermistor inside the probe seems to be 100 kΩ at ordinary temperatures, although I’d be completely unsurprised to find that Taylor uses a slightly nonstandard resistance. Because nonstandard, of course.
Anyhow, replacement probes (*) are readily available from the usual Amazon suppliers, feature stainless steel braid sheathing and cost about as much as a whole new thermometer (albeit those still have cheap plastic insulation). With a replacement on order, I hauled the failed probe to the shop for an autopsy and possible resurrection…
Although I hoped that hammering out the crimp would release the thermistor, it was not to be. In retrospect, pulling on the probe wire probably killed it, but I didn’t know that at the time.
A spring intended to stabilize tubing while bending worked just fine to un-bend the probe:

But, alas, the thermistor still didn’t emerge from the more-or-less straightened probe.
Some deft work with a Dremel cutoff wheel sliced enough off the stainless steel tube that I could splice the wires:

More cutoff wheel work smoothed the edges of that raw cut end, although the result wasn’t anything to show off.
The spliced and insulated probe definitely don’t win any awards, either:

I doubt that the heatshrink tubing or silicone wrap underneath it would be suitable for roasts in the kitchen, but that’s moot: the probe remained intermittent.
If the new probe is also intermittent, then I’ll suspect the crappy 2.5 mm jack in the side of the thermometer…
(*) It’s not clear that a replacement probe for a 1470N thermometer will work with a 1478 thermometer. I’m gambling that Taylor wouldn’t be so stupid annoying deliberately obtuse as to use different probe thermistors, but that’s surely a bad bet. There’s no reason to believe Taylor actually makes any of this stuff, which means different models may come from entirely different designers / factories with entirely different supply chains.
While looking for something else, I found the old Trust Multimedia Mouse and discovered its nice grippy rubber surfaces had become adhesive slime. Graduated efforts with water, rubbing alcohol, and denatured alcohol being unavailing, I finally hit it with xylene and that did the trick:

Of course, xylene also wiped away the fancy button markings and irretrievably scarred the surface, but at least I can pick the mouse up without having it stick to my hand. Not that I pick it up that often, obviously.
Several other gadgets have a similar grippy finish, so now I know what to do when it turns gummy: throw the gadgets out…
Another of Mary’s glasses snapped at the temple joint:

This one has a spring inside the joint that latches the temple on either side of that square inner corner. Obviously, there’s no way to reconnect the broken stub with the spring retracted inside the brazed temple box, so:
At least the hinge folds again, even if the spring doesn’t work:

She promises to scrap out her oldest glasses after the next eye exam…
A friend reported that three of the four heating blankets he’s bought over the last several years have failed, so he sent the lot to me for teardown and maybe repair.
Looking inside one controller showed some obviously bad solder joints:

Hitting the joints with the soldering iron improved their outlook on life, but the controller remained dead; they weren’t really bad joints, they just looked that way.
If the “lot number” labels on the controllers mean anything, they’ve tried three different triac mounts over the years:
That’s in order of ascending lot number, suggesting the triac caused some reliability problems.
I’m still trying to figure out how to probe the circuitry without killing myself. An isolation transformer comes to mind, because the blanket dissipates only 85 W.
Surely the triacs have snubbers…
This just arrived (clicky for more dots):

I’m not sure how many folks will drop 1.1 large in response to that mailing, but surely it doesn’t take very many to break even. Whew!
If I’m parsing the New York Times signup page correctly, an annual daily subscription delivered here in the hinterlands will set you back a mere $691, direct from the Official Source.