The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Month: November 2015

  • Tecumseh 36638 Throttle Knob

    The upper-left tab broke off this “knob” shortly after we got the leaf shredder:

    Throttle knob - broken original
    Throttle knob – broken original

    But it worked well enough that, following my usual course of action, I could ignore the problem. Until a few days ago, that is, when the remaining tab on that end pulled out of the slot on the engine and the whole affair bent into uselessness.

    It’s a $10 item from eBay (with free shipping), $8 from Amazon ($4, not eligible for Prime, so plus $4 shipping), out of stock at my usual online small engine source, and not worth biking a few dozen miles here & there to see if anybody has one. I know better than to look for repair parts at Lowe’s / Home Depot. It’s Tecumseh Part 36638, which may come in handy some day.

    So, we begin…

    It’s one of those pesky injection-molded miracle plastic doodads that can’t be printed in one piece, so I designed the tabs as separate parts and glued them in place. The solid model shows the intended assembly, with a bit of clearance around the tabs for tolerance and glue slop:

    Tecumseh Throttle Knob - solid model - show view
    Tecumseh Throttle Knob – solid model – show view

    External clearances aren’t an issue, so I made the base plate longer, wider, and thicker, which gave the tabs something to grab onto. The half-round knob is bigger, more angular, and uglier than the OEM knob, because I had trouble holding onto the original while wearing work gloves.

    Printing a few extra tabs allows the inevitable finger fumble:

    Throttle knob - on platform
    Throttle knob – on platform

    The tabs stand on edge to properly orient the printed threads around the perimeter: a great force will try to rip that triangular feature right off the tab, so wrapping the thread as shown maximizes the strength. Laying them flat on their backs would put the force in shear, exactly parallel to thread-to-thread bonds; I wouldn’t bet on the strength of those layers.

    The brim provides enough platform footprint around the tabs to keep them upright, but obviously isn’t needed around the knob. Although you could wrap a modifier mesh around one or the other, trimming the brim off the knob with a precision scissors seemed more straightforward.

    Slobbering generous drops of of IPS #4 solvent adhesive into the slots and over the tabs softened the PETG enough that I could ram the tabs into place, using a big pliers to overcome their feeble resistance:

    Throttle knob - glued latches
    Throttle knob – glued latches

    With the plastic still dazed from the fumes, I force-fit the knob into the slot on the engine:

    Throttle knob - installed
    Throttle knob – installed

    The tabs eased back into position and seem to be holding the knob in place. Worst case: make a new knob, butter up the tabs with slow epoxy, ram knob into slot, then poke a screwdriver inside to realign the tabs against the slot edges.

    The solvent had a few cloudy days to evaporate before the next shredding session, whereupon the throttle once again worked exactly the way it should.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Tecumseh 36638 Throttle Knob
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU November 2015
    
    Layout = "Build";					// Build Show Tab Base
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    inch = 25.4;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    BaseSize = [40,14,3.0];							// overall base plate outside engine controller slot
    
    Knob = [18,BaseSize[1],17];
    
    TabSize = [7.5,1.6,6.0];						// ovarall length, minimum width, overall height
    TabSocket = [8.0,2.0,BaseSize[2] - 2*ThreadThick];				// recess in base plate for tab 
    
    TabOuterSpace = 30.0;							// end-to-end length over tabs - sets travel distance
    SlotWidth = 7.75;								// engine controller slot width
    SlotThick = 1.5;								// engine controller slot thickness
    
    TabShape = [
    	[0,0],
    	[BaseSize[2] + TabSize[2],0],
    	[BaseSize[2] + TabSize[2],ThreadWidth],
    	[BaseSize[2] + SlotThick,2*TabSize[1]],
    	[BaseSize[2] + SlotThick,TabSize[1]],
    	[0,TabSize[1]]
    ];
    
    CapBaseOpening = [11,7.5,15];			// opening in base plate, Z = clearance from controller plate
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    		h=Height,
    	$fn=Sides);
    }
    
    //----------------------
    // Pieces
    
    module Tab() {
    	
    	linear_extrude(height=TabSize[0]) {
    		polygon(points=TabShape);
    	}
    }
    
    
    module Base() {
    	
    	CornerRad = BaseSize[1]/8;
    
    	difference() {
    		union() {
    			linear_extrude(height=BaseSize[2])
    				hull()
    					for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1]) 
    						translate([i*(BaseSize[0]/2- CornerRad),j*(BaseSize[1]/2 - CornerRad)])
    							circle(r=CornerRad,$fn=4*4);
    			translate([Knob[0]/2,0,BaseSize[2] - Protrusion])
    				rotate([0,-90,0])
    					linear_extrude(height=Knob[0])
    						hull() {
    							translate([Knob[2] - Knob[1]/2,0])
    								circle(d=Knob[1],$fn=8*4);
    							translate([0,-Knob[1]/2,0])
    								square([Protrusion,Knob[1]]);
    						}
    		}
    		
    		translate([-CapBaseOpening[0]/2,-CapBaseOpening[1]/2,-Protrusion])
    			cube(CapBaseOpening + [0,0,-CapBaseOpening[1]/2 + Protrusion],center=false);
    			
    		translate([0,0,CapBaseOpening[2] - CapBaseOpening[1]/2])
    			rotate([0,90,0]) rotate(180/8)
    				cylinder(d=CapBaseOpening[1]/cos(180/8),h=CapBaseOpening[0],center=true,$fn=8);
    				
    		for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
    			translate([i*(TabOuterSpace/2 - TabSocket[0]/2),j*(SlotWidth/2 - TabSocket[1]/2),TabSocket[2]/2 - Protrusion])
    				cube(TabSocket + [0,0,Protrusion],center=true);
    	}
    }
    
    
    //----------------------
    // Build it
    
    if (Layout == "Base")
    	Base();
    	
    if (Layout == "Tab")
    	Tab();
    	
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    	Base();
    	
    		for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
    			translate([i*(TabOuterSpace/2 - TabSocket[0]/2),j*(SlotWidth/2 - TabSocket[1]/2),0])
    				translate([j < 0 ? TabSize[0]/2 : -TabSize[0]/2,j < 0 ? TabSize[1]/2 : -TabSize[1]/2,BaseSize[2] - 2*ThreadThick])
    					rotate([0,90,j < 0 ? -180 : 0])
    					Tab();
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    	Base();
    	
    	for (i=[0:5])					// build a few spares
    		translate([-7*TabSocket[1] + i*3*TabSocket[1],BaseSize[1],0])
    			rotate(90)
    				Tab();
    }
    

    The original doodle showing the OEM knob dimensions and some failed attempts at fancy features:

    Tecumseh Throttle Knob - doodles
    Tecumseh Throttle Knob – doodles
  • Label vs. Pictograph: Words Work

    Apparently, enough folks had enough trouble getting paper towels out of this dispenser to justify the emphatic English-only label:

    Towel dispenser - pictograph vs label
    Towel dispenser – pictograph vs label

    I’d lay money this is the second towel dispenser; the first got ripped apart while trying to extract the towels.

    At least the pictograph wasn’t the currently trendy black-on-black

  • What Free Shipping Means

    It really is free:

    China Post postage label
    China Post postage label

    Yeah, I’m sure that’s not what it means, but, still…

    I don’t understand how the total cost of a nontrivial something shipped halfway around the planet can be less than the price I’d pay to return it. I’m certain it involves massive subsidies and mysterious cash flows that never break the surface of the eBay “Buy It Now!” pond.

  • StirlingTEK NP-BX1 Batteries

    Because the first pair of Wasabi NP-BX1 batteries for the Sony HDR-AS30V camera faded to the point where they weren’t useful for a typical bike ride, I bought a pair of SterlingTEK (a.k.a. STK) NP-BX1 batteries that, like the Wasabi batteries, claimed to have a 1600 mA·h capacity. These are “second tier” batteries, not the cheap eBay crap I’ve already dismissed, and run a bit under $10 apiece.

    Here’s the picture from their product description:

    SterlingTEK - STK NP-BX1 battery - as advertised
    SterlingTEK – STK NP-BX1 battery – as advertised

    Here’s what arrived:

    STK NP-BX1 batteries
    STK NP-BX1 batteries

    Huh.

    That’s  a red flag, right there. It’s remarkably tempting to ship a good product for a while, then swap in much cheaper junk that can ride on the good reviews. Not saying that’s what happened, but it’s a possibility.

    Here’s how they performed:

    Sony NP-BX1 - Sony Wasabi STK - as received
    Sony NP-BX1 – Sony Wasabi STK – as received

    The red and blue curves show that the STK batteries produced less than 1000 mA·h in their first two charges, with the blue battery (I labeled it B) showing considerable variation that suggests it’ll suffer early failure. The green curve shows one of those Wasabi batteries and the purple curve is the OEM Sony battery, both in as-received condition.

    SterlingTEK will send two more batteries, in the belief that I received two sub-standard samples. We shall see…

  • Disabling Windows 10 Upgrade Nagware

    If you’re running Windows, then you have more experience than I do, but it seems Microsoft, for reasons best known to it, really really really wants you to upgrade to Windows 10, has been forcing nagware onto every Windows box in existence, and actively working to defeat efforts to remove said nagware.

    Our Token Windows Box, an off-lease Dell Optiplex 780 that arrived bearing Windows 7 Professional, will never, ever get upgraded, because it’s running a bunch of ancient Windows programs that interface with specific bits of hardware, none of which (most likely) will work with Windows 10. In any event, I see no reason to go through the hassle of “upgrading” an old machine, (maybe) resolving all the inevitable compatibility problems, and (maybe) having no way to roll back the upgrade, all for a few programs run, at most, monthly.

    Continually declining Windows 10 upgrade prompts isn’t my idea of a Good User Experience, but I’m also tired of manually inspecting and killing updates that re-re-re-install the nagware.

    The GWX Control Panel (“GWX” = “Get Windows 10” in MS-speak) seems to be the least awful way of dealing with this mess. It’s not offered by Microsoft, for obvious reasons, but is offered free-of-charge.

    Just do it…

  • Tiny Cylinder Test Object

    A discussion on the M2 forums prompted this test object:

    Tiny Cylinder - 0.9x9.0 mm
    Tiny Cylinder – 0.9×9.0 mm

    Sliced with Slic3r for PETG at 1 mm/s, with fans in full effect. It sits amid a 5 mm brim, inside a skirt that uses 15 mm of filament, giving it a Washington Monument aspect.

    The challenge was to print a 0.7x9.0 cylinder, which doesn’t work well with a 0.35 mm nozzle. Instead, I went with 0.9 mm diameter. The result measures 1.1 mm over all the obvious bumps, so it’s surprisingly close. The “nail head” at the bottom most likely comes from the hot end depressurizing as it suddenly transitions from 15 mm/s in the brim to 1 mm/s for the cylinder.

    Fairly obviously, you can’t print something like that at full speed (50 mm/s was claimed for a Rep 2 and I don’t believe that for an instant). Indeed, it’s such a pathological model that Slic3r’s minimum layer time and small perimeter settings had no effect; I had to manually set the extrusion speed to 1 mm/s in order to make it work. Plus adding that brim, because I knew it wouldn’t stand by itself.

    Other than that, printing it was no big deal.

    A picture from that M2 forum discussion suggests you can go crazy with this stuff:

    20 mm, 40 mm, 60 mm and 120 mm
    20 mm, 40 mm, 60 mm and 120 mm

    The OpenSCAD source code for my version:

    cylinder(d=0.9,h=9,$fn=8);
    

    There, now, that wasn’t so hard, was it?

  • Sony and Wasabi NP-BX1 Li-Ion Battery Life

    Using the Sony HDR-AS30V helmet camera more-or-less daily during the bicycling season chews up batteries as well as MicroSD cards:

    Sony NP-BX1 - OEM Wasabi - 2015-10-25
    Sony NP-BX1 – OEM Wasabi – 2015-10-25

    The dotted traces show the most recent status and the solid traces are from almost exactly one year ago:

    • Red = Genuine Sony
    • Blue = Wasabi Power: cell D, August 2014
    • Green = Wasabi Power: cell B, January 2014

    All the tests are at 500 mA, approximately half the camera’s load. Oddly, the numeric values along the mA·h axis work out pretty close to the actual runtime in hours:

    • Sony – 1:30
    • Wasabi D – 1:15
    • Wasabi B – 0:40

    Given that a typical bike ride takes an hour, the two year old Wasabi B battery’s 40 minute runtime isn’t useful. The Wasabi D battery is a bit over a year old and looks very much like the B battery did last year.

    The Wasabi batteries march through the camera and charger in order, so each one gets used about once a week. The Sony battery gets used once every half-dozen complete cycles, just so I have a standard “good” battery.

    The Sony and Wasabi B cells over the course of two years:

    Sony NP-BX1 - OEM Wasabi - 2015-10 2014-10 2014-01
    Sony NP-BX1 – OEM Wasabi – 2015-10 2014-10 2014-01

    Much to my surprise, the Wasabi batteries started out slightly better than the Sony OEM battery, at least as measured by the available voltage and energy. The camera runs from an internal switching power supply, so the area under the curve (basically equal to energy in W·h) above the cutoff voltage is all that matters.

    In round numbers, I can expect 100 cycles out of each battery before the run time drops below the ride time; at $10/battery, that’s a dime a ride. Any claims that the batteries can be recharged “1000 times!” may be true, but they’ll have a useless fraction of their original capacity by then.

    Time to buy a few more batteries…