The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Author: Ed

  • Dryer Vent Filter Snout

    Dryer Vent Filter Snout

    The first step in adding a filter bag to the dryer vent requires a convenient way to attach it. Because we live in the future, a couple of hours of 3D printing produced something that might work:

    Clothes Dryer Vent Filter Snout - installed
    Clothes Dryer Vent Filter Snout – installed

    It’s made of TPU, which is bendy enough to ease two tabs into the two outermost slots you can see and a corresponding pair of tabs into slots on the wall side.

    The solid model shows the part snapped inside the vent:

    Clothes Dryer Vent Filter Snout - OpenSCAD show
    Clothes Dryer Vent Filter Snout – OpenSCAD show

    The flared bottom takes something like three hours to print (TPU likes slooow extrusion), so I did the top ring first to verify the tab fit:

    Clothes Dryer Vent Filter Snout - OpenSCAD build
    Clothes Dryer Vent Filter Snout – OpenSCAD build

    Both parts come from hull() surfaces wrapped around quartets of thin circles at the proper positions; the difference() of two slightly different hulls produces thin shells.

    A thin layer of JB PlasticBonder urethane adhesive, which bonds TPU like glue, holds the two parts together. I used the tan variant and, while it’s not a perfect match, it definitely looks better than black. Not that it matters in this case.

    Mary will sew up a bag with a drawstring holding it to the snout. If everything survives the performance tests, printing the whole snout in one four-hour job will both make sense and eliminate an uneven joint that’s sure to be a lint-catcher.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Clothes dryer vent filter snout
    // Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
    // 2025-10-07
    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    Layout = "Ring"; // [Show,Build,Ring,Taper]
    /* [Hidden] */
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1;
    NumSides = 4*3*2*4;
    $fn=NumSides;
    Gap = 5.0;
    // Centers of corner rounding circles
    InnerWidth = 3.0; // wall inside snout
    InnerRadius = 6.0; // inner corner rounding
    RR = [130.0/2 – InnerRadius,91.0/2 – InnerRadius]; // right rear corner
    RF = [112.0/2 – InnerRadius,-(91.0/2 – InnerRadius)]; // right front corner
    CornerCtrs = [[RR.x,RR.y],[RF.x,RF.y],[-RF.x,RF.y],[-RR.x,RR.y]]; // clockwise from RR
    InsertHeight = 7.0; // overall height inside the snout
    TabOC = [73.0,91.0]; // tabs locking into snout
    TabCtrs = [[TabOC.x/2,TabOC.y/2],[TabOC.x/2,-TabOC.y/2],[-TabOC.x/2,-TabOC.y/2],[-TabOC.x/2,TabOC.y/2]];
    TabRadius = 5.0;
    TabHeight = 3.0;
    TaperHeight = 20.0; // Taper holding filter bag
    TaperRadius = 10.0; // outward to capture bag string
    TaperWidth = 2.0; // wall width
    TaperCtrs = CornerCtrs + [[0,-(TaperRadius – InnerWidth)],[0,0],[0,0],[0,-(TaperRadius – InnerWidth)]];
    //—–
    // Clear inside vent opening as 2D shape
    module Opening() {
    hull()
    for (p = CornerCtrs)
    translate(p)
    circle(r=InnerRadius);
    }
    //—–
    // Insert ring locking into vent snout
    module Ring() {
    difference() {
    union() {
    linear_extrude(h=InsertHeight)
    offset(delta=InnerWidth)
    hull()
    for (p = CornerCtrs)
    translate(p)
    circle(r=InnerRadius);
    up(InsertHeight – TabHeight)
    linear_extrude(h=TabHeight)
    for (p = TabCtrs)
    translate(p)
    circle(r=TabRadius);
    }
    down(Protrusion)
    linear_extrude(h=2*InsertHeight)
    Opening();
    }
    }
    //—–
    // Taper glued to ring
    module Taper() {
    difference() {
    hull() {
    up(TaperHeight)
    linear_extrude(h=Protrusion)
    offset(delta=InnerWidth)
    hull()
    for (p = CornerCtrs)
    translate(p)
    circle(r=InnerRadius);
    linear_extrude(h=Protrusion)
    offset(delta=TaperRadius)
    hull()
    for (p = TaperCtrs)
    translate(p)
    circle(r=TaperRadius);
    }
    hull() {
    up(TaperHeight)
    linear_extrude(h=2*Protrusion)
    offset(delta=InnerWidth)
    hull()
    for (p = CornerCtrs)
    translate(p)
    circle(r=InnerRadius – InnerWidth);
    down(Protrusion)
    linear_extrude(h=2*Protrusion)
    offset(delta=TaperRadius – TaperWidth)
    hull()
    for (p = TaperCtrs)
    translate(p)
    circle(r=TaperRadius);
    }
    }
    }
    //—–
    // Build things
    if (Layout == "Ring")
    Ring();
    if (Layout == "Taper")
    Taper();
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    up(TaperHeight)
    Ring();
    Taper();
    }
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    back(55)
    up(InsertHeight)
    yrot(180)
    Ring();
    fwd(55)
    up(TaperHeight)
    yrot(180)
    Taper();
    }
  • Polydryer Humidity: October

    Polydryer Humidity: October

    Another month of data from all those Polydryer boxes:

    7 Oct 20258 Oct
    Filament%RHWeight – gWt gain – g%RH
    PETG White2826.61.619
    PETG Black2526.61.620
    PETG Orange2926.61.621
    PETG Blue2326.71.715
    PETG-CF Blue2626.61.623
    PETG-CF Black2326.41.420
    PETG-CF Gray3026.51.526
    TPU2826.31.327
    Empty 1 → White3526.71.737
    Empty 23627.12.124

    The “PETG White” spool in the top line is nearly empty, so I loaded a new spool into the “Empty 1” box.

    The “Empty 1” 35% value on 7 Oct matches the other empty box, the desiccant having pulled the humidity down from the 51% basement level. The weight of the water pulled out seems low compared to “Empty 2”, as they both started with a fresh batch of basement air while changing the desiccant in September.

    They’re again filled with 25 g of alumina beads, although I’m beginning to think silica gel does a better job.

    A picture of the boxes, thus avoiding WordPress reminding me pictures improve SEO:

    PolyDryer PC4 Fitting - Prusa MMU3 setup
    PolyDryer PC4 Fitting – Prusa MMU3 setup
  • Belkin F6C1500 UPS Re-batterying

    Belkin F6C1500 UPS Re-batterying

    After about four years, the two well-aged 12 V 9 A·hr batteries in the Belkin F6C1500 UPS gave up after a few minutes without line power, whereupon I swapped the UPS out for a new one.

    The old batteries don’t have much life left in them (the date in the title should be 2021):

    SigmasTek 12V SLA -2025-09-30
    SigmasTek 12V SLA -2025-09-30

    That’s with a 1 A load, rather than the 2 A I used earlier, as they’ll never be used for heavy loads again.

    The new 7 A·hr batteries can power a 300 W incandescent bulb for 10 minutes before sounding the Low Battery alert, then another three minutes before shutting down. That’s about 12 A at 24 V, call it 2.6 A·hr from grossly overstressed batteries.

  • New Dryer Vent

    New Dryer Vent

    After the deck stain cured for a few days, I replaced the dryer vent:

    Dryer vent
    Dryer vent

    The alert reader will note it’s held to the siding with four stainless steel 4 mm socket-head cap screws, for which I’m not going to apologize one little bit.

    They fit into a quartet of threaded wood inserts driven into the siding, because the previous vent had small steel screws that pulled out many years ago.

    I used a 4-¼ inch oscillating hole saw to embiggen the original 4.000 inch hole through the wall that doesn’t fit contemporary “4 inch” dryer vent pipe. The 4.000 inch hole in the interior seal plate also needed embiggening.

    We must add a filter bag of some sort, as the dryer really wants to coat the deck in fuzz, but that’s in the nature of fine tuning.

    There are no other pictures, as this was a ten minute job that burned an entire afternoon …

  • Worst Deck Staining Job: Recoated

    Worst Deck Staining Job: Recoated

    A year after using up the rest of the stain that Came With The House™, I pressure-washed the worst deck staining job into submission:

    Deck restaining - pressure washed
    Deck restaining – pressure washed

    Given the variegated ugly remaining, a “solid” color seemed appropriate. Based on web color samples, we independently decided “Cedar Naturaltone” was the least awful choice:

    Deck restaining - Behr Cedar Naturaltone
    Deck restaining – Behr Cedar Naturaltone

    I am not an expert on woods, but IMO that ain’t close to any real substance named “cedar”.

    The instructions insist two thin coats will produce a better outcome than one thick coat, so I did my best:

    Deck restaining - starting
    Deck restaining – starting

    The first coat dried slightly less orange than I feared:

    Deck restaining - first coat
    Deck restaining – first coat

    After the second coat, it’s not really pumpkin out there, but it’s pretty close. The phone camera + GIMP seem unable to cope with the situation, so trust me when I say that’s a sheet of pure white EVA foam:

    Deck restaining - not pumpkin
    Deck restaining – not pumpkin

    I suspect the stain / paint will outlive the deck structure, but now it’s uniformly ugly.

  • Mostly Removing Acrylic Scratches

    Mostly Removing Acrylic Scratches

    Some time ago I made a simple guide / carrier to help select & arrange smashed glass fragments to fit within a given diameter:

    Coaster Layout - selected fragments
    Coaster Layout – selected fragments

    The laser-engraved guide lines confused GIMP’s edge detection to no end.

    It came from a large sheet of 1 mm acrylic, formerly a poster cover, bearing scars of its long history in the “might be useful someday” stash. I wondered if I could remove enough scratches and scuffs to ease GIMP’s workload.

    Stipulated: I am a cheapskate.

    Laser-cut a suitable sheet and sand both sides with 220 grit paper to what looked like a uniform surface:

    Acrylic polishing - 220
    Acrylic polishing – 220

    Continue scrubbing with 400, 800, 1000, 1500, and 3000 grit papers:

    Acrylic polishing - 3000
    Acrylic polishing – 3000

    Massage it with Novus Polish 3, 2, and 1:

    Acrylic polishing - Novus 1
    Acrylic polishing – Novus 1

    At best, it’s more translucent than transparent and definitely not an optical-quality polishing job:

    Acrylic polishing - translucency
    Acrylic polishing – translucency

    Fortunately, I need not care about the edges, because it goes in a square frame with a circular cutout.

    Tape it into that cardboard frame, scan it against a black background, and blow out the contrast to show I should have started with 100 grit paper and paid more attention to that “uniform surface” thing:

    Acrylic polishing - scratches
    Acrylic polishing – scratches

    In use, though, it doesn’t look all that bad:

    Fragment layout - 5in Set B - scan tweaked
    Fragment layout – 5in Set B – scan tweaked

    Come to find out those glittery cracks between all the cuboids still confuse GIMP’s edge detection, but at least hand-tracing the outline is easier without all the lines.

    The entire “polishing” series as a slideshow for your amusement:

    • Acrylic polishing - 220
    • Acrylic polishing - 400
    • Acrylic polishing - 800
    • Acrylic polishing - 1000
    • Acrylic polishing - 1500
    • Acrylic polishing - 3000
    • Acrylic polishing - Novus 3
    • Acrylic polishing - Novus 2
    • Acrylic polishing - Novus 1

    FWIW, those fragments turned out nicely:

    Smashed Glass 3D Printed Coaster - Set B
    Smashed Glass 3D Printed Coaster – Set B

    More on that later …

  • Glow In The Dark Pool Sandals

    Glow In The Dark Pool Sandals

    For reasons not relevant here, after Having Been Advised to not walk barefoot on our wood floors, I picked up a pair of beach / pool sandals with comfy soles. Although they have a white logo, they’re black and essentially invisible in the dark when I need them most.

    Start by taking a photo of the logo on the clamped-flat upper strap:

    UnderArmour logo - flattened
    UnderArmour logo – flattened

    Use GIMP to select the white area, clean it up a little, convert the selection into a path, export it as an SVG file, import into LightBurn, scale to match reality, and Fire The Laser:

    UnderArmour logo - GITD tape cutting
    UnderArmour logo – GITD tape cutting

    That’s a roll of glow-in-the-dark tape which is almost certainly a lethal combination of PVC and phosphorescent stuff, so hold your breath while it cuts.

    It’s “actually a “kiss cut” through the tape, but not through the backing paper, letting the whole thing hang together after the operation.

    Peel-n-stick on the (still flattened) sandals, expose them to light, and It Just Works:

    UnderArmour logo - glowing
    UnderArmour logo – glowing

    The fit isn’t perfect, perhaps due to insufficient flattening, but it’s close enough for my simple needs.