Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Tag: Improvements
Making the world a better place, one piece at a time
The outer suckers on the basket in the corner of the shower didn’t line up with the tiles; either tile dimensions have changed in the last half-century or it’s a hard-metric basket. It didn’t look right when I installed it (now that is a grandiose term if I’ve ever misused one), so (when the thing fell off and landed with a clatter a few days ago) I drilled two additional holes as far away from the corner as I could, using a step drill to prevent the plastic from shattering, and it’s all good.
Shower basket – redrilled
Sometimes, they’re easy…
You’ll note that I heroically resisted the urge to fire the Thing-O-Matic to print some kind of weird-ass safety-orange interposer plate, just because I could.
A week or so after I got my HP 49GX calculator, I managed to drop a vernier caliper on it. Interior points downward, of course, putting a nice divot on the non-glare plastic over the LCD panel.
A week or so after I got my HP 50g calculator, I applied a screen protector sheet harvested from the lifetime supply I bought for my original Zire 71, back in the day.
HP 50g calculator screen protector
The fact that it’s an almost perfect fit and that the calculator sports a monochrome LCD with lower resolution is a sad commentary on the state of the calculator art.
Taking that picture in low-angle full sunlight makes the protector sheet look awful. In actual use, it’s nearly invisible. Haven’t dropped anything on it yet, either.
And, yes, I did cut it out around the HP logo button in the upper right corner.
It’s printed with 100% infill to produce a solid plastic plate.
In retrospect, I think it’d work better if I put the notch on the bottom side with a bit of support, so that the glass-smooth surface faced the Zire. Maybe next time?
The basic problem with the heater on the Heated Build Platform is that the SMD pads must both make electrical contact to the Molex-style connector and withstand mechanical stress from the dangling wires & cables as the platform moves along the X and Y axes. Rather than replace the entire heater, I attached pigtail leads to the PCB, anchored those leads to the wood platform under the heater, and routed the cables through the deck under the Y axis stage a bit differently.
However, attaching pigtail leads to the PCB poses a problem, because ordinary electronic hookup wire has thermoplastic insulation that melts or deforms at temperatures well under my usual 110 °C platform heat setting; shorting the heater wires would be a Very Bad Thing.
Some concerted rummaging in the Big Box o’ Multiconductor Cable turned up a hank of Teflon-insulated shielded two-wire cable that, as nearly as I can tell, has pure silver conductors and shield braid: the ends were tarnished like silver and there’s nary a trace of copper in the fresh cuts. It must be military surplus and, based on a vague recollection, was most likely cough salvaged by my father, who worked as an avionics tech at Olmstead AFB in the mid-60s. Ya gotta have stuff, right?
[Update: Alas, it’s not pure silver, as shown in the comments.]
The general idea is to scuff up the shiny PCB surface enough to anchor blobs of JB Industro Weld epoxy that surround brass tubes holding the cables. A pair of tubes secure each cable and provide strain relief; the cable is free to move, but not by very much. The thermistor cable has a long arch that will, I hope, keep the cable at the platform temperature and reduce its cooling effect on the thermistor:
Thermistor rewiring – heat cure
The alligator clips connect to a bench power supply that delivered 4 V @ 2 A = 8 W that heated the PCB to about 40 °C in the rather chilly Basement Laboratory and encouraged the epoxy to cure in less time than forever.
The final result looked like this, with Anderson Powerpoles now attached to the heater cable:
Rewired HBP
The 24 AWG conductors in the cable may seem scanty for 6 A of heater current, but, hey, they’re silver.
The three-pin connector on the end of the thermistor cable is a pure kludge, built from a 4-pin header to match the CD-ROM audio pinout on the new cable from the Extruder Controller. I kept the default pinout on this end to provide some protection against plugging it in backwards:
Kludged HBP thermistor connector
With all that in hand, I screwed the PCB to the aluminum sub-plate, bolted it to the plywood platform, and stuck the cables onto the platform with adhesive clamps:
Rewired HBP – front
Reaming out the hole between the red and black Powerpole shells provided just enough room for an M3 screw to anchor them to the HBP: they won’t flop around under acceleration.
The thermistor cable exits to the left, the rest to the right, and I’m unhappy with the overall routing. I added a small bumper (made from bent steel shim stock) to keep the thermistor cable out of the gap between the Y axis stage and the left side wall:
The platform is holding level within ±0.05 mm across build plates 1 and 2, somewhat better than before. On the other paw, the whole thing doesn’t have many hours on it…
With the heater off for repair, I added a strip of self-adhesive stainless steel tape to the top of the plywood platform, directly under the heater. This should reduce the wood temperature and maybe, just maybe, reduce the thermal expansion that shifts the X axis location of the Z-minimum platform height switch.
HBP heat shield
It’s stainless steel because that’s what was in the Tape Lookaside Buffer; a hunk of aluminum tape, even a pair of 2 inch / 50 mm strips would work just fine.
Not shown here is the M3 screw through the front-center hole (invisible under the tape) that will eventually anchor the new heater connector.
While I was rebuilding the HPB heater wiring, I drilled / countersunk / tapped a 4-40 hole in the middle of the aluminum sub-plate for a screw to secure the middle of the heater PCB:
HBP center attachement screw – top
Remember: this plate is firmly secured to the plywood build platform with three leveling screws over springs. Another aluminum plate, with Kapton tape as the build surface, sits on top, providing an absolutely flat build platform. If you’re using a single plate, you could backfill the hole with a dab of JB Industro Weld epoxy atop a lightly greased screw, then file the top flush with the plate.
A flat-head screw harvested from a chunk of electronic junk came from the Drawer o’ Short 4-40 Screws and fit perfectly:
HBP center attachment screw – bottom
Mirabile dictu, the screw was short enough that it didn’t require any trimming to stay below the top surface.
Securing the center of the PCB to the aluminum plate cuts the heater’s free span in half: the PCB originally had screws only along the left and right edges. Its thermal expansion visibly bowed it away from the plate and I hope this will reduce that problem. Of course, now the PCB’s expansion has nowhere to go and those thermal stresses will probably begin chewing up the mounting holes.
While I was at it, I removed the MBI “heat spreader” tape from the PCB. I’d been reluctant to do that, for fear of peeling the traces right off the board, but the surface was in fine shape. Whew!
More on the wiring and epoxy blobbed brass tube later…
Unlike that pattern, this OpenSCAD program produces an STL file that gets sliced in the usual manner, so that the end result shows exactly how the first layer of all other objects gets laid down.
Thread Thickness Test – solid model
It’s two threads wide and one thread thick: customize the OpenSCAD code to match the settings in Skeinforge (or Slic3r or whatever you’re using) to make it build properly.
The two tabs mark the +X and +Y directions. The bottom surface will be wonderfully shiny from the build plate, so the symmetry along the diagonal shouldn’t pose a problem.
Should the thickness vary more-or-less linearly along any of the bars, then you know which way to level the platform. If it varies non-uniformly, then either the build plate isn’t flat or the printer has other problems.
The actual width depends on the actual thickness, of course: a too-low nozzle will create a too-wide pattern regardless of the extrusion settings. The thickness should be uniform across the entire pattern, so you can still adjust the platform leveling screws.
If you’re using a Z-minimum platform height sensor, now’s the time to adjust the switch touch-off height to make the thread thickness come out right.
When the thread thickness comes out right, then the width should match the extrusion settings: the bottom layer will be exactly like all the others. That’s the ideal situation, anyway.