The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Electronics Workbench

Electrical & Electronic gadgets

  • LF Loop Antenna: 60 kHz Tuning

    The object of soldering all 40 wires in the 5 m hank of ribbon cable  in series is to build a 40 turn loop antenna to receive LF radio signals like WWVB at 60 kHz. The antenna, being basically a big coil of wire, will have an inductance that depends on its layout, so putting a capacitor in parallel turns it into a resonant tank circuit. Given a particular layout (and, thus, an inductance), you can choose the capacitor to make the antenna resonant at whatever frequency you need (within reason).

    With the joints soldered & reinforced with epoxy, the inductance across all 40 turns:

    • 535 µH – rolled into a compact bundle
    • 6.66 mH – vaguely circular loop on the concrete floor
    • 5.50 mH – lumpy rectangle on the concrete floor

    Back in a slightly different circular layout on the floor:

    • 6.8 mH – across all 40 turns, as above
    • 2.0 mH – across either set of 20 turns from the center tap

    Given that inductance varies as the square of the number of turns, you’d expect a factor of four between those two inductances, but that’s not how it worked out.

    Hanging the loop from a pair of screws in the floor joists to make a droopy rectangle-oid shape and driving it from a 600 Ω signal generator through a 10 kΩ resistor, it’s self-resonant at 213 kHz. Repeating that with a 470 kΩ resistor drops the resonance to 210 kHz, which isn’t different enough to notice and surely has more to do with my moving the loop while dinking with resistors.

    Adding parallel capacitance (measured with an LCR meter, just to be sure) changes the resonance thusly:

    • 9.9 nF → 20 kHz
    • 900 pF → 64 kHz
    • 400 pF → 87 kHz
    • 250 pF → 108 kHz
    • none → 213 kHz

    Because the resonant frequency varies inversely as the square root of the capacitance, halving the resonant frequency means you’ve increased the capacitance by a factor of four. Because 250 pF halves the frequency (mostly kinda sorta close enough), the loop’s stray capacitance must be about 1/3 of that: 83 pF.

    Yeah, 1/3, not 1/4: the additional capacitance adds to the stray capacitance, so it goes from 83 pF to 250 + 83 pF = 333 pF, which is four times 83 pF.

    (If that sound familiar, it’s similar to the resonant snubber calculation.)

    The self-resonant frequency of 213 kHz and the 83 pF stray capacitance determines the loop inductance:

    L = 1/((2π · 213 kHz)^2 · 83 pF) = 6.9 mH

    Pretty close to the measured value from the floor, I’d say.

    To resonate the antenna at 60 kHz, the total capacitance must be:

    60 kHz = 1/(2π · sqrt(6.9 mH · C)) → C = 1050 pF

    Which means an additional 1050 – 83 =  970-ish pF should do the trick, which is about what you’d expect from the 64 kHz resonance with the 900 pF cap above. I paralleled pairs of caps until it resonated at 59.9 kHz.

    The -3 dB points (voltage = 1/sqrt(2) down from the peak) turned out to be 58.1 and 60.1 kHz, so my kludged caps are slightly too large or, once again, I nudged the loop.

    Figuring Q = (center frequency) / bandwidth = 59.1 / 2 = 30, which works out close enough to Q = X / R = 2600 / 80 = 33 to be satisfying. Using standard 26-ish AWG ribbon cable, rather than crappy 31-ish AWG eBay junk, would double the conductor area, halve the series resistance, and double the Q. Faced with that much resistance, I’m not sure better caps would make any difference.

    Attaching the spectrum analyzer through a 470 Ω resistor to reduce the load:

    Loop - 40T 1nF - spectrum
    Loop – 40T 1nF – spectrum

    I’d love to believe that big peak over on the left at 57.1 kHz is WWVB, but it’s not.

    What’s more important: the broad hump between 56 and 62 kHz, where the increased amount of background hash suggests the antenna really is resonant, with a center frequency around 59 kHz. The -3 dB points might be 57 and 61 kHz, but at 10 dB/div with 5 dB of hash, I’d be kidding myself.

    Dang, I love it when the numbers work out!

    It’s faintly possible the spectrum analyzer calibration is off by 2.5 kHz at the low end of its range. The internal 300 MHz reference shows 299.999925 and it puts FM stations where they should be, but the former could be self-referential error and the latter lacks enough resolution to be comforting. I must fire up the GPS frequency reference, let it settle for a few days, see whether it produces 10.000000 MHz like it should, then try again.

    The original measurements:

    Loop antenna tuning - measurements
    Loop antenna tuning – measurements
  • LF Loop Antenna: Joint Soldering

    Given five meters of 40 conductor ribbon cable, the object is to make a 40 turn five foot diameter loop antenna by soldering the ends together with a slight offset. After squaring off, marking, and taping the cable ends, I stripped the wires:

    LF Loop Antenna - wire stripping
    LF Loop Antenna – wire stripping

    Twirling those little snippets before pulling them off produced nicely twisted wire ends with no few loose strands. Separate the individual wires, wrap with transformer tape to prevent further separation, run a flux pen along the wire ends, tin with solder, repeat on the far end of the cable.

    Tape one end to the ceramic tile. Align the other end with a one-wire lateral offset and the stripped sections overlapping, then tape it down. Slide a paper strip between the ends, passing under every other wire, to separate the top pairs from the bottom pairs, then tape the strip in place:

    LF Loop Antenna - wire prep
    LF Loop Antenna – wire prep

    Grab each left wire with a needle point tweezer, forcibly align with the corresponding right wire, touch with the iron, iterate:

    LF Loop Antenna - top solder joints
    LF Loop Antenna – top solder joints

    The red wire trailing off to the left will become the center tap.

    Slide a strip of the obligatory Kapton tape underneath the finished joints, slobber on enough clear epoxy to bond the insulation on both sides of the joints into a solid mass, squish another strip atop the epoxy, smooth down, wait for curing.

    Untape from the tile, flip, re-tape, solder the bottom joints similarly, add Kapton / epoxy / Kapton, and that’s that:

    LF Loop Antenna - complete joint
    LF Loop Antenna – complete joint

    Prudence dictates checking for end-to-end continuity after you finish soldering and before you do the Kapton + epoxy thing, which is where I discovered I had 80 Ω of distributed resistance along 200 meters of cable. A quick check showed 40 Ω at the center tap and 20 Ω at the quarters (the black wires on the left mark those points), so it wasn’t a really crappy joint somewhere in the middle.

    The joint and its dangly wires cry out for a 3D printed stiffener which shall remain on the to-do list until I see how the loop tunes up.

  • eBay Listings: Read Carefullly

    What’s wrong with this picture? (clicky for more dots)

    eBay - 40 pin IDC cable - header
    eBay – 40 pin IDC cable – header

    Not obvious?

    Here’s the description, slightly reformatted for clarity:

    New 5m IDC Standard 40 WAY 1.8” Multi-Color Flat Ribbon Cable Wire Connector

    Description

    Type: IDC standard.

    10 colors, 4 group, total 40 pcs cables per lot

    5 meter per lot.

    width: 4.7 cm / 1.8 inch

    Package content: 5M Flat Color Ribbon Cable

    If you divide the 1.8 inch cable width by its 40 conductors, you find the wires lie on a 45 mil pitch. If you were expecting this “IDC standard” cable to fit in standard insulation displacement cable connectors with a 50 mil pitch, you’d be sorely disappointed. You can get metric ribbon cable with a 1 mm = 39 mil pitch, but this ain’t that, either.

    Here’s what an individual eBay wire (black jacket) looks like, compared to a wire from a standard ribbon cable (red jacket):

    Ribbon cable - 26 AWG - eBay vs standard
    Ribbon cable – 26 AWG – eBay vs standard

    A closer look at the strands making up the wires:

    Ribbon cable - 26 AWG - eBay vs standard - strands
    Ribbon cable – 26 AWG – eBay vs standard – strands

    As nearly as I can measure with my trusty caliper, the eBay ribbon cable has wire slightly smaller than 30 AWG, made up of seven 40 AWG strands, as opposed to standard 26 AWG wire made of seven 34 AWG strands. The good stuff might be 28 AWG / 7×36 AWG, but I was unwilling to break out the micrometer for more resolution.

    I’d like to say I noticed that before buying the cable, but it came to light when I measured the total resistance of the whole cable: 80 Ω seemed rather high for 200 meters of 26 AWG wire. The wire tables say that’s about right for 31 AWG copper, though.

    Changing the AWG number by three changes the conductor area by a factor of two, so you’re getting less than half the copper you expected. Bonus: it won’t fit any IDC connectors you have on the shelf, either.

    Turns out a recent QEX article suggested building an LF loop antenna from a ribbon cable, so I was soldering all the conductors in series, rather than using connectors, and it should work reasonably well despite its higher DC resistance.

     

  • Kenmore Model 158 Power Switch: Laying-on-of-hands Repair

    The power switch on Mary’s “embroidery” Kenmore Model 158 sewing machine became exceedingly stiff, to the extent she said it was painful to push. Buying a shiny new switch seemed iffy, because a cursory search through the usual reputable electronic suppliers suggested there’s no way to specify how stiff the button might be, nor how that might feel in actual practice.

    The switch harvested from the pulse-drive machine felt somewhat less stiff, so I decided to (try to) loosen it up and, if that worked, swap it for the stubborn one.

    A pair of rivets hold the two halves of the switch together, obviously intended as a permanent solution. A carbide burr in the Dremel tool dealt with them easily enough:

    Model 158 Power Switch - grinding rivets
    Model 158 Power Switch – grinding rivets

    Inside, the actuator drives a rotating brass contact:

    Model 158 Power Switch - rotor
    Model 158 Power Switch – rotor

    Two stationary brass contacts are spot-welded to the wires:

    Model 158 Power Switch - contacts
    Model 158 Power Switch – contacts

    The actuator under the button consists of a helix-twisted steel rod, a rather stiff spring, and a four-vaned phenolic blade that engages those two little flaps on the rotor. The rivet holes exactly fit plain old 1-72 screws:

    Model 158 Power Switch - actuator stem
    Model 158 Power Switch – actuator stem

    Not seeing anything obviously fix-able inside, I wiped the excess oil off and reassembled it in reverse order:

    Model 158 Power Switch - reassembled
    Model 158 Power Switch – reassembled

    Astonishingly, that bit of attention loosened it up: the button now presses easily!

    I swapped it with the too-stiff switch and declared victory…

  • Vacuum Tube LEDs: Brass Ersatz Heatsink

    A chunk of 1/2 inch = 12.7 mm brass hex rod looks pretty good as an ersatz heatsink serving as an ersatz plate cap on a halogen bulb standing in for a vacuum tube:

    Halogen bulb brass cap - overview
    Halogen bulb brass cap – overview

    The knockoff Neopixels measure just over 10 mm at their widest points, but some judicious filing rounded it off and brought it down to fit in the 3/8 inch = 0.375 = 9.52 mm hole I drilled in the hex:

    Halogen bulb brass cap - wiring
    Halogen bulb brass cap – wiring

    I let it run for a day like that to make sure the thing wasn’t going to crap out, then epoxied everything in place. If the WS2812B controller fails, the repair will require drilling out all the electronics and wiring, then rebuilding it in place.

    The fins come from the same HSS cutoff tool I used for the Bowl o’ Fire cap, cut at 2.5 mm intervals to produce 0.9 mm fins that IMO better suit the smaller diameter. I stopped cutting when the tool got through the hex flats to produce a continuous ring, cut the hex off a bit above the top fin, rounded the end with a carbide insert cutting tool, then sanded the flats to shine ’em up a bit:

    Halogen bulb brass cap - detail flash
    Halogen bulb brass cap – detail flash

    It turns out that 12 inches of wire inside PET braid barely reaches from the cap to the Arduino Pro Mini in the base:

    Halogen bulb brass cap - Arduino Pro Mini
    Halogen bulb brass cap – Arduino Pro Mini

    Next time, I’m going to add half a foot more wire than I think it can possibly require, with PET braid to suit.

    A thin ring of clear epoxy holds the “heatsink” at the dead center of the bulb. It lights up a bit more than I expected, so opaque epoxy may be in order:

    Halogen bulb brass cap - detail red
    Halogen bulb brass cap – detail red

    It’s still too big to suit even the big 21HB5A tubes, but brass definitely wins over plastic!

    That blue PETG base has become the least-attractive part of the lamp, but it’s survivable for now.

    It runs the same TubeMood firmware as the Bowl o’ Fire.

  • Fairchild and Stoddard RF Current Probes / EMC Field Sniffers

    I’ve always wondered how noisy those Arduino + fake Neopixel lamps might be and these RF sniffers might come in handy:

    Fairchild MFC-25 and Stoddart 91550-1 Current Probes
    Fairchild MFC-25 and Stoddart 91550-1 Current Probes

    Even though they’re long obsolete, RF fields haven’t changed much in the intervening decades.

    Fairchild Electronics may have become Electro-Metrics before they vanished in turn; the single useful search result offers a limited spec sheet that describes it as part of a set of three “loop probes covering the frequency range 10kHz-230MHz designed to search for RF magnetic leaks, especially in cabinets and shielded enclosures”. This one, with the blue coating, has a bandwidth of 22 MHz to 230 MHz. It has a TNC connector that now sports a cheap BNC adapter; note that it has standard polarity, not the reverse polarity required by FCC regulations that don’t take Amazon Prime into consideration.

    Stoddard Aircraft Radio Co, Inc passed the 91550-1 baton to ETS-Lindgren, which (as of right now, anyway) offers a datasheet for a gadget that looks remarkably similar. The 30 Hz lower limit on the data plate suggests it’s roughly equivalent to ETS-L’s contemporary 20 Hz 91550-1L probe, but I doubt that makes much practical difference for my simple needs. The adapter takes the probe’s N connector to BNC.

    The Word According to Mad Phil: If you can get to BNC, you can get to anything.

     

  • Vacuum Tube LEDs: Bowl of Fire Floodlight

    Although I didn’t plan it like this, the shape of the first doodad on the mini-lathe reminded me that I really wanted something more presentable than the (now failed) ersatz Neopixel inside the ersatz heatsink atop that big incandescent bulb.

    So, drill a hole in the side:

    Ersatz aluminum heatsink - drilling
    Ersatz aluminum heatsink – drilling

    Epoxy a snippet of brass tubing from the Bottomless Bag o’ Cutoffs into the hole:

    Ersatz aluminum heatsink - tubing trial fit
    Ersatz aluminum heatsink – tubing trial fit

    Recycle the old wire and PET loom, solder to another fake Neopixel, blob epoxy inside to anchor everything, and press it into place:

    Ersatz aluminum heatsink - epoxying LED
    Ersatz aluminum heatsink – epoxying LED

    Cutting the failed LED & plastic heatsink off the wire left it a bit too short for that tall bulb, but some rummaging in the heap produced a 100 W incandescent floodlight with a nicely pebbled lens:

    Reflector floodlight - overview
    Reflector floodlight – overview

    A thin ring of clear epoxy secures the ersatz heatsink to the floodlight:

    Reflector floodlight - finned LED holder
    Reflector floodlight – finned LED holder

    This time, I paid more attention to centering it atop the General Electric logo ring in the middle of the lens, which you can just barely see around the perimeter of the aluminum fin. By pure raw good fortune, the cable ended up pointed in the general direction of the socket’s pull-chain ferrule; you can’t unscrew the bulb without tediously unsoldering the wires from connector atop the knockoff Pro Mini inside the base and squeezing them back out through the ferrule.

    With the firmware set for a single fake Neopixel on pin A3 and a 75 ms update rate, the floodlight bowl fills with color:

    Reflector floodlight - purple phase
    Reflector floodlight – purple phase

    It puts a colored ring on the ceiling and lights the whole room far more than you’d expect from 200 mW of RGB LEDs.

    Pretty slick, even if I do say so myself …