The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Electronics Workbench

Electrical & Electronic gadgets

  • Laser Cutter: OEM 24 V Power Supply Annoyances

    Laser Cutter: OEM 24 V Power Supply Annoyances

    In the process of replacing the laser cutter’s OEM 24 V 6 A power supply with a 15 A supply, one of the two screws holding it in place remained stuck in the underlying sheet metal plate:

    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy - installed
    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy – installed

    You can’t see either of the screws from that position, but they’re in the upper-left and lower-right corners. The offending screw is, of course, on the top, tucked between the top of the supply and the wire raceway. The bottom screw came out easily and I could maneuver the supply out of the way.

    Vigorous persuasion involving a bent-nose pliers and muttering got the screw out and revealed the problem:

    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy - stripped screw
    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy – stripped screw

    The reason why the screwdriver didn’t get much traction in the head also became obvious:

    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy - goobered screw head
    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy – goobered screw head

    Folks on the LightBurn forum seem astonished when they discover their fresh-from-the-factory has loose screws, missing screws, and occasionally the wrong screws.

    I always wondered where the switch pointed to by the conspicuous label might be:

    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy - voltage label
    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy – voltage label

    Unlike most supplies, it’s inside the case:

    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy - voltage switch
    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy – voltage switch

    After you spot it, you can also find it just below the tip of the arrow in the previous picture. I suppose putting it inside the case prevents it from being inadvertently flipped, but somebody had to dismantle All. The. Supplies. to flip that switch for the USA-ian market.

    The dataplate also became visible:

    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy - dataplate
    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy – dataplate

    You’ll recall the 5 V 2 A output was dedicated to the red-dot pointer drawing about 20 mA.

    In contrast, the 24 V 6 A output handled:

    • X axis stepper driver: 3.5 A peak
    • Y axis stepper driver: 3.5 A peak
    • U axis stepper driver: 5.1 A peak
    • KT332N controller &c: 1 or 2 A
    • Gantry LED strip: 0.25 A

    The stepper drivers are set to drop the motor current by half when they’re idle, which means their load would be only around 6 A. That’s as delivered to the motor windings, with the power supply’s average current being lower by roughly the ratio between the motor’s rated voltage and the power supply voltage. The instantaneous peak current, however, is the sum of all those currents.

    At some point I must measure all that, but for now I want to shoehorn a bigger supply in there to take care of the additional load of the rotary stepper driver, plus the existing platform lighting and improved electronics bay blower.

  • OMTech 60 W Laser: Revised Red-Dot Pointer Power

    OMTech 60 W Laser: Revised Red-Dot Pointer Power

    The OMTech 60 W laser has a 24 V + 5 V power supply for the stepper motors and, I had always assumed, the feeble LED strip light on the gantry:

    OMTech 60W laser - OEM lighting
    OMTech 60W laser – OEM lighting

    The stepper motor driver settings, plus a few amps for the controller and suchlike, added up to something over 12 A, far more than the 24 V supply’s 6 A spec should produce. When I added the COB strip lights around the platform, I dropped a 24 V wall wart into the electronics bay to avoid abusing that poor supply:

    OMTech 60W laser - COB LED strips
    OMTech 60W laser – COB LED strips

    For reasons to be described later, it’s now time to upgrade that 24 V power supply to a 15 A supply that’s been on the shelf for far too long. However, it does not have a 5 V output, so it’s also time to figure out how much 5 V power the laser really needs.

    A quick measurement suggested the 5 V output delivered 20 mA to something. After convincing myself the multimeter was working and that the gantry LED strip was still lit, I finally tracked the wire pair to the red-dot pointer:

    OMTech red dot pointer - polarizing filter installed
    OMTech red dot pointer – polarizing filter installed

    Yeah, a whole dual-output power supply for one red-dot laser module.

    Conveniently, the KT332N controller has several 5 V outputs and the LIMIT terminal block even has a GND terminal on the other end:

    KT332N Limit Terminals - OEM
    KT332N Limit Terminals – OEM

    Prying off the hot melt glue, extracting the red-dot pointer wiring from the raceway, crimping ferrules on a couple of jumpers, and deploying a pair of Wago connectors:

    KT332N Limit Terminals - red dot wiring
    KT332N Limit Terminals – red dot wiring

    I am still not accustomed to the color code:

    • Black = signal
    • Brown = power
    • Blue = GND

    But it’s like that and that’s the way it is.

    The red dot lit right up, the gantry LED strip obviously uses 24 V power, and I must shoehorn a slightly larger 24 V supply into the space currently occupied by the old supply.

  • LED Failures Out On The Road

    LED Failures Out On The Road

    Perhaps there’s something to redundancy after all:

    Truck - failing LED brake lights
    Truck – failing LED brake lights

    The four light fixtures serve as both tail lights and brake lights. This was at an intersection, we were both stopped for the traffic signal, and all those LEDs should have been glowing brightly.

    AFAICT, each light fixture has 20 LEDs with a third to a half either dead or dying.

    I wonder if those are replacement fixtures, installed on the promise they’d last forever, when the original incandescent bulbs burned out …

  • AC Power / Energy Meter

    AC Power / Energy Meter

    A surprisingly competent AC power-line voltage / current / energy / power meter fits neatly into a mud ring atop a 4×4 inch square electrical box:

    AC Power Meter - assembled
    AC Power Meter – assembled

    The inside view shows the wiring, such as it is:

    AC Power Meter - interior
    AC Power Meter – interior

    The square black block is the split-core current transformer around the hot line wire, which sticks up just enough in any orientation to require an extension ring, thus a second trip to the Big Box store.

    The mud ring has two tabs with threaded screw holes for the device (switch / GFCI / whatever): grab those with a Vise-Grip, flex until they break off, then file down the stub.

    Generous globs of hot-melt glue secure the meter in the mud ring. I added a strip of duct tape under the connections in the hope it might avert disaster should either of the AC wires come loose, but my real hope is in the safety ground to the metal box.

    The line cord comes from the Box o’ IEC cords, minus its IEC connector, plus the bright yellow USA-ian connector.

    Yes, the three metal box pieces and the Leviton connector cost far more than the meter.

    Not to code, but good enough for my purposes.

  • Tour Easy: Garage Door Remote Mount

    Tour Easy: Garage Door Remote Mount

    It turns out that keeping the garage door remote clipped to the starboard underseat pack on my Tour Easy attenuated its RF enough that even the directed receiver antenna couldn’t grab enough signal until I rolled onto the end of the driveway.

    While contemplating what’s involved in making a 3D model of the remote’s curved backside, I realized the bike already had a perfect spot:

    Tour Easy Zzipper Fairing - block mount
    Tour Easy Zzipper Fairing – block mount

    A few strips of good outdoor-rated foam tape later:

    Tour Easy - garage door opener mount
    Tour Easy – garage door opener mount

    Believe it or not, the camera is looking through the year-old and unwashed fairing on my bike.

    Stipulated: aligning the PCB antenna flat against a small aluminum plate atop a bunch of aluminum bars isn’t perfect. However, enough RF wriggles out to trigger our opener from four houses down the hill, giving it plenty of time to haul the door out of my way.

    That was trivial …

  • Amazon Basics Alkaline AA Cell Failures

    Amazon Basics Alkaline AA Cell Failures

    A few weeks ago, the house seemed unusually warm when I crawled out of bed. Checking the heat pump thermostat woke me right up:

    Heat pump - battery critical
    Heat pump – battery critical

    This, as they say, is not a nominal outcome.

    A pair of AA alkaline cells powers the thermostat and, due to its wireless communication link to the heat pump’s air handler in the attic, it chews through two pairs a year. As you’d expect, it displays a “Battery Low” message for at least few days at the end of their lifetime, which was not the case for this failure.

    After replacing the cells, the thermostat reported that, yes indeed, the house was much warmer than usual:

    Heat pump - high temperature
    Heat pump – high temperature

    A temperature monitor showed the heat had jammed on in the deep of the night:

    Heat pump - runaway temperature
    Heat pump – runaway temperature

    The heat pump exhaust temperature showed a similar event:

    Heat pump - exhaust temperature
    Heat pump – exhaust temperature

    One of the AA cells showed about 1.3 V, but the other was around 0.25 V, suggesting an abrupt failure, rather than the normal gradual voltage decrease with plenty of time to replace the cells.

    It’s reasonable to jam the heat on when the thermostat isn’t communicating, rather than let the house gradually freeze, but it did come as a surprise. I don’t know how the heat pump reacts to a battery failure during the cooling season; not refrigerating the house would be perfectly fine in most circumstances.

    The Amazon Basics AA cells I’ve been using have worked as well as the Name Brand ones, so I was willing to write one off as happenstance.

    However, during the recent Daylight Saving Time dance, I discovered the clock in Mary’s Long Arm Sewing Room had stopped, with an Amazon Basics AA alkaline cell from the same lot inside:

    Failed clock AA cellFailed clock AA cell
    Failed clock AA cell

    The date shows I’d replaced it in March, with the previous cell lasting an amazing 3-½ years. This one was completely dead, reading barely 0.1 V, after seven months. Mary hasn’t had a quilting project at the long-arm stage in recent months, so the clock may have been stopped for quite a while.

    Perhaps something has gone badly wrong with Amazon’s battery supplier QC.

    As the saying goes: Once is happenstance. Twice is coincidence. Three times is enemy action.

  • Belkin F6C1500 UPS Re-batterying

    Belkin F6C1500 UPS Re-batterying

    After about four years, the two well-aged 12 V 9 A·hr batteries in the Belkin F6C1500 UPS gave up after a few minutes without line power, whereupon I swapped the UPS out for a new one.

    The old batteries don’t have much life left in them (the date in the title should be 2021):

    SigmasTek 12V SLA -2025-09-30
    SigmasTek 12V SLA -2025-09-30

    That’s with a 1 A load, rather than the 2 A I used earlier, as they’ll never be used for heavy loads again.

    The new 7 A·hr batteries can power a 300 W incandescent bulb for 10 minutes before sounding the Low Battery alert, then another three minutes before shutting down. That’s about 12 A at 24 V, call it 2.6 A·hr from grossly overstressed batteries.