The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Author: Ed

  • Vacuum Tube Lights: Poughkeepsie Day School Mini Maker Faire 2016

    Should you be around Poughkeepsie today, drop in on the Poughkeepsie Day School’s Mini Maker Faire, where I’ll be showing off some glowy LED goodness:

    21HB5A on platter - orange green
    21HB5A on platter – orange green

    The 5U4GB side lighted dual rectifier looks pretty good after I increased the phase between the two LEDs:

    5U4GB Full-wave vacuum rectifier - cyan red phase
    5U4GB Full-wave vacuum rectifier – cyan red phase

    A gaggle of glowing vacuum tubes makes for a rather static display, though, so I conjured a color mixer so folks could play with the colors:

    Color mixer - overview
    Color mixer – overview

    Three analog potentiometers set the intensity of the pure RGB colors on the 8 mm Genuine Adafruit Neopixels. A closer look at the circuitry shows it’s assembled following a freehand “the bigger the blob, the better the job” soldering technique:

    Color mixer - controls
    Color mixer – controls

    The blended RGB color from a fourth Neopixel backlights the bulb to project a shadow of the filament on the front surface:

    Color mixer - bulb detail
    Color mixer – bulb detail

    It’s worth noting that the three Genuine Adafruit 8 mm Neopixels have a nonstandard RGB color layout, while the knockoff 5050 SMD Neopixel on the bulb has the usual GRB layout. You can’t mix-n-match layouts in a single Neopixel string, so a few lines of hackage rearrange the R and G values to make the mixed colors come out right.

    An IR proximity sensor lets you invert the colors with the wave of a fingertip to send Morse code in response to (some of) the vacuum tubes on display nearby. The sensor glows brightly in pure IR, with all the other LEDs going dark:

    Color mixer - controls - IR image
    Color mixer – controls – IR image

    The switch sits in a little printed bezel to make it big enough to see. The slight purple glow in the visible-light picture comes from the camera’s IR sensitivity; you can’t see anything with your (well, my) unaided eyes.

    The “chassis” emerged from the wood pile: a slab of laminate flooring and two strips of countertop, with a slab of bronze-tint acrylic from a Genuine IBM PC Printer Stand that had fallen on hard times quite a while ago. Bandsaw to size, belt-sand to smooth; nothing particularly precise, although I did use the Sherline for coordinate drilling:

    Color mixer panel - drill setup
    Color mixer panel – drill setup

    That’s laying it all out by hand to get a feel for what it’ll look like and drilling the holes at actual coordinates to make everything line up neatly.

    Hot melt glue and epoxy hold everything together, with foam tape securing the two PCBs. Those cap screws go into 10-32 brass inserts hammered into the laminate flooring strip.

    There’s no schematic. Connect the pots to A0 through A2, wire the Neopixels in series from D8 with the bulb LED last in the string, wire the prox sensor to D9, and away you go.

    It’s fun to play with colors!

    The Arduino source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Color mixing demo for Mini Maker Faire
    // Ed Nisley – KE4ANU – November 2016
    #include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>
    //———-
    // Pin assignments
    #define PIN_NEO 8 // DO – data out to first Neopixel
    #define PIN_HEARTBEAT 13 // DO – Arduino LED
    #define PIN_FLASH 9 // DI – flash button
    #define PIN_POTRED A0 // AI – red potentiometer
    #define PIN_POTGREEN A1 // AI – green potentiometer
    #define PIN_POTBLUE A2 // AI – blue potentiometer
    //———-
    // Constants
    #define PIXELS 4 // number of pixels
    #define PIXEL_RED 2 // physical channel layout
    #define PIXEL_GREEN 1
    #define PIXEL_BLUE 0
    #define PIXEL_MIX (PIXELS – 1) // pixel with mixed color
    #define PIXEL_FLASH (PIXELS – 1) // pixel that flashes
    // update LEDs only this many ms apart (minus loop() overhead)
    #define UPDATEINTERVAL 25ul
    #define UPDATEMS (UPDATEINTERVAL – 1ul)
    //———-
    // Globals
    // instantiate the Neopixel buffer array
    // color order is RGB for 8 mm diffuse LEDs, GRB for mixed 5050 LED at end
    Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(PIXELS, PIN_NEO, NEO_RGB + NEO_KHZ800);
    uint32_t FullWhite = strip.Color(255,255,255);
    uint32_t FullOff = strip.Color(0,0,0);
    // colors in each LED
    enum pixcolors {RED, GREEN, BLUE, PIXELSIZE};
    uint32_t PotColors[PIXELSIZE];
    uint32_t UniColor;
    unsigned long MillisNow;
    unsigned long MillisThen;
    //– Helper routine for printf()
    int s_putc(char c, FILE *t) {
    Serial.write(c);
    }
    //——————
    // Set the mood
    void setup() {
    pinMode(PIN_HEARTBEAT,OUTPUT);
    digitalWrite(PIN_HEARTBEAT,LOW); // show we arrived
    Serial.begin(57600);
    fdevopen(&s_putc,0); // set up serial output for printf()
    printf("Color Mixer Demo for Mini Maker Faire\r\nEd Nisley – KE4ZNU – November 2016\r\n");
    // set up pixels
    strip.begin();
    strip.show();
    // lamp test: a brilliant white flash on all pixels
    // pixel color layout doesn't matter for a white flash
    printf("Lamp test: flash white\r\n");
    for (byte i=0; i<5 ; i++) {
    for (int j=0; j < strip.numPixels(); j++) { // fill LEDs with white
    strip.setPixelColor(j,FullWhite);
    }
    strip.show();
    delay(500);
    for (int j=0; j < strip.numPixels(); j++) { // fill LEDs with black
    strip.setPixelColor(j,FullOff);
    }
    strip.show();
    delay(500);
    }
    // lamp test: walk a white flash along the string
    printf("Lamp test: walking white\r\n");
    strip.setPixelColor(0,FullWhite);
    strip.show();
    delay(500);
    for (int i=1; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) {
    digitalWrite(PIN_HEARTBEAT,HIGH);
    strip.setPixelColor(i-1,FullOff);
    strip.setPixelColor(i,FullWhite);
    strip.show();
    digitalWrite(PIN_HEARTBEAT,LOW);
    delay(500);
    }
    strip.setPixelColor(strip.numPixels() – 1,FullOff);
    strip.show();
    delay(500);
    MillisNow = MillisThen = millis();
    }
    //——————
    // Run the mood
    void loop() {
    MillisNow = millis();
    if ((MillisNow – MillisThen) >= UPDATEMS) { // time for color change?
    digitalWrite(PIN_HEARTBEAT,HIGH);
    PotColors[RED] = strip.Color(analogRead(PIN_POTRED) >> 2,0,0);
    PotColors[GREEN] = strip.Color(0,analogRead(PIN_POTGREEN) >> 2,0);
    PotColors[BLUE] = strip.Color(0,0,analogRead(PIN_POTBLUE) >> 2);
    strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_RED,PotColors[RED]); // load up pot indicators
    strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_GREEN,PotColors[GREEN]);
    strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_BLUE,PotColors[BLUE]);
    strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_MIX,strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_RED) |
    strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_GREEN) |
    strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_BLUE));
    if (PIXEL_FLASH != PIXEL_MIX) {
    strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_FLASH,strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_MIX));
    }
    if (LOW == digitalRead(PIN_FLASH)) { // if flash input active, overlay flash
    strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_FLASH,0x00FFFFFF ^ strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_FLASH));
    strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_RED, 0x00FF0000 ^ strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_RED));
    strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_GREEN,0x0000FF00 ^ strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_GREEN));
    strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_BLUE, 0x000000FF ^ strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_BLUE));
    }
    UniColor = 0x000000ff & strip.getPixelColor(PIXELS – 1); // hack to rearrange colors for 5050 LED
    UniColor |= 0x00ff0000 & (strip.getPixelColor(PIXELS – 1) << 8);
    UniColor |= 0x0000ff00 & (strip.getPixelColor(PIXELS – 1) >> 8);
    strip.setPixelColor(PIXELS – 1,UniColor);
    strip.show(); // send out colors
    MillisThen = MillisNow;
    digitalWrite(PIN_HEARTBEAT,LOW);
    }
    }
    view raw ColorMixer.ino hosted with ❤ by GitHub
  • Vacuum Tube LEDs: Mogul Socket With Platters

    Adding two hard drive platters draws attention away from the printed puck holding the microcontroller:

    500 W Incandescent - Mogul socket with platters
    500 W Incandescent – Mogul socket with platters

    Granted, it looks odd. I think it’s a step in the right direction, if there is any right direction at all.

  • Silver-Mica Capacitor Assortment

    With RF projects looming on the horizon, now seemed like a good time to restock the silver-mica capacitor supply:

    Silver-mica capacitor - assortment
    Silver-mica capacitor – assortment

    That’s 150-ish little brown envelopes, found on eBay in the lowest-entropy state I can imagine, with about 11 pounds of caps delivered for a bit under $5/pound.

    The envelopes bear date stamps from the mid- to late-60s:

    Silver-mica capacitor - 188 pF 0.5 pct - envelope
    Silver-mica capacitor – 188 pF 0.5 pct – envelope

    I think these came directly from the Electro-Motive Mfg Co production line or QC lab, because some of the envelopes have notes about “WE”, “Bell Labs”, and suchlike. They seem to be special-production items, not the usual caps from your usual distributor.

    The values and tolerances are weird beyond belief:

    Silver-mica capacitor - 6160 pF 0.5 pct - on envelope
    Silver-mica capacitor – 6160 pF 0.5 pct – on envelope

    If you’re taking notes, 6160 pF lies halfway between the 6120 and 6190 values in the E192 series.

    And, yes, that’s a cap with ½% tolerance (forgive the bright-red color imbalance):

    Silver-mica capacitor - 6160 pF 0.5 pct - detail
    Silver-mica capacitor – 6160 pF 0.5 pct – detail

    Most of the caps are 1%, which is kinda-sorta typical for silver-mica. Then you find something unbelievable:

    Silver-mica capacitor - 22.8 pF 0.1 pct
    Silver-mica capacitor – 22.8 pF 0.1 pct

    Stipulated, I’ve lived a sheltered existence. Have you ever seen a 0.1% tolerance cap? The assortment has more of those, scattered throughout the range.

    Regrettably, the entire decade from just over 300 pF to just under 3000 pF has gone missing: somewhere out there, someone has another box from the room that housed this collection. So it goes; given the plethora of values, I can always make series-parallel combinations to get what’s needed.

  • Phishing Knows No Bounds

    This appeared on The Mighty Thor’s phone during a Squidwrench meeting:

    BofA Phishing
    BofA Phishing

    “To maintain a secure banking environment” seems diagnostic of a scam.

    Discouragingly, some of our banks still send emails with clicky links using third-party mail servers, so checkonlineinfo.com doesn’t seem any more suspicious than, say, Schwab’s customercenter.net.

    A pox on their collective backsides!

  • More Kickstand Plates

    Having recently left the last of the kickstand plates somewhere along our route, I bandsawed, belt-sanded, and Forstner-drilled a new set:

    Kickstand plates
    Kickstand plates

    The slightly rectangular shape extracted four plates from of a scrap of 3/8 inch plywood, with almost nothing left over. The fourth plate had already found its way into the under-seat bag by the time I thought of a picture.

    My can of fluorescent red paint having lost its mojo since the most recent application, these shall remain unpainted forever more; as even forget-me-not red seems to have little effect, that may not matter.

  • Cast Iron Pan Seasoning: Low-woo Results

    The original cast-iron seasoning recipe, after half a dozen iterations of flax seed oil & high-temperature baking, produced disappointing results:

    Wagner cast iron skillet - washed - top
    Wagner cast iron skillet – washed – top

    The key point of seasoning seems to require heating the oil enough to polymerize its molecular thingies, with (IMO) pretty nearly everything else boiling down to woo.

    Since that rusting incident, I’ve done this after every use:

    • Wipe the pan clean with the same hot soapy water I use for everything else
    • Remove crud with the same Scotchbrite / sponge pad I use for everything else
    • Rinse and wipe dry with the sponge side of the pad
    • Set stove timer for 3 minutes
    • Put pan on simmer burner, set to high flame
    • Continue cleanup until timer sounds
    • Set stove timer for 3 minutes
    • Wipe half a dozen drops of flax seed oil around pan with cotton cloth scrap
    • Continue cleanup until timer sounds
    • Turn off simmer burner
    • Wipe pan with that oily cotton scrap

    The pan reaches about 300 °F after 3 minutes. The “opening the pores” thing is woo, but a completely dry pan doesn’t spit back and that’s a major plus.

    The pan tops out at a bit over 400 °F after a total of 6 minutes. There’s no smoke, no excitement, just a hot pan on the back burner.

    Given that I’m washing the pan anyway, the whole “seasoning” operation adds maybe two minutes to the process. By now, it’s entirely automatic.

    Nota Bene: Set the timer before turning on the burner and before adding the oil, because you will become distracted and will not remember the pan quietly heating on the back burner. You have been warned.

    After two months of doing that about once a day:

    Wagner Cast Iron Skillet - Low Woo Seasoning
    Wagner Cast Iron Skillet – Low Woo Seasoning

    Granted, it looks about the same as the previous results, but this uniform dull black coating repels water, doesn’t rust, loves oil, wipes clean without scouring, and the daily omelet doesn’t stick hardly at all. Obviously, the key difference is that I’ve polymerized a gazillion coats of oil, rather than half a dozen.

    Although I have no idea whether I’m exposing us to lethal free radicals created by the polymerization process, I doubt anybody else knows anything on that subject with regard to their own seasoning technique, so we’re pretty much even. As with most such worries, It Doesn’t Matter.

    Next, I’ll just wipe the pan and let it dry in the rack. That coating should eventually wear off, at least in the high-traffic areas; let’s see how little maintenance it requires.

     

  • Discrete LED Aging After Two Decades

    While at another Vassar concert, I noticed a manufacturing date stamp on one of the LED exit signs in Skinner Hall:

    Exit Sign - Manufacturing date
    Exit Sign – Manufacturing date

    I like the “Replacement lamp not applicable” line. I wonder how recently they’ve tested the battery for the projected 90 minutes of backup time…

    These old LEDs show the expected brightness variations:

    Exit Sign - LED aging
    Exit Sign – LED aging

    So, now you know what your discrete LEDs will look like after two decades of continuous use. That’s if anybody (else) still uses discrete LEDs, of course.