The forecast of several pleasant days will have me in the garage wrenching on bikes, doing car maintenance, and finishing home chores.
Back next week …
Obligatory cat(erpillar) picture:

The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning
Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
If it used to work, it can work again

The forecast of several pleasant days will have me in the garage wrenching on bikes, doing car maintenance, and finishing home chores.
Back next week …
Obligatory cat(erpillar) picture:


A colony of Yellowjacket wasps moved into a gap somewhere inside our front door, which we noticed only after they set up a heavy traffic pattern over the front step. The nest is far enough up inside the door frame (or, shudder, the wall) to be immune to rattlecan insecticide spray and the wasps simply tiptoe across sticky-trap sheets laid on their entrance paths.
Taking a hint from the comments to our long-ago fruit fly adventure, I conjured a Wasp Blower from available materials:

That’s a hulking 12 V electronics case fan mounted on a cardboard bulkhead inside what’s basically a tunnel, with its power supply plugged into a widowmaker extension cord screwed into the light fixture next to the door.
The fan blows away from the door, with the general idea of killing wasps leaving the nest. Arriving wasps can walk home around the box, but departing wasps always take flight from the small crack under the door sill, whereupon they’re sucked into the fan, shattered by the blades, and blown out onto the step.
A Yellowjacket can make headway into a 1 m/s wind, but not for very long, which explains why most of them prefer walking home.
The carnage looks awful, so it seems to be working …

Having just replaced the shower faucet cartridge, the knob insert (probably from 1998, according to a label on the shower stall) could also use some improvement:

That oblong blue tint is water. The shattered sections formerly had small fingers holding the insert into the knob:

Pry the aluminum disk out of the insert and scan it:

There is no feature in the knob to capture the semicircular notch at the arrow tip, so the disk can rotate as it pleases. I think the arrow should point to the OFF label on the bezel when the water is turned off, but who knows?
Import it into Inkscape, whereupon it becomes obvious the printed legend is not centered on the disk, lay suitable construction lines & circles, then draw similar shapes:

I located the circles at the Inkscape page corner to put their center at the (0,0) origin with the arrow pointed along the X axis to simplify importing it into OpenSCAD.
The three useful graphic features go on separate layers so OpenSCAD can treat them as separate objects:

Build the overall insert shape in OpenSCAD:
difference() {
union() {
tube(Insert[LENGTH],id=Insert[ID],od=Insert[OD],anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP)
cyl(FaceThick,d=Insert[OD],anchor=TOP);
}
zrot(KnobAngle)
down(Protrusion)
cube([2*Insert[OD],IndexWidth,Insert[LENGTH] - FaceThick + Protrusion],anchor=BOTTOM);
}
The KnobAngle rotation comes from the angle of the features inside the knob that locate the insert, which are aligned horizontally here, but at about 30° when the knob is installed on the faucet :

The knob shined up surprisingly well for being three decades old; that photo is as-found.
Import the Inkscape graphics into OpenSCAD and align them an itsy above the top of the insert structure to prevent Z fighting without triggering the slicer into adding another layer:
up(Insert[LENGTH] - LabelThick + 0.01)
color("DarkSlateGray")
linear_extrude(LabelThick)
import(LabelFN,center=false,layer="Angle Indicator");
up(Insert[LENGTH] - LabelThick + 0.01)
color("Red")
linear_extrude(LabelThick)
import(LabelFN,center=false,layer="Hot Arc");
up(Insert[LENGTH] - LabelThick + 0.01)
color("Blue")
linear_extrude(LabelThick)
import(LabelFN,center=false,layer="Cold Arc");
Those three shapes must be handled separately, lest OpenSCAD combine them into one thing that PrusaSlicer won’t recognize as distinct shapes. There’s no need to subtract them from the main insert shape, but getting separate colors to come out right is definitely not straightforward.
Which looks like this, with cheerful colors that need not correspond to the printer filaments:

Normally I have a set of Build transformations to orient the thing for printing, but doing a simple rotation to put the top down on the platform also blows away the separate nature of the graphics.
I use the EIA color code sequence in PrusaSlicer so I can identify the filament number by eye:

A little while later:

The insert is a loose fit in the knob, held in place by good double-sided foam tape to the screw securing the knob. I decided to not bother with little fingers, because I loves me some simple removable adhesive action.
Yeah, you can buy an entire replacement knob for ten bucks, but where’s the fun in that?
The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:
| // Delta shower faucet knob insert | |
| // Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU | |
| // 2025-08-09 | |
| include <BOSL2/std.scad> | |
| /* [Hidden] */ | |
| HoleWindage = 0.2; | |
| Protrusion = 0.01; | |
| NumSides = 4*3*4; | |
| $fn=NumSides; | |
| ID = 0; | |
| OD = 1; | |
| LENGTH = 2; | |
| LabelFN = "Shower Fauce Knob Insert.svg"; | |
| LabelThick = 0.8; | |
| KnobAngle = 30; // horizontal to index features | |
| IndexWidth = 2.5; // slot to fit knob locating features | |
| Insert = [33.5,37.7,7.0]; // slides into knob | |
| FaceThick = 1.6; | |
| //———- | |
| // Construct it in the obvious orientation | |
| // Flip it in the slicer to preserve the artwork for separate filaments! | |
| difference() { | |
| union() { | |
| tube(Insert[LENGTH],id=Insert[ID],od=Insert[OD],anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP) | |
| cyl(FaceThick,d=Insert[OD],anchor=TOP); | |
| } | |
| zrot(KnobAngle) | |
| down(Protrusion) | |
| cube([2*Insert[OD],IndexWidth,Insert[LENGTH] – FaceThick + Protrusion],anchor=BOTTOM); | |
| } | |
| // Must be handled separately to produce separate objects for different filaments | |
| up(Insert[LENGTH] – LabelThick + 0.01) | |
| color("DarkSlateGray") | |
| linear_extrude(LabelThick) | |
| import(LabelFN,center=false,layer="Angle Indicator"); | |
| up(Insert[LENGTH] – LabelThick + 0.01) | |
| color("Red") | |
| linear_extrude(LabelThick) | |
| import(LabelFN,center=false,layer="Hot Arc"); | |
| up(Insert[LENGTH] – LabelThick + 0.01) | |
| color("Blue") | |
| linear_extrude(LabelThick) | |
| import(LabelFN,center=false,layer="Cold Arc"); | |

The startup ritual for a PolyDryer box’s humidity meter includes:
DO NOT EAT desiccant, to be cut open and …
However, the desiccant packets for the most recent pair of boxes (intended to simplify changing the desiccant in the collection feeding the MMU3 atop the Prusa MK4 3D printer) produced this:

The silica gel in the left cup looks OK-ish, maybe a little dark, but the fresh-from-the-bag beads in the right cup are crying out for regeneration after having adsorbed about all the water vapor they can.
If you were using that silica gel in its original DO NOT EAT bag, where you can’t see what it’s telling you, you might wonder why it wasn’t doing such a great job of drying the box + filament. The same could happen with a bag of non-indicating gel, along the lines of what I was using a decade ago.
So I dumped both in the Needs Rgeneration bottle and filled both meters with 25 g of fresh silica gel.

A long-lost repair finally made it to the top of the list:

The original string had long since rotted out, but everything else was in a plastic bag just waiting for this occasion.
The colorful cylinders are stacks of laser-cut 6 mm disks with a 2 mm hole, held to the wire & string with a tiny dot of high-viscosity cyanoacrylate glue at each end:

The disks came from acrylic leftovers:

The motion you can’t see makes the shiny bikes much more visible out there:

The string came from dismantled badge reels providing spiral springs for the auto-retracting spools in the PolyDryer boxes.
The weight ball had a 2 mm hole filled by a wood plug which I cleaned out piecemeal with a 1.5 mm drill bit in a pin vise; a short length of wood skewer holds the new string in place.
Because the upper arms support more weight, their disk stacks need fewer disks for the same leverage. The original mobile had (at most) four 6 mm chromed plastic balls at each level, so I started with eight 3 mm disks, adjusted the stack length as needed, glued them in place, then removed the surplus disks by crushing them with a Vise-Grip.
I should rip off the design (“© otagiri 1979”) to build another with recumbent bikes.

I salvaged a solar garden light from the Vassar Community Gardens midden heap and stripped it down:

The single IC is a YX805 “solar lawn light boost control chip” and the resistor-like thing is a 82 µH inductor setting a 13 mA input current.
Cleaning off some minor corrosion, charging the NiMH cell, and soldering an amber LED onto the pigtail wire brought it back to life.
It’s now perched on the porch railing where it catches some afternoon rays:

Maybe we can think of something better for it to do …

A small sewing notions cabinet, once my mother’s, now holds some of Mary’s supplies and, a few days ago, had one of its drawer pulls fall off. While preemptively tightening all the screws, I found one no longer held onto its pull:

They don’t make drawer pulls like that any more!
As I see things, it can be forgiven for losing its grip after nearly a century.
Thread the screw in as far as it will go and lay the pull flat on the bench vise anvil:

A few gentle whacks with a pin punch on top and bottom, plus a tap on each side, compressed the pull’s remaining threads around & into the screw:

Put it back in its drawer, snug the screw, and it’s all good.
That should suffice for at least the remainder of its first century …