The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Author: Ed

  • DIY Vanilla Extract: The Beginning

    DIY Vanilla Extract
    DIY Vanilla Extract

    Having bought some low-budget Walmart vanilla extract that smells nothing at all like vanilla, I figured it’s time to get serious about this stuff. Recipes for DIY vanilla extract abound on the Internet, but as nearly as I can tell, the basic idea is to put vanilla beans in contact with ethanol, shake occasionally for a couple of months, then enjoy. Uh, by the teaspoonful, that is.

    Quite some years ago I discovered that NYS prohibits the sale of grain alcohol, so you must buy stiff vodka to get high-test ethanol. That glass bottle contains the cheapest 160 proof vodka I could find in the waning years of the last millennium; I figured it was likely to have fewer additives around its 80% ethyl alcohol than anything else in the liquor store. After more than a decade on the Basement Laboratory’s Solvents Shelf (I don’t use a lot of ethanol), a dollop in a saucer burns with an ethereal blue flame: it’s in fine shape.

    The plastic bottle originally held some weird alien fruity liquid (which, IIRC, I  picked up while doing amateur radio duty at a charity event) and has the desirable attribute of a tight sealing lid. It’d be better to use glass and I suppose amber beats clear, but this stuff will spend its entire life in a dark cupboard with all the other spices. Although some recipes call for sterilizing the bottle in boiling water, I figure any bug that can survive 80% ethanol will shrug off hot water… and the vanilla beans probably aren’t all that sterile, anyway.

    A cup of neat vodka, three slit-and-chopped vanilla beans, and away we go. It should be ready for the Christmas baking season.

    If this works, I’ll get a substantial quantity of vanilla beans from the usual eBay supplier and make some really stiff extract. Two bucks a bean at the local grocery store: ouch.

  • Magic Magnetic Protection

    If this is true, I can scrap out my roll of mu metal shielding:

    Magnetic card protection sleeve
    Magnetic card protection sleeve

    I think they mean the sleeve protects the magnetic stripe from mechanical damage, but wedging those two sentences together certainly suggests the envelope has serious anti-magnetic mojo…

  • Self-resonant Frequencies of Some Ceramic Capacitors

    In that version of the GPS+voice interface, I sprinkled 100 nF and 100 pF SMD caps across the input lines in the hope that they’d reduce EMI on the audio board. The board worked fine for years, but now that it’s time to build another board & box, I figured it’d be good to know a bit more about their actual response.

    So I cobbled up a test fixture with a 3 dB pad from the tracking generator output and a 20 dB pad to the spectrum analyzer input (both of those are bogus, because the cap impedance varies wildly, but work with me on this):

    Ceramic 100 nF cap on copper
    Ceramic 100 nF cap on copper

    Pulled an assortment of 100 nF ceramic caps from the stockpile:

    100 nF ceramic capacitor assortment
    100 nF ceramic capacitor assortment

    And rubbed them against the HP8591 spectrum analyzer & tracking generator:

    Cap Comparison - Detail
    Cap Comparison – Detail

    Their self-resonant frequencies are much lower than I expected:

    Cap Comparison
    Cap Comparison

    The attenuators produce about 17 dB of loss with no cap in the circuit, so the disk caps are pretty much asleep at the switch from VHF on up. The small bypass cap in the top photo is OK and the SMD cap is pretty good, but they’re all well past their self-resonant frequency and acting like inductors.

    The relevant equations:

    • FR = 1/(2π √(LC))
    • XC = 1/(2π f C)
    • Q = FR / BW
    • ESR = XC / Q

    The drill goes a little something like this:

    • Find resonant frequency FR and 3 db bandwidth BW
    • Knowing FR and C, find parasitic L
    • Knowing FR and BW, find Q
    • Knowing XC and Q, find ESR

    In round numbers, the 100 nF SMD cap has L=2 nH and ESR=60 mΩ.

    Now, it turns out a 100 pF SMD cap resonates up at 300 MHz, between the VHF and UHF amateur bands:

    SMD - 100 pF Bandwidth
    SMD – 100 pF Bandwidth

    So I think the way to do this is to pick the capacitance to put the self-resonant frequency in the VHF band, parallel another cap to put a second dip in the UHF band, and run with it. A back of the envelope calculation suggests 470 pF and 47 pF, but that obviously depends on a bunch of other imponderables and I’ll just interrogate the heap until the right ones step forward.

    Just to show the test fixture isn’t a complete piece of crap, here’s a 12 pF cap resonating up around 850 MHz:

    SMD - 12 pF Bandwidth
    SMD – 12 pF Bandwidth

    For the combination of components, sweep speeds, bandwidths, and suchlike in effect, the spectrum analyzer’s noise floor is down around -75 dBm. I think the 12 pF cap is actually better than it looks, but I didn’t fiddle around with a narrower resolution bandwidth.

  • Auto Escape Hammer LED Flashlight Hackage

    A cheap auto escape hammer (IIRC, free in the bottom of a tag-sale box filled with stuff I could actually use) has been kicking around the back of the bench for far too long; it had a feeble single-cell incandescent bulb flashlight with the cheapest possible non-switch. I ripped all that out, carved out enough plastic to fit a CR123 lithium cell, hot-melt-glued a real pushbutton switch and 10 mm white LED in place, and soldered it up:

    Lithium cell hacked into auto escape tool
    Lithium cell hacked into auto escape tool

    The CR123 puts out enough juice to light up the LED, but it’d be happier with a bit more current. There’s no limiting resistor, so the LED gets what it gets.

    Augment the screws with a few snippets of Kapton tape, use some real 3M Velcro tape, and it’s all good (albeit ugly on a stick):

    Hacked auto escape hammer
    Hacked auto escape hammer

    Now, there’s no way to test the hammer part of it (perhaps I could visit a junkyard and whack out a few windows for practice?), but at least now we have a disposable flashlight in the van…

  • Great Northeast October Snowstorm

    Our yard accumulated about 14 inches of heavy wet snow that made a mess of the maple trees. Before I could get the snowblower out of the garage, I had to cut up a stack of branches:

    Branches at garage
    Branches at garage

    Yes, there really is that much of a slope leading up to the garage; clearing the driveway immediately after every snowstorm is not optional.

    Many of the branches in the back yard broke off and simply leaned against the ones still arched over the driveway:

    Branches in back yard
    Branches in back yard

    The front yard was a mess:

    Branches in front yard
    Branches in front yard

    In addition to all that, we had branches down beside the house, in the garden, around the beehive, and, in general, everywhere. Obviously, we have too many maples, but they’re what the previous owners planted (or at least didn’t uproot while that was possible).

    The generator bridged 25 hours without power to save the refrigerator & freezer contents and keep the house between 55-60 °F. We survived five days with no phone (shrug) or Internet (eeek!); the cell phone was, as usual, useless because the house sits on a local maximum in a shallow valley below line-of-sight from all the surrounding towers.

    The last break in the phone & Internet cables occurred just north of us:

    Branches on wires
    Branches on wires

    Those branches came from a tree across the road that put down roots on a slab of rock that just didn’t provide enough griptivity:

    Tree down on Rt 376
    Tree down on Rt 376

    After three days of diligent bow-saw work and mule-mode dragging, we cleared the yards. The back yard clutter went over the cliff toward our bottomlands adjoining the Wappingers Creek and the front yard timber now sits ready for what we hope will be the town’s pickup:

    Branches ready for pickup
    Branches ready for pickup

    Our experience was a nuisance, rather than a disaster, unlike that of many folks in the area.

    Now it’s time for the annual fall leaf-shredding adventure

    [Update: Turns out the NYS DOT drew the short straw:

    NYS DOT crew grinding branches
    NYS DOT crew grinding branches

    Took them the better part of 15 minutes; the larger branches nearly stalled that giant chipper. A tip o’ the hard hat!]

  • OpenSCAD: Useful Sizes file

    My Useful Sizes.scad file has been accumulating the dimensions of nuts & bolts & a motor that don’t (seem to) appear elsewhere in the OpenSCAD universe:

    //-- Useful sizes
    
    Tap2_56 = 0.070 * inch;
    Clear2_56 = 0.082 * inch;
    Head2_56 = 0.156 * inch;
    Head2_56Thick = 0.055 * inch;
    Nut2_56Dia = 0.204 * inch;
    Nut2_56Thick = 0.065 * inch;
    
    Tap3_48 = 0.079 * inch;
    Clear3_48 = 0.096 * inch;
    Head3_48 = 0.184 * inch;
    Head3_48Thick = 0.058 * inch;
    Nut3_48Dia = 0.201 * inch;
    Nut3_48Thick = 0.073 * inch;
    
    Tap4_40 = 0.089 * inch;
    Clear4_40 = 0.110 * inch;
    Head4_40 = 0.211 * inch;
    Head4_40Thick = 0.065 * inch;
    Nut4_40Dia = 0.228 * inch;
    Nut4_40Thick = 0.086 * inch;
    
    Tap10_32 = 0.159 * inch;
    Clear10_32 = 0.190 * inch;
    Head10_32 = 0.373 * inch;
    Head10_32Thick = 0.110 * inch;
    Nut10_32Dia = 0.433 * inch;
    Nut10_32Thick = 0.130 * inch;
    
    Tap025_20 = 0.201 * inch;
    Clear025_20 = 0.2660 * inch;
    Head025_20 = 0.492 * inch;
    Head025_20Thick = 0.144 * inch;
    Nut025_20Dia = 0.505 *inch;
    Nut025_20Thick = 0.161 * inch;
    
    NEMA17_ShaftDia = 5.0;
    NEMA17_ShaftLength = 24.0;
    NEMA17_PilotDia = 0.866 * inch;
    NEMA17_PilotLength = 0.080 * inch;
    NEMA17_BCD = 1.725 * inch;
    NEMA17_BoltDia = 3.5;
    NEMA17_BoltOC = 1.220 * inch;
    

    It seems I’m among the few CamelCase holdouts…

  • Logitech Ball Camera Tripod Adapter

    The Logitech notebook webcam that peers into the Thing-O-Matic has terrible dynamic range compensation; turning on the LED ring light washes out the image something awful. An old Logitech ball camera seems better, but it sits atop a rubbery dingus adapted to grip huge old laptops. So I built an adapter with a standard 1/4-20 tripod screw thread in the bottom that ought to make it more useful.

    The old & new mounts compared:

    Logitech ball camera mounts
    Logitech ball camera mounts

    The color change comes from switching to yellow filament for an upcoming larger object.

    The solid model shows those tiny little notches will require a bit of riffler file work:

    Logitech camera tripod adapter - solid model
    Logitech camera tripod adapter – solid model

    The bottom has a blind 1/4-20 tapped hole. Lacking a bottoming tap, not having any broken 1/4-20 taps, and being unwilling to grind the end off a perfectly good taper tap, I filed three notches along a bolt. Ran the taper tap in until it hit bottom, ran the bolt in likewise, and defined the result to be Good Enough:

    Homebrew bottoming tap
    Homebrew bottoming tap

    On the other end, the most probable failure will leave that delicate little post jammed firmly inside the camera’s socket. There’s not enough post to allow printing a small guide hole, but there’s no real need for one; I drilled a #50 hole right down the middle, ran a 2-56 screw into it without tapping the hole, and filed the screw head flat:

    Camera mount with filed screw
    Camera mount with filed screw

    After cleaning up those notches, it snapped solidly into place:

    Logitech ball camera with mount
    Logitech ball camera with mount

    And then the camera sits neatly atop a cheap Gorillapod knockoff:

    Logitech ball camera on tripod
    Logitech ball camera on tripod

    That tiny reddish dot in the middle of the imposing set of rings marks the actual lens, so it’s more of a pinhole camera than anything else. The fixed focus kicks in beyond a meter, but a bit of rummaging in the Box o’ Lenses produced a random meniscus lens that pulled the focus in to maybe 100 mm. Alas, that means the camera must float in mid-air about 15 mm inside the Thing-O-Matic’s box. If I can conjure up a mount that holds the ball inside the box, above-and-forward of the stage, that’d work great. VLC can allegedly rotate the image upside-down, so maybe I can mount it bottom-up.

    Here’s everything I know about those two cameras, with the ball camera on top and the webcam on the bottom:

    Logitech ball and notebook webcam data
    Logitech ball and notebook webcam data

    Apparently it’s easier to put that information on a tag than provide a good old data plate on the camera body.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Tripod mount for Logitech ball camera
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU - Oct 2011
    
    include </home/ed/Thing-O-Matic/lib/MCAD/units.scad>
    include </home/ed/Thing-O-Matic/Useful Sizes.scad>
    include </home/ed/Thing-O-Matic/lib/visibone_colors.scad>
    
    //-------
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with +0 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.33;
    ThreadWidth = 2.0 * ThreadThick;
    
    HoleFinagle = 0.2;
    HoleFudge = 1.02;
    
    function HoleAdjust(Diameter) = HoleFudge*Diameter + HoleFinagle;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    //-------
    // Dimensions
    
    BallDia = 60.0;				// camera ball
    BallRad = BallDia/2;
    
    BaseDia = 16.0;				// interface at tripod surface
    BaseRad = BaseDia/2;
    
    BaseLength = 10.0;			// to base of ball
    
    BoltDia = Tap025_20;		// standard 1/4-20 thread
    BoltLength = 7.0;
    
    StemLength = 8.5;
    StemDia = 4.7;
    StemRad = StemDia/2;
    
    FlangeWidth = 6.6;
    FlangeThick = 2.6;
    
    NotchSectionDia = 1.4;		// toroid cross-section diameter
    NotchSectionRad = NotchSectionDia/2;
    NotchOffset = 2.3;			// from top of stem
    
    //-------
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=HoleAdjust(FixDia)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-------
    //
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    translate([0,0,BaseLength])
      union() {
    	difference() {
    	  translate([0,0,-BaseLength])
    		cylinder(r=BaseRad,h=2*BaseLength);
    	  translate([0,0,BallRad])
    		sphere(r=BallRad);
    	  translate([0,0,-(BaseLength + Protrusion)])
    		PolyCyl(BoltDia,(BoltLength + Protrusion));
    	}
    	rotate(180/16)
    	  cylinder(r=StemRad,h=StemLength,$fn=16);
    	difference() {
    	  translate([0,0,StemLength/2])
    		cube([FlangeWidth,FlangeThick,StemLength],center=true);
    	  translate([0,0,(StemLength - NotchOffset)])
    		rotate_extrude(convexity=3,$fn=64)
    		  translate([FlangeWidth/2,0,0])
    			circle(r=NotchSectionRad,$fn=16);
    	  translate([0,-FlangeWidth/2,StemLength + sqrt(FlangeWidth)])
    		rotate([0,45,0])
    		  cube(FlangeWidth + 2*Protrusion);
    	  translate([0,FlangeWidth/2,StemLength + sqrt(FlangeWidth)])
    		rotate([0,45,180])
    		  cube(FlangeWidth + 2*Protrusion);
    	}
      }