The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Electronics Workbench

Electrical & Electronic gadgets

  • Slitting Brass Tubing

    Casting Wood's Metal in brass tube
    Casting Wood's Metal in brass tube

    I needed a brass tube with a lengthwise slit to serve as an electrostatic shield around a ferrite bar antenna. There are many wrong ways to do this, all of which produce terrible results, pose a serious risk of personal injury, or both. I say that with some confidence, having tried some of them over the years.

    Here’s one right way: fill the tube with Wood’s Metal, thus turning it into a solid rod, then cut the slit with a slitting saw.

    Wood’s Metal is a moderately toxic alloy that melts in hot water, which turns casting into a simple workbench operation. You might not want to cast it in the kitchen, but that’s your call. Clean up the scraps, wash the counter even though you used newspaper, wash your hands, and don’t suck your thumb.

    As shown, I just poured the molten metal into the brass tube atop a steel block, broke off whatever seeped out, and remelted the scraps. Turns out I had just barely enough for the job.

    Slitting brass tubing - overview
    Slitting brass tubing – overview

    My buddy Eks gave me a stack of slitting saws a while ago and I modified a standard Sherline holder to fit them. Turns out there’s just barely enough room for everything within the mill’s working envelope; the saws are a bit over 3 inches in diameter.

    So I cut the back of the tubing, making the pictures somewhat disorienting.

    The tubing fit neatly into an old V-block (evidently homebrewed by a better machinist than I), held down by ordinary Sherline clamps on perilously long studs screwed into the tooling plate. The saw had just enough reach to clear the rather broad V-block’s shoulder.

    The tubing is 0.630 OD with a 15-mil wall and the saw blade is pretty nearly 32 mils thick. I touched off Z=0.331 (630/2 + 32/2) with the blade atop the tubing, then jogged away to Y=+1 and drove down to Z=0 to cut exactly through the middle of the tube.

    Slit 0.015 inch deep
    Slit 0.015 inch deep

    The V-block is aligned with the front of the table, but I did a bit of nudging to persuade it into final alignment. Of course, the saw wasn’t quite centered on the holder, so a blade or three tinged on the tubing when I did a Y=0 trial pass at low RPM.

    For lack of anything smarter, I cut at 500 RPM and fed at 5 inch/min. That’s painfully slow, but correspondingly boring… remember, in machine shop work, boring is good.

    I did five passes: one trial at Y=0, three cuts at 5-mil steps, and a cleanup cut. The picture shows the 15-mil pass left a very thin web at the far end. A final 2-mil cut removed that web, leaving only a few burrs. You could do it in one pass, but I wanted to minimize the depth-of-cut into the Wood’s Metal.

    Unclamp, discover that the cast metal rod slides right out, touch up the edges with a file, and it’s all good. A lovely slit, perfectly aligned, without bent metal or bloodshed.

    As a bonus, I get a nice Wood’s Metal ingot out of the operation. The line along the rod is just barely perceptible with a fingernail; it’s more of a polished line than an actual cut.

    Slit tube with Wood's Metal ingot
    Slit tube with Wood's Metal ingot

    Turns out the shield works a bit too well: it cuts out the WWVB signal, too. I think the tubing is too close a fit to the ferrite rod and detunes the winding. More experimentation is in order…

  • Hammered Solder Ribbons

    I needed more solder ribbon for resistance soldering, so I figured I should make a batch of the stuff. Put a length of silver solder between folded paper, hammered it on the vise anvil with a polished brass hammer, and it worked fine.

    Flushed with success, I did the same with some ordinary rosin-core lead solder for the next time I must solder a shield or some such.

    Solder Ribbons
    Solder Ribbons

    Just snip off the appropriate length and fire up the iron…

  • Alpha-Geek Clock: Ready for the Mass Market

    Packaged Alpha-Geek Clock
    Packaged Alpha-Geek Clock

    OK, I had to do it. The Alpha-Geek Clock WWVB receiver circuitry, such as it is, now resides in a nice Pactec enclosure, with a bright red LED.

    All time, all the time, and nothing but the time.

    I should put it up on etsy.com for fifty bucks…

  • Digital Concepts AAA NiMH Cells: Craptastic!

    The AAA cells I mentioned there bubbled to the top of the heap on my desk again, so I charged them, let them sit around for a few days to stabilize, then ran a discharge test.

    The top (black) trace is all four AAA cells in series; the two steps correspond to the two weakest cells failing. The red trace is the surviving two cells. The green trace is the strongest cell, which supplied current during all three traces.

    They’re nominally 900 mAh, but the results are pretty much what you’d expect.

    No-name AAA NiMH - Sequential Discharge
    No-name AAA NiMH – Sequential Discharge

    The most durable cell, the last one to fail with the green trace, had a capacity of a bit over 500 mAh: slightly over half the rating. The weakest cell (the first step on the black trace) failed after a mere 250 mAh.

    Junk. Pure junk. I’ll give ’em another charge just to see what happens, but don’t hold your breath anticipating a resurrection.

  • 7400-Family IC Stash

    Over the years I’ve accumulated a bunch of obsolete ICs; all I can say is they weren’t obsolete at the time. Sometimes I need one, so here’s a list of the jelly-bean collection where I can find & update it as parts emerge from their hidey-holes in the Heap.

    All hulking through-hole

    • 138 1-to-8 demux
    • 221 monstable (!)
    • 139 1-to-4 decoder
    • 156 2-to-4 dual demux / decoder
    • F521 8-bit comparator
    • 373 8-bit latch (transparent)
    • 374 8-bit latch (clocked)
    • 74 dual D flipflop
    • 244 8-bit buffer
    • 393 dual 4-bit counter (ripple)
    • AS869 8-bit up/down counter
    • 191 4-bit up/down counter
    • 157 quad 2-to-1 mux
    • 164 8-bit parallel output shift register
    • 245 8-bit bus transceiver
    • 151 8-in multiplexer

    Memo to Self: What horror lurks in the box labeled “Old ICs”?

  • IBM Thinkpad 560Z CMOS Battery Connector Polarity

    Thinkpad 560Z Lithium Cell Polarity
    Thinkpad 560Z Lithium Cell Polarity

    Two years ago I converted a $20 Thinkpad 560Z (they’re more expensive now, oddly enough) into a digital picture frame for Mary’s parents, a process documented in two of my late, lamented DDJ columns there and there. It runs a stripped-down Slackware installation that boots directly into a picture viewer, so when you turn it on you get pictures and nothing else. Well, after you get a few screens of the usual white-on-black Linux boot messages, which I think adds a certain geeky charm to a digital picture frame.

    Anyhow, the thing failed just before Thanksgiving with BIOS error messages 161 and 163: its way of telling you that the lithium cell powering the clock chip has gone dead. I hadn’t replaced that cell when I did the conversion and it lasted just about exactly a decade; it was evidently the right size for the job.

    Not being constrained by the confines of the original laptop case, I replaced the coin cell with a grossly oversized CR123A cylindrical lithium cell (having a bunch of them on the shelf and some holders for another project). The connector is in an awkward location, below the IDE socket’s flex-PCB cable, and both wires popped out of the connector shell when I pulled on them. So it goes.

    The top picture shows the proper polarity, as seen inside another 560Z’s lithium cell compartment: red-for-positive on the right, with the circuit board positioned component side down (toward the keyboard). Our daughter did the soldering; she’s since learned about heatshrink tubing and cold joints; it’s good enough.

    This picture shows the CR123A all wired up and ready to go in the picture frame. The circuit board here is component side up, so the connector wires go the other way. Notice the small trace from the red-side pin on the circuit board; that’s your clue that it’s the positive battery connection. Measure the voltage at the backside of the connector to be sure you have those miniature pins properly seated in the connector, too.

    CR123A in 560Z Picture Frame
    CR123A in 560Z Picture Frame

    FWIW, I bought three 560Zs while they were cheap; our young lady installed Puppy Linux on the one in the top picture (hence her soldering) and seems reasonably content. They’re old & slow & cramped by contemporary standards, but just fine for most of the things you’d probably buy a fancy new netbook for.

    Hmmm…

  • Arduino: Slave Select Pin MUST Be An Output in Master Mode

    I’m using hardware-assisted SPI for a project, copied in my own boilerplate code, assigned the bits, and… it didn’t work.

    Jammed hard with mysterious symptoms. Looked like a stack crash, looked like the hardware was broken, looked like a lot of things.

    The final hint, found by stuffing Serial.print() statements in all the usual spots, was that the SPCR register mysteriously changed from the desired 0x71 to 0x61, without any of my code doing the writing.

    Turns out that the Fine Manual has this to say:

    Bit 4 – MSTR: Master/Slave Select

    [snippage] If -SS is configured as an input and is driven low while MSTR is set, MSTR will be cleared, and SPIF in SPSR will become set. The user will then have to set MSTR to re-enable SPI Master mode.

    I planned to use Arduino Pin 10 (PWM10) as the signal to latch the output shift registers, but because I’m developing the code on an Arduino Pro before making the circuit board, I hadn’t gotten around to initializing that pin… which, as you might expect, is also the -SS pin.

    With the pin not set up as an output, it defaults to an input. My cut-n-paste code blipped the pin high and left it low to simulate latching the ‘595 shift registers… but, for input pins, writing a value simulates what would happen when an external signal drives the pin.

    Soooo, I had inadvertently set -SS low, which turned off Master mode, which meant the hardware wasn’t going to send the next byte, which means SPIF wasn’t going to automatically go high when I dropped a byte in SPDR. The code, of course, waited until SPIF was clear before loading SPDR, then hung waiting for it to go high again.

    As always, stupid errors are easy to fix after figuring things out, but ouch did it take a while…

    Moral of the story: always initialize all the I/O pins! (But you knew that, right?)